Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Am thinking of selling my 75-300ii and 35-200 f2.8 and getting the 40-150 pro + TC instead

Good idea / bad idea ?
the pro does look great, but its a lump from what I've seen-mind you I've never checked the specs to confirm that
 
it weighs about 25g less than my p35-100 f2.8 and 75-100ii put together so on one hand, its weighty but on the other its fractionally lighter than the 2 lens combined so i'd end up with the same weight pretty much and a little extra room in my bag.
 
Am thinking of selling my 75-300ii and 35-200 f2.8 and getting the 40-150 pro + TC instead

Good idea / bad idea ?

Definitely a good idea............it's a brilliant lens!
 
Well yesterday my Oly 17mm F1.8 arrived.

Wow, I love it. It feed so nice to use and is my prefect focal length to boot.

I've already decided the next gig I shoot I'm going to take the OMD to use alongside my 5D3 and see how I get on.
 
Just received my EM10 MK2 with the 14-42mm & 40-150mm kit from Jessops.


Was originally looking at the Sony a6000 but after seeing the complaints about the kit lens and the limited amount of lenses I decided to go for the Olympus because I got the above for the same price as the sony with the kit lens!


In work so took it out of the box for a quick look, build quality looks and feel great.


I look forward to getting some images on this!


Any tips and tricks for this camera?
 
Just received my EM10 MK2 with the 14-42mm & 40-150mm kit from Jessops.


Was originally looking at the Sony a6000 but after seeing the complaints about the kit lens and the limited amount of lenses I decided to go for the Olympus because I got the above for the same price as the sony with the kit lens!


In work so took it out of the box for a quick look, build quality looks and feel great.


I look forward to getting some images on this!


Any tips and tricks for this camera?
yep spend a load of time learning the menus, oly set them up in a way than isn't that intuitive so its worth playing in front of the telly so you remember your way around while using in anger!
 
There is an excellent detailed youtube video with tips for setting up the EM5ii. Much of which will apply to the EM10. The link is on this thread somwhere.

Make and keep a list of each change to the basic settings.
Write down the content of each Myset you create.
Write down how to activate any special mode you need, but only use occasionally, like timelapse. So you can quickly activate it when required.

Edit. Found it.
 
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Well yesterday my Oly 17mm F1.8 arrived.

Wow, I love it. It feed so nice to use and is my prefect focal length to boot.

I've already decided the next gig I shoot I'm going to take the OMD to use alongside my 5D3 and see how I get on.
I love this lens for gigs - just for hobby photography. I've also been pleased with the quality of video through it. I can't believe how well the em5ii copes with the sound too - even quite near the speaker cabs when I'm wearing ear plugs!
 
There is an excellent detailed youtube video with tips for setting up the EM5ii. Much of which will apply to the EM10. The link is on this thread somwhere.

Make and keep a list of each change to the basic settings.
Write down the content of each Myset you create.
Write down how to activate any special mode you need, but only use occasionally, like timelapse. So you can quickly activate it when required.

Edit. Found it.

Thanks for that will take a look.

One thing i spotted when i was trying out the remote app on my phone was the the option after Bulb called Live Time! That looks like it will come in very handy when doing long exposures using an ND filter for example. No more guessing at the exposure you can just watch the image appear.
 
Time to start researching some lenses.

The kit lenses aren't that fast so what fast prime lens would you recommend that's a reasonable price? I was think something around the 17-20mm mark might make a good fast general purpose lens.
 
Anyone using Yongnou triggers with a EM5 mark II, if so which one, can't get my YN622's work?

And more generally I notice that the little flash that comes with the EM5 does not appear use the center pin and it seems weird that the centre pin won't just fire any old flash. Is there a setting or something that I am missing?
 
Time to start researching some lenses.

The kit lenses aren't that fast so what fast prime lens would you recommend that's a reasonable price? I was think something around the 17-20mm mark might make a good fast general purpose lens.

The panasonic 20mm F1.7 are superb little lenses for a great price, used they go for 90-120 depending on version and condition. Sometimes cheaper.
I am in love with my Olympus 17mm f1.8, it is an absolute joy to use. Not much in it focal length wise, but much nicer to handle than the panasonic 20. But at a price premium.
I upgraded from the Olympus 17mm F2.8 which is the pancake - it's tiny but still remarkably good. Just doesn't let quite as much light in.
 
