Nikon D7xxx owners thread

AdamSi said:
When I purchased mine a year ago August, I wanted my Fuji bridge back as was suffering with washed out colours, ...
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I have a friend with a similar problem.
He wanted a GOOD camera : tick.
He wanted a NOT BIG camera : err, tick.
He wanted something SIMPLE : and there's the problem.
He mostly uses one of the Auto modes & Jpeg and this seems to mean (I tried) the camera limits the picture style to normal (whatever the words are) which is giving him unpunchy tourist snaps with very natural but 'meh' colours.
We tried vivid (?) on aperture mode and everything was much better, but he doesn't use that mode, he uses Auto.

Any solutions?

Edit: mode-dial is firm and hasn't been nudged accidentally, just to add to the discussion.
 
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I'm off to sunnier climbs soon with the d7000 and want a decent polarising filter to go with it, but wondered if a graduated nd filter would double up, and kill two birds with one stone?
 
I have the Hoya HD 77mm cir-pl which seems to be a great polariser - but it costs more as it is thinner and coated etc and looses less light than a standard polarizer. Would recommend a separate ND filter. I bought the Cokin P ND kit as it is cheap and if it is rubbish I will toss it. I spent my dose on my polariser as I use them a ton on my 18-200 vr when I travel. Yet to try the Cokin filters... They came out well in the latest Nikon mag test though, but like everything here, they have their staunch haters.
 
I always check the dial when I take the camera out of a bag, and periodically while shooting. It can get knocked about quite easily IME.

You can set picture controls in P,A,S, or M only. Best bet is to set P mode with auto ISO if your friend wants to leave things automated while getting the Vivid picture control. Then all he has to worry about is popping the plash open when it's needed.

Normal ND filters don't have a polarising filter - only the variable ones do IIRC. So you'd normally need both.
 
siblingchris said:
I have no issue at all with the non-locking thing, it's not a feature that has ever even crossed my mind as being useful
Infact the locking on the shutter mode wheel I find rather annoying
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I used to have some problems with this when I had an old camcorder bag and I was in a rush to grab a shot, it was a pig to get out of the bag.
Now I have the lowpro its isn't a problem.
 
coopersim said:
I'm off to sunnier climbs soon with the d7000 and want a decent polarising filter to go with it, but wondered if a graduated nd filter would double up, and kill two birds with one stone?
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As mike said some people don't like cokin but they may be more practical if you require a graduated filter, since it is easier to change the angle and how far down the shot the gradation comes

A screw in type won't give you this flexibility and as someone else pointed out on another thread recently the front of the lens rotates as it focuses so this could present an issue with getting a graduated filter positioned correctly
 
i have just got my d7k from Currys for £630 after selling my D90

I have a Tokina 12/24 f4
Nikon 1.8 50mm
Siggy 70/200 dg hsm beast
and a cheap tamron 24/135

looking at getting a tamron non vc 18/50 or maybe the 16/85

I found a great set up guide at everythingd7000 website which was very useful. Just need to understand the u1 and u2 modes
 
greenoak said:
i have just got my d7k from Currys for £630 after selling my D90

I have a Tokina 12/24 f4
Nikon 1.8 50mm
Siggy 70/200 dg hsm beast
and a cheap tamron 24/135

looking at getting a tamron non vc 18/50 or maybe the 16/85

I found a great set up guide at everythingd7000 website which was very useful. Just need to understand the u1 and u2 modes
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U1 and U2 are customisable modes that you set your own preferances in based on what you shoot to save you time altering multiple settings!
I have U1 set up for Portraits and U2 for Landscapes!
 
So you put dial to U1 / U2 instead of PASM?

Will that still allow you to change the app or shutter speeds with the dials as if in app / shutter mode?
 
Provided you were in aperture mode when usage the settings to U1, whatever mode you are in when you flick to U1 it will recall those settings and put you in aperture mode - and the same would apply for shutter speed priority if you were in that mode when you saved.

I found it confusing when I started too and didn't realise that it saved the camera mode (i.e A or S) as well as the menu settings.

I have U1 for super vivid stuff and U2 with more natural settings in Aperture priority for portraits, now if only it had U3 and U4 as well!.....
 
greenoak said:
So you put dial to U1 / U2 instead of PASM?

