Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

goinggreynow said:
I'm a regualr at Silverstone and usually concentrate on panning shots from the various grandstands. At last year's Historic Festival I decided to try something a little different and switched from AF Servo to manual focussing part way through the day. 500 shots from Becketts (historic F1 cars) and a similar number from the F1 Paddock grandstand (Group Cs). Results were generally OK. My main issue was not with focus but caused by shutter speeds of 1/30 and below! I do agree though that for most "head on" shots I wouldn't bother with MF.
Click to expand...
Thanks, thie historic event is great, I went to it at Donington last year. Panning at 1/25 with the 150-600mm wasn't easy :LOL:
 
snerkler said:
I can't remember if I've asked this before but is there a way to use exposure compensation when using manual mode with auto ISO? I was really needing this feature today as needed to control aperture and shutter but was panning in and out of shade.
Click to expand...
There is. The way I've set mine up is when the AEL/AFL switch is set to position 2 then the exposure compensation is controlled by the front wheel.
It behaves in an odd way though, the change is only seen as a numerical value, the sliding indicator does not move.
TBH I'm not sure if that's automatic or the result of button re-assignment. I"m actually too scared to check in case I mess up my saved custom settings.......again!;)
 
Last edited:
footman said:
There is. The way I've set mine up is when the AEL/AFL switch is set to position 2 then the exposure compensation is controlled by the front wheel.
It behaves in an odd way though, the change is only seen as a numerical value, the sliding indicator does not move.
TBH I'm not sure if that's automatic or the result of button re-assignment. I"m actually too scared to check in case I mess up my saved custom settings.......again!;)
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot, I'll look into that as I have it default at the mo.
 
Has anyone seen or used the stf-8 macro flash unit? Or any similar set up, I'm quite tempted for ease but no one seem to have stock.....Hoping they might have one to try at the photography show next month
 
dclutter said:
Has anyone had any issues with the FL-LM3 flash that comes with the e-m5ii?

It works perfectly in iAuto, but in A or S it underexposes everything. If I manually set the ISO I can make it work. But with Auto-ISO it goes to 200ISO and gives me next to nothing. Looking at the settings that iAuto uses, its the same ISO (200), SS, Aperture and no sign of flash compensation... but the flash its much more powerful.

Any ideas? It's driving me mad.
Click to expand...

In case anyone was interested I worked out what was wrong here. Turns out my camera had defaulted to "RC" mode for the flash. Works properly now.
 
dclutter said:
In case anyone was interested I worked out what was wrong here. Turns out my camera had defaulted to "RC" mode for the flash. Works properly now.
Click to expand...
I haven't had any problems in manual using the flash, but worth knowing, thanks for posting. What is RC mode - just out of interest?
 
milster said:
Has anyone seen or used the stf-8 macro flash unit? Or any similar set up, I'm quite tempted for ease but no one seem to have stock.....Hoping they might have one to try at the photography show next month
Click to expand...
Last time I looked the STF-8 was still pre order today it awaiting stock.
I look forward to a review.
The old STF-22 was twice the price but more powerful and larger.
 
Last edited:
I'm going to Israel on Thursday for the bird Spring migration and I was going to pack everything in my ThankTank Airport Express and pack the Retrospective 7 in my hold case for carrying around. Because of the 20 Kilo hold limit on Monarch and the fact that I'm also packing snorkel gear I thought I'd have a go at packing everything in the Ret 7.
I've packed E-m1 Mkii, E-m1, 300mm F4, 12-40 f2.8,40-150 f2.8 and MC-14 converter. Also in are my Opticron bins, BR strap, assorted cleaning bits, Ipad, Kindle and medication. The total dimensions are 110cm, their max is 121cm and the weight is 7.9 kilo, their max is 10 Kilos.

Another great advantage of m4/3. I shudder to think if I'd been using Canon or Nikon.
 
alfbranch said:
Last time I looked the STF-8 was still pre order today it awaiting stock.
I look forward to a review.
The old STF-22 was twice the price but more powerful and larger.
Click to expand...

Ah, yes, seen that now...Thought it was due out same time a em1 mkii......Have you used these type of set ups before Alf?
 
milster said:
Ah, yes, seen that now...Thought it was due out same time a em1 mkii......Have you used these type of set ups before Alf?
Click to expand...
No I have not used this type of set up but I am considering it.
The old STF-22 was too expensive even secondhand if you could fine it.
 
@snerkler - noticed your bird images were shot with the 40-150mm f4-5.6R and having just got an E-M1 with the "cheap" 40 - 150 f4-5.6 R I was very impressed with it.

Only taken some portraits at the moment but for the money, its nice :)

33133202786_5e8432915d_c.jpg
 
niko said:
i do like that, and a lovely looking bird- how you finding being back with the oly 1 ?
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'm not back with the EM1 as I had the EM10 and EM5-II before, but yeah I really like the Olly system. Really nice to use, and I like the lightweight lenses.

johnty52 said:
@snerkler - noticed your bird images were shot with the 40-150mm f4-5.6R and having just got an E-M1 with the "cheap" 40 - 150 f4-5.6 R I was very impressed with it.

Only taken some portraits at the moment but for the money, its nice :)

33133202786_5e8432915d_c.jpg
Click to expand...

I hadn't gone out to take bird pics, was just out for the day in Whitby. But they were there and I had the 40-150mm in my pocket ;) Cost me £85 and IQ is great considering (y)

Cracking detail on that portrait, are you saying that's with the 40-150mm f4-5.6?
 
