Nikon D5xxx Owners Thread

So how did you increase AND decrease both of them just on the one dial?
For example:I would have though that moving the dial left would increase the shutter speed and moving right would say increase the aperture, but then how do you decrease both values???
 
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Back button focusing . . . ? I have never been able to get my head around this one . . . :thinking: I set the back button to hold exposure, true I use CW metering, which means I can choose an area that works like a 'grey card' if I wish. Press button, it holds that exposure until I press the button again, I can then look around the area through the view finder, half press the shutter to focus . . . dont like that, try again . . . seems much more logical to me??

My insurance is shoot RAW/JPG, if I do get the exposure slightly wrong I can adjust it in RAW, however if the focus is off . . . its off! . . . no going back:shrug:

All a personal choice of course.

CJS
 
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I can see what you are saying and now I'm even more confused...lol.

To be quite honest with you I cant remember what I did or what it was set to. I have been setting so many menus to suit me and reading so many books etc and thinking about it now it would be impossible.
 
Ok, so what is back button focusing and how do I change this?

Got my bag on Friday as well, went for this one in the end and it all fits nicely with room left for my 55-200 lens when I get it.

Well, my camera is a grey import and my D40x before that was too......i had that for four years before I sold it with the the kit 18-55 and the 55-200. Nothing went wrong with any of it. The way I look at it is they are all made in the same factory in Thailand or wherever so you aren't buying an inferior product. I'm sure only a VERY tiny proportion of modern equipment goes wrong within the first two years so you would have to be very unlucky indeed. Yes, there is a risk but at this level of photography i reckon its one worth taking. For a pro tog?? Not worth risking it but for me its fine.

Neil

I've decided to go with a grey import as buying from an authorised seller will add at least £100 to the price. Just trying to decide who to use as I've read alot of negative feedback for some of them, especially that wolu digital.

Strange you should post this today as I had to take my 55-200mm kit lens back today as the autofocus stopped working, so they have ordered me another and loaned me another lens.

This lens is only 2 weeks old and already its gone tits up. I know they are not great lenses but they should last longer than a couple of weeks.

What a pain, where did you buy it from then and are they just going to replace it if it's 2 weeks old?
 
Hi CJS,

Separating the Focus System from the Exposure Metering and, more importantly, the shutter action, is brilliant. The half press on the shutter button locks the exposure.

I can now set my focus once and take as many pictures as I want because pressing the shutter button no longer changes my focus. It still meters correctly, but it doesn't refocus. Obviously if I need to refocus because something (wildlife/birds) has moved then I refocus.

Also found this on the net as well:

1) Focus and recompose- With back button focusing, photographers can quickly focus their subject, leaving it on the center AF point which is usually the most accurate, and then recompose the frame and shoot without the camera trying to re-focus with every press of the shutter. From experience, I know how annoying this can be when every shot you have to focus, recompose the shot with the shutter half-pressed, take the shot, then start over again. You could always leave the shutter half-pressed, but who wants to do that for a long series of shots? With AF moved off the shutter, you can focus one time and then take as many shots as you need while recomposed without having to worry about the camera re-focusing.

2) Timing your shots- I typically call this "prefocusing", and use it all the time when shooting sports or other action. Essentially, you can prefocus on a spot where you know action is going to happen, whether it be a batter at the plate, or a runner sliding home, or even a speaker standing at a podium. By prefocusing, you have full control to just shoot away when the decisive moment happens, rather than sitting there with your shutter half-pressed waiting and waiting. With back button AF, you can just set it where you want it, then relax until the moment comes. No worries of waiting on the camera to re-focus when pressing the shutter for that crucial shot.

3) Stopping focus when necessary- This is another that is aimed at sports and wildlife shooters. With back button AF, you can easily stop AF when something might interfere with your subject and cause your camera to try to lock focus on whatever that object may be. Just release your thumb from the button when you think that there may be an interruption (referee, tree, opposing player, etc...) that could come between you and your subject.
 
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Ok, so what is back button focusing and how do I change this?

What a pain, where did you buy it from then and are they just going to replace it if it's 2 weeks old?

1). Go into the custon menu > f controls > f2 Assign AE/L/AE/F and change to AF-ON, thats it.