Will that still allow you to change the app or shutter speeds with the dials as if in app / shutter mode?
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Set the camera as you want, save the settings to U1/2 via the menus and each time you change mode or turn it on or off the settings will be preserved including the dial setting you were in ie A or S mode.. If you change settings while in U1/2 without saving, they will still be as you set them the last time round if you change mode and back again. Damned useful.

If you change settings in U1/2 and turn the camera off without saving, they will be whatever you left them at until you change mode. Ie, flick in and out of a U mode to get back to your last saved settings. Confusing at first, very useful as you start using more of the obtuse options in the Menus. Good luck
 
well after some annoyance with self diagnosed "back focusing" i decided in a semi-rage to just set the fine tuning to -20 and be done with it. Surprisingly, its been perfect on -20 and it seems to focus much nicer now. I can guarantee there's some placebo effect in there somewhere but i'm over the moon :LOL: whether its had a profound effect in reality or not remains to be seen but in my head it seems to be working better now. The camera felt like a joy today after a growing annoyance with it :)

here's a quick snap from today, focused on her right eye iirc. It seems to have hit it bang on, normally the eye is never that sharp on my portraits which is a big annoyance for me! I have normally got away with the portraits for web use etc but at 100% i know in myself that they weren't perfect. i am fully aware that it may be down to technique but things just came together today :)


Jade by andyroberts1868, on Flickr
 
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andy1868 said:
well after some annoyance with self diagnosed "back focusing" i decided in a semi-rage to just set the fine tuning to -20 and be done with it. Surprisingly, its been perfect on -20 and it seems to focus much nicer now. I can guarantee there's some placebo effect in there somewhere but i'm over the moon :LOL: whether its had a profound effect in reality or not remains to be seen but in my head it seems to be working better now. The camera felt like a joy today after a growing annoyance with it :)

here's a quick snap from today, focused on her right eye iirc. It seems to have hit it bang on, normally the eye is never that sharp on my portraits which is a big annoyance for me! I have normally got away with the portraits for web use etc but at 100% i know in myself that they weren't perfect. i am fully aware that it may be down to technique but things just came together today :)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41375694@N02/8155027018/
Jade by andyroberts1868, on Flickr
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Good for you, which lens were you using?
 
That one was a Tamron 17-50 :) interestingly the 18-105 only required about -10. My old 70-210 seemed to be fine which was good as I'm not sure how the older lenses fare up with micro adjustment (something to do with non-CPU data lenses) I'm yet to try my 50mm :)
 
andy1868 said:
That one was a Tamron 17-50 :) interestingly the 18-105 only required about -10. My old 70-210 seemed to be fine which was good as I'm not sure how the older lenses fare up with micro adjustment (something to do with non-CPU data lenses) I'm yet to try my 50mm :)
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Ironic thing is, when I had a camera that didn't have the AF fine tune option, I didn't even consider it - and some how I was happy with my shots. Now I'm always looking for more, modern life and all
 
I know what you mean, the option has been there and it's been annoying me. On my D200 it isn't there and everything seems to focus perfectly, seems funny to me :LOL:
 
This might seem like a dumb question, please bear with me


The camera has a focus-mode switch which can be turned to "af" or "m"
My kit lens also has and a/m switch (18-105 AF-S)

Does one override the other or do they work independently? I'm a bit confused.

Am I right in assuming you leave the camera set to AF and then switch the lens to M when needed and that the camera itself would on be set to M if you had a non-AF lens?

Thanks :)
 
siblingchris said:
This might seem like a dumb question, please bear with me

The camera has a focus-mode switch which can be turned to "af" or "m"
My kit lens also has and a/m switch (18-105 AF-S)

Does one override the other or do they work independently? I'm a bit confused.

Am I right in assuming you leave the camera set to AF and then switch the lens to M when needed and that the camera itself would on be set to M if you had a non-AF lens?

