The question still remains, if the Mode dial is set to M, and ISO is set to Auto, What should this be called (because saying I shot in 'Not Manual' sounds silly!)?...
Simply that M with auto ISO isn’t Manual.
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The question still remains, if the Mode dial is set to M, and ISO is set to Auto, What should this be called (because saying I shot in 'Not Manual' sounds silly!)?...
Simply that M with auto ISO isn’t Manual.
...
It's not an argument, it's fact! Ye cannae change the laws of physics!I know what he's saying, you too, but it is IMO a silly argument.
I know what he's saying, you too, but it is IMO a silly argument.
A waste of time? As for the camera setting rather than this discussion, how about partial manual?The question still remains, if the Mode dial is set to M, and ISO is set to Auto, What should this be called (because saying I shot in 'Not Manual' sounds silly!)?
I believe Pentax have a separate mode for this which they call TAV,The question still remains, if the Mode dial is set to M, and ISO is set to Auto, What should this be called (because saying I shot in 'Not Manual' sounds silly!)?
I use P mode when I use flash - like Martin.No it isn't, the camera has told you the exposure, all you've done is change the auto selection a bit, so it's partial manual! Anyway, none of the above should apply to you as you should be shooting in 'P' mode like Martin does.
Fong dome all the way here, just to wind the lighting fanatics up!I use P mode when I use flash - like Martin.
Although I don't use a Fong dome as I prefer the look of a pop-up flash.
The question still remains, if the Mode dial is set to M, and ISO is set to Auto, What should this be called (because saying I shot in 'Not Manual' sounds silly!)?
What manual in those situation does do is make you consider the consequences of the settings.
when I go into a situation I set the appropriate ISO that will give me a suitable range of shutter speeds to go along with the chosen aperture.
That way all the images will match quality wise. which I consider an important factor.
How can manual meaning manual be a silly argument. it is just the way it is.
Its a semi auto mode because the camera is getting the exposure for you and setting it using the ISO.. just the same as it does when it sets your aperture or your shutter speed in the other semi auto selections..
Manual is when you set the exposure... not when the camera sets it and although its a thin line also not when the camera sets it and you compensate.. otherwise you would call every option full manual
To the OP .. with people shooting different things then your not going to get an accross the board answer as a portrait photogrpaher wiht set lighting will hav e atotally different approach to a nature or sports photogrpaher
Arguing over the semantics is silly. The camera is in manual mode.
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Or it should be called ISO Priority as thats exactly what it is same as apreture priority and shutter priority
In Auto ISO every time you change shutter speed or aperture the ISO changes. So long as you are paying attention to all three parameters you have full control in M + Auto ISO + Exposure Compensation. Which makes it full manual control in my book.But it's not - in Aperture Priority you set the aperture, in Shutter Priority you set the camera, but in (not really) Manual with Auto ISO, ISO is the one thing you don't control.
So it's 'Everything but ISO' Priority
It's not though, is it? The camera is controlling the exposure by changing the ISO. If you want to shoot in full manual mode then you have to manually set the ISO as well as the shutter speed and aperture. There is no arguing about it, that's how it is.The camera is in manual mode.
The camera is still changing the ISO automatically, all you've done there is put it a notch or two up or down, the camera is still deciding and changing the exposure for itself, you've just interfered with it a little bit. Now go and stand in the corner and think about what you've done!In Auto ISO every time you change shutter speed or aperture the ISO changes. So long as you are paying attention to all three parameters you have full control in M + Auto ISO + Exposure Compensation. Which makes it full manual control in my book.
I will not.The camera is still changing the ISO automatically, all you've done there is put it a notch or two up or down, the camera is still deciding and changing the exposure for itself, you've just interfered with it a little bit. Now go and stand in the corner and think about what you've done!
No, the camera is changing the exposure, all you are doing is fighting it a bit. Now if you manually set the shutter speed and aperture, and manually fix the ISO so it will not change no matter where you point your camera lens, then, and only then, are you in FULL MANUAL control of your camera.In my viewfinder I can see the values for all three parameters and alter them as I see fit. I AM IN FULL MANUAL CONTROL.
Auto ISO does not work toward capturing fewer photons; the ISO is the last thing that changes, and it only does so as required for a "proper exposure." E.g. in S/Tv you set the SS and the mode allows the camera to change the aperture, when it runs out of range auto ISO kicks in. In A/Av you set the aperture and the mode allows the camera to change the SS (which can be limited), when it runs out of range (or hits the defined limit) auto ISO kicks in. And in M you set both the SS/Ap and the mode doesn't allow the camera to change either, so auto ISO kicks in immediately.it also works to achieve the lowest common denominator "Quality" wise. It always works toward capturing fewer photons.
