http://www.processuk.net/Glassine_Negative_Inserts_135mm_7-Strip_25-Pack/p740597_3428183.aspxI've just discovered that the sleeves I was given by a member on here, Jessops Archival Storage Systems sheets, are in strips of 4. Worse, there are pairs of strips, inserted from opposite sides. Needs must for now, but I wondered what's a good source of storage sheets in 6s?
Well done Chris, I've just checked and their postage is quite reasonable too, although I normally just collect. If I'd known you were after some I could have picked some up before the meet.Thanks Nick, two packs ordered...
Well done Chris, I've just checked and their postage is quite reasonable too, although I normally just collect. If I'd known you were after some I could have picked some up before the meet.
I tried the wet leader method and got nowhere so I bought this.
It works a treat. I had 5 films to do. Most worked first time but I had one that took a dozen goes. Worked in the end though.
I'd be happy to lend you mine or you could just buy one at that price.
If the tongue has been completely wound into the cartridge by accident, the latter must be carefully opened in the dark room, in a darkened room, or under thick bedclothes. Agfa cartridges are opened as follows: after tearing off the paper strip, the cap may be removed by slipping it over the milled knob; the central core of the film pulled partially out of the outer cylindrical casing and the tongue of the film threaded into the velvet-coated light-trap. The cap of the cartridge should then be carefully replaced over the milled knob.
That's odd Chris.
Mine came with clear instructions and the e-bay listing states "with instructions"
I wonder if they sent the one listed.
Can I ask a question, 'cause I'm a little bit confused about something.
Why do you need to extract the leader?
I was asking about those things that help you retrieve leaders that have been wound in, so as I can use my Rondinax daylight processing tank...
The Rondinax instructions say:
I'm not sure if modern film cassettes are "Agfa cartridges" as per this instruction (I don't recognise any paper strip to be torn off, for instance), so I'm not sure if I should attempt this.
Hi, I'm old enough to remember Agfa 35mm cassettes from the 1960s. That was when cassettes were reusable (certainly Ilford and Agfa ones were). I've only kept my FP3 and FP4 versions from that era but Agfa cassettes were the best to have as they were most reusable. The end caps fitted right over the main body and came down for about1/4" and they were a sliding fit. Only a gummed piece of paper attached to the body and the cap kept them securely in place.
I was asking about those things that help you retrieve leaders that have been wound in, so as I can use my Rondinax daylight processing tank...
This just arrived and I've tried 3 times with 2 different cassettes. End result, the secondary blade is bent and the plastic frame is coming apart. I've contacted them asking for a return. It doesn't look nearly robust enough! Fleabay shows another one that looks much more robust, with 3 blades, and visible, more helpful instructions.
But just recently I've been wondering what folk do who buy bulk film. How do you get that into cassettes?
Just received a Matin Film Picker 7 off the evil bay, and it worked first time to retrieve the film from my abortive POTY attempt last Saturday!
Now, do I assume that the film is blank and therefore reusable, or the film was exposed and therefore I should dev it next time?
I would assume it is exposed and dev it. If you re-shoot it and has been exposed you will lose the images anyway so you've nothing to lose except a roll of film.
this is a pre wash? ive never ever done one. I warm the tank up in the CPE2 for 5 mins though but ive never washed the film.
Ilford's advice (see pdf here - page 10, step 13) is ...
I should have added: Ilford in their pdf specify Ilford Rapid fixer, which is a non-hardening fixer. A hardening fixer will mean that it takes more washing to remove (because of the hardening effect on the gelatine). Some films are rather more sensitive than others to abrasion and may need a hardening fixer; and some films require more washing to remove the dyes rather than the residual fixer.
I presume the last (20 inversion) wash is the one with distilled water/flow agent/ Fairy?
I just take the lid off the tank and shove it under the tap for 10 minutes.
The effectiveness of washing is going to depend on how easily the chemicals are removed from the emulsion; colder water will take longer, but in the absence of scientific testing I can't comment on the practical difference. The cold tap here delivers water at about 55 degrees, which is barely high enough for some developing agents to work.
The effectiveness of using running water will depend on the circulation as well; water in at the top and out at the top could leave the heavier chemical laden water at the bottom of the tank and rather reduce the efficiency of washing to the top of the film.
I just take the lid off the tank and shove it under the tap for 10 minutes.