Calling all Sony Alpha users! (Part 3)

Status
Not open for further replies.
fabs said:
Is the 28-75 on a par with the Sigma? Having said that I doubt whether I'd get the opportunity to swap as Sigma will just repair the lens, no chance of a refund.
Click to expand...

to be honest,i don't know how the tamron would fair against the sigma,but i've not heard anything bad against it.to be honest,i'm really happy with my sigma 24-70,but i could easily fall out of love with it if i had to keep sending it back.also,don't forget..we only have a 1 yr warranty on it as we both got ours from microglobe,so after that year it would be at our expense.
 
If anybody has recently bought an Alpha/Cybershot but not yet registered it online then get 20% off accessories* at SonyStyle UK by registering.
http://www.sonystyle.co.uk/deeplink.do?s=external&ss=promotion_dime20_en_gb
20% off at SonyStyle may not be any cheaper than "street" price at a dealer though so check.

*This offer is not valid for digital photo frames, CompactFlash card, Memory Stick™, MircroVault and Alpha Lenses.
 
fabs said:
Is the 28-75 on a par with the Sigma? Having said that I doubt whether I'd get the opportunity to swap as Sigma will just repair the lens, no chance of a refund.
Click to expand...

I choose the Tam over the Sigma for my a900 - while I save for the CZ. Didn't fancy the idea of stripped gears, and both seemed to get similar reviews.

I think they are pretty much 'on par' in terms of IQ, both are a little poor wide open (an 'f4 lens' rather than an f2.8)

I would say it's not as sharp as the Tam 17-50 wide open (which was also a little 'soft' at f2.8), but it's OK and good value for the money.

I assume the new Sigma will be much better, as the price seems to have doubled. I guess we all want the CZ (just like Canon and Nikon want their equally expensive pro spec f2.8 24-70), but the Tamron and Sigma are cheaper alternatives.

The Tam is also smaller and lighter (67mm filter thread) which can be either considered good or bad depending on whether you already have the larger filters.

I have some shots with the a900+28-75 at 75mm@f2.8 that I took over Xmas with the a900. If you are interested I can make these available for view to give you an idea what images look like at f2.8.
 
springtide said:
I choose the Tam over the Sigma for my a900 - while I save for the CZ. Didn't fancy the idea of stripped gears, and both seemed to get similar reviews.

I think they are pretty much 'on par' in terms of IQ, both are a little poor wide open (an 'f4 lens' rather than an f2.8)

I would say it's not as sharp as the Tam 17-50 wide open (which was also a little 'soft' at f2.8), but it's OK and good value for the money.

I assume the new Sigma will be much better, as the price seems to have doubled. I guess we all want the CZ (just like Canon and Nikon want their equally expensive pro spec f2.8 24-70), but the Tamron and Sigma are cheaper alternatives.

The Tam is also smaller and lighter (67mm filter thread) which can be either considered good or bad depending on whether you already have the larger filters.

I have some shots with the a900+28-75 at 75mm@f2.8 that I took over Xmas with the a900. If you are interested I can make these available for view to give you an idea what images look like at f2.8.
Click to expand...

Cheers for thatr. Good to know there's an alternative if it comes down to it. (y)
 
Quick question on my a350 in manual and set to wireless flash can I have it so the built in flash does not have to be up? Because all my pictures are going really dark with studio lights.
 
Happy Snapper said:
Quick question on my a350 in manual and set to wireless flash can I have it so the built in flash does not have to be up? Because all my pictures are going really dark with studio lights.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately not as the onboard flash is what triggers the off camera lights. But it shouldn't affect your pictures as it just gives off a pre flash. Try adjusting the shutter speed and/or the ISO until you get the desired exposure.
 
fabs said:
Unfortunately not as the onboard flash is what triggers the off camera lights. But it shouldn't affect your pictures as it just gives off a pre flash. Try adjusting the shutter speed and/or the ISO until you get the desired exposure.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks will try messing about with it abit more the studio lights are tiggered by the camera fine.

Would one of them sync shoe blockes you can get off ebay be a better fix?
 
Happy Snapper said:
Ok thanks will try messing about with it abit more the studio lights are tiggered by the camera fine.

Would one of them sync shoe blockes you can get off ebay be a better fix?
Click to expand...

Are you talking about a hotshoe adapter so that you can use wireless triggers? Not sure of the advantage of those over the onboard flash, certainly a more expensive way of doing it though.
 
fabs said:
Are you talking about a hotshoe adapter so that you can use wireless triggers? Not sure of the advantage of those over the onboard flash, certainly a more expensive way of doing it though.
Click to expand...

yes well the guy whos lights Im using has a trigger however hes a canon user but then that would do just the same job my camea is already doing am I right?
 
