I’d expect a good condition Seiko shutter to be like clockwork.
Lol - very good!
I’d expect a good condition Seiko shutter to be like clockwork.
I’d expect a good condition Seiko shutter to be like clockwork.
Does it make a significant difference if a lens is in a Seiko (or Seikosha) shutter rather than Copal? I was thinking in the context of the Chroma... I've been looking at Fujinon LF lenses on fleabay and almost all are (a) from Japan and (b) not with Copal shutters!
The sizes of the apertures differ according to focal length. If both stop down to, say, f45, then the size of the minimum opening for a 75mm lens will be smaller than that for a 150mm lens. So, if I was to guess, I'd say that the model numbers indicate what range of openings a shutter has. They don't denote focal lengths because a shutter that provides, say, f5.6 to f45 for a 75mm lens would provide f8 to f64 for a 150mm lens. Once you've decided what focal length lens is to be fitted, you stick on an f-stop scale to suit.
Hope it is one of those fancy big Minis that you're driving.
So, loupes again. There's a thing called Warwickshire Open Studios going on at the moment, and as part of that I had an excellent free workshop last evening with John Whitmore, who is a professional film photographer just out of Coventry. He shoots 35mm, but mainly MF and LF. There was an old 4x5 on the desk, and an absolutely yuge Intrepid 8x10! I gather he's also got an early Chroma order in, too. He agreed to show/help (mainly show) me how to make a proper silver halide 8x10 print of a favourite black and white negative (it's a long story, sorry, but I'm getting there). Anyway, as part of this we were looking at my negatives through his loupe. He could see them clearly with the loupe on the light table, but I found I had to lift the loupe a couple of mm above the light table to get focus, This is presumably because of yet another body part that's gradually failing, in this case my eyes needing a dioptre or two help. I imagine that having to check focus while holding a loupe the right distance away from the ground glass would be crazy hard!
To the question: do loupes have focus adjustability? Do I have to look for a special one?
(Oddly, I use the dioptre adjustment on my Pentax LX viewfinder, but seem to be able to focus pretty well with the MX where the viewfinder has no adjustment, though I probably spend more time tracking back and forth on the MX.)
John is on twitter as @thedarkshed and I have tried to persuade him to join us here; he seemed pretty interested....
I’ve been chatting to John about his Chroma. As one of the first 10 backers, he’s having his engraved and we’ve also been talking about the shows he’s attending (including the one you met him at). He kindly offered to include Chroma flyers with his packs that he gives out so I’m currently drawing up some to be engraved on acrylic (you know I like to be different!). He told me about the photowalks he runs and I’m hoping to be able to go along to one at some point this year if I can make it.
I have a very cheap 8x loupe with no dioptre correction and I can only use it with glasses off. Im not sure what this adds to the conversation if anything but I just wanted to be involved.
I have a very cheap 8x loupe with no dioptre correction and I can only use it with glasses off.
John @thedarkshed told me on twitter that he's joined the forum, although don't expect him to be active until the Open Studios thing ends after next week. Even then it'll take him time to read through all the relevant threads!
(Note to self, at an appropriate point Andy's thread needs a revival so he can be sure to know what a load of p1sstakers we all are!)
Anyway, as part of this we were looking at my negatives through his loupe. He could see them clearly with the loupe on the light table, but I found I had to lift the loupe a couple of mm above the light table to get focus, This is presumably because of yet another body part that's gradually failing, in this case my eyes needing a dioptre or two help. I imagine that having to check focus while holding a loupe the right distance away from the ground glass would be crazy hard!
I’ve been chatting to John about his Chroma. As one of the first 10 backers, he’s having his engraved and we’ve also been talking about the shows he’s attending (including the one you met him at). He kindly offered to include Chroma flyers with his packs that he gives out so I’m currently drawing up some to be engraved on acrylic (you know I like to be different!). He told me about the photowalks he runs and I’m hoping to be able to go along to one at some point this year if I can make it.
I'm here! Hello everyone, and thanks for the invite @ChrisR , this seems like a fun place to be!
The loupe you used was the Gaoersi 8x (I think I got it from Student Photo Store) - it is adjustable but I believe I was unscrewing the wrong part the other night...
Hey Steve, nice to meet you in another context - one day it will be in real life!
Yeah, the link above that @C&C posted has a lot of useful info on how to tell what version of a lens it is. I think 'non-ring' would refer to the retaining ring that you use to fix the lens to a board since I can't see it in the photos.
As far as I know, the W series with the Seiko shutters means its almost certainly the first iteration of that lens, and will be a single coated lens. This in itself is not 'bad', it's just that certain aspects of the image (such as flair handling or colour contrast) may not be as good as the latest models.
For that price though, I'd snap it up.
So, um, without the ring, how would I fix it to the board?
Here you go Chris and there are other options to purchase the ring on that site as well.
https://ebay.co.uk/itm/Copal-Compur-0-Shutter-Retaining-Ring-for-Rodenstock-Fujinon-Schneider-etc-Lens/202242661803?epid=7015653380&hash=item2f169a1dab:g:y2IAAOSweDJalXAn&_sacat=0&_nkw=Copal+0+lens+ring&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313