Thanks :)
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Camera overrides the lens. M on the camera and AF on the lens won't autofocus

Er, AF on camera and M on lens won't AF either. I always put the camera to M when I want to manual focus. Rarely
 
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hi guys

recently got myself a D7000, started playing with DSLR few yrs back when i went and bought a sony A230, then soon i moved on to a nikon D90 now a proud owner of a D7000 :cool:

still alot to learn in the DSLR world and now i have alot to learn on the D7000 also ::D

havnt really used the D7000 much yet but will be taking it on its first holiday soon see how it compare to my trusty D90

btw, how come i cant go into the classified section on this forum?

nice meeting you all :)
 
You have to be a member for a month or so and make a minimum of 25 posts or so. Frustrated me - but keeps the chaff out I suppose. Congrats on the camera - I am still plotting through Thom Hogan's book and the David Busch one.. Big jump from d40x. Need a tripod and some remote off camera flashes next.... I am forc
My myself to use primes and out my 18-200vr down - which is a challenge...
 
saltyworm said:
hi guys

recently got myself a D7000, started playing with DSLR few yrs back when i went and bought a sony A230, then soon i moved on to a nikon D90 now a proud owner of a D7000 :cool:

still alot to learn in the DSLR world and now i have alot to learn on the D7000 also ::D

havnt really used the D7000 much yet but will be taking it on its first holiday soon see how it compare to my trusty D90

btw, how come i cant go into the classified section on this forum?

nice meeting you all :)
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Hi and welcome - as a newbie ;) spend a little time reading forum rules I know it;s boring but it will save lots of time and trouble.

Jump in and enjoy your stay.

Phil.
 
Reidy36 said:
I had another look at one of these today as was in town and had the D200 with me, and wanted to see what the physical size difference was.

One thing i wasn't too keen on, is that there is no locking facility, to change from M,A,S and the other ones that have been added. Has anybody accidently had theirs change, by one way or another, shame really as the D600 has the little button lock.

Anybody not happy with swapping to it? Still unsure on this or D300/300s.
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I love my D7000 but have much to learn. I have never had a problem with the dial moving,
 
MIKEROPHONICS said:
You have to be a member for a month or so and make a minimum of 25 posts or so. Frustrated me - but keeps the chaff out I suppose. Congrats on the camera - I am still plotting through Thom Hogan's book and the David Busch one.. Big jump from d40x. Need a tripod and some remote off camera flashes next.... I am forc
My myself to use primes and out my 18-200vr down - which is a challenge...
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thanks, im a senior member over in AVFoum and the classified there is open to all.. just curious :)

i have a question ive got one of those remote shutter ML-L3 how do you set it up with the camera?
 
saltyworm said:
thanks, im a senior member over in AVFoum and the classified there is open to all.. just curious :)

i have a question ive got one of those remote shutter ML-L3 how do you set it up with the camera?
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To use the ML-L3 remote with the D7000 just set the shooting mode dial to remote!
It's the funny looking symbol that does look a bit like a remote!
You can also customise this in the menus so that you can do 1 press=mirror up second press opens shutter!
 
Joined the D7000 club after upgrading from a D5000. Jessops Interest free payments over 10 months were too good to turn down!

Got it with the kit lens, and already have the 35mm f1.8 and Tamron 70-300. Just need to get some time to myself to play with it after endless weekends painting the house and now building my little boys' new bed! Need some me time :)
 
bazfoster said:
Joined the D7000 club after upgrading from a D5000. Jessops Interest free payments over 10 months were too good to turn down!

Got it with the kit lens, and already have the 35mm f1.8 and Tamron 70-300. Just need to get some time to myself to play with it after endless weekends painting the house and now building my little boys' new bed! Need some me time :)
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Stick on the 35mm f1.8 and you will love it!;)
 
Reidy36 said:
I had another look at one of these today as was in town and had the D200 with me, and wanted to see what the physical size difference was.

One thing i wasn't too keen on, is that there is no locking facility, to change from M,A,S and the other ones that have been added. Has anybody accidently had theirs change, by one way or another, shame really as the D600 has the little button lock.

Anybody not happy with swapping to it? Still unsure on this or D300/300s.
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I did about 4weeks worth of research, the D7x is a better camera than the d300 and in many ways better than the d300s. Image quality is what is the ultimate factor for me and it challenges the high end Nikon and Cannon. This is based on science (not by me) and not hearsay. I'm glad I saved the extra £600 that I was going to spend that can now be spent on glass. Bang for buck there is no rival atm.
 
