Nikon D5xxx Owners Thread

neilos100 said:
NIce one John, looks like you got yourself a bargain. Had time to take any photos yet? The image in the link looks fantastic and I look forward to seeing some of yours. Looks like a whole new world of lenses has just opened up for us D5000 owners!....Neil
Click to expand...

i now have both of these..."link"

the 50mm Ai is due to go to ffordes with my F3 for sale ....:(
the 50mm pre-Ai I'll keep - it is really sharp - feels "best of both worlds" with a 40year old lens on a digital camera

really, it wasn't that long ago that I used to MF and set exposures with a Weston Master V..[still have]...are we getting lazy with coupled meters and AF-S lenses...?....:LOL:
 
I've been playing round with welding glass on my D5K and here is a selection.


F10, 30sec, 35mm









 
pardon my total ignoerance, what does welding glass do and where do you get it from?
 
johnsy said:
I've been playing round with welding glass on my D5K and here is a selection.




like this - just enough foreground interest with the reflections

out of interest - how long to process/alter/etc each image..?
Click to expand...
 
Monday Glasgow night-shoot

anyone had any experience of how high you can push the ISO before noise is noticeable..?
 
Yardbent said:
Monday Glasgow night-shoot

anyone had any experience of how high you can push the ISO before noise is noticeable..?
Click to expand...

I have read that due to the D5k's CMOS and EXPEED it is possible to get up to ISO 1600 and 3200, but by using the High Noise reduction you will still get a little noise but not that bad.

Perhaps if your using a tripod, once set up you could experiment by just changing different ISO settings and comparing the results, would be interesting.
 
AFC said:
I have read that due to the D5k's CMOS and EXPEED it is possible to get up to ISO 1600 and 3200, but by using the High Noise reduction you will still get a little noise but not that bad.

Perhaps if your using a tripod, once set up you could experiment by just changing different ISO settings and comparing the results, would be interesting.
Click to expand...

thanks -- I have downloaded Noiseware but begrudge the time messing about on my PC "after" taking the shot, so want to find an ISO level that I am content with for my A4 prints

have tripod and Remote release - will try various ISO values
 
Back button focusing, does the shutter button do anything when half pressed if you change it? What does it do when you hold the back button while releasing the shutter?
 
Half press on the shutter button gives you Exposure Lock.

When holding down the backbutton and press the shutter button it takes the photo.
 
Those who bought battery grips for your D5000's can you answer a stupid question please.

Can you shoot using the camera's shutter button and then take a shot using the grip's shutter button without changing any settings?

I have just got a battery grip and for some reason cant use the grips shutter button after using the camera's shutter button unless I go in and change settings each time, and vice versa.
 
I changed the use of the function button on the side of the camera to alter shooting mode. Now I just press function button and turn the wheel a couple of clicks to alternate between normal shooting and infrared for when I use the grip.
 
Thanks Lee, it sounds so stupid that you have to change things just to shoot in Landscape on the camera and then potrait on the grip.

I may send this back if I cant get it to work properly. It balances the camera nicely and gives it a nice chunky feel, but I cant be bothered naffing about as you should be able to shoot using either button.
 
AFC said:
Half press on the shutter button gives you Exposure Lock.

When holding down the backbutton and press the shutter button it takes the photo.
Click to expand...

I thought it did, thanks. You say hold down the back button and then press the shutter...I've not been doing that though, just pressing the button once to focus and then take the photo. Only sometimes I keep forgetting I set the back button to focus and half press the shutter before the full press. Would this affect the photo in anyway, like change the exposure? Maybe I need to change it back it to what it was.
 
Pezza4u said:
..............., just pressing the button once to focus and then take the photo. Only sometimes I keep forgetting I set the back button to focus and half press the shutter before the full press. Would this affect the photo in anyway, like change the exposure? Maybe I need to change it back it to what it was.
Click to expand...

stick with it - and use the back button to "focus"
 
Pezza, the more you use it the more you will remember. Also you can press the shutter button without the camera hunting for autofocus, so you focus only when you want to not when the camera decides to.

