OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

After suggesting an EOS 30 to someone who was thinking about trying 35mm film photography I did the usual silly thing and had a look what they were selling for on eBay... and this arrived in the post today! :whistle:

It's in lovely condition, everything seems to work and it doesn't even look like it's had a film through it (probably redundant soon after purchase due to the onset of digital!). I'm thinking of coupling this up with a 'plastic fantastic' Canon 50mm f1:1.8 STM, it'll be nice to have a lightweight autofocus SLR set-up, and that eye control focus should make it quick to use too. :)

EOS 30 by J White, on Flickr
 
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My new R3A arrived yesterday. It's in great condition and so is the 40mm f/1.4 lens I bought to go with it. I think I'm going to have to start wearing contacts when I use it though, as you have to get your face in pretty close to see the 40mm frame lines. Viewfinder is nice and bright and the x1.0 magnification means you can shoot with both eyes open, although it feels strange! If the weather holds out I'll be out at the weekend to try it out properly with some Tmax 400.

Bessa-R3A.jpg
 
Glad it arrived safely Carl, if the photos from it look as good as the camera then you should win FPOTY hands down this year! (y)
 
Carl Hall said:
My new R3A arrived yesterday. It's in great condition and so is the 40mm f/1.4 lens I bought to go with it. I think I'm going to have to start wearing contacts when I use it though, as you have to get your face in pretty close to see the 40mm frame lines. Viewfinder is nice and bright and the x1.0 magnification means you can shoot with both eyes open, although it feels strange! If the weather holds out I'll be out at the weekend to try it out properly with some Tmax 400.

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I might be wrong but isn't it possible to get dioptric adjustment eyepiece attachments so that you can use it without wearing glasses? Would that be any good or are you planning to shoot with both eyes open?
 
Carl Hall said:
I think I'm going to have to start wearing contacts when I use it though, as you have to get your face in pretty close to see the 40mm frame lines。
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Although I ordinarily prefer to wear contacts when using my cameras, I can get away with glasses using my SLRs and TLRs if I need to, which primarily feature waist level finders. Rangefinders, on the other hand, I've found nearly impossible to use without contacts. Certainly my Plaubel Makina 67 is really difficult to compose any kind of picture while wearing my glasses.

At any rate, I'm sure you'll figure it out and I hope you enjoy your camera.
 
Mr Badger said:
After suggesting an EOS 30 to someone who was thinking about trying 35mm film photography I did the usual silly thing and had a look what they were selling for on eBay... and this arrived in the post today! :whistle:

It's in lovely condition, everything seems to work and it doesn't even look like it's had a film through it (probably redundant soon after purchase due to the onset of digital!). I'm thinking of coupling this up with a 'plastic fantastic' Canon 50mm f1:1.8 STM, it'll be nice to have a lightweight autofocus SLR set-up, and that eye control focus should make it quick to use too. :)

EOS 30 by J White, on Flickr
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I’ve had 3 EOS 30’s and think they’re excellent AF cameras. I’ve always found the eye AF surprisingly accurate and tracking is better than I get with my Sony A7 [emoji3]

This is actually my laptop wallpaper at the moment and was shot with a nifty 50;

16429073401_6fa254fc1d_o.jpg
 
mdjchat said:
I might be wrong but isn't it possible to get dioptric adjustment eyepiece attachments so that you can use it without wearing glasses? Would that be any good or are you planning to shoot with both eyes open?
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I did consider this, but the idea of moving my glasses to the top of my head each time I take a photo sounded like a lot more effort than just wearing contacts! Unless I'm missing something... I've always wondered what people actually do when they use diopters, unless you're meant to just not wear glasses at all and walk around blind :LOL:
 
Carl Hall said:
I did consider this, but the idea of moving my glasses to the top of my head each time I take a photo sounded like a lot more effort than just wearing contacts! Unless I'm missing something... I've always wondered what people actually do when they use diopters, unless you're meant to just not wear glasses at all and walk around blind :LOL:
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I use this same kit and wear glasses,I have not found it to be a problem,other than cleaning my glasses more often.:)
 
Carl Hall said:
when they use diopters
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A dioptre isn't a thing, it's a measurement - dioptre (British) (US: diopter) is a unit for measuring the power of a lens and is the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens in metres.