Daveyk said:
I did about 4weeks worth of research, the D7x is a better camera than the d300 and in many ways better than the d300s. Image quality is what is the ultimate factor for me and it challenges the high end Nikon and Cannon. This is based on science (not by me) and not hearsay. I'm glad I saved the extra £600 that I was going to spend that can now be spent on glass. Bang for buck there is no rival atm.
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I agree that the D7000 has some bits that are better than the D300s and I have also spent a lot of time searching on line.
Have gone for the 300s though, faster fps, weather sealing, and the controls (paranoid I would move the control accidentally) finally swayed it.
I may have made a mistake, but currently using a D200 that I have to give back, and sure I will notice the increase in IQ and af speed.
Anyway, if Nikon pull their finger out and clone the best bits of both cameras, there will be lots of happy people and I will lose less money on mine :)
 
I have £200 worth of jessops vouchers thanks to Tesco and am torn between getting the MD11 grip which is £199 in store or doi get the 35mm 1.8 lens.
I already have the Nikon 12-24 f4 lens, Sigma 17-70 2.8 and Nikon 70-200 2.8, so which would I benefit more from?
 
I just bought a geniune md11 grib and really like it only problem im finding is i keep resting palm of my hand on shutter release on grip and its sets focusing (guess it only just pressing) tonight thought the 35mm is 139 after cashback but looking at your list of lenses will you really use it ?
 
Steve2 said:
I have £200 worth of jessops vouchers thanks to Tesco and am torn between getting the MD11 grip which is £199 in store or doi get the 35mm 1.8 lens.
I already have the Nikon 12-24 f4 lens, Sigma 17-70 2.8 and Nikon 70-200 2.8, so which would I benefit more from?
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I have a grip and it changes the whole feel of the camera for the better IMO.
looking at your lens line up I'd go with the grip!(y)

There is a switch on the grip that stops the grip from working so that you don't accidentley active the focus whilst using the camera in Landscape orientation!(y)
 
Steve2 said:
I have £200 worth of jessops vouchers thanks to Tesco and am torn between getting the MD11 grip which is £199 in store or doi get the 35mm 1.8 lens.
I already have the Nikon 12-24 f4 lens, Sigma 17-70 2.8 and Nikon 70-200 2.8, so which would I benefit more from?
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How about an SB700?
 
cotty332000 said:
I have a grip and it changes the whole feel of the camera for the better IMO.
looking at your lens line up I'd go with the grip!(y)

There is a switch on the grip that stops the grip from working so that you don't accidentley active the focus whilst using the camera in Landscape orientation!(y)
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Thank you :) That will teach me to not RTFM :bonk: I was only thinking the switch seemed different from camera and went both ways me thinking "L" meant light not lock
 
Steve2 said:
I have £200 worth of jessops vouchers thanks to Tesco and am torn between getting the MD11 grip which is £199 in store or doi get the 35mm 1.8 lens.
I already have the Nikon 12-24 f4 lens, Sigma 17-70 2.8 and Nikon 70-200 2.8, so which would I benefit more from?
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I think grips are useless unless you spend all day in portrait orientation so I'd say get the 35 :p
 
Hi all - bought one of these beasties a couple of weeks ago (plus a Sigma 17-50 2.8 that the wife mustn't find out about !) and am chuffed to bits with it (both).
There are 2 things that bug me however:
1 it's easy to unknowingly move the rear command wheel with the result that the shutter speed changes if in manual mode. I guess it's only practise to stop doing it, but it's happened to me a few times
2 When not using the camera, do you guys remove the battery. I've noticed that the battery runs down when left in the camera much faster than my D5100, probably because the top panel is showing information - do you take it out or leave it in.
Other than the two above very minor comments I think it's a beatiful bit of kit and will give me lots of fun.:)
regards

NN.
 
nikon.norm said:
Hi all - bought one of these beasties a couple of weeks ago (plus a Sigma 17-50 2.8 that the wife mustn't find out about !) and am chuffed to bits with it (both).
There are 2 things that bug me however:
1 it's easy to unknowingly move the rear command wheel with the result that the shutter speed changes if in manual mode. I guess it's only practise to stop doing it, but it's happened to me a few times
2 When not using the camera, do you guys remove the battery. I've noticed that the battery runs down when left in the camera much faster than my D5100, probably because the top panel is showing information - do you take it out or leave it in.
Other than the two above very minor comments I think it's a beatiful bit of kit and will give me lots of fun.:)
regards

NN.
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How much is the battery discharging by? Always leave mind in and it lasts ages.
 
Been having a play with my new d7000 and 35mm lens it seems tobe a bit hit and miss with the focus. Anyone else having problems? Set it to single point focus af-s, 1/80s iso 1000. F1.8. Tried using the fine tune focus and was bit sharper at -4. Need to take some pics in the day in good light i think?
 
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