Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Bebop said:
I could be wrong :sneaky: I haven’t tested it.
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I have joined the FB group and found what seems to a good printable guide to focus stacking & focus bracketing. Plus member showed its use in a landscape situation....worth keeping abreast of!
 
RedRobin said:
.... I wondered about that but one step at a time eh? Have only just done my first ever focus stacking (Reply #19,400).

One aspect of Hi Res is that its file format can only be processed in Olympus Workflow < I think but perhaps needs confirming. So I don't know how that will mix if indeed it can.

Pity that OlympusUK are also on lockdown and so I can't phone and have a chat about it. You can email but they're taking days to answer at the moment.
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Well the Hi res shots from from my E-M5II can be processed in LR
 
the black fox said:
Yes it was hand held , cant answer the about the 12-40 as I don’t have one
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I can confirm that the 12-40 does support focus stacking - it's the only Pro lens I own and I was using it to do stacking today, including a dandelion seed head as it happens!
 
P4120962es.jpg

Not as good as yours, but still learning how to use this camera :)

Edit: hmm, that looks blurry on my screen after uploading it, but it's fine on my computer - maybe I'm doing something wrong?
 
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Malfis said:
Here's another interesting one :

http://learnandsupport.getolympus.c...-om-d-e-m1-mark-ii-focus-for-bird-photography
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Thank you. I shall have a proper read.

In all honesty, the reason I asked the question was more related to shooting my dog running towards the camera. But I think BiF settings would generally be a good starting point hence the reason for asking the question.

I have such a mixed bag of results. Some days, I seem to be able to nail everything. Other days, keeper rate seems to be more like 1 in 10. Our dog is a dalmation and I do sometimes wonder if there is something about his appearance that confuses the camera in certain lighting. When it misses, it is always back focused by about 12". Never front focussed or completely out. It is as if the camera is lagging the action by a fraction of a second. This is using the 40-150 pro generally. That's why I was interested in scan rates to see if I was missing a trick. I may also need to play around with turning the sensitivity down rather than up, not sure. Generally I've been mode 3 and +2.
 
Teeny weeny about 10mm long spider in my 1.5-acre wilderness backyard under 'lockdown'. Not focus stacked but the next one I see will be but far too breezy today with 20mph+ winds.

Does anyone know the species please? I can't find anything that looks like it on Google.

Olympus M1X + 60mm Macro, F/7.1, 1/400s, ISO 500, handheld.

WEAVING AN UNSEEN WEB by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
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RedRobin said:
Teeny weeny spider in my 1.5-acre wilderness backyard under 'lockdown'. Not focus stacked but the next one I see will be but far too breezy today with 20mph+ winds.

Does anyone know the species please? I can't find anything that looks like it on Google.

Olympus M1X + 60mm Macro, F/7.1, 1/400s, ISO 500, handheld.

WEAVING AN UNSEEN WEB by Robin Procter, on Flickr
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Looks like it may be a Long-jawed Orb-weaver.
 
c22w1 said:
Looks like it may be a Long-jawed Orb-weaver.
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RedRobin said:
Teeny weeny about 10mm long spider in my 1.5-acre wilderness backyard under 'lockdown'. Not focus stacked but the next one I see will be but far too breezy today with 20mph+ winds.

Does anyone know the species please? I can't find anything that looks like it on Google.

Olympus M1X + 60mm Macro, F/7.1, 1/400s, ISO 500, handheld.

WEAVING AN UNSEEN WEB by Robin Procter, on Flickr
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Yeah Long jawed orb weaver or Tetragnatha sp something like Tetragnatha montana

http://srs.britishspiders.org.uk/portal.php/p/A-Z+Species+Index/r/view/s/Tetragnathidae
 
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Bebop said:
I‘ve just had a look at the manual for the iii - hopefully same for ii. You can choose to have centre priority, which is the normal state of affairs.... or you can choose starting centre focus.. however this only works if centre priority is not enabled.menu A1.

I’ve just tried it on my EM1ii and that seems to sort it so that it always starts with centre point - do not enable centre priority and enable starting centre point.
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This does conclusively seem to work on a static subject. I had a session on my local red kites yesterday and it seemed to work on a moving subject as well with one proviso; that if you fail to nail the bird in the centre point it will use one of the outer points to grab focus. Is it possible that the electronics are so sophisticated that this is the case, I wonder?
 
has anyone else noticed , how remarkably free of dust spots there sensors are . .quite surreal considering how often I used to have to clean nikons or canons
 
Oh, (in my experience) they have dust, you just don't see it. If you take a photo the sky closed right down you can see them. It's just (I think) a function of the size of the sensor, making the dust spots relatively bigger, the fact that we don't often use small apertures, and something to do with the distance from a piece of dust and the sensor itself. All these combine to mean that the dust is pretty much oof.
 
