Chroma - Lasercut Acrylic 4x5 Field Camera

But really, you'd need (want?) a lens. I'm having problems getting my head round LF lenses on fleabay. There doesn't seem to be a good way to search for them: 4*5 gets rejected, and is it 4x5 or 5x4 or LF or Large Format or (more usually AFAICS) nothing LF-specific at all. Then there's those focal lengths... I assume somewhere round 150mm is a "normal" lens?

Then there's cheap versus good... some Polaroid/Tominon lenses for £100 or so, Nikon, Schneider and Rodenstock for £350 and up skywards!!!

Haven't even started thinking about filmholders yet, but assume they'll be cheaper!

Nowt is cheap in LF but I'd try to find a Fujinon lens from Japan.

Your standards are 135mm, 150 and 210. I'm not a big fan of 150 its bit nowhere for me. 210 is usually cheaper but I think its at the end of this cameras reach so close focus would be difficult/impossible, @stevelmx5 can correct me.
 
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But really, you'd need (want?) a lens. I'm having problems getting my head round LF lenses on fleabay. There doesn't seem to be a good way to search for them: 4*5 gets rejected, and is it 4x5 or 5x4 or LF or Large Format or (more usually AFAICS) nothing LF-specific at all. Then there's those focal lengths... I assume somewhere round 150mm is a "normal" lens?

Then there's cheap versus good... some Polaroid/Tominon lenses for £100 or so, Nikon, Schneider and Rodenstock for £350 and up skywards!!!

Haven't even started thinking about filmholders yet, but assume they'll be cheaper!

Personally, having tried a few different lenses out, I'd say a 135/150 is a good standard lens to use on the Chroma. I've got a 90mm/6.8 Schneider Angulon which will give me a great wide angle but will also mean a reduction in movements due to the front standard being closer to the rear. I've seen those Tominon lens/shutters before and have read mixed feelings (some suggesting they're from copy stands so only offer macro). The options from Ffordes are usually a good place to start;

http://www.ffordes.com/category/Lar...Expression=SalesPrice&SortDirection=Ascending
 
But really, you'd need (want?) a lens. I'm having problems getting my head round LF lenses on fleabay. There doesn't seem to be a good way to search for them: 4*5 gets rejected, and is it 4x5 or 5x4 or LF or Large Format or (more usually AFAICS) nothing LF-specific at all. Then there's those focal lengths... I assume somewhere round 150mm is a "normal" lens?

Then there's cheap versus good... some Polaroid/Tominon lenses for £100 or so, Nikon, Schneider and Rodenstock for £350 and up skywards!!!

Haven't even started thinking about filmholders yet, but assume they'll be cheaper!

You'll have tax and fees but something like this would be a fantastic lens https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Excellen...533936?hash=item4d6c5d4630:g:PfcAAOSwRE5aaByD
 
Remember - black on the inside to suppress the light, and white on the outside to reflect the heat...

My Paramo one is red and black. but I have a proper black and white one as well :D
 
Personally, having tried a few different lenses out, I'd say a 135/150 is a good standard lens to use on the Chroma. I've got a 90mm/6.8 Schneider Angulon which will give me a great wide angle but will also mean a reduction in movements due to the front standard being closer to the rear. I've seen those Tominon lens/shutters before and have read mixed feelings (some suggesting they're from copy stands so only offer macro). The options from Ffordes are usually a good place to start;

http://www.ffordes.com/category/Lar...Expression=SalesPrice&SortDirection=Ascending

Thanks Steve. Just thinking about this possible 6*17 back, if it's 70mm back from the normal film plane, given a minimum bellows extension of (say) 80mm, does that mean that the shortest usable focal length would be 150mm?
 
[emoji6] Sorry Baz.

I meant that I’ve already designed a 6x12 roll film back that takes 120 film spools to shoot panoramas. Some manufacturers make 6x17 rollfilm backs that need to be set back from the standard film plane (around 70mm on the Chroma) for the lens to project a large enough image (170mm wide). I might make one of those in the future but not at the moment (I’ve got enough on!)