Happy Snapper said:
Quick question on my a350 in manual and set to wireless flash can I have it so the built in flash does not have to be up? Because all my pictures are going really dark with studio lights.
Click to expand...

@Fabs, hope you are OK with me jumping in here :)

Quick question... how are you firing the studio strobes? From the popup flash triggering optical triggers? If so, I think I might know your problem (as I've had similar)

If so, unless your optical triggers have a delay setting - the pre-flash will fire the strobes.

What this does it that your strobes flash as part of the pre-flash, and then a little while later 'after the party is over' - your camera captures the image.

If the a350 has a manual flash setting - try that as it might disable pre-flash. If it doesn't, then you can either use a small cheap flash - which will need an adapter for the hotshoe for the triggering (FS-1100)
As you suggested an alternative are the cheap wireless radio triggers (Cactus triggers) which seem to work fine indoors (and the 'mains' powered ones seem better). If you need more info on these, let me know - and also the FS-1100 - unless the a350 has a PC sync socket.

Cheers
 
springtide said:
@Fabs, hope you are OK with me jumping in here :)

Quick question... how are you firing the studio strobes? From the popup flash triggering optical triggers? If so, I think I might know your problem (as I've had similar)

If so, unless your optical triggers have a delay setting - the pre-flash will fire the strobes.

What this does it that your strobes flash as part of the pre-flash, and then a little while later 'after the party is over' - your camera captures the image.

If the a350 has a manual flash setting - try that as it might disable pre-flash. If it doesn't, then you can either use a small cheap flash - which will need an adapter for the hotshoe for the triggering (FS-1100)
As you suggested an alternative are the cheap wireless radio triggers (Cactus triggers) which seem to work fine indoors (and the 'mains' powered ones seem better). If you need more info on these, let me know - and also the FS-1100 - unless the a350 has a PC sync socket.

Cheers
Click to expand...

I think you are right the built in flash and the studio one are firing at the same time I dont think there is any way of changing the way the flash fires it only flashes once there isnt a pre then a main flash im very new to this so dont have a clue. I have a flashgun should I try using that then the pop up flash wont come up?

I will have a look on ebay for the adapter the camera does not have a sync socket.

Thanks. (y)



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hot-Shoe-Adapter-w-pc-sync-For-Sony-Alpha-350-200-AQ02_W0QQitemZ280316045051QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CamerasPhoto_CameraAccessories_CameraFlashUnits_JN?hash=item280316045051&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1690|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Ok would this do the job as said have a standard hotshoe wireless trigger.
 
Happy Snapper said:
I think you are right the built in flash and the studio one are firing at the same time I dont think there is any way of changing the way the flash fires it only flashes once there isnt a pre then a main flash im very new to this so dont have a clue. I have a flashgun should I try using that then the pop up flash wont come up?

I will have a look on ebay for the adapter the camera does not have a sync socket.

Thanks. (y)
Click to expand...

What is the flashgun that you have? The key will be to whether it does manual or not, since you really don't always want it to be part of the exposure. If it does manual, then setting this on the lowest output should be enough for the optical slaves to trigger.
Also you don't want the flashgun to act as a wireless controller (as it will do all the pre-flash stuff)

Make sense?
 
Hi all,

After much research I decided to treated myself to a new camera today and bought the Sony Alpha A350.

Hope you don't mind if I start asking questions and looking for advice on how to use the camera to its full and what accessories are best suited for it.

Cheers :)
 
Sillybilly said:
Hi all,

After much research I decided to treated myself to a new camera today and bought the Sony Alpha A350.

Hope you don't mind if I start asking questions and looking for advice on how to use the camera to its full and what accessories are best suited for it.

Cheers :)
Click to expand...

hiya,and welcome to the world of sony alpha...you're in the right place for good advice,so when your ready...ask away (y)

oh,and you'll be wanting some G glass to go with your camera ;)
 
Happy Snapper said:
:LOL: Mostly

I have a jessops 360 ADF I think from memory and that can be used in manual or TTL.

would is be the answer?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hot-Shoe-Adapter-w-pc-sync-For-Sony-Alpha-350-200-AQ02_W0QQitemZ280316045051QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CamerasPhoto_CameraAccessories_CameraFlashUnits_JN?hash=item280316045051&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1690|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
Click to expand...


I don't know anything about your Jessops flash. Does this have the Minolta/Sony flash hotshoe? If it does, then you should be able to just switch that flash to manual, set it on it's lowest output and all should work (i.e. no pre-flash)

The FS-1100 (like the one you found) can be used for mounting flashes with the usual flash mount onto Sony cameras, which includes wireless triggers.
So you only need an FS-1100 if the Jessops flash doesn't fit, or you are planning on moving to wireless. If your Canon friend already has a wireless setup, then get a FS-1100 and use his wireless setup.