the black fox said:
has anyone else noticed , how remarkably free of dust spots there sensors are . .quite surreal considering how often I used to have to clean nikons or canons
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Morning Jeff

Yes I've never ever had to clean an Olympus sensor. Unlike Nikon or Sony
 
Pound Coin said:
Oh, (in my experience) they have dust, you just don't see it. If you take a photo the sky closed right down you can see them. It's just (I think) a function of the size of the sensor, making the dust spots relatively bigger, the fact that we don't often use small apertures, and something to do with the distance from a piece of dust and the sensor itself. All these combine to mean that the dust is pretty much oof.
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In my experience, I've never seen dust on the sensor
 
the black fox said:
has anyone else noticed , how remarkably free of dust spots there sensors are . .quite surreal considering how often I used to have to clean nikons or canons
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I think it's probably because you never stop down beyond f8 (never past f5.6 in my case unless the lens was f6.3) and so you're less likely to see them. I only tend to see them on FF when stopping down to f11 and smaller.
 
jerry12953 said:
This does conclusively seem to work on a static subject. I had a session on my local red kites yesterday and it seemed to work on a moving subject as well with one proviso; that if you fail to nail the bird in the centre point it will use one of the outer points to grab focus. Is it possible that the electronics are so sophisticated that this is the case, I wonder?
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Yep I think this will be the case. It might be adjustable in that you can tell it whether to keep looking for focus if it can't find it, or you can tell it to stop - if I remember rightly.

I'm glad you raised this as it had always slightly annoyed me that it didn't start in the middle :) It meant that for kitesurfers I couldn't use 5 points as in the water it would choose the water but when they jumped 5 worked better... When I next get chance I will check if 5 will now work for all. It could still scupper me.
 
jerry12953 said:
This does conclusively seem to work on a static subject. I had a session on my local red kites yesterday and it seemed to work on a moving subject as well with one proviso; that if you fail to nail the bird in the centre point it will use one of the outer points to grab focus. Is it possible that the electronics are so sophisticated that this is the case, I wonder?
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Which is as it should be, if you only want to focus using a centre point, then you should use a centre point only.
 
the black fox said:
has anyone else noticed , how remarkably free of dust spots there sensors are . .quite surreal considering how often I used to have to clean nikons or canons
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I have cleaned one sensor once in 10 years of Olympus use. That was my E-M1 which was ex display.
 
I spent most of this afternoon in my backyard wilderness where there are many bird species and also the minibeasts are gradually appearing. I had my Olympus 60mm Macro on one M1X body and Oly 300mm + MC-14 mounted on my other M1X body so that I was prepared for either insects or birds.

My main purpose was to further try out handheld Focus Stacking on both lenses. What I discovered was that instead of switching in and out of C2 (my selected Custom Mode for Focus Stacking settings) I could merely toggle the BKT button on the top plate On/Off and also I would see the reduced image area frame and the BKT icon when it was switched On.

What I also discovered, which led to some frustration until I worked out how to solve it, was that image writing to card must be set to RAW if you want the stack to combine into a final JPEG onboard camera. If it's not set to RAW, you see an error message telling you that the stack combine failed to complete, although I saw later that the full set of images were still recorded for uploading later.

I think what might have happened is that as a result of Focus Stacking and creating both RAW and JPEG files on a card, that card needs reformatting after you have set the camera to only write RAW files. Otherwise after onboard Focus Stacking, the card remains instructed for RAW + JPEG and not RAW exclusively. I may be barking up the wrong tree but being unable to ask Olympus Customer Support, this is the only reason I could find for the problem.
 
RedRobin said:
I spent most of this afternoon in my backyard wilderness where there are many bird species and also the minibeasts are gradually appearing. I had my Olympus 60mm Macro on one M1X body and Oly 300mm + MC-14 mounted on my other M1X body so that I was prepared for either insects or birds.

My main purpose was to further try out handheld Focus Stacking on both lenses. What I discovered was that instead of switching in and out of C2 (my selected Custom Mode for Focus Stacking settings) I could merely toggle the BKT button on the top plate On/Off and also I would see the reduced image area frame and the BKT icon when it was switched On.

What I also discovered, which led to some frustration until I worked out how to solve it, was that image writing to card must be set to RAW if you want the stack to combine into a final JPEG onboard camera. If it's not set to RAW, you see an error message telling you that the stack combine failed to complete, although I saw later that the full set of images were still recorded for uploading later.

