@stevelmx5
bit of a daft question but whats the longest lens the Chroma can accommodate and focus at infinity?
Do you use the 65mm with a recessed lensboard? I had to on my cameras.
In fact I’m looking at obtaining one for my 75mm as even that causes some difficulties with movements due to bellows compression.
Ah yes, good point, I shall keep an eye out for them as well.There are telephoto large format lenses that require significantly less bellows draw than the focal length
@stevelmx5
bit of a daft question but whats the longest lens the Chroma can accommodate and focus at infinity?
Not needed a recessed lensboard on either camera although it's close on the Wista.
The bellows will actually draw to around 350mm, but the bed/standards extend to just under 300mm.
Not needed a recessed lensboard on either camera although it's close on the Wista.
That's good to know. I designed it to work without a recessed board for 65mm lenses, but real world feedback is really useful.
Architecture however , particularly redressing of verticals can sometimes require quite a bit of adjustments. ( but of course you guys already know this! )
You'll be interested in what I'm releasing at The Photography Show then.....Carbon Fibre....sliding rear standard...bag bellows/traditional bellows....rear swing....fresnel...lightweight..
….and available in 10x8 of course
Erm....not this version ;0)
Yes LF is fun [emoji4]
A large black t-shirt works well as a darkcloth as does a jacket,scarf, sweater etc should you get on location to realise the ‘proper’ darkcloth is in another camera bag at home!!
Thé mod54 will accept a max of 6 sheets at a time but I always found that complications arose with several sheets including loading difficulties so I chose to develop one or two sheets at a time.
More chems but less chance of stuffing half a dozen frames in the same session.
Tbh I rarely use my mod54 now, much preferring the orbital and typically I dev each sheet individually.
1/30 @ f/22.....flip i can’t recall the last time I used 1/25...... typically 1/2 - 1/8 , maybe 1/15 and that’s if I’m outdoors.
I’m guessing that you’re using 400 asa film and no filters?
Actually it was Fomopan 100. The day was VERY bright and the sunlight harsh (such is the way up here in sunny Aberdeenshire) The other three were taken at 1/10. It is proving a bit of a challenge with the lightmeter as the times shown are the more modern variety of 15,30,60 and 125 whils the shutter shows 10 25 50 & 100. Still I don't suppose it makes that much of a difference. I have manages to source a stepping ring from 40.5 to 49 mm so filters will be possible. My main problem was paint flakes from the film holders landing on the film. That, hopefully has now been resolved and with a bit of practice the problems of uneven development will be overcome.
I have seen the orbital method on YouTube and wonder if it is worth considering.
I have been using Stand Development for my 120 films out of the 645 pro and was hoping to do the same for the 4x5 stuff as I'm not a great fan of grain. having said that a scan of the neg resulted in a 11,000 wide (900+mm) image. Grain - what grain?
I agree with Asha about the 2 being close enough, plus the actual accuracy of shutter speeds on older kit might be more likely to cause any problem. My Rolleicord is set in EVs with a notional halfstop between, but I regularly meter somewhere between the half and full numbers, so close enough.a bit of a challenge with the lightmeter as the times shown are the more modern variety of 15,30,60 and 125 whils the shutter shows 10 25 50 & 100. Still I don't suppose it makes that much of a difference.
@Andysnap, do you know which 300 you’re after? I’m not sure on prices at the moment, but the Nikkor M 300 is alleged to be a fantastic lens, and tiny as well. Though more costly, the fujinon A and fujinon C are also exceptionally good.
I think the m version is out of my price range however after doing some research I may have a cunning plan . More later.
I think the m version is out of my price range however after doing some research I may have a cunning plan . More later.
I reckon he's going for a crop sensor ...
150mm lens and a 120 back
[emoji848] a symmar s 150mn and à Netto magnifying glass?? [emoji23]
Oh you tease!
Depends how far you have to walk when you get there Steven. I'd be tempted to take both kits and see which way the wind's blowing (literally!) when you get there. Might also depend on your expected shutter speed with Fomapan, and whether you want the subject to be moving during the exposure?
This is a good question actually. Going off weather reports at the time for numerical values for wind speeds.
Assuming there is no escape from the wind (which, for most places, you could probably find a sheltered spot?):
I found that anything above 30 mph is practically impossible if you can't shelter the camera with yourself or anything to hand; it just adds too much vibration even for moderately quick shutter speeds. I found that below 20 mph, it was quite easy to take a shot in a moment of lull, or just by shielding the camera with the dark slide once removed.
Anything above about 40 mph I just wouldn't bother setting the camera up. Even with slight lull and with me sheltering the camera, it just wasn't enough.
All this changes though if you can find a sheltered spot, so as Peter says, worth taking it all if you can
Tie a kite to the tripod. If the kite's in the air, treat it as a warning that the wind is possibly too strong. If the camera and tripod are also in the air, maybe pack up THE KIT THAT’S LEFT AVAILABLE TO SALVAGE and go home.
So what we need is to take an anemometer and record that along with the shutter speed to get some decent quantitative data.
This [emoji1]
My tripod doesn't have a hook for some reason so I need to find some shelter or pick my battles.
Actually though under the dark cloth is something I forgot about how bloody annoying it can be. I'm hoping my new smaller one will be better but the one I had before was for a 8x10 camera and if worn on my shoulders reached my ankles!
Can you not adopt something like cord from beneath the tripod head to then attach some weight below the column?
Paramo darkcloths are small, lightweight and waterproof..... they don’t come cheap mindst....about 80 quid iirc.
I’d gladly let you borrow mine to try but of course I need it for my own use.
Afternoobs all!
So I was wondering if any of you good people use a mod54 for your sheet developing? Since trying to mod my SP-445 film inserts and failing hard, I've gone back to the taco method. I'm finding of late that I getting rub marks on the rear (non-emulsion) side which won't come off. As such, I was wondering about the mod54. It's a bit on the pricey side of things, but if it works well, I can see myself justifying the money in time. What have been your collective experiances with the mod54?
Many thanks!
It's ok, works fine for me. I find it better to not use all 6 spaces as occasionally 1 will pop out of its slot and rub up against the next slot and there's always 4 marks where the neg rubs up against the holder but otherwise I like it.