The panasonic 20mm F1.7 are superb little lenses for a great price, used they go for 90-120 depending on version and condition. Sometimes cheaper.
I am in love with my Olympus 17mm f1.8, it is an absolute joy to use. Not much in it focal length wise, but much nicer to handle than the panasonic 20. But at a price premium.
I upgraded from the Olympus 17mm F2.8 which is the pancake - it's tiny but still remarkably good. Just doesn't let quite as much light in.

Thanks think I will keep an eye out for hopefully a bargain. Also interested in a macro lens
 
The 60mm macro is both awesome and tiresome - to get its best you'll need good lighting but when you get it right :love: I sold mine due to frustration and lack of use - the DoF was minuscule and I personally didn't get on with it but it's damn sharp
 
Don't know, sorry. Don't get me wrong, the lens is stunning - I just didn't have the set up to get the most from it ( personally, I got better results with a 70-300 Nikon and raynox + flash ).

I needed more time and more light in all honesty so perhaps I'm being unfair
 
The 60mm macro is both awesome and tiresome - to get its best you'll need good lighting but when you get it right :love: I sold mine due to frustration and lack of use - the DoF was minuscule and I personally didn't get on with it but it's damn sharp

It's certainly a lens that needs some practise, I'm quite enjoying learning how to get the most out of mine.
Once I got over the 'must get as close as possible' phase then my results started to improve massively.
My only gripe is MF is sooooo slooooow
 
The 60mm macro is both awesome and tiresome - to get its best you'll need good lighting but when you get it right :love: I sold mine due to frustration and lack of use - the DoF was minuscule and I personally didn't get on with it but it's damn sharp

Ah rubbish does that mean the other four thirds macro lenses are the same?

All macro lenses have miniscule Dof the 75-300mm with the Raynox will also.

Macro is not easy I prefer to use a 4/3 Sigma 105mm f2.8 as the MF is too slow on 60mm f2.8 though with the right technique and subject the 60 mm is a great little lens
 
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Anyone using Yongnou triggers with a EM5 mark II, if so which one, can't get my YN622's work?

And more generally I notice that the little flash that comes with the EM5 does not appear use the center pin and it seems weird that the centre pin won't just fire any old flash. Is there a setting or something that I am missing?
Which pin exactly? And why is it of interest? I'm curious.
 
I shot it on my EM10 rather then the EM1 as the former is better at long exposures, basically I used the Samyang 12mm f2 wide open (which I specifically bought for this sort of thing) then just took a few test shots, started at iso 1600...I think this was shot at iso 2000 (maybe)...I must say, milky way shots usually need a bit of processing. A bit of colour correction (as this scene came out pretty warm) and a bit of clarity,highlights and contrast to the core
 
Which pin exactly? And why is it of interest? I'm curious.

On hotshoes there used to be just a "centre" pin and the edge of the shoe, shorting these out fired the flash. Then things got a lot more complex with ETTL etc. so more pins were added however if you look on the hotshoe there is still a big "centre" contact but if you look on the bottom of the EM5 flash there is no matching pin.

It is of interest because most cameras seem to honour the old tradition of connecting the centre pin so that old and generic flashes still work and I am surprised to say the least that the EM5 seems to have abandoned this. If I had known I might well have not bought the camera.
 
Hi not sure if this is the right place to ask this question but I dropped my out-of-warranty E-M5 on a family holiday in Vienna and broke the LCD screen at the back. The camera still works, but the LCD is cracked and completely dead. Does anyone know how much a repair by the Olympus Service Centre is likely to cost? Is there anyone who had a similar repair done and is willing to share what they paid for it? I'd rather not send it off to discover that a repair will be more expensive than procuring a second-hand E-M5.
 