Would that 6*12 back be adjustable to do 6*9 as well? Might make the wind-on too complicated, I guess...
 
Thanks Steve. Just thinking about this possible 6*17 back, if it's 70mm back from the normal film plane, given a minimum bellows extension of (say) 80mm, does that mean that the shortest usable focal length would be 150mm?

You've hit the nail on the head Chris and it's one of reasons I haven't spent a lot of time on the design yet. The 612 back however...
 
Would that 6*12 back be adjustable to do 6*9 as well? Might make the wind-on too complicated, I guess...

The 612 back will use a traditional red window for winding on so I could have a couple of windows to allow for different winding (and include guides in the face to reduce the opening to 6x9).
 
I've got a couple of Fujinon lenses they are very nice.

They have a good reputation, and if in a focal length that I either felt I'd like to use or had found useful and probably would buy. What's holding me back is that I favour longer rather than shorter focal lengths, as I prefer to selectively record details rather than "get it all in". I do use wide lenses on 35mm, and my favourite pair for out and about is a 90mm macro and a 21mm. On 5x4, my normal lens is now 210mm and I've used longer than that more than shorter than 150mm. For some reason (I think I could explain it) I use longer than normal lenses on the larger than 35mm film sizes.
 
Well, all I can say is I only wish I had not given away 3 4x5 film holders that were in with a pile of cameras I'd bought last year thinking I would never use them!.
Now I am going to have to buy one or two, oh and a lens, and maybe a dark cloth and maybe just maybe I will join the large format-ers :LOL:
 
If you'd like some 5x4 film holders, I think I have a few that I don't use any more (I had a mixed set of different makes and standardised on the modern Fidelity type). If I took a look in my box, I might be able to loan a lens as well - and I suppose I could wrap them up in my spare focusing cloth for protection in the post...
 
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If you'd like some 5x4 film holders, I think I have a few that I don't use any more (I had a mixed set of different makes and standardised on the modern Fidelity type). If I took a look in my box, I might be able to loan a lens as well - and I suppose I could wrap them up in my spare focusing cloth for protextion in the post...

Stephen that's very very kind of you... I will accept your offer :)

I think it would be handy to borrow a lens just to give me an idea of what focal length would suit me. But am happy if you would rather not send one out.

I have a spare 8x10 back if that's any use to you :LOL:
 
A bigger film holder could be useful - I'll sort out the bits and let you know what and when I'm sending. I should have an appropriate box somewhere.
 
The 612 back will use a traditional red window for winding on so I could have a couple of windows to allow for different winding (and include guides in the face to reduce the opening to 6x9).

That would be a very flexible approach; 6*9 is a useful size, same aspect ratio as 135, but umpteen times the size. I'm guessing it would be unwise to change in the middle of a roll. Or at least, care winding on the previous frame would be needed.

I did wonder about red window winding when I started thinking about what a 6*12 back would look like. Trouble is, I really hate red window winding (i's why my late Dad's Ikonta doesn't get the use it deserves), and it would be quite hard to use in blue hour situations... although Andy's little red torch might work, I suppose!
 
That would be a very flexible approach; 6*9 is a useful size, same aspect ratio as 135, but umpteen times the size. I'm guessing it would be unwise to change in the middle of a roll. Or at least, care winding on the previous frame would be needed.

I did wonder about red window winding when I started thinking about what a 6*12 back would look like. Trouble is, I really hate red window winding (i's why my late Dad's Ikonta doesn't get the use it deserves), and it would be quite hard to use in blue hour situations... although Andy's little red torch might work, I suppose!

I know what you mean about red windows but they’re the least complex (and therefore lightest) option that offer a lot of flexibility. I wouldn’t want to try to build in a ratchet/gear system when I’m trying to keep the back as thin and light as possible. Attaching a cumbersome back to the light camera is a bad combination!

I’ll be cutting one this week hopefully so will see how I get along with it. Of course, I’ll keep you all updated.

