Official Olympus E-PL5 thread. (other m4/3 are welcome too!) Show off your pics!

Hmm, never had that problem apart from when I have to change the WB (preset) if on the wrong choice (tungsten instead of fluorescent for instance) then the screen does look red-ish.
Changing WB fixes that, but I rarely use the rear screen since I got the EVF 3. I would strongly recommend getting one, it changes the usefulness of the camera immensely!
I cannot find how to make any adjustments to the rear screen any where in the manual!

But then you loose the use of the flash, which is so useful at times.

I find having the flash on the camera at all times is good.

but then this is a limitation of the camera...
 
Hardly ever found I need to use the flash, just use a faster lens.
 
Hardly ever found I need to use the flash, just use a faster lens.

Not sure what you mean by a faster lens, but am taking you at your word, and have ordered an eyepiece. That may well assist me in my manual focusing problem. Thanks for that advice.

Flash is largely used for either contra jour photos, and of course indoors when unable to keep subjects still!!

Mj
 
Not sure what you mean by a faster lens, but am taking you at your word, and have ordered an eyepiece. That may well assist me in my manual focusing problem. Thanks for that advice.

Flash is largely used for either contra jour photos, and of course indoors when unable to keep subjects still!!

Mj
No problem Mark, I'm sure you will like it, if not and you decide to sell it on, you will lose very little.
Which one did you go for (EVF1 2 or 3?)
The kit lens is rated f3.5, the 45mm is f1.7, the lower the f number, the 'faster' the lens, ie lets more light in so better in low light conditions.
Hope this helps.
 
One thing I really liked is having an articulated screen, never used one before. I tend to shhot quite a lot from low angles and it was great not having try to get so low to see the screen.
 
No problem Mark, I'm sure you will like it, if not and you decide to sell it on, you will lose very little.
Which one did you go for (EVF1 2 or 3?)
The kit lens is rated f3.5, the 45mm is f1.7, the lower the f number, the 'faster' the lens, ie lets more light in so better in low light conditions.
Hope this helps.


Yes thanks.

Bought the EVF-3. Just waiting for it to arrive now!!

Also the articulated screen is a real bonus, did not appreciate it until I stared using it.

Looking at prime lens's, but am unsure whether they are worth the extra over the kit zooms (14-45mm). All old cameras came with fixed lens's, now we appreciate the zooms. Only to be told the fixed ones are better. Hey ho, it all comes round again!....

Mj
 
Well, the kit lenses are always a compromise, to give a range of shooting options. The primes are more for a given type of photography, ie lanscape, portrait, macro, so generally they of better quality both build and lens elements. This equates to sharper, more colourful images. Most camera users would agree they are well worth the extra. All in my opinion of course!
I have the evf3 same as you will have, one thing though, it is not in colour, but it is brighter than the image, and sun glare doesn't affect it. It takes a little getting used to, but I would not be without one now.
 
Having just received and used my VF3, it is good for focusing on afar objects such as stars eta, when auto focus don't work.

Wontolla says the image is b/w, but only in certain light conditions. Colour comes thru in normal lighting conditions.

Unsure what the other models are like, only know I needed the eye piece for Astro.

The other plus is that you don't need specs to see the screen. The eye piece is the same as old SLR's, you can adjust the dioptre to suit your eyes.

Depending on your wants needs, the eye piece is not essential. But good to have in the bag.....

Mj
 
You've got a choice of three - VF-2, VF-3 or VF-4 (the VF-1 is an optical finder). Their resolutions are respectively 1.4Mp, 0.9Mp and 2.36Mp, and the prices reflect that. The VF-4 is the newest and clearly the best, but also the most expensive. I opted for the middle ground and use a VF-2 with my EPL5 and it works fine. I accidentally bought two (it's a long story!) so if you happened to put a wanted thread on the sales forums I might reply... ;)
 
If I was to look out for a viewfinder what one should I got for?
Go for the 3. It's better by far than the 1 or 2 just for the lock to stop it falling off. The 4 is quite a bit more expensive than the 3 and has options you cant use on the e-pl5.
 