Hi not sure if this is the right place to ask this question but I dropped my out-of-warranty E-M5 on a family holiday in Vienna and broke the LCD screen at the back. The camera still works, but the LCD is cracked and completely dead. Does anyone know how much a repair by the Olympus Service Centre is likely to cost? Is there anyone who had a similar repair done and is willing to share what they paid for it? I'd rather not send it off to discover that a repair will be more expensive than procuring a second-hand E-M5.


I had a dial come off mine when it got caught in my bag and the fix was a reasonable price (but it took a while, they send it to Portugal). If you search online there is a number /email address to contact in the UK on the olympus website, they will tell you roughly how much it will cost before you decide to go ahead with the repair. My camera came back immaculate and they gave it a free full service too :). If you can't find it let me know and I'll wade back through my emails for the name and address
 
On hotshoes there used to be just a "centre" pin and the edge of the shoe, shorting these out fired the flash. Then things got a lot more complex with ETTL etc. so more pins were added however if you look on the hotshoe there is still a big "centre" contact but if you look on the bottom of the EM5 flash there is no matching pin.

It is of interest because most cameras seem to honour the old tradition of connecting the centre pin so that old and generic flashes still work and I am surprised to say the least that the EM5 seems to have abandoned this. If I had known I might well have not bought the camera.
If the camera has the centre contact, it must still work. And it does trigger a manual flash and even work with triggers not designed for olympus. It's just these new flashes don't use it.
 
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If the camera has the centre contact, it must still work. And it does trigger a manual flash and even work with triggers not designed for olympus. It's just these new flashes don't use it.
But it doesn't with the YN622-TX trigger even though that trigger works on every other camera I have tried it on
 
But it doesn't with the YN622-TX trigger even though that trigger works on every other camera I have tried it on
I'm sure I read somewhere that one of the Yongnuo triggers requires a firmware update to use with Olympus - and I think it would have been the 622 as I had been reading about those. Unfortunately I can't find where I read it. I will have another hunt!!

I found this Amazon link, where one of the reviewers found it worked on an EM1 (about 3 reviews down) http://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN-622C-TX-E-TTL-Wireless-Controller/dp/B00MFDO2DG but obviously you've tried it already :(
 
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Does the EM10 feel much smaller in the hand than the EM5?

The add on grip looks like a decent addition too.
 
I'm sure I read somewhere that one of the Yongnuo triggers requires a firmware update to use with Olympus - and I think it would have been the 622 as I had been reading about those. Unfortunately I can't find where I read it. I will have another hunt!!

I found this Amazon link, where one of the reviewers found it worked on an EM1 (about 3 reviews down) http://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN-622C-TX-E-TTL-Wireless-Controller/dp/B00MFDO2DG but obviously you've tried it already :(
Thanks, I read that too so I downloaded the firmware updater and the firmware, installed it and connect the YN622 and...

nada, zilch, nothing. It didn't think the YN622 was connected.


Anyway after a bit of messing around and thinking about it I have a solution, I put a bit of electrical tape over the 4 contacts to the rear of the camera and it works. I guess the Olympus is sending out signals that confuse the YN622.
 
Thanks, I read that too so I downloaded the firmware updater and the firmware, installed it and connect the YN622 and...

nada, zilch, nothing. It didn't think the YN622 was connected.


Anyway after a bit of messing around and thinking about it I have a solution, I put a bit of electrical tape over the 4 contacts to the rear of the camera and it works. I guess the Olympus is sending out signals that confuse the YN622.
The trigger may be confused as it is a new configuration that so far only has one compatable flash and that comes with the camera
 
Time to start researching some lenses.

The kit lenses aren't that fast so what fast prime lens would you recommend that's a reasonable price? I was think something around the 17-20mm mark might make a good fast general purpose lens.

I have settled on the oly ones, the 17mm, the 25mm and the 45mm
 
The trigger may be confused as it is a new configuration that so far only has one compatable flash and that comes with the camera
That's kind of what I was thinking, the trigger is a Canon one so the Oly may be similar enough for the trigger to think it understands but not the same so it is confused. Anyway blanking off pins did the trick.
 
Has anyone found a way of not having White Balance on one of the dials? I generally shoot Raw with Auto WB and would correct in Lightroom if necessary. it is annoying as I so often seem to change the WB when I mean to change the ISO.
 
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