I think what might have happened is that as a result of Focus Stacking and creating both RAW and JPEG files on a card, that card needs reformatting after you have set the camera to only write RAW files. Otherwise after onboard Focus Stacking, the card remains instructed for RAW + JPEG and not RAW exclusively. I may be barking up the wrong tree but being unable to ask Olympus Customer Support, this is the only reason I could find for the problem.
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Hi Robin

Would be interesting to see what Olympus have to say regarding the settings for the cards I have reset my custom setting used for macro a couple of times after reformatting both cards and each time it only allows for LSF and RAW on the Olympus EM mark 2 but not RAW on slot 1 option is grayed out to select RAW. Slot 2 I keep for JPG I have had the macro lens for 2 days and really not had much chance to use and check settings as work is keeping me busy
 

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mazdaman said:
Hi Robin
Would be interesting to see what Olympus have to say regarding the settings for the cards I have reset my custom setting used for macro a couple of times after reformatting both cards and each time it only allows for LSF and RAW on the Olympus EM mark 2 but not RAW on slot 1 option is grayed out to select RAW. Slot 2 I keep for JPG I have had the macro lens for 2 days and really not had much chance to use and check settings as work is keeping me busy
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.... A greyed out 'RAW' option is exactly what I was getting and the same on both my camera bodies (M1X) and so I know the issue is consistent. I only shoot RAW and the only time a JPEG appears is as a final combination of a Focus Stack set (as it should).

The Macro lens offers superb image quality as everybody who has used it is saying. The focussing fields take a bit of getting used to and I find it better to firstly use the Focus Limiter press-n-twist fingertip-size button on the side (great ergonomic design) to select the appropriate focus field and I use AF rather than MF as manually focussing from scratch is usually extremely looong. I would only use MF plus Focus Peaking to fine-tune.

Here is a vid in case you haven't seen it : Not the best video I have found but he does at least give an honest account of his findings :

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4YCzGgQH8c


I find that I like to firstly switch the Focus Limiter to the appropriate focus field, then AF autofocus, and then override AF by manually turning the smoooth focus ring while having the focus peak indicator option enabled to fine-tune it.

Here is another video by the Finnish Olympus Visionary : His English does sometimes crack me up! "genray" (genre) and at least he is more talkative than fellow Fin Kimi Raikkonen :

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvirSlcyIrA


HTH
 
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mazdaman said:
Hi Robin

Would be interesting to see what Olympus have to say regarding the settings for the cards I have reset my custom setting used for macro a couple of times after reformatting both cards and each time it only allows for LSF and RAW on the Olympus EM mark 2 but not RAW on slot 1 option is grayed out to select RAW. Slot 2 I keep for JPG I have had the macro lens for 2 days and really not had much chance to use and check settings as work is keeping me busy
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.... Further to my last reply to this issue of the 'RAW' option being greyed out, I did some more conscious testing this afternoon out in the field (brambled wilderness) and found that whenever I toggled the BKT button to disable all Bracketing, the option to select exclusively RAW returned. So I think it reasonable to assume that when selecting Focus Stacking, the camera automatically switches itself to LSF+RAW so that it is able to write the final JPEG to the card from the set of RAW files. When you disable BKT it then automatically switches itself back to your previous choice < In my case, RAW only.

This is a question better answered by Olympus Support but my expectation would be that if you write a RAW file to one card and a JPEG of the same shot to the other card, then when Focus Stacking, the resulting JPEG final combo file is written to the same card as your RAW set and hence the sequential file numbering is maintained. Subsequent file viewing might get very jumbled if this wasn't the case.
 
You are correct Robin I did exactly the same test and as you have rightly pointed out once bracketing is switched off card reverts to previous setting Olympus cameras certainly are feature packed how to extract the best out the camera is I guess part of the learning curve thanks for confirming my findings
RedRobin said:
.... Further to my last reply to this issue of the 'RAW' option being greyed out, I did some more conscious testing this afternoon out in the field (brambled wilderness) and found that whenever I toggled the BKT button to disable all Bracketing, the option to select exclusively RAW returned. So I think it reasonable to assume that when selecting Focus Stacking, the camera automatically switches itself to LSF+RAW so that it is able to write the final JPEG to the card from the set of RAW files. When you disable BKT it then automatically switches itself back to your previous choice < In my case, RAW only.

This is a question better answered by Olympus Support but my expectation would be that if you write a RAW file to one card and a JPEG of the same shot to the other card, then when Focus Stacking, the resulting JPEG final combo file is written to the same card as your RAW set and hence the sequential file numbering is maintained. Subsequent file viewing might get very jumbled if this wasn't the case.
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If you were starting again and had a £1500 budget ( and are happy to buy used or grey ), what would you buy ? Body and lens(es)..

Am considering selling some of my not often used Nikon gear...
 
damianmkv said:
If you were starting again and had a £1500 budget ( and are happy to buy used or grey ), what would you buy ? Body and lens(es)..

Am considering selling some of my not often used Nikon gear...
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Are you after portable or something hold with a big lens for a while
 
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damianmkv said:
If you were starting again and had a £1500 budget ( and are happy to buy used or grey ), what would you buy ? Body and lens(es)..

Am considering selling some of my not often used Nikon gear...
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Guess it depends what combo your are looking for EM 1 mark 2 £762 on the grey market thereafter whatever lens required for your main interest I guess
 
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