Nikon D810

focussing on both of my 810's is ace, the Sigma 35mm pretty much lives on one and extremely reliable and accurate. Definitely worth using the fine tune feature though, really helps get the best out of the lenses, more so than on my other Nikon bodies.
 
Blank_Canvas said:
I haven't seen a single report on focussing issues for the D810 it's very fast and accurate.

The D800 had some focusing issues, are you mixing the two up ?
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I had a D800E and was irked at the number of moving subject shots that were out of focus (I know the camera was not especially designed for that sort of work). I traded it in for a D810 and can report that the focussing is excellent. The focussing system is the same as that in the D4S.
 
which version of LR5 supports the D810?
 
I take it that the rumoured updates program called “I AM Advancing” which was due to be announced on January 19th, 2015 didn't happen? Has anyone heard anything?
 
Can someone help me please, I have just noticed that when I focus using the half press of the shutter button on my D810 "r37" is displayed in the bracket on the top info screen (bottom right )? The camera focuses and works fine, it's just I cannot remember seeing this before. However when I press the back button focus r37 is not displayed. Could someone have a look at theirs and see if they get the same message? I searched the internet and found instances of the r37 message on D300's which refers to buffering but nothing on the d810? Thanks.
 
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redhed17 said:
"r"whatever in the viewfinder normally refers to the amount of images that are available for a continuous burst from the buffer in Nikon cameras, I can't see the D810 being any different. Does it not tell you in the manual? ;)
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No I looked in the manual and there is no mention of the r codes. Do you have a d810?
 
Update, having changed the picture qualities the r code changes so it is obviously a buffer information.
 
No, I don't but have seen a lot of Nikon cameras over the years, and the viewfinders are pretty similar. Just had a look at the D810 manual, and similar to all other Nikon manuals I've seen, at the beginning it shows pictures of the body from various angles, both LCD screens, and also the viewfinder on page six and seven. One of the uses for that section of the viewfinder is for "Number of shots remaining before buffer fills", with more information on pages 105,489.
 
redhed17 said:
No, I don't but have seen a lot of Nikon cameras over the years, and the viewfinders are pretty similar. Just had a look at the D810 manual, and similar to all other Nikon manuals I've seen, at the beginning it shows pictures of the body from various angles, both LCD screens, and also the viewfinder on page six and seven. One of the uses for that section of the viewfinder is for "Number of shots remaining before buffer fills", with more information on pages 105,489.
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Thanks for that, unfortunately I went straight to page 466 thinking it was an error code. My bad.
 
Anyone seeing moire pattern on their photos? And is it relatively easy to deal with post process?
 
ricky1980 said:
Anyone seeing moire pattern on their photos? And is it relatively easy to deal with post process?
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Yes, rarely but if you're shooting the right subjects you'll get a lot of it.

It's generally easy to clear up the colour but the patterns left behind can be harder to deal with, so far the only thing I dislike about it is the raws end up taking a lot longer to work with as they seem to make Lightroom choke badly.
 
so I've finally joined the club! got my d810 last night and had a quick question for everyone....

when i focus my d810, my whole viewfinder flashes red..... as in the whole 100% viewfinder. Im not sure if this is just because its pretty dark with it being an evening but it is very distracting... is this the case for everyone? when I'm in a brighter room (and i presume daylight) you can't really see any of it other than the actual focus point, anyone able to shed some light on this?
 
ricky1980 said:
Anyone seeing moire pattern on their photos? And is it relatively easy to deal with post process?
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Never seen a trace of it using D800E and D810. I understand that editing software can remove it, but have no personal experience.
 
Hi folks

I'm joining the D810 and Nikon club for the first time. I'm hoping she will be here for the weekend but it's starting to look doubtful. I'm coming over from Canon and the 6D so can't wait to see what fun I can have with the Nikon. I've a 70-200VR ll already here and a Sigma 24-105 Art on the way and trying to decide whether to go for a 105 Micro or an UWA next.

Stevie
 
ricky1980 said:
Anyone seeing moire pattern on their photos? And is it relatively easy to deal with post process?
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D810 + any razor sharp lens along with mens suits, especially but not exclusively grey, creates lots of it. The patterns it leaves behind can be a nightmare, one of the reasons I've just switched to two D750's for weddings. I won't be selling the D810's though, still my favourite ever Nikon camera.
 
Stevies said:
Hi folks

I'm joining the D810 and Nikon club for the first time. I'm hoping she will be here for the weekend but it's starting to look doubtful. I'm coming over from Canon and the 6D so can't wait to see what fun I can have with the Nikon. I've a 70-200VR ll already here and a Sigma 24-105 Art on the way and trying to decide whether to go for a 105 Micro or an UWA next.

Stevie
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The D810 and 70-200 VRII is a formidable combination :)
 
Thanks @gramps, can't wait to try it out. Was a toss up what to do on the walk about lens. I've had used a Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 on the 6D and changed to the 24-105L and I liked that focal range. I was tempted by the Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 but the reviews off the Sigma seem to be very good.