Auto ISO does not work toward capturing fewer photons; the ISO is the last thing that changes, and it only does so as required for a "proper exposure." E.g. in S/Tv you set the SS and the mode allows the camera to change the aperture, when it runs out of range auto ISO kicks in. In A/Av you set the aperture and the mode allows the camera to change the SS (which can be limited), when it runs out of range (or hits the defined limit) auto ISO kicks in. And in M you set both the SS/Ap and the mode doesn't allow the camera to change either, so auto ISO kicks in immediately.
Because none of my cameras have ever allowed limiting the aperture range the camera can choose in S/Sv I won't use that mode. I often use A/Av with SS and ISO limits set for the auto ISO. And when Ap and SS are equally important (like when forcing a slow SS for panning) I will switch to M w/ auto ISO. About the only time I turn off auto ISO is when working with lighting.
In my viewfinder I can see the values for all three parameters and alter them as I see fit. I AM IN FULL MANUAL CONTROL.
what about the fully manual photographers who just centre the cameras meter?It just tickles me to think that some of those pedants who believe you can't be a 'proper photographer' unless you shoot in full manual, aren't actually shooting in full manual themselves, as they're using auto ISO! I love the irony of that.
As Canon were the first to give the world a multi-mode 35mm SLR with P, Av, Tv and M (plus stopped-down AE) with the Canon A1, then I think it's only right that they should have been able to call the various modes whatever they wanted to!What the Hell are you on about ??? SS, S/Sv, S/Tv ???
OMG !!! You're a Canon user, aren't you !!!
Respect flown RAPIDLY out of the window
Dave
PS - and for using auto-ISO too
If you are in M mode and Auto iso, and you take a photo and when you look at it the iso is 400 ..... who chose the iso, you did or the camera chose it ... enough said ...
If your ISOis set to auto you can’t alter it as you see fit.I will not.
In my viewfinder I can see the values for all three parameters and alter them as I see fit. I AM IN FULL MANUAL CONTROL.
TBH I DGAF what mode anyone uses.
If I didn't know the camera was using ISO 400 for the image then the camera chose it. If I did know the camera was using ISO 400 for the image then I chose/allowed it.If you are in M mode and Auto iso, and you take a photo and when you look at it the iso is 400 ..... who chose the iso, you did or the camera chose it ... enough said ...
No you may have a degree of manual control but not FULL manual control. Changes to the meter reading in the milliseconds after you've checked the settings & prior to you pressing the shutter release can completely change the value the camera uses.
Having the ability to spot an automatic setting you don't like & override it is a function of nearly all the (semi) automatic modes. Full manual is where the automatic systems don't even get a look in.
Unless you're that bloke off Vicar of Dibley.You shouldnt start the post with NO when your agreeing wiht me
I realised I'd quoted the wrong post & so was busy editing it.You shouldnt start the post with NO when your agreeing wiht me
OK why not just use a Incident light meter, it shows how rarely the exposure needs to be changed as you move the finder around the scene.
In built meters spend far too much time compensating for the tonality of objects in the image. when it is just this difference in tonality that you are capturing.
Modern cameras are doing their best to emulate the consistency of an incident reading. ( and now do an excellent job as they read just about all the pixels.)
Not that I bother using any of mine, a glance at the histogram tells me what is going on.
I was with you until the histogram bit - I NEVER EVER bother with mine, tells me nothing I wish to know
I'm a Blinkies fan - Blinkies rule
Dave
PS - SOZ OP - I've taken this off-topic - ignore this post
The histogram tells you the distribution of tones, if that seem different to what you want to achieve , you can then adjust to taste.
And what caused the meter reading to change? Will the altered settings result in a better exposure, or worse?Changes to the meter reading in the milliseconds after you've checked the settings & prior to you pressing the shutter release can completely change the value the camera uses.
This really needs to be put into context in terms of the type of photography/situation IMO.OK why not just use a Incident light meter, it shows how rarely the exposure needs to be changed as you move the finder around the scene.
In built meters spend far too much time compensating for the tonality of objects in the image. when it is just this difference in tonality that you are capturing.
I was with you until the histogram bit - I NEVER EVER bother with mine, tells me nothing I wish to know