I found this blog post about it if it's any help Chris? It appears to suggest 6 minutes.Looking on the Massive Dev Chart, it has two times for Ilford Ortho+ in HC 110 B shot at 80, at 20 C, 6 minutes and 8 minutes. There's no explanation. Any hints as to which to pick anyone?
Thanks Nige. 6 minutes it is (less 15% for the Rondinax, makes 5 minutes 10 seconds by my reckoning)...I found this blog post about it if it's any help Chris? It appears to suggest 6 minutes.
Filmdev suggest 6 minutes too: https://filmdev.org/recipe/show/12375
Didn't spot this until after it was done, Ian. Thanks though. Now drying...Lol. I didn't check and did mine in HC-110(B) for 8 mintes! Results here: https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/ians-contact-sheets-for-2020.705747/page-3#post-8719788
Looking back at the contact sheet, it is a bit over exposed, but only a bit. Nothing that couldn't be recovered in Lightroom and I was really pleased with the DR of the film.
I'd suggest 8 min wouldn't break it. How about split the difference
Iirc FP4 sheet film also has two times with no explanation....I simply went half way between them then adjusted accordingly with future sheets.Looking on the Massive Dev Chart, it has two times for Ilford Ortho+ in HC 110 B shot at 80, at 20 C, 6 minutes and 8 minutes. There's no explanation. Any hints as to which to pick anyone?
I haven't scanned it yet, but just held the negs up to the light and they look nice and contrasty! That was 6 minutes (less 15%). What would I see if it was under?
Well, the negatives do not look under-exposed or under-developed! Sorry, probably won't get scanned today, what with being Pa's day and all I'm expected to be sociable!Ilford have some example images on this page: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/common-processing-problems/
Scroll down to the sections on developed negatives being too dark / too light.
After 24 hours in the sleeves under a heavy book, the strips definitely went back into the sleeves a lot more easily. I think it must have been the humidity; a few things here have not properly dried after a whole day on the stands! I always have a little difficulty with sleeving; drying negs is a bit of a tossup between not quite dry and much too dusty!I'm just about to scan them, I hope they go back into the sleeves a bit easier than yesterday...
My time is 6:00 at 400 and 8:30 at 800. Dil B at 20 degrees. I shovelled quite a lot of Tri-X through those times last year so am pretty happy with them.When I was updating my crib sheet, I realised that my time of 5 minutes 30 was actually based on 85% of @simon ess 's suggestion of 6 minutes 30, which has mostly worked well for me in the past. So, I'm not sure quite what the problem was in that first roll, but I'm guessing exposure problems rather than devving.
The Covington HC 110 resource is interesting, particularly the last paragraph in the following quote:My time is 6:00 at 400 and 8:30 at 800. Dil B at 20 degrees. I shovelled quite a lot of Tri-X through those times last year so am pretty happy with them.
Just ordered a (relatively!!) el-cheapo bulk roll from AW. Will deffo try 6:30. I do think HC-110 is a great partner to Tri-X. Will be intereesting to see if it pushes as nicely as HP5 does in DD-X. And by "nicely" I mean "still keeping the characteristics of Tri-X but able to shoot it at higher ISOs" rather than just "less grainy".BTW his recommendation is 6:30 at 20C...
According to Ilford:Just devving another roll. Decided to "compromise" on ~7 minutes (standard time, reduced to 6 for Rondinax). No idea why!
Does anyone know how long a mixed batch of Ilfostop should last? I mixed up 750 ml when I started devving 4x5 in January 2019, and I've been drawing off and replacing 200 ml at a time for 135 film ever since!
Well, it's way more than 7 days (not yet 700 days, though)! It's still a nice yellow colour, not a hint of purple. I mixed it at the same time as mixing the 750 ml of fixer; I test the film leader with that before every film, and it's still clearing in under 2 minutes, and doesn't have obvious floaters.According to Ilford:
Storage and solution life Concentrate
ILFOSTOP concentrate will keep for:-
5 years in full airtight bottles
12 months in half full tightly capped bottles
7 working days.
I'm not sure what working strength means? I mix up a batch and I usually change mine when I mix some fresh fixer. It probably takes 3-5 months between batches based on my rate of shooting film. It's never actually turned purple though.
I'm sorry I never showed an image in response to this! far too late for you, Ian, but...