Stevie
 
I haven't tried the Sigma 24-70 Stevie but for a walkabout lens I have the Nikon 24-120 F4 which is brilliant for IQ and versatility.
 
Sorry I confused the thread. I had the Sigma 24-70 then the Canon 24-105L on my Canon 6D. On the Nikon D810 I've ordered the new Sigma 24-105 Art as it seems to get very good reviews. Definitely a world of difference between the old Sigma 24-70 and the Canon or Nikon 24-70 models. Was tempted by the Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 but will see how I get on with the new Sigma.

Stevie
 
Well folks, the D810 has landed and since I've only had a short time to play with it I can't give a complete answer but so far it has been excellent. Feels much better built than the 6D I had before. Looking forward to testing the 3D tracking.

One question - is it possible to keep the information screen on while in shooting mode? So far I have to hit the info button if I want to look at the back screen as it disappears as soon as I focus.

Stevie
 
Have been shooting with a friends D810 for a few months now and you can't help but be impressed with it.
But given a choice I think I will stick with the 2 FX bodies I have at this moment in time :)
 
Does anyone use a grip? If so, which would you recommend, a cheap clone or nikon's?
 
I use the Nikon MB-D12 - primarily when I've using the 24-70 f2.8 and 70-200 f2.8 - I find it balances out the weight of the latter very well. I do remove it on occasion when I'm wondering around the city or towns with the 50mm on the body. It's a great quality grip if not a little pricey - personally I'm not sure I'd strap on something cheap or third party to a circa £2k camera but that's just my opinion :)
 
Ozei said:
CF cards are usually faster than SD cards (which is fairly important with a 36MP sensor). They're also tougher and less prone to data corruption.
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Hi, is there any evidence to support your statement on data corruption? Not heard this before.
 
Spudgun said:
Does anyone use a grip? If so, which would you recommend, a cheap clone or nikon's?
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I use the Nikon version w/ my D810.
I've used 3rd party ones before (two or three) and they just haven't lasted. I had one (on D7000) that caused an electrical short and very weird camera behaviors... but it didn't damage the camera. TBF, that could be partially my fault as I've been known to carry the camera by a strap attached to the grip, and attach the grip to a tripod using a heavy(ish) lens... probably not the smartest things to do, but it hasn't caused an issue w/ the Nikon grip yet.

I wouldn't go so far as to say you should avoid third party grips in general, just treat them nicer than I do...
 
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I tried a Meike grip with my 1st D810 and it just didn't work, may have been just a dud but I didn't get another :)
 
I have the Meike battery grip on my D810 when I shoot portraits, I just remove it when doing landscapes.
 
The Mike grip is often lauded as the 'best' 3rd party grips.. Yet they are regularly troublesome on various models, poor connections and battery drain. Not that they are worse than anyone else and on my D300 and 700 the Meike performs as well as my original, but they have a checkered history.
 
DavidUK said:
I use the Nikon MB-D12 - primarily when I've using the 24-70 f2.8 and 70-200 f2.8 - I find it balances out the weight of the latter very well. I do remove it on occasion when I'm wondering around the city or towns with the 50mm on the body. It's a great quality grip if not a little pricey - personally I'm not sure I'd strap on something cheap or third party to a circa £2k camera but that's just my opinion :)
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sk66 said:
I use the Nikon version w/ my D810.
I've used 3rd party ones before (two or three) and they just haven't lasted. I had one (on D7000) that caused an electrical short and very weird camera behaviors... but it didn't damage the camera. TBF, that could be partially my fault as I've been known to carry the camera by a strap attached to the grip, and attach the grip to a tripod using a heavy(ish) lens... probably not the smartest things to do, but it hasn't caused an issue w/ the Nikon grip yet.

I wouldn't go so far as to say you should avoid third party grips in general, just treat them nicer than I do...
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gramps said:
I tried a Meike grip with my 1st D810 and it just didn't work, may have been just a dud but I didn't get another :)
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popeyebx said:
I have the Meike battery grip on my D810 when I shoot portraits, I just remove it when doing landscapes.
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BlackCloud said:
The Mike grip is often lauded as the 'best' 3rd party grips.. Yet they are regularly troublesome on various models, poor connections and battery drain. Not that they are worse than anyone else and on my D300 and 700 the Meike performs as well as my original, but they have a checkered history.
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Thanks for everyones input. I'll admit to having a preference for Nikon's grip, its a shame it's so pricey. Oh well, I'll keep watching for a second hand one.
 
I have a Nikon MBD12 on one of my D810s and a Phottix (BG-D8100(M)) grip on the other. It's clear that the Phottix isn't quite the same quality as the Nikon item - Slight differences in the way it fits the camera and the feel of the controls - but it was about 1/3 the price of the Nikon grip. I would buy one again.

I really find that a grip makes an enormous difference to the way the camera handles, and of course you have the additional shutter release for portrait shooting.
 
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