1D MK111 & !DS MK111 RECALL LINK

mine picked up at 11am thursday ....arrived back today at lunchtime and thats for the af fix and I had a new sub-mirror and stopper to fix the tracking problem not had a chance to try it yet ?
well happy with the service *** and all costs listed as goodwill :woot:
 
I am uploading 296 images, shot today with my "fixed" 1D3 to an online album. All were shot in AI Servo mode, whether the subject was static or moving. There is a mixture of centre point, inner point, outer point and ring of fire. Most single point shots are with assist points enabled.

The album consists of a mixture of static birds, birds in flight, and dogs trotting and running full tilt across and towards the camera.

Everything was shot raw and processed in DPP with sharpening = 2. I did a centre crop at 2880x??? and resized that on output to 50%. The album will dynamically resize pictures to fit your monitor but there is a magnify button at the top right of each picture which should allow you to zoom in. I've deleted the real duffers that were clearly user error but otherwise this is everything shot today, warts and all. Some shots are stunning (in terms of sharpness), especially when you consider the 100-400 used wide open at 400mm and the minimal post processing. Some, for no reason I can fathom, have failed to make the grade. Anyway, here they are. Enjoy....

http://picasaweb.google.com/EezyTiger/1D3AIServoPostFixTesting?authkey=Gv1sRgCInakcCrmeuedg#

IQ does degrade if the website has to resize the image. On a 1920x1200 display it is possible to view without resizing. Just close the info panel over on the right and/or close your favourites if you have them open on the left.
 
George said:
Pete, are you shooting in single shot af or servo? ..duck looks fairly contented and not moving too much! My understanding was that this fix is really for AI servo improvement?

George
Click to expand...

This is in AI servo and the grebe was moving towards me.

These were to show how little work the images now need straight out of the camera in raw.
 
Anorakus said:
Would you mind sharing? :)

A.
Click to expand...

Import from LR2 as 16 bit TIFF
1. adjust Shadow (38%) and Highlight (41%)
2. adjust saturation (+8%)
3. apply noise filter (I use Neat image, standard profile)
4 apply unsharp mask (Amount 150%, Radius 1, Threshold 0)
5. resize to 800 longest side
6. save for web

I have an action recorded that does this in a second....
 
tdodd said:
I am uploading 296 images, shot today with my "fixed" 1D3 to an online album. All were shot in AI Servo mode, whether the subject was static or moving. There is a mixture of centre point, inner point, outer point and ring of fire. Most single point shots are with assist points enabled.

The album consists of a mixture of static birds, birds in flight, and dogs trotting and running full tilt across and towards the camera.

Everything was shot raw and processed in DPP with sharpening = 2. I did a centre crop at 2880x??? and resized that on output to 50%. The album will dynamically resize pictures to fit your monitor but there is a magnify button at the top right of each picture which should allow you to zoom in. I've deleted the real duffers that were clearly user error but otherwise this is everything shot today, warts and all. Some shots are stunning (in terms of sharpness), especially when you consider the 100-400 used wide open at 400mm and the minimal post processing. Some, for no reason I can fathom, have failed to make the grade. Anyway, here they are. Enjoy....

http://picasaweb.google.com/EezyTiger/1D3AIServoPostFixTesting?authkey=Gv1sRgCInakcCrmeuedg#

IQ does degrade if the website has to resize the image. On a 1920x1200 display it is possible to view without resizing. Just close the info panel over on the right and/or close your favourites if you have them open on the left.
Click to expand...

Tim
Are you not pleased with the results. And at the 400mm end which is known to be soft (well mine definitely is).....
 
Pete W said:
Tim
Are you not pleased with the results. And at the 400mm end which is known to be soft (well mine definitely is).....
Click to expand...

I think some of the shooting I have done today has been quite demanding, in terms of cluttered backgrounds and it wasn't always easy to track the target accurately. All things told I don't think the camera did a bad job, but there are the odd puzzling failures, which might yet be down to user error. An example is the 18 shot sequence starting with this image....