What can be added to a camera is an eyepiece correction lens, which has a given power stated as its dioptre. They can be handy if you wear reading glasses and don't want to walk around wearing them ...

 
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Carl Hall said:
My new R3A arrived yesterday. It's in great condition and so is the 40mm f/1.4 lens I bought to go with it. I think I'm going to have to start wearing contacts when I use it though, as you have to get your face in pretty close to see the 40mm frame lines. Viewfinder is nice and bright and the x1.0 magnification means you can shoot with both eyes open, although it feels strange! If the weather holds out I'll be out at the weekend to try it out properly with some Tmax 400.

View attachment 119354
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Wait until the 15mm and 21mm get a hold of you.:)
 
Carl Hall said:
I've always wondered what people actually do when they use diopters, unless you're meant to just not wear glasses at all and walk around blind :LOL:
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In my case, I wear contact lenses, but being of a certain age need reading glasses, particularly when I'm trying to focus on a ground glass only a few inches (say 6) from my eyes. I have a very strong pair of reading glasses for the job, and have a cord around the ear pieces (can't recall the technical term for the sidebars - age, again, I expect :LOL:) so I can drop them when I've finished as they are so strong I can't make out my own feet when I'm wearing them. I assume that this method would work in reverse if you normally wear spectacles, but want to remove them briefly to use the camera.
 
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stevelmx5 said:
I’ve had 3 EOS 30’s and think they’re excellent AF cameras. I’ve always found the eye AF surprisingly accurate and tracking is better than I get with my Sony A7 [emoji3]
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I'm glad you think the 30 is ok, I've been a fan of eye control focus since I bought my EOS-3 about 18 years ago, I find it works well if time is taken to calibrate it properly first, and you don't take your eye off the point you want to focus on until you've half pressed the shutter button and acquired focus. I think this is probably where some of the people who didn't get on well with ECF probably went wrong. Some spectacle wearers apparently had issues with it too, as I believe wearing eye glasses could upset the system (to tie in to the other sub-thread!). However, it's easy to switch the ECF feature off as it worked in addition to, rather than instead of, the conventional focus system (auto or manually selectable focus points).

The EOS 30 only has 7 ECF focus points rather than the 45 the EOS-3 has (incredible for its time), but then again, the 30 is 200g lighter, around 1.5cm smaller in height and width, and cost about half the money when new, so it's horses for courses. The 7 points on the 30 don't seem to light up as brightly as they do on the 3 from what I've seen so far, so it's not quite as easy to see them in certain lights. Other than that it seems a fantastic camera for the money it cost me... less than the price of an 'basic' ticket to watch two premier league football matches, and I've enjoyed my camera for a lot longer than 180 minutes already! (y)
 
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Mr Badger said:
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I'm glad you think the 30 is ok, I've been a fan of eye control focus since I bought my EOS-3 about 18 years ago, I find it works well if time is taken to calibrate it properly first, and you don't take your eye off the point you want to focus on until you've half pressed the shutter button and acquired focus. I think this is probably where some of the people who didn't get on well with ECF probably went wrong. Some spectacle wearers apparently had issues with it too, as I believe wearing eye glasses could upset the system (to tie in to the other sub-thread!). However, it's easy to switch the ECF feature off as it worked in addition to, rather than instead of, the conventional focus system (auto or manually selectable focus points).

