OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

Fancied one of these for a while so delighted to pick up a recently CLA'd Canonet QL17.

I knew about the staining which is apparently glue residue. Any suggestions for removing it without scratching the metal beneath? I've had a little go with rubbing alcohol which doesn't seem to have made a difference.

Howden's sell Wonder Wipes which remove pretty much everything that isn't meant to be where it is, without damaging anything.
I use it to remove silicone, glue, adhesive, tar, and scuff marks in my job. They cost about £3 a tub.
 
That's a great buy. Think Vuescan will work with this if the original software is out of date for your o/s.
 
Howden's sell Wonder Wipes which remove pretty much everything that isn't meant to be where it is, without damaging anything.
I use it to remove silicone, glue, adhesive, tar, and scuff marks in my job. They cost about £3 a tub.

Great, thanks Ken, will have a go with that.
 
Howden's sell Wonder Wipes which remove pretty much everything that isn't meant to be where it is, without damaging anything.
I use it to remove silicone, glue, adhesive, tar, and scuff marks in my job. They cost about £3 a tub.

Do you think they will work to remove old light seals from camera backs and bodies without damaging the paint? It's a pain trying to remove all of the sticky bits of a light seal thats disintegrated.
 
Lighter fluid works very well to remove sticky seals without damaging paint/chrome :)

As does isopropyl alcohol. It also cleans up sticky camera bodies nicely too.

Thanks - I've used both, and am currently cleaning up a back with isopropyl alcohol. Was just wondering if the wipes were a good alternative instead of using bits of soaked kitchen roll to get into the narrow grooves.
 
Do you think they will work to remove old light seals from camera backs and bodies without damaging the paint? It's a pain trying to remove all of the sticky bits of a light seal thats disintegrated.
They will probably remove the gunk, they don't affect painted surfaces.
I use vodka :)
 
I should mention that I asked in my local chemists and they would have to order in a half litre at some stupid price.
I don't drink spirits and the vodka has been there for about 30 years.
 
That's a great buy. Think Vuescan will work with this if the original software is out of date for your o/s.
The Vuescan idea was a winner, I only had to install the trial for it to install the driver. Vuescan doesn't give as good results as the scan dual 4 utility.

I did do a new installation of Windows 7 on another laptop which I will use for scanning.
 
These were bought last year but I haven't bought anything of note since anyway:

A complete Linhof Technika kit (not seen are a Rodenstock Sironar-N 210mm lens, 6x9 roll film back and a reflex viewfinder). Awesome camera, it's a rangefinder too so I can have a go at some large format street photography (semi-serious about that):

Vg4KHE1.jpg


I've also been building a darkroom since mid-Oct last year, so I bought some enlargers:

jUKYF9M.jpg


1.8x Leica Focomat V35 enlargers - I originally bought one complete enlarger (with a bunch of trays for processing the prints), saw another a few weeks later but was missing the filters/lens, picked it up for free and moved the filters and lens from the first into the second one - I now have a spare chassis should anything go wrong with the main one. Really wonderful design, very solidly built. Came with a Leitz timer/exposure meter as well which was nice.

U2mg2yM.jpg


An LPL C7700 for my 6x6/6x7 negs. It's a decent enlarger, not as nice to use as the Leica but it does the job (if only Leitz made a Focomat V69). This one was also bundled a really precise Durst digital timer as well.

Everything manages to fit in a storage cabinet under the stairs! Sent out a few prints for Xmas which were pretty well received.
 
Love that V35. It still manages to look futuristic!

I only have an old Durst 35mm enlarger. Would like something like the LPL for my MF negs.
 
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Those enlargers are certainly a far cry from the slightly rusty old Gnome Beta II that I used to own! I hope you really enjoy using them, it's good to know someone is keeping the old arts and skills alive.
 
Love that V35. It still manages to look futuristic!

I only have an old Durst 35mm enlarger. Would like something like the LPL for my MF negs.

Yup it's got quite a 2001: A Space Odyssey vibe to it. It's really simple/easy to use and I find that I rarely have to refocus it when I'm changing negs/print size (of course, I always check anyway) the autofocus seems to track well throughout the enlargement range and the carriers keep the negs very flat.

The LPL is great as well, not as solidly built as the V35 but it has bellows movements to correct perspective and of course it does MF which I shoot a lot of.

Maybe next year I'll end up with more space and a DeVere 504, which is the enlarger I first learned to print with. I can only imagine how glorious 5x4 on fiber would look.

Those enlargers are certainly a far cry from the slightly rusty old Gnome Beta II that I used to own! I hope you really enjoy using them, it's good to know someone is keeping the old arts and skills alive.

It beats being hunched over a keyboard for hours! There's quite a resurgence of people doing wet printing here in London which makes me happy.
 
