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Depends what camera body but for me Group Area-AF on AF-C works best in most cases.
Nikon D5
- Thread starter kevshore
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Depends what camera body but for me Group Area-AF on AF-C works best in most cases.
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So basically stick with what I used on the D4s and not use the 3D function.It shares the same/similar AF system to the D500 which I use
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Never, ever had a 3D function that works for wildlife, particularly BIF ... wants to go anywhere but where the bird is!
Although your setting will be the same, the response with the D5 will be far better than with the D4S.
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I don't fine tune unless I see something wrong, but results with folk's Auto AF fine tune have been mixed from what I've seen.
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I didn't know the D4s has auto fine tune?
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I tried it with the D500 and a Nikon 70-300mm when I first got the camera to see how it worked, but was getting various readings back each time I measured it. As it is the lens seems so much sharper wide open than it ever was on the D300S without any adjustment. I think it is a good idea, but Nikon have been so vague in their instructions that I think it is technology whose time will come if Nikon can sort it out better.
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Not really risky but not very reliable either, most who have tried it get a different reading every time ... the method used almost guarantees moving the focus when trying to set it.
I didn't know the D4s has auto fine tune?
It doesn't
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Just wanted to see if anyone else has an idea about this apart from just me and Gramps
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/help-with-d5-settings.634055/#post-7536900
Guys
When I used my D810 while shooting birds I used to set my f to say f8 and use the rear wheel to adjust ISO until I had the desired shutter speed say 1/1000.
I've been trying to get the same with my D5 but for the love of me I can't figure it out........ Can someone please point me in the right direction.
Thanks
Neil
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/help-with-d5-settings.634055/#post-7536900
Guys
When I used my D810 while shooting birds I used to set my f to say f8 and use the rear wheel to adjust ISO until I had the desired shutter speed say 1/1000.
I've been trying to get the same with my D5 but for the love of me I can't figure it out........ Can someone please point me in the right direction.
Thanks
Neil
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I Know that Kev Shore who was the original author for this thread has i'll give him nudge later
sk66
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I've not used 3D on the D5 yet... Never liked it before, but with the separate processor now it is probably better. I should probably give it a fair try... I imagine it will be very situational where it works well (color/contrast/speed/etc).
My general rule is to use as few AF points as possible... which means the easier the subject, the fewer I use. I've even used auto for very fast subjects (swifts) against a clear sky.
I don't tend to use group AF, because in a dynamic tracking mode the "single point" is actually in "group mode" anyway.
I've used the 1.4,1.7, and 2x (more typically)... no issues with any of them. But it's more of a Lens/TC/Body combination thing, that will never change.
Neil, going to check the other post now.
My general rule is to use as few AF points as possible... which means the easier the subject, the fewer I use. I've even used auto for very fast subjects (swifts) against a clear sky.
I don't tend to use group AF, because in a dynamic tracking mode the "single point" is actually in "group mode" anyway.
I've used the 1.4,1.7, and 2x (more typically)... no issues with any of them. But it's more of a Lens/TC/Body combination thing, that will never change.
Neil, going to check the other post now.
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600mm f4....latest model?... of course the key is going to be the lens
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D5 + 600 f4 + TC1.4 should be fine, you will hardly notice any IQ loss as long as there are no AF tuning issues.
Of course your field of view will be narrower so a little more difficult to get the subject in the viewfinder and to track but you already know that.
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I enable all of them and choose as few as needed. But the system is fast enough that I have not noticed having all of them active slowing things down or reducing accuracy at all.
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I'm recovering from shoulder surgery on Thursday and planning to go and shoot some sea birds on Monday from a jetty so hopefully once I get the camera set up on wimberly head I should be okay......... Looking forward to it as this will be the first time to use it
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Basically, I select as few focus points possible as long as I can keep them on the subject while tracking.
Small/fast/erratic ='s more AF points... less control over what exactly is focused on, but a greater probability that there will be *something* in focus.