The EOS 30 only has 7 ECF focus points rather than the 45 the EOS-3 has (incredible for its time), but then again, the 30 is 200g lighter, around 1.5cm smaller in height and width, and cost about half the money when new, so it's horses for courses. The 7 points on the 30 don't seem to light up as brightly as they do on the 3 from what I've seen so far, so it's not quite as easy to see them in certain lights. Other than that it seems a fantastic camera for the money it cost me... less than the price of an 'basic' ticket to watch two premier league football matches, and I've enjoyed my camera for a lot longer than 180 minutes already! (y)
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Interesting to compare EOS30\EOS3\EOS1 with the Nikon F4...just saying AAMOI as my EOS 300V and Nikon F90x are very good, but wouldn't mind playing with the EOS1\EOS3 or Nikon F4 if I can find one at a bargain price.
 
The EOS-3 out-specced the EOS1 when it was launched, the only thing it lacked was a full metal jacket, but that only adds to the weight and unless you're chucking the camera around in a press ruck every day then I don't think the difference is really worthwhile. Features and performance wise, the EOS 30 was reputed to be on a par with the Nikon F80 if that helps you compare. I've never been into Nikon so it doesn't mean much to me! If you normally wear glasses to use your camera you might have more chance of getting on with the ECF on the 30 as it's only got 7 points to focus on, so might track more easily.
 
I would think the C stands for coated. Makers stopped designating their lenses as coated eventually as all lenses were.
 
john.margetts said:
I would think the C stands for coated. Makers stopped designating their lenses as coated eventually as all lenses were.
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Could be..I was just wondering why Dave called it a portrait lens unless it was different to other teles.
 
excalibur2 said:
Could be..I was just wondering why Dave called it a portrait lens unless it was different to other teles.
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Just due to the focal length, and my intended use for it.
 
Postman has just delivered a Zuiko 65-200 F4 that someone put on ebay for £25 buy it now.

Already have a 200mm F4 but at that price thought why not. Lens looks in good condition.
 
Today's charity shop buys, a Zenit 3M with m39 Helios 44 and a Pentax MG with Pentax-M 50mm f2.0. Unfortunately the Helios won't focus, I guess it's gummed up and the Pentax lens has fungus. Both cameras are working though the MG has a jammed battery door.

Oh yes, after all of the recent discussion about the EOS 30, I have one on the way. It's coming from eBay and should arrive by the 8th.IMG_20180203_184939.jpgIMG_20180203_184825.jpg
 
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Manwithacam said:
Today's charity shop buys, a Zenit 3M with m39 Helios 44 and a Pentax MG with Pentax-M 50mm f2.0. Unfortunately the Helios won't focus, I guess it's gummed up and the Pentax lens has fungus. Both cameras are working though the MG has a jammed battery door.
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The Helios lens should be straight forward to ungum. You can get to the focus helical from the mount end and clean the threads with naphtha without getting g either the gum or naphtha on the glass.
 
john.margetts said:
The Helios lens should be straight forward to ungum. You can get to the focus helical from the mount end and clean the threads with naphtha without getting g either the gum or naphtha on the glass.
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I'll give this a try tomorrow, I have some lighter fluid somewhere. Thanks.
 
A Taron Auto EE fixed lens rangefinder camera from Japan. Looks to be very well made - mostly metal - and works well apart from the light meter which I cannot get to work. I am running without a manual at the moment so I might be missing a step in using the meter. The design is 'standard' Japanese rangefinder design much the same as my Yashica Minister and Petri cameras so not an imaginative design but eminently usable. Shutter is a Citizen MVL so should be fine - I have yet to have problems with these.
taron.jpg
 
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Manwithacam said:
What would you lubricate with, the only stuff on eBay is in Japan, America or the Ukraine? Has anyone tried the Ciatim 221 from the Ukraine?
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I am not any sort of expert but I would use clock oil diluted with naphtha. Diluting it means you can apply a lot less and that is further reduced when the naphtha evaporates.
 
john.margetts said:
I am not any sort of expert but I would use clock oil diluted with naphtha. Diluting it means you can apply a lot less and that is further reduced when the naphtha evaporates.
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I guess you can control the amount you apply if you buy the syringe pen.
 
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