2). I got mine from CameraWorld in Chelmsford they are getting me a brand new lens and have loaned me one till my new one comes in, brilliant service. At least by going to a local shop I haven't got to worry about postage and wait for god knows how long before I get things sorted, thats why I always try to buy things from shops and locally if I can.
 
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Hi CJS,

Separating the Focus System from the Exposure Metering and, more importantly, the shutter action, is brilliant. The half press on the shutter button locks the exposure.

I can now set my focus once and take as many pictures as I want because pressing the shutter button no longer changes my focus. It still meters correctly, but it doesn't refocus. Obviously if I need to refocus because something (wildlife/birds) has moved then I refocus.

Also found this on the net as well:

1) Focus and recompose- With back button focusing, photographers can quickly focus their subject, leaving it on the center AF point which is usually the most accurate, and then recompose the frame and shoot without the camera trying to re-focus with every press of the shutter. From experience, I know how annoying this can be when every shot you have to focus, recompose the shot with the shutter half-pressed, take the shot, then start over again. You could always leave the shutter half-pressed, but who wants to do that for a long series of shots? With AF moved off the shutter, you can focus one time and then take as many shots as you need while recomposed without having to worry about the camera re-focusing.

2) Timing your shots- I typically call this "prefocusing", and use it all the time when shooting sports or other action. Essentially, you can prefocus on a spot where you know action is going to happen, whether it be a batter at the plate, or a runner sliding home, or even a speaker standing at a podium. By prefocusing, you have full control to just shoot away when the decisive moment happens, rather than sitting there with your shutter half-pressed waiting and waiting. With back button AF, you can just set it where you want it, then relax until the moment comes. No worries of waiting on the camera to re-focus when pressing the shutter for that crucial shot.

3) Stopping focus when necessary- This is another that is aimed at sports and wildlife shooters. With back button AF, you can easily stop AF when something might interfere with your subject and cause your camera to try to lock focus on whatever that object may be. Just release your thumb from the button when you think that there may be an interruption (referee, tree, opposing player, etc...) that could come between you and your subject.

Fine, all the time its a 'fixed focus point', as most of my pictures are 'grab the moment' here, then there . . . street style? So, if you are walking with the kids, there going to be no fixed point there:LOL: Walking and suddenly out of the hedge a bird flies, or you see a deer running . . . its street style, grab your moment.

For the sports tog, bird watcher who puts feed in the grass, etc? Landscape togs with their tripods, perfect, I can see the point, but how many new to DSLR's or photography in general, instantly become this precise or 'focused' sorry about the pun:D

For general use, out and about, to me its an 'all thumbs way of doing things', again no pun intended.

And locking the exposure at the point of taking the picture, depends where the sun is for best exposure, hence, lock the back button on a neutral area, then put the central focus point on the subject, half press, recompose if required, bingo. It works for me using CW metering, I have never trusted matrix metering, its rarely 100% reliable, always need to adjust - 0.3 or 0.7 on all the Nikons I have had? D100, D70s, D80, D90, D5000. (thats unless there are extreme conditions of course).

I still cant get the head around 'a fixed focus point', for general picture taking. :shrug:

Just my way, CJS
 
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Its not just a fixed focus point....only if you want it to be. It acts exactly like pressing the shutter button half way except that it doesnt select the aperture/exposure at the same time. This is done when you depress the shutter button fully i.e. at the exact moment the picture is taken. Its just as quick as using the shutter button to do it all but the exposure will be more accurate.

Neil
 
Ok, so what is back button focusing and how do I change this?

Got my bag on Friday as well, went for this one in the end and it all fits nicely with room left for my 55-200 lens when I get it.



I've decided to go with a grey import as buying from an authorised seller will add at least £100 to the price. Just trying to decide who to use as I've read alot of negative feedback for some of them, especially that wolu digital.

This is where I bought my body http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-NIKON-NIK...JN&hash=item2c56731878&afsrc=1#ht_4852wt_1138

I would use them again.

Neil
 
Its not just a fixed focus point....only if you want it to be. It acts exactly like pressing the shutter button half way except that it doesnt select the aperture/exposure at the same time. This is done when you depress the shutter button fully i.e. at the exact moment the picture is taken. Its just as quick as using the shutter button to do it all but the exposure will be more accurate.