I did forget about the back button when I first started and panicked when I put all 3 of my lenses on the camera and they didn't autofocus and thought my camera had died, then remembered I had set it to back button focusing....panic over....LOL :LOL:
 
Sorry if im going backwards here, been on holiday. Got a couple of pics in macro that someone asked about.


Feathers


Claws at the ready


Freckles



a quickr pickr post
 
Yardbent said:
***BEWARE*****
if you do this, make sure you checkout the compatibility on any other Nikon bodies you may have
the pre-Ai lens I bought above will mount, but JAM, on a Nikon F3 for example
Click to expand...

CORRECTION........
the pre-Ai lens will mount on a Nikon F3
on the lens mount there is a small tab at 1 o/clock
close to this, on the right, is a small chrome pin
depress the pin, move the tab UP 90 deg ie vertical, and the pre-Ai lens will mount

but only manual focus and aperture, so really Ai is the route to go

Any pre-Ai will of course mount on a D5000.....(y)
 
Pezza4u said:
. You say hold down the back button and then press the shutter...I've not been doing that though, just pressing the button once to focus and then take the photo.
Click to expand...

I'm "sure" :thinking: you focus with the back-button - then can let it go - focus stays where it is - recompose and shoot

it the object moves [animal?] you will have to re-focus
 
phil8139 said:
Sorry if im going backwards here, been on holiday. Got a couple of pics in macro that someone asked about.


Feathers


Claws at the ready


Freckles



a quickr pickr post
Click to expand...

I think that was for me Phil regarding the Tamron. I went with the Nikon 55-200 in the end but have some extra cash......:LOL:
With regards to the welding glass ive got shade 9 and 10 but wondered where they sit compared to an ND Filter? Shade 9 welding screen seems alot darker than an ND 8 Filter.
Phil
 
CJS said:
. . .Back button focus a bad idea . . . Much better to use it to lock the EV settings????
Click to expand...

Try telling the professional photographers who use this method. You can lock your Exposure by 1/2 pressing the shutter button and then focusing with the back button, and your camera is not looking to refocus everytime you press the shutter.

I know wildlife photographers who swear by back button focusing as they can focus on a subject and then wait and then take shots without waiting for the camera to refocus every time you press the shutter button.
 
GIZTO29 said:
I think that was for me Phil regarding the Tamron. I went with the Nikon 55-200 in the end but have some extra cash......:LOL:
With regards to the welding glass ive got shade 9 and 10 but wondered where they sit compared to an ND Filter? Shade 9 welding screen seems alot darker than an ND 8 Filter.
Phil
Click to expand...


ND8 filter will give you 8 stops down my shade 10 welding glass gives me about 15 stops down.

ND filters are specialised optics, welding glass just has to be roughly right, so you'll have to have a play around with yours to find out how much you'll have to adjust your shutter speed.
 
Thats fair enough, but, I still dont like BB focus 'for general walk about', I can see the point in dedicated situations. I have tried it, felt like I had 5 thumbs . . . :thinking: I can hoooooold the shutter button 1/2 pressed without accidentally firing, and if required, my lenses are fast enough to focus by my standards (motor in lens)? No, I dont have a problem . . . each to his own :shrug:

For me, BB shutter is a :thumbsdown:

CJS
 
AFC said:
I know wildlife photographers who swear by back button focusing as they can focus on a subject and then wait and then take shots without waiting for the camera to refocus every time you press the shutter button.
Click to expand...

Yep, great and part of a 'well proven, specialist technique', provided the animal being photographed knows the rules . . . 'dont move' :LOL:

CJS
 
Bigvin said:
ND8 filter will give you 8 stops down my shade 10 welding glass gives me about 15 stops down.