I’m up to 58 cameras now [emoji15]
 
That would be a very flexible approach; 6*9 is a useful size, same aspect ratio as 135, but umpteen times the size. I'm guessing it would be unwise to change in the middle of a roll. Or at least, care winding on the previous frame would be needed.

I did wonder about red window winding when I started thinking about what a 6*12 back would look like. Trouble is, I really hate red window winding (i's why my late Dad's Ikonta doesn't get the use it deserves), and it would be quite hard to use in blue hour situations... although Andy's little red torch might work, I suppose!

Only concern I'd have with 6x9 is focus, it's hard enough to nail focus when You're not enlarging that much getting a good enough focus from a relatively small bit and film gets increasingly difficult. At some point you're better with a fixed body camera.
 
Only concern I'd have with 6x9 is focus, it's hard enough to nail focus when You're not enlarging that much getting a good enough focus from a relatively small bit and film gets increasingly difficult. At some point you're better with a fixed body camera.

You’re right but with a 4x5 sized focusing screen and guide lines it’s a little easier to focus as you can see the surrounding frame. I’m not planning on adding a dedicated 6x12 glass so will use removable frame lines instead that can be overlaid when shooting 612.
 
Only concern I'd have with 6x9 is focus, it's hard enough to nail focus when You're not enlarging that much getting a good enough focus from a relatively small bit and film gets increasingly difficult. At some point you're better with a fixed body camera.

Why should 6*9 (cm) be harder to focus than 4*5 (inches)?

EDIT: Steve has the answer...
 
You’re right but with a 4x5 sized focusing screen and guide lines it’s a little easier to focus as you can see the surrounding frame. I’m not planning on adding a dedicated 6x12 glass so will use removable frame lines instead that can be overlaid when shooting 612.

So if it was 6*9 you'd be able to see outside the frame left and right, ergo a perfect LF/MF street camera! Apart from the inconspicuous bit, of course!
 
You’re right but with a 4x5 sized focusing screen and guide lines it’s a little easier to focus as you can see the surrounding frame. I’m not planning on adding a dedicated 6x12 glass so will use removable frame lines instead that can be overlaid when shooting 612.

Dad used to use a Chinagraph (?) pencil to draw lines on the screen of his Rolleiflex when he was using the 35mm converter.
 
Chinagraph pencils write on polished surfaces so were easy to wipe off. I suppose a whiteboard marker would do the same job (or just stick some insulating tape on the GG.)

The easy route is rarely as much fun as "the pretty way"!
 
Chinagraph pencils write on polished surfaces so were easy to wipe off. I suppose a whiteboard marker would do the same job (or just stick some insulating tape on the GG.)

The easy route is rarely as much fun as "the pretty way"!

I’m thinking more of printing up ohp sheets with the relevant guidelines and then dropping one in place over the glass. E.g. Have one for 4x5 with rule of thirds, one with grids, 6x2, Instax wide etc
 
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I did wonder about red window winding when I started thinking about what a 6*12 back would look like. Trouble is, I really hate red window winding (i's why my late Dad's Ikonta doesn't get the use it deserves), and it would be quite hard to use in blue hour situations... although Andy's little red torch might work, I suppose!
Just in case anybody is looking for a little red torch, I’ve just picked some up from a well known auction site https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NSA-Red-LE...145372&hash=item3f690ee04f:g:VRoAAOSw-itXtZ1t
 
Why should 6*9 (cm) be harder to focus than 4*5 (inches)?

Just thinking of this, my Ikonta focusing is an uncoupled rangefinder, or estimate the distance by eye, set it on the lens! Chances of accurate focus: low...
 
The 612 back will use a traditional red window for winding on so I could have a couple of windows to allow for different winding (and include guides in the face to reduce the opening to 6x9).

For a non-pano roll film back, would it be an option to build an adapter for an existing back (or more than one, eg different sizes), to take advantage of cranked winders? (You can perhaps tell I really don't like the knob/red window approach!) No idea how that would work with the focus screen...
 
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