There's a used VF-3 on the LCE website at the moment for £89. I preferred the VF-2 for the higher res, and I've never had a problem with it falling off.
 
Nice shots.

Have you ever come across a 2X converter for the micro 4/3rds?

Mj
 
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Nice shots.

Have you ever come across a 2X converter for the micro 4/3rds?

Mj
There is one, but it only works on the new 40-150mm pro lens. That makes it very expensive!
I just use the 2x digital zoom in camera, not ideal, but works quite well.
 
Can anyone who has owned the E-PL5 and the Fuji X100 or XPro1 please comment on how image quality compares, particularly when using primes on the E-PL5. Thanks.
 
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Nice shots.

Have you ever come across a 2X converter for the micro 4/3rds?

Mj

There is one, but it only works on the new 40-150mm pro lens. That makes it very expensive!
I just use the 2x digital zoom in camera, not ideal, but works quite well.
Just to clarify, the converter that came out with the 40-150 f2.8, is in fact a 1.4x converter. There is no 2x as yet. Hope that helps!
 
Can anyone who has owned the E-PL5 and the Fuji X100 or XPro1 please comment on how image quality compares, particularly when using primes on the E-PL5. Thanks.
I have the E-PL5 and an X100 but I've never directly compared the image quality to be honest. Both are good cameras although very different in their approach, and both are capable of excellent results. In general you'd expect the APS-C sensor of the Fuji range to be superior but in practical terms I've not noticed that, and often prefer the slightly more saturated and sharper OOC jpegs of the Oly.
 
I have the E-PL5 and an X100 but I've never directly compared the image quality to be honest. Both are good cameras although very different in their approach, and both are capable of excellent results. In general you'd expect the APS-C sensor of the Fuji range to be superior but in practical terms I've not noticed that, and often prefer the slightly more saturated and sharper OOC jpegs of the Oly.
Yeh, spot on that, I dont have the x100, never have, but have a mate who has. We both use a samsung galaxy tab 7inch to show the pics, and to be honest, I prefer my shots to his, and so does he! especially the ones in black and white.
Cant comment on the other xpro1, know very little about it.
 
Thanks gents. I've just picked one up with the twin lens kit for £299 at Currys. Couldn't resist at that price. I'll be picking up the 45mm in a week or so. I'm sure I'll be happy with the results having looked at the photos in this thread :)
 
Yeh, spot on that, I dont have the x100, never have, but have a mate who has. We both use a samsung galaxy tab 7inch to show the pics, and to be honest, I prefer my shots to his, and so does he! especially the ones in black and white.
Cant comment on the other xpro1, know very little about it.
Can anyone who has owned the E-PL5 and the Fuji X100 or XPro1 please comment on how image quality compares, particularly when using primes on the E-PL5. Thanks.

had both and the oly with the 45mm 1.8 was sharper but the fuji x100 looked more film like,colours probably slightly nicer too,at least to these old eyes
 
Thanks gents. I've just picked one up with the twin lens kit for £299 at Currys. Couldn't resist at that price. I'll be picking up the 45mm in a week or so. I'm sure I'll be happy with the results having looked at the photos in this thread :)
Thats not a bad price!
 
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One from yesterday E-P5 & 45mm f1.8 would not be without the 45mm.
160009405.jpg
 
I'm quite surprised with how skin tones come out on the standard settings even with 'Keep Warm Colour' switched off. What do others do to tone down the overly pink/red tone in portraits?
 
I'm quite surprised with how skin tones come out on the standard settings even with 'Keep Warm Colour' switched off. What do others do to tone down the overly pink/red tone in portraits?
If you shoot raw lower the colour temp slightly and reduce the vibrance setting slightly as well.

Taken with the 75mm indoors daylight
157249990.jpg
 
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Try to use the EPL 5 for astro photography.

The little blue LED that shows whether the camera is switched on or not is blinding at night.

No good when you want night vision for stars etc.

Will have to put some tape over it....
 
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