Almost forgot, the FS-1100 also has a PC sync socket, so you could just use this and a flash sync cable to one of the flashes (and the others will trigger via the optical slave)

If you want to know more about the wireless triggers, and what you'll need - just ask. The main differences between them are:
- some are radio, others use IR.
- some of the recievers use mains power, others use batteries
- some are for triggering hotshoe flash remotely, others are for studio lights.
- the cheaper ones work most of the time. The expensive ones work ALL of the time. The cheap triggers seem to work indoors - just not so well outdoors.

The triggering methods for hotshoe and studio lights are very similar, but it's the cabling / how they attach together that is different.
 
springtide said:
I don't know anything about your Jessops flash. Does this have the Minolta/Sony flash hotshoe? If it does, then you should be able to just switch that flash to manual, set it on it's lowest output and all should work (i.e. no pre-flash)

The FS-1100 (like the one you found) can be used for mounting flashes with the usual flash mount onto Sony cameras, which includes wireless triggers.
So you only need an FS-1100 if the Jessops flash doesn't fit, or you are planning on moving to wireless. If your Canon friend already has a wireless setup, then get a FS-1100 and use his wireless setup.

Almost forgot, the FS-1100 also has a PC sync socket, so you could just use this and a flash sync cable to one of the flashes (and the others will trigger via the optical slave)

If you want to know more about the wireless triggers, and what you'll need - just ask. The main differences between them are:
- some are radio, others use IR.
- some of the recievers use mains power, others use batteries
- some are for triggering hotshoe flash remotely, others are for studio lights.
- the cheaper ones work most of the time. The expensive ones work ALL of the time. The cheap triggers seem to work indoors - just not so well outdoors.

The triggering methods for hotshoe and studio lights are very similar, but it's the cabling / how they attach together that is different.
Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to help me out. (y)
My flashgun is a Sony fit so I will try using that for now but the adapter is only £6 so I will order one of them and use a wireless trigger.

Cheers.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Welcome Billy you have come to the right place. :wave:
 
Hey guy's a couple of quick questions If I may,

Firstly, will a lens with a SSM focus faster than the kit lens or is the focus speed dependent on the auto focus speed in the camera body itself?

Secondly if your shooting with a lens in poorer light conditions does having a camera with a low f stop (i.e 2.8) allow more light in? I seem to remember it does but my photography skills are fairly limited so I wasn't sure...

The reason I'm asking is I want to get into shooting abit of sport but as most of the sport I like has to be shot from a distance in mixed light conditions I figure I'll need to look at a faster/sharper lens to get better results. I shot a high level athletics meet yesterday and as it was a day/night event really struggled when the light dropped...

Here's a little sample of before I had light issues..

DSC01117.jpg


And here's a link to a few more.

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=116486
 
stan the man said:
it's sony's premier glass/lens,along with the zeiss lens....very expensive indeed :naughty:
Click to expand...
starts from about £550 at street prices - not really that dear.

exileded said:
Firstly, will a lens with a SSM focus faster than the kit lens or is the focus speed dependent on the auto focus speed in the camera body itself?
Click to expand...
there are a no. of variables - it's a combination of the body's AF & the in-body screw drive strength/lens gearing & similar for the in-lens motor (of which there are a couple of different types some of which really aren't great) so there are a couple of variables.
In-lens is not necessarily faster - about the only certainty is that it will be quieter.
 
exileded said:
Secondly if your shooting with a lens in poorer light conditions does having a camera with a low f stop (i.e 2.8) allow more light in? I seem to remember it does but my photography skills are fairly limited so I wasn't sure...
Click to expand...
Yes, you are correct, The lower the f-stop on the lens the more light it will let in. You would probably need to be looking at a 70-200 f2.8 lens.

There are 3 new options for the Sony, the cheapest is the Tamron at around £500, a Sigma for about £600 or the Sony G version for £1200
 
Oh well I guess I better start saving then...
Why do I have so many expensive hobbies...
 
there is also a possibility I suspect that they are tailing off their involvement (& hence licencing payments) with Zeiss.
 
heidfirst said:
there is also a possibility I suspect that they are tailing off their involvement (& hence licencing payments) with Zeiss.
Click to expand...

Possibly, reinforced by the fact that the latest flagship P&S from Sony has a G lens, but I not so sure.
As I understand it the white G lenses are still being made for them by Minolta, so they are paying them licensing. Sony and CZ already have a long standing arrangement, so they may have better terms.
But also the circumstantial evidence. The current crop of Sony made G lenses aren't top grade pro lenses like the white lenses.
The 70-300G is only f4.5-5.6. The 70-400G is only f4-5.6 albeit with fine optics. You'd expect these to be at least a constant f4 if aimed at pro users.
The new CZ are on the whole better specced with fine optics and wide apertures. Although both ranges have their exception CZ 16-80 for example (what's going on in that picture?), the bold step of finishing their newest G lenses in a resplendant silver finish suggests that they are trying to position the range in a distinctively seperate category.
It will be interesting to see if any silver CZ's turn up?
 