Neil

As I said, for me, 'all thumbs' . . . :puke:

Exposure will only be correct if the sun is in the right place . . . if its 'in front/to the side'? the subject could be exposed to dark . . . think about it . . .

Select exposure point (neutral area), press back button to lock (until you press bb again) . . . free to concentrate on focus and framing, take picture, cant be more simples! ;)

At the end of the day, its what suits you . . . CJS
 
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70 - 300 Tamron, shot from appx 30ft away at 70mm



shot from the same position at 300mm



Phil.
 
....I dont know how it would work changing exposure one way and speed the other way...not sure how you'd get adjustments up and down for both ie 4 functions on a two way wheel.


Neil

I have just remembered that when I used the command dial to change f/stop and sh/speed the only way to decrease either was to keep turning the com/dial i.e. imagine the dial with a scale of 1 to 10, and the dial is on 6 and you want to get to 3 then you carried on turning the dial to 7,8,9,10,1,2 then 3. So you didn't decrease as such but recycled through the numbers.
 
Does anyone know if you can change how long the info screen stays on for? I've looked through all the menus but I can't find anything and it really annoys me when it goes off after 5 seconds, especially if I'm navigating the menu system.

1). Go into the custon menu > f controls > f2 Assign AE/L/AE/F and change to AF-ON, thats it.

2). I got mine from CameraWorld in Chelmsford they are getting me a brand new lens and have loaned me one till my new one comes in, brilliant service. At least by going to a local shop I haven't got to worry about postage and wait for god knows how long before I get things sorted, thats why I always try to buy things from shops and locally if I can.

Ok I changed that so now the back button focuses and half pressing the shutter button doesn't. What are the benefits of doing this or do you just find it easier to focus using the back button?

I had a look at Camera World, there's one in the West End so next time I'm in that area I will pop in. The prices seem good as well (y)


Do you know if they have the stock in the UK or is it shipped from the US? Did they say anything about the warranty they offer if you do have problems?

70 - 300 Tamron, shot from appx 30ft away at 70mm



shot from the same position at 300mm



Phil.

Thanks for posting mate, gives me a good idea of the zoom :)
 
HI Rich,

Stock is in Swansea and they give a years 'seller' guarantee. Will be US stock for sure; My D5000 was anyway.
 
HI Rich,

Stock is in Swansea and they give a years 'seller' guarantee. Will be US stock for sure; My D5000 was anyway.

Thanks Neil, just bought the lens as I need (want!) it by the weekend as I'm going away. Do they send it recorded/insured as it only said 1st class with no option for insurance?
 
Hi Rich, in answer to your question regarding 'What are the benefits of back button focusing'. Take a look at post no. 165 that I posted for CJS, also if you still want some more info just google 'Benefits of back button focusing' and it will give you some more info.

Have fun with your new lens and don't forget to post lots of pix.
 
Hi Rich, in answer to your question regarding 'What are the benefits of back button focusing'. Take a look at post no. 165 that I posted for CJS, also if you still want some more info just google 'Benefits of back button focusing' and it will give you some more info.

Have fun with your new lens and don't forget to post lots of pix.

I must've missed that post, had a read and it makes sense to me. Thinking about it now when I pressed the back button the focus did lock on and I didn't have to refocus everytime when pressing the shutter. If I moved the camera away from the subject onto something else I just had to press it again to refocus.

I'm sure I will enjoy the lens, can't wait to get it :)
 
Well guys n girls, ive had my D5000 with 18-55mm Kit Lens for a couple of months now and am new to DSLR and photography (to this degree) and was pointed in this direction by phil8139 so will speak to you all no doubt with questions in the future. I too am after another lens and was plumping for the Tamron 70-300 but im not sure now after seeing the Nikon 55-200 VR linked a few pages back on Ebay. Hmm, the fact the Tamron has a macro feature intrigued me but will the 200 mm be enough for me? Phil, do you have and macro examples?
As i say im new to this so havnt even ventured out into the real world to take pics yet.
Thanks, Phil
 
HI Rich,

Erm, about the postage; 'afraid I cant remember exactly how they sent my camera but it didn't take long to arrive....3-4 days at most if I remember. It was well wrapped so no worries on that front.
 
Gizto...hi and good to have another D5K user here. Cant say I have done any macro stuff, closest I got was using my 70-300 at the long end on a lizard...came out rather well for a non-macro lens though....I'll try and find a pic.
 