Just a stock image, mine came with a 80mm 5.6 Nikkor (the later version), a universal carrier and the optional anti-newton glass.
coolz

I dumped the universal because of the glass.
Actually, it came with only one piece of glass, and I thought at the time what's the point of that, so I bought another piece to make the sandwich...lol
Anyway, it was dust city, so I got a glass less carrier.
I've been thinking of using the universal for slide copying, I dunno why, its not like the dust has just vanished or anything....duh
 
coolz

I dumped the universal because of the glass.
Actually, it came with only one piece of glass, and I thought at the time what's the point of that, so I bought another piece to make the sandwich...lol
Anyway, it was dust city, so I got a glass less carrier.
I've been thinking of using the universal for slide copying, I dunno why, its not like the dust has just vanished or anything....duh

Yeah I have to be really careful about dust but so far I haven’t noticed a big difference over glassless carriers since my negs are pretty flat anyway. The annoying thing about the universal carrier is that it crops the negs by a mm or so, it’s more like 54x68 at the most instead of 56x70 with space to spare. Not a huge issue but sometimes I want to print the rebate as well.
 
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Bloomin' heck - this film photography is costing a fortune! After a very frustrating evening using digital and Photoshop decided to pack digital photography in and concentrate on film alone so I have purchased this:


s-l1600
by Fraser Euan White on Talk Photography


s-l1600 (7)
by Fraser Euan White on Talk Photography


s-l1600 (6)
by Fraser Euan White on Talk Photography

mines a latte.......no sugar pls..:)


Yeah I have to be really careful about dust but so far I haven’t noticed a big difference over glassless carriers since my negs are pretty flat anyway. The annoying thing about the universal carrier is that it crops the negs by a mm or so, it’s more like 54x68 at the most instead of 56x70 with space to spare. Not a huge issue but sometimes I want to print the rebate as well.

I know, and they're not even cheap, the blades in mine don't slide straight automatically either, you can get them straight with a bit of faffing but...meh....all in all, that carrier is a bit naff, the glass less is miles less aggro if your negs are flat.
 
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Nothing silly about those, I have both of them too. It's only silly if you pay lots of money for them and they don't work.
It's only silly if you pay a lot of money for them, they don't work and you do not like them. My Tenax I doesn't work but I would not part with it.
 
It is an FM yes. I bought it from West Yorkshire Cameras so it wasn't a bargain grab from eBay but I wanted a mechanical slr for a while and is fit the bill perfectly. Plenty of nice Nikon glass about too, though that isn't cheap either!

The Olympus is fun to use, it easily goes in a pocket and I've been trying my hand at some Street stuff with it as you obviously don't have to think about anything but the shot.

Just need to finish the rolls so I can try out my developing kit.
 
It is an FM yes. I bought it from West Yorkshire Cameras so it wasn't a bargain grab from eBay but I wanted a mechanical slr for a while and is fit the bill perfectly. Plenty of nice Nikon glass about too, though that isn't cheap either!

The Olympus is fun to use, it easily goes in a pocket and I've been trying my hand at some Street stuff with it as you obviously don't have to think about anything but the shot.

Just need to finish the rolls so I can try out my developing kit.
I sold my previous Nikon FM to them and regretted it the next day. I eventually bought another but I had to check the only picture I have of my first. I've also included a picture of its replacement with the Series E lens.Nikon_FM.jpgIMAG0208_1.jpg
 
I picked up my EOS 3. On the way there I bought the Canon 28-200mm f3.5-5.6 it's wearing. I took a fresh battery to test it and it's already locked and loaded and ready to go.IMG_20180228_132752.jpg
 
I picked up this Yashica Mat LM last Thursday from West Yorkshire Cameras in Leeds for £39 and got a roll of Ilford HP5 Plus 120 to put through it to check it's all in working order. I sent the film off for processing a couple of days ago and can't wait to see the results. There are a few scuffs on the camera and the winder can be a bit stiff, also the light meter can be a little temperamental but tends to just need a tap to get it working. For the price though I couldn't have asked for much more. Fingers crossed the images are ok
Yashica 1 by Craig Tillotson, on Flickr
Yashica 2 by Craig Tillotson, on Flickr
 
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You should get some good results from that Yashinon lens. Certain models can be a little bit prone to lens flare (veiling rather than light spots) though so perhaps best to keep the sun behind you as much as possible. Also, never operate the self timer unless the flash sync lever is set to the X position, otherwise the shutter will jam permanently - expensive repair time! To be honest, it's probably safest to never use the self timer just in case! Hope this is useful.
 
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Thanks for the advice
 
It is generally better not to use delay timers on any old camera as they are the weakest part of the shutter mechanism.
 
Ordered a continuous lighting system rather than trying to use a speedlight with the LF camera, 45w energy saver probably the biggest bulb I've ever seen this side of an office! Irritatingly the bulb holder doesn't work with my softbox. The holder screws onto the light stand and has a slot for an umbrella whilst the softbox screws on to the light stand and has a bracket for a speedlight.
 
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