Last edited:
snerkler said:
Thanks. I'm not back with the EM1 as I had the EM10 and EM5-II before, but yeah I really like the Olly system. Really nice to use, and I like the lightweight lenses.

I hadn't gone out to take bird pics, was just out for the day in Whitby. But they were there and I had the 40-150mm in my pocket ;) Cost me £85 and IQ is great considering (y)

Cracking detail on that portrait, are you saying that's with the 40-150mm f4-5.6?
Click to expand...

Yes, that's at 70mm f9 Iso 200, bought it with the M1 off here. Seller said it was a bit of a cracker, easily up with the faster expensive version, and he may be right.
 
Last edited:
johnty52 said:
Yes, that's at 70mm f9 Iso 200, bought it with the M1 off here. Seller said it was a bit of a cracker, easily up with the faster expensive version, and he may be right.
Click to expand...
Impressive.
 
Ongoing saga of my EM-5, which was shutting down after every shutter activation and needed switching off and on again each time a photo was taken.
I have contacted the place where it was won in a competition by another forum member (London Camera Exchange) then sold on to me.
Its still in warranty and LCE have kindly agreed to send it off to Olympus for repair under warranty even though I am not the original owner.

Before boxing it up this morning I had another play and discovered that the fault only occurs when the camera is in Aperture Priority mode. It works perfectly in Manual, S and P. Absolutely perfectly. Bizarre!

Anyone else experienced anything like this with the EM-5?

I'm not sure if I should just keep it now and send it in if the fault develops further. I'm happy in full manual so no great hardship to me.
 
Just a heads up that there is a firmware update available for the EM-1 MkII apparently designed to "improve the stability" of RAW files, whatever that means. Just updated mine successfully.
 
Hi Guys,

I little while ago I saw a post offering suggestions as to what to have turned on and off on the Pen-F, now looking for that post and can't lay my hands on it.

Any advice or help.

Cheers

Andy
 
Gandalf said:
Hi Guys,

I little while ago I saw a post offering suggestions as to what to have turned on and off on the Pen-F, now looking for that post and can't lay my hands on it.

Any advice or help.

Cheers

Andy
Click to expand...


I guess that depends massively on how you want to use it.
 
michael23 said:
Is there a way to reset the highlight and shadow settings without using the directional arrows to put it back?
Click to expand...

Not sure what camera you're using however on my Pen-F if you press & hold the OK button it will reset the highlight/shadow settings.
 
Hey all
Would appreciate any advice on whether I have a problem with my 10mkII or if it's the user! :)
Been to a couple of small gigs recently & have been shooting manually, with ISO set to auto but most of the results have been disappointing, with colours blooming & a weird solarization effect going on.
I've tried adjusting white balance, shooting monotone & have factory reset the camera without affect.
P3032912 (Large).JPG P3032940 (Large).JPG P3032941 (Large).JPG P3032949 (Large).JPG
I've only ever used JPEG, could that possibly be the issue when the ISO goes high?
The camera's away with Olympus getting checked out at the moment.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Cheers, Paul
 
Paden said:
Hey all
Would appreciate any advice on whether I have a problem with my 10mkII or if it's the user! :)
Been to a couple of small gigs recently & have been shooting manually, with ISO set to auto but most of the results have been disappointing, with colours blooming & a weird solarization effect going on.
I've tried adjusting white balance, shooting monotone & have factory reset the camera without affect.
View attachment 97502 View attachment 97503 View attachment 97504 View attachment 97505
I've only ever used JPEG, could that possibly be the issue when the ISO goes high?
The camera's away with Olympus getting checked out at the moment.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Cheers, Paul
Click to expand...

Looks like a problem with dynamic range, red channel saturation and the jpg engine, shooting B&W will only make it worse as the setting you are using is high key with a strong contrast curve.

Shooting in raw to recover the highlights and under exposing a bit more will help although you won't be able to shoot with M and auto-ISO and use exposure compensation so you will need to use a semi-auto mode, probably shutter priority.

edit: to add, it's not a fault with the camera per-se, just that you are using it non-optimally in an extreme situation.
 
Last edited:
Nawty said:
Looks like a problem with dynamic range, red channel saturation and the jpg engine, shooting B&W will only make it worse as the setting you are using is high key with a strong contrast curve.

Shooting in raw to recover the highlights and under exposing a bit more will help although you won't be able to shoot with M and auto-ISO and use exposure compensation so you will need to use a semi-auto mode, probably shutter priority.

edit: to add, it's not a fault with the camera per-se, just that you are using it non-optimally in an extreme situation.
Click to expand...

Many thanks for the reply Nawty.
Would you be able to clarify what you mean by "the setting you are using is high key with a strong contrast curve" & is it something I can change?
I normally have the colour set to "neutral".

Cheers, Paul
 
Paden said:
Many thanks for the reply Nawty.
Would you be able to clarify what you mean by "the setting you are using is high key with a strong contrast curve" & is it something I can change?
I normally have the colour set to "neutral".

Cheers, Paul
Click to expand...
i would read that as the subject you were shooting is high key. basically the last sentence sums it up. I use and love m4/3 but for subjects like this its not ideal
 
Paden said:
Many thanks for the reply Nawty.
Would you be able to clarify what you mean by "the setting you are using is high key with a strong contrast curve" & is it something I can change?
I normally have the colour set to "neutral".

Cheers, Paul
Click to expand...

Well, I mean the B&W conversion is intentionally set to make things either white or black with little in between, that is high key.

In this situation the sensor is just being over-run with red and when the jpg engine is applied you are getting that posterisation. One way to stop that is to reduce the overall exposure, the better way is to shoot in raw and recover the red channel and highlights.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top