D750 vs 5d Mark IV (weddings)

[dancook]

I took my Leica Q to a friend's wedding as my point and shoot (which it is), you know as wedding guests do.
They didn't have an official photographer, only a cousin with an entry DSLR and kit lens shooting from the audience. I had to step in..

I used continuous shutter for the bouquet toss, I had it on high (which is way too fast at 11 fps) and filled up the buffer pretty quick - then had the seemingly longest wait whilst the b+g wanted a photo with parents right after...

Just had to keep them talking for a bit and hope things didn't get awkward

 

[snerkler]

Just to minimise any chance of motion blur. I'll turn it down if the venue is really dark though, but that's my go-to setting. And I have it set to -0.7 exposure compensation

Useful, thanks. I often find the D750 underexposes by default (some say it's to keep the highlights knowing you can raise exposure in post) so I'd imagine that you have to bump the exposure quite a bit in post if also using -0.7 exp comp? It is great having cameras that allow us to do this so that we can preserve more highlights. I often take it for granted and it's only til I use something else I remember how good we have it

 

[Deleted sulking member 63079]

Useful, thanks. I often find the D750 underexposes by default (some say it's to keep the highlights knowing you can raise exposure in post) so I'd imagine that you have to bump the exposure quite a bit in post if also using -0.7 exp comp? It is great having cameras that allow us to do this so that we can preserve more highlights. I often take it for granted and it's only til I use something else I remember how good we have it

Depends on the scene, and how you want it to look in the end Sometimes I push it, othertimes i like it as it is slightly under exposed, but then I'll raise the shadows and tweak the tone curve. Works for me

 

[redsnappa]

So go for a canon rebel and attach a 85 prime?hehe

The clients still will not be able to tell the difference. lol.

 

[Kodiak Qc]

•


If I am asked the question… it's all Nikon.

 

[T_J_G]

Just to minimise any chance of motion blur. I'll turn it down if the venue is really dark though, but that's my go-to setting. And I have it set to -0.7 exposure compensation

This is pretty much what I do, but may drop to 1/125th if I'm in a dark, dark room.

 

[jonneymendoza]

Marketing.

Nope. Colours colours colours

 

[snerkler]

Nope. Colours colours colours

With the in camera WB tint alterations these days, and then again in post processing you can make Canon look like Nikon and vice versa tbh Jonney. I've done a lot of reading on this over the past few weeks as I too have quoted some cameras as having better skin tones, but it appears it's a bit of a myth and you can get the tones you want out of any camera.

Google skin tone myths and you'll see what I mean.

 

[Raymond Lin]

With the in camera WB tint alterations these days, and then again in post processing you can make Canon look like Nikon and vice versa tbh Jonney. I've done a lot of reading on this over the past few weeks as I too have quoted some cameras as having better skin tones, but it appears it's a bit of a myth and you can get the tones you want out of any camera.

Google skin tone myths and you'll see what I mean.

The only thing would matter is the initial import and the "base" where you begin your processing, if you are used to processing certain camera with your own presets then you will need to tweak it for new cameras.

 

[twist]

With the in camera WB tint alterations these days, and then again in post processing you can make Canon look like Nikon and vice versa tbh Jonney. I've done a lot of reading on this over the past few weeks as I too have quoted some cameras as having better skin tones, but it appears it's a bit of a myth and you can get the tones you want out of any camera.

Google skin tone myths and you'll see what I mean.

Interesting because every shot i take with a nikon has better awb and skintones sooc raw than sony. Which means less work in post.

 

[gman]

I mentioned that in post 42

Interesting that you have the shutter so high constantly, what's the thought behind that?

For me it's purely because there's little you can do about motion blur but with underexposure you have options especially if it's a raw file. Even if you can't recover it enough I guess there's always artistic options to explore to make it work also.such as adding in heavy grain for a film look or going black and white to give it a moody feel?

 

[snerkler]

Interesting because every shot i take with a nikon has better awb and skintones sooc raw than sony. Which means less work in post.

I never mentioned how much work was involved But to be honest with the amount of tweaking you can do with hues and tints of each WB setting in the camera instead you should (in theory) be able to get the tones pretty much how you want SOOC. For example I've changed my auto WB so that it's slightly cooler and slightly more magenta as they had too much of a green tinge in post. Ive also had to tweak lightroom's camera standard profile as it adds a slight green and yellow tint, but I use it over adobe standard as it generally gives an image more 'life' somehow and more pop that I don't seem to be able to get myself.

Now that I have those set there's very little WB/colour adjustment needed in post. Ideally I'd like to use the colour checker passport thingy to get the colours perfect, but as most of my shots are either sports and wildlife it's pretty much impossible to get the colour palette in my shots

 

[twist]

I never mentioned how much work was involved But to be honest with the amount of tweaking you can do with hues and tints of each WB setting in the camera instead you should (in theory) be able to get the tones pretty much how you want SOOC. For example I've changed my auto WB so that it's slightly cooler and slightly more magenta as they had too much of a green tinge in post. Ive also had to tweak lightroom's camera standard profile as it adds a slight green and yellow tint, but I use it over adobe standard as it generally gives an image more 'life' somehow and more pop that I don't seem to be able to get myself.

Now that I have those set there's very little WB/colour adjustment needed in post. Ideally I'd like to use the colour checker passport thingy to get the colours perfect, but as most of my shots are either sports and wildlife it's pretty much impossible to get the colour palette in my shots

Its pretty obvious that given enough time you can match another brands colour to some extent in a single shot by adjusting the colour sliders, however, all youve told me is that you can tweak your colours to where you want them. Not that you can accurately match another brands colour science in very little time in post every time... So Johnny prefers Canon colours, it makes sense he shoots Canon then and avoids headaches.