If this has been covered before, my apologies.

I notice on some people's signature they own and use the sigma 75-300 APO. Now I have been out and looked at one of these lens and quite like the reviews as far as IQ is concerned but..........

is there a compatability problem with the alpha series camera's. I have the a200 and really enjoy messing about with it. I have heard that the AF motor in the camera strips the threads in this particular lens causing loads of problems. Can anyone comment on this and set my worries at ease. Thank you in advance (y)
 
spannerdude said:
The current crop of Sony made G lenses aren't top grade pro lenses like the white lenses.
The 70-300G is only f4.5-5.6. The 70-400G is only f4-5.6 albeit with fine optics. You'd expect these to be at least a constant f4 if aimed at pro users.
The new CZ are on the whole better specced with fine optics and wide apertures. Although both ranges have their exception CZ 16-80 for example (what's going on in that picture?), the bold step of finishing their newest G lenses in a resplendant silver finish suggests that they are trying to position the range in a distinctively seperate category.
It will be interesting to see if any silver CZ's turn up?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure that I agree with you - the 70-300mm & 70-400mm Gs are probably class leading for what they are & e.g. a constant f4 70-400mm would be massive & considerably dearer (Nikon's 200-400 f4 is now just a shade under £6000 @rrp).
At 1 point I did think though that they were trying to have the Zeiss' lenses as majoring on biting sharpness & Gs as less sharp but better in some other IQ qualities but now I'm not so sure. I suspect that it's a bit of a moving target as the market changes & Sony plans for the future.

Gazbag, yes & no. There is certainly a problem with older stock but Sigma say that they have made production changes so it shouldn't be a problem on new production.
 
I'm sticking up for this lens as I think it gets some real bad press!

OK, the build quality of the CZ16-80 is not really up to CZ specs - although to be fair not much worse than the Canon 17-55 f2.8 L lens (and the Canon lens is much more expensive)

IQ and colours are wonderful (CZ16-80) and this was the sharpest lens I owned when I had my a700, apart from my CZ85. It's only downfall for me was it wasn't f2.8. I owned the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 at the same time but his wasn't close in terms of IQ, even stopped down.

I feel sorry for this lens, it gets a real hard time on the web - but if you speak to anyone with this lens the minority will complain a little about the build quality, but the majority will tell you that it never comes off the camera.

And G does not mean it has to be constant aperture!!! Maybe someone should tell the Canon owners that their 70-400 G (Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 L IS USM) doesn't deserve the L branding ;)

G just means Good or something like that. It's a bit meaningless and not the same from Minolta days (as Sony isn't Minolta), just a sticker to help us tell the difference between the good and the less good!
[watch out for the falling sky springtide]
There was a long discussion about G and the history on Dyxum not so long ago if people are interested.
 
springtide, it's the same with the 16-105mm - the reviews on the web are variable but overall aren't great (perhaps there were poor review samples) but users love it.

afaik G stood for Gold in that they used to have a gold ring to signify their position in the line up.
 
Gazbag said:
If this has been covered before, my apologies.

I notice on some people's signature they own and use the sigma 75-300 APO. Now I have been out and looked at one of these lens and quite like the reviews as far as IQ is concerned but..........

is there a compatability problem with the alpha series camera's. I have the a200 and really enjoy messing about with it. I have heard that the AF motor in the camera strips the threads in this particular lens causing loads of problems. Can anyone comment on this and set my worries at ease. Thank you in advance (y)
Click to expand...

Don't know about the 70-300, but I have had this problem with the 105mm macro AND the 24-70 f2.8, the latter of which is with Sigma being repaired at the moment. Have to say that I would personally think twice about buying another sigma unless they resolve the issue.
 
Gazbag said:
I have heard that the AF motor in the camera strips the threads in this particular lens causing loads of problems. Can anyone comment on this and set my worries at ease. Thank you in advance (y)
Click to expand...
Has anyone here actually had an a200, a300 or a350 strip the gears of a Sigma lens ?
I have heard a plenty of a700's and even mention of a100's doing this. But I can't seem to find a definitive answer on the a200 or a3x0's
 
leaky5 said:
Has anyone here actually had an a200, a300 or a350 strip the gears of a Sigma lens ?
I have heard a plenty of a700's and even mention of a100's doing this. But I can't seem to find a definitive answer on the a200 or a3x0's
Click to expand...

I have heard tales of at least one of those models doing it but, if I'm honest, I can't tell you where.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top