I use manual focus, but I did find that I had to move backwards somewhat to get a clear image.
Ah, for each focal length of your lens there will be a minimum working distance between the end of the lens and the subject. Get closer than that and the camera can't focus properly. You do need to make sure you are further away from that.
For the avoidance of doubt (and my apologies if this is obvious and I'm just repeating myself) the "rocking backwards and forwards" method for focusing is something else again. Here is an experiment you might like to try.
Focus the camera on infinity and then don't touch the focus ring. (Actually I don't think it has to be infinity, and perhaps a bit less than infinity might actually be better, as some lenses may possibly focus out "beyond infinity" and never give you an image with best sharpness if you turn the focus ring all the way.)
Set the zoom to zoom quite a lot (all the way if you like). Then don't touch the zoom ring.
Set the aperture to something small (big f number) like f/16 or f/22. This will give you the most DOF you can get.
Point the camera towards something and move towards/away from it until the image comes into focus. Once you get the distance about right, as you move slightly towards and away from the subject you will be able to watch the image going in and out of focus.
If you can arrange it so you can make quite small changes in distance to the subject in a controlled fashion (e.g. on a tripod or supported in some other way, or if you have very steady hands), set the aperture to something large (small f number), like f/5.6 or f/4 or f/2.8 if you lens will go that far. This will give you small DOF and make it easier to see what happens. Set it up so the subject is in focus. Then as you move the camera very slightly backwards and forwards you may be able to see how the parts of the image that are in sharpest focus change as the camera moves.
Similar to this, take photos while you are doing this and then examine them to see how the areas of best focus change.
Another thing you might like to try, with the camera on a tripod or supported in some other way, is to set it up with maximum zoom (so you get maximum magnification), and properly focused on the subject. Then take a lot of shots without altering anything. Perhaps do this several times, refocusing the camera each time and perhaps changing the magnification a little too. You may be surprised at how much difference there can be between the images in a particular set done with identical settings, especially if you do this experiment out of doors with a flower or something on a leaf, even on an apparently very calm day.
You are very welcome, but ...
I think you're my new guru!! LOL!
LOL!! I really don't think so. We use different types of camera, so some of the techniques I use won't work for you (e.g. how I focus), and I'm not familiar with how best to use a dSLR, never having used one. I have never used a zoom macro like you use, and have never used a dedicated macro lens like I suspect you may be going to get before too long. I don't do much really close-up close-up stuff that most people seem to prefer, and I use some techniques that most people don't. So (I suggest) spread your net wide, and look and learn from the amazing macros and close-ups you can see here and elsewhere, and from the people who produce them. There are lots of ways of tackling macros, and each of us needs to find what works best for us. Look, listen, learn, and then copy, experiment, adjust to find what feels right for you. And practice. A lot.