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/EezyT...hkey=Gv1sRgCInakcCrmeuedg#5314219210216061138

It was shot with ROF, starting with a clear subject slap bang in the middle of the ring, with a clear background. Out of the first 7 shots only the second one really seems even close to sharp. The sequence then sorts itself out from frame 8 onwards. Frame 11 is a bit off and frame 13 is very poor. The rest are good. There seems to be no good reason for the focus failures in this sequence, especially against a clean sky as the background.

FWIW, all my EF lenses - 3 L zooms and 3 primes - front focus quite a bit on this supposedly perfectly calibrated body. Typically the adjustment needed is +10. Statistically that sounds like the camera AF is not zeroed correctly. FWIW my 16-35/2.8LII needs +10. On my 50D it needs +0. My 100-400 needs +10. My 70-200/2.8LIS needs +8 etc. etc.. On the 50D, where an adjustment is needed, it is (nearly?) always to correct front focusing as well. Is there a reason for Canon to engineer front focusing into its bodies/lenses on purpose or is my gear a statistical anomoly?
 
tdodd said:
I think some of the shooting I have done today has been quite demanding, in terms of cluttered backgrounds and it wasn't always easy to track the target accurately. All things told I don't think the camera did a bad job, but there are the odd puzzling failures, which might yet be down to user error. An example is the 18 shot sequence starting with this image....

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/EezyT...hkey=Gv1sRgCInakcCrmeuedg#5314219210216061138

It was shot with ROF, starting with a clear subject slap bang in the middle of the ring, with a clear background. Out of the first 7 shots only the second one really seems even close to sharp. The sequence then sorts itself out from frame 8 onwards. Frame 11 is a bit off and frame 13 is very poor. The rest are good. There seems to be no good reason for the focus failures in this sequence, especially against a clean sky as the background.

FWIW, all my EF lenses - 3 L zooms and 3 primes - front focus quite a bit on this supposedly perfectly calibrated body. Typically the adjustment needed is +10. Statistically that sounds like the camera AF is not zeroed correctly. FWIW my 16-35/2.8LII needs +10. On my 50D it needs +0. My 100-400 needs +10. My 70-200/2.8LIS needs +8 etc. etc.. On the 50D, where an adjustment is needed, it is (nearly?) always to correct front focusing as well. Is there a reason for Canon to engineer front focusing into its bodies/lenses on purpose or is my gear a statistical anomoly?
Click to expand...

Tim
Mine seems OK. However when I got it back I did clear ALL setting and then re applied each.. Not sure that would make any difference though..... Does seem strange that you require micro adjustment of +10 to all lenses.....
When shooting BIF I always use one point with surrounding assist points enabled... I never got on that well with ROF for BIF's. Also did you check CFN III-2 mine was on centre when I got it back, I usually have it set to -1
 
Same as you - cleared all lens settings (and custom functions) and then started calibration from scratch. I also adjusted CFn III-2 to -1 before shooting this lot.

My lenses aren't all at +10 but three or four out of six are. The others are something like +5 and +8 (I think). Of course, there is no way to check without mounting each lens individually, which I don't plan on doing for the sake of it :)

I don't use ROF much but I was experimenting today simply to ensure I gave several focus points a workout rather than just the central cluster. There is one sequence where I deliberately held the camera fairly steady and let a crow fly right through the ROF, having targetted with the centre point first. That seemed to work pretty well, but the distance was large so I guess the DOF was generous.
 
tdodd said:
Same as you - cleared all lens settings (and custom functions) and then started calibration from scratch. I also adjusted CFn III-2 to -1 before shooting this lot.

My lenses aren't all at +10 but three or four out of six are. The others are something like +5 and +8 (I think). Of course, there is no way to check without mounting each lens individually, which I don't plan on doing for the sake of it :)

I don't use ROF much but I was experimenting today simply to ensure I gave several focus points a workout rather than just the central cluster. There is one sequence where I deliberately held the camera fairly steady and let a crow fly right through the ROF, having targetted with the centre point first. That seemed to work pretty well, but the distance was large so I guess the DOF was generous.
Click to expand...
Not got mine back yet but all my lenses were at +10.
 
still not even got a notification for pick up :(
 
dod said:
still not even got a notification for pick up :(
Click to expand...