ND filters are specialised optics, welding glass just has to be roughly right, so you'll have to have a play around with yours to find out how much you'll have to adjust your shutter speed.
Click to expand...
Given that Vin would a ND8 be sufficient for long exposure in the daytime for snapping waterfalls for example? I know the light can change dramatically throught the day.
I was thinking of these.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....07188&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_5355wt_1137
Phil
 
GIZTO29 said:
Given that Vin would a ND8 be sufficient for long exposure in the daytime for snapping waterfalls for example? I know the light can change dramatically throught the day.
I was thinking of these.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....07188&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_5355wt_1137
Phil
Click to expand...


Yeah an ND8 would allow you to get a slightly longer exposure for say a waterfall, but you'd have to be careful with landscapes i think.

The only thing would be the length of exposure. Obviously the longer the exposure the more movement you would have in the water/clouds. If you do a quick search on flickr for ND8 and ND10 you'll see that there's quite a bit of difference between the movement achieved.

I haven't personnally used those filters that you've linked to so can't comment on quality, but then again i use welding glass.:D
 
Bigvin said:
Yeah an ND8 would allow you to get a slightly longer exposure for say a waterfall, but you'd have to be careful with landscapes i think.

The only thing would be the length of exposure. Obviously the longer the exposure the more movement you would have in the water/clouds. If you do a quick search on flickr for ND8 and ND10 you'll see that there's quite a bit of difference between the movement achieved.

I haven't personnally used those filters that you've linked to so can't comment on quality, but then again i use welding glass.:D
Click to expand...

Ok, Cheers Vin:)
 
i bought David Busch's book a few weeks ago (well actually ended up with 2 as i wanted it for my holiday and one hadn't turned up so bought another, so now got a spare :LOL:) and have to say for anyone starting out with this camera it's a good buy, it's helped me a lot in firstly understanding DSLR's and then also about all of the features the D5000 has or things it can do that i didn't know
 
I'd second the above too. I got my D500 about two weeks ago, along with the book and am about half way through it at the moment. So far it explains everything very simply and in an easy to understand way. I wouldn't treat it as a bible though as it's designed to be used alongside the manual, but it certainly adds alot and concentrates more on actually taking pictures rather than the technical aspects of the camera!
 
Hooblue said:
..... So far it explains everything very simply and in an easy to understand way. ..................
Click to expand...

tip
make a list of your settings/choices as you go through Set-Up, Shooting menu and Custom Settings menu

then press the factory re-set feature - the 2 green dotted buttons for 2 secs

THEN go through your list, and see what has been reset/changed

eg I set the Image size to Large and the reset will change this back to Normal

so after a shoot where you have changed things - you can reset the camera and then go to the menus to "modify" anything back to your preferences
 
my first impressions

are to use the Fn button allocated to White Balance

and the back button to AF.....there's a thread about this
 
Guys, i need some help. Im starting to get to grips with apeture but i believe the cameras metering helps me decide which i should be using. How does the metering work? Is the metering working constantly and thats why the exposure bar keeps changing? Do i want to try and set it so the exposure is in the centre (0)? I know that if i want to do a landscape for example i want a small apeture (high number) and for a portrait or shorter dof i would want a large apeture (small f number). Im just confused as to which low number i would or should use for example on a given landscape from mid to small (high f). How does the camera tell me? The same goes for shutter speed. I know to use a longer shutter speed to blur water for example but how do i know the best for a given shot? Im just guessing atm. I want to have more of an understanding and i believe the meter is the key.......:thinking:
Thanks in advance, Phil
 
Phil, I think you're right in terms of when to use a high f number and when to use a slow shutter speed etc. As for exactly what to use (e.g. why use f22 as opposed to f11?) well I think that comes down simply to experience and also how much dof etc you want, and knowing what each setting will do to the pick. I don't think there is a right and wrong answer (apart from maybe using a shutter speed which is correct for the focal length).

In terms of the metering, if I'm correct, when the bar is at 0, the camera is saying that the shot will be correctly exposed. However, that's not to say it will give you the result you're after. Remember you can use the exposure compensation button to change things if the camera is saying that the exposure isn't correct (i.e. if you want to use f5.6 for example but using that apeture means that the shot won't be exposed properly, you can use the exposure compensation to make adjustments so that you can still get the dof you're after). I think anyway....:thinking:
 
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