Here you go...like I said not macro per se but as close as I can get with the Nikon 70-300VR
 
Well the closest you'll be able to focus on the 55-200 is 95cm from the subject so if its a particularly small subject, not really, no, which is I guess the whole point of macro photography. Even though a zoom may say macro on it, it probably wont be a true 1:1 macro. The shots above were taken at 300mm and then cropped to make the subject larger relative to the picture. If I had left them uncropped, there would have been an awful lot of green with a little lizard in the middle! And bear in mind these pics were taken from a distance of around 5ft from the subject. For macro proper, you need to get much closer than that.
 
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Well the closest you'll be able to focus on the 55-200 is 95cm from the subject so if its a particularly small subject, not really, no, which is I guess the whole point of macro photography. Even though a zoom may say macro on it, it probably wont be a true 1:1 macro. The shots above were taken at 300mm and then cropped to make the subject larger relative to the picture. If I had left them uncropped, there would have been an awful lot of green with a little lizard in the middle! And bear in mind these pics were taken from a distance of around 5ft from the subject. For macro proper, you need to get much closer than that.
Cool pics and thanks for the feedback, the Tamron is 1:2 but im not sure what that means compared to 1:1.
Phil
 
Ah right, that's helps a lot. Thankyou.
 
HI Rich,

Erm, about the postage; 'afraid I cant remember exactly how they sent my camera but it didn't take long to arrive....3-4 days at most if I remember. It was well wrapped so no worries on that front.

Thanks Neil, that's good to read. I had an email this morning saying my order is being processed, it will be dispactched from their UK premises and will be with me in 2-3 days so fingers crossed before I go away Friday night.

Gizto...hi and good to have another D5K user here. Cant say I have done any macro stuff, closest I got was using my 70-300 at the long end on a lizard...came out rather well for a non-macro lens though....I'll try and find a pic.

If you want to do macro have a look at this thread, it's the route I'm going to take as I can't justify spending £££ on a dedicated lens. There is also a photo thread in the macro forum with some impressive results (y)
 
Thanks Neil, that's good to read. I had an email this morning saying my order is being processed, it will be dispactched from their UK premises and will be with me in 2-3 days so fingers crossed before I go away Friday night.



If you want to do macro have a look at this thread, it's the route I'm going to take as I can't justify spending £££ on a dedicated lens. There is also a photo thread in the macro forum with some impressive results (y)
Cheers Pezza
 
My 55-200 lens arrived this morning, via special delivery. Came 5 minutes before I had to leave for work so gonna have a play tonight. Took it out of the box though for a look and it's not as heavy as I thought it would be.
 
Is that the Nikon vr one linked on here through eBay for 115?
 
Is that the Nikon vr one linked on here through eBay for 115?

Yep £115 + £10 delivery. I got the impression it would be sent first class reading the delivery section of the ad but it was sent special delivery. Obviously won't know it works ok until tonight but can't fault the service I've received :)
 
ok. new to this site and to the world of dslr's. got my d5000 about a week ago and love it!! just wish i knew what to do with it!! haha. enjoying playing around with it and snapping anything that moves (and doesn't!!)
 
Just a quick post about macro, took this with my Tammy 70-300 from around 5 feet away not a great macro shot but gives an idea. I used to do lots of macro with my bridge Fuji, but not really had chance with my D5K

Phil.

 
Hi Shadymutt, I got this book 'David Buschs Nikon D5000 Guide to Digital SLR Photography' it was recommended to me and I am glad I bought it.

.
 
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Has anyone bought a 3rd party battery, if so where from? The one that comes with the camera lasts quite a while but it'll be nice as a backup.
 
I got 2 included in the grip i bought for £30 off ebay, not had a shoot out of them yet, but going away in the morning for some well deserved sun and fun, i'll let you know how they perform. ;o)
 
Has anyone bought a 3rd party battery, if so where from? The one that comes with the camera lasts quite a while but it'll be nice as a backup.

Yup, bought two of ebay for around £15...have been brilliant, no problems at all and they also probably even a little longer than the Nikon one that came with the camera; IIRC they are 1800mAh whereas the Nikon is 1080mAh...might just be a typo on their part though:shrug:
 
Cheers guys, do you have a link for the seller you bought from? :)
 
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