It was probably at least two or maybe three working days before I got a call. And I was fairly early on, I'd guess they're getting a bit busier now.

Basically, I registered, got a call from Canon a couple of days later re collection. They collected on specified date. I waited a couple of days, got a text message saying it had been completed, got another text message (same day) saying it had been despatched and giving me a ups tracking number. Then it was delivered a day or so later. I then got an invoice (zero cost) from Canon which gave a little more detail.

I don't know if that helps, but that's what happened with mine.

cheers
Bill
 
quick questions regarding mkIII's

If i was to buy a new mkIII in 6-12 months from a well known supplier (Jessops, Jacobs, Calumet, WE) do you think that they would have had the "fix" done to them that they are doing to yours now?

Mike
 
OK - mine's back and I'm busy rigging up a focus test thingy to re-calibrate my 300 2.8 in the morning.

The blurb with the camera noted that it will now work according to the specifications. Super.

I wont bore you with the focus test calibration but will post up shots from England v Scotland on Saturday which will be its first major test after the update/fix.
 
My 1dmk3 was collected from deepest darkest central Scotland on Monday, received a text from Canon on Tuesday to say that the repair had been done and the camera was back with me before 10am this morning (Wednesday).

Fantastic service.

Arron
 
I can't knock Canon service at all right now. I got mine back within a week and it was definitely better in AI servo than before. I've checked all my lenses and all are spot on for focus except my 35L which is consistently front focusing. I emailed Lauren at Canon about this today and even though the lens is well out of warranty she emailed me a UPS label to send both body and lens in so that they can have a look at it.

That's the kind of service that you always hope you're going to get but very rarely do.

And no... I'm not a rabid Canon fan boy, if anything I tend to be rather cynical about any company, and I don't mind complaining when necessary. But I do believe that if you do get good service it's only right and proper to say so.

cheers
Bill
 
MJ Stebbings said:
quick questions regarding mkIII's

If i was to buy a new mkIII in 6-12 months from a well known supplier (Jessops, Jacobs, Calumet, WE) do you think that they would have had the "fix" done to them that they are doing to yours now?

Mike
Click to expand...

Anyone any ideas or guesses :shrug:
 
MJ Stebbings said:
Anyone any ideas or guesses :shrug:
Click to expand...

I'd guess it's bound to be updated, but it should have white dots or some other identifying marks in the battery compartment. I suspect we'll find out more in the days ahead.
 
It would depend how old their stock is/was, I would say

mkIV will be out in 6-12 months also;)
 
Big Ant said:
It would depend how old their stock is/was, I would say
Click to expand...

Surely from a major supplier they would have shifted old stock in 12 months though?
I hope we hear more about this soon
 
I'm impressed, mkIII was picked up at 1300 yesterday(weds) and today at 1400 I get a text telling me it's ready:D
 
Canon have finally been in contact (7 days) and mine's being collected on the 27th March.
 
i'm getting annoyed with Canon now, i submitted the form on Monday and still no contact, i've phoned htem up to chase it and they've said ill just have to wait.....no good at all.
 
To be fair Tom that's only 4 working days and they do quote up to 7. I suspect they've got quite a few to check!
 
Quick update from me. I did my lens calibration for my 300 2.8 on its own and with a 1.4x extender.

Something has definitely been changed as the calibration went from +10 to +16 both with the lens on its own and with the extender. The 300 2.8 is highly demanding with a razor thin depth of field so you can really see the micro adjustment making a difference. This is also why a lot of sports photographers will moan if the focus is even slightly off as it's far more noticeable with a 300 or 400 2.8 lens than with a shorter/wider lens with a smaller max aperture.

Focus seemed more "solid". Weird to describe, but previously the lens would "twitch" a bit, but now just locks instantly and stays there. Needless to say the focus speed of the long Canon L primes is just awesome.

Big test at Twickenham tomorrow - will keep you posted...
 
Tobers said:
Quick update from me. I did my lens calibration for my 300 2.8 on its own and with a 1.4x extender.

Something has definitely been changed as the calibration went from +10 to +16 both with the lens on its own and with the extender. The 300 2.8 is highly demanding with a razor thin depth of field so you can really see the micro adjustment making a difference. This is also why a lot of sports photographers will moan if the focus is even slightly off as it's far more noticeable with a 300 or 400 2.8 lens than with a shorter/wider lens with a smaller max aperture.

Focus seemed more "solid". Weird to describe, but previously the lens would "twitch" a bit, but now just locks instantly and stays there. Needless to say the focus speed of the long Canon L primes is just awesome.

Big test at Twickenham tomorrow - will keep you posted...
Click to expand...

Please get some great shots of all the Scottish tries.......:LOL::LOL::LOL:

George
 
Tobers said:
Quick update from me. I did my lens calibration for my 300 2.8 on its own and with a 1.4x extender.

Something has definitely been changed as the calibration went from +10 to +16 both with the lens on its own and with the extender.
Click to expand...

Interesting that I now need +5 and you need +6....a difference of only +1 is too close to call but hints that something has move forwards body relative to lens.

Bob
 
Canon Bob said:
Interesting that I now need +5 and you need +6....a difference of only +1 is too close to call but hints that something has move forwards body relative to lens.

Bob
Click to expand...

I'm a bit surprised that they haven't zeroed the bodies, I have returned lenses for calibration and they have done this, so much that most of my lenses don't need any micro adjustment. They set up my 40D to my 500mm, which had previously been set up with the 1Ds 3 and they specifically told me that they were setting them all up to zero micro adjustment so that the 40 would be spot on.
I suppose if your lenses hadn't been back ever to Canon and had been zeroed then they could be out, however this should show on any body without the adjustment facility.
 
My 300/2.8 is 0 on the 5D2 and 50D but now +5 on the 1D3 :shrug:

Bob
 
Ive never done the calibration, mine are all 0, mind you i havent really tested it yet since i got it back :)

Hmmm in fact ive just read this on another forum, and if this is the recommended way of doing it and you should have the target at leadt 50 times the focal length of the lens away, 50 times 600mm is 30m away ?

* Mount the camera on a good tripod.
* Set up a target for the camera to focus on. The reference target should have sufficient contrast for the AF system to detect. It should be flat and parallel to the camera's focal plane, and centred.
* Lighting should be bright / even.
* Camera-to-subject distance should be no less than 50 times the focal length of the lens. For a 50mm lens, that would be at least 2.5 meters.
* Set the lens for AF and the camera for One-Shot AF, and manually select the centre focusing point.
* Shoot at the maximum aperture of the lens via manual mode or aperture-priority. Adjust exposure level to get an accurate exposure. Use low ISO setting.
* If the lens has an image stabilizer, turn it off.
* Use a remote switch or the camera's self-timer to fire the shutter. Use mirror lock up as well.
* Take three sets of images at microadjustment settings of -5, 0 and +5, i.e, three consecutive images at -5, three consecutive images at 0, and three consecutive images at +5.
* Look at the images on your screen at 100% magnification.
* Take additional sets of test images at different microadjustment settings if necessary until the sharpest image is achieved.
* Register the corresponding microadjustment settings in the camera.
Click to expand...
 
Canon Bob said:
My 300/2.8 is 0 on the 5D2 and 50D but now +5 on the 1D3 :shrug:

Bob
Click to expand...
A mate of mine had to put +5 in for his 300f2.8Lis so he sent his lens in for calibration and now its bang on at 0.All my lenses were set at +10 to get the best out of them but they were spot on with my 1dsmk2 and 40d so im hoping I can leave it alone when I get it back.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top