Over exposed areas on edge of negatives.

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Peter
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Hi all.

I am new to medium format film photography, and seem to be having issues when I develop my negatives from my Rollei SL66 camera. As you can see below, the edges of the film are coming out of the development tank over exposed. This has also happened to other rolls of film shot with this camera, but to a lesser extent. Am I right in thinking they are light leaks? The areas seem to be in the same location, but get worse the further along the negative you go.

These negatives are 120 HP5+, developed with a Paterson developing tank/ reel. 650ml of chemicals to make sure the film is completely covered, with gentle agitation and knocking to remove any air bubbles.

Does anyone have any ideas what is causing this? I've had one person far more experienced in film developing than me suggest perhaps the film magazine is not fully pressing the film to the camera back? So when the shutter opens, light is managing to intrude. Any ideas/ suggestions?

Thanks!

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The increasing density of the defect in the film margin as you get closer to the end and an apparent repeating pattern could suggest that the roll was not tightly wrapped and secured after shooting. Light could then leak down the edge of the spool and between the backing paper layers. The effect would get less as you got towards the earlier shots nearer the spool shaft.
 
I too am new to Medium Format (so it would probably be best to ignore what I am about to say). It looks to me like this is light that has got into the end of the roll during the loading / unloading / handling prior to putting it in the tank.

Did you have trouble loading the roll? I did with my first roll, and got similar marks. Alternatively, when you took the exposed roll out, was it a bit loosely wound? When you got it out, did you use the gummed label to hold it tight, or a rubber band, or just leave it - it could have come unwound a little then.

If it were a light leak in the camera, you would expect the marks and registration to be pretty much identical for every shot - to my mind, they change through the film.
 
WTS in the previous two posts. ;)
 
I just took a roll of 120 out of an Agfa clack and I won't be surprised if I get the same problem. The film wasn't tight on the takup spool.
 
Thanks for the responses! Very interesting, I had never thought about the film once it was taken out the camera. I do have a bad habit of not really making sure the film is tight on the spool and firmly stuck down with the sticky tab. Usually its just placed loosely on.

I think I will run a roll of unexposed film through my camera, then make sure to secure it firmly when taking it out the camera.
 
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"Did you have trouble loading the roll? "

In my mind I thought I was doing it correct, but maybe when I was loading the film onto the cassette I was letting the film become too loose. As for removing the film from the camera, I do that in normal light, then I always load the roll for developing in a completely dark wardrobe, and usually dont have issues with getting them onto the spool, then into the tank.
 
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Just something I learned from 50+ years of using roll film.
Before you stick the end down with the paper tab, fold the end of the paper under itself and then fold again, finally, ensuring the film is wound tightly, stick the tab.
When you come to load your film into the tank the folded under paper creates a step where it is easy to slit the adhesive tab with a fingernail without putting pressure on the roll of film which can cause handling marks.
 
Just something I learned from 50+ years of using roll film.
Before you stick the end down with the paper tab, fold the end of the paper under itself and then fold again, finally, ensuring the film is wound tightly, stick the tab.
When you come to load your film into the tank the folded under paper creates a step where it is easy to slit the adhesive tab with a fingernail without putting pressure on the roll of film which can cause handling marks.
Good tip, one I shall adopt. (y)
 
Hi. Little update

So as suggested I made sure the film did not get loose on the spool while loading and unloading it from the camera. Once out the camera I also made sure it was secure with an elastic band. I also made a slight adjustment to the camera so the film magazine would be pushed firmer to the camera back... And its worked! Negatives have zero light leaks on them and look perfect so far.

Thanks everyone!:D
 
Hi. Little update

So as suggested I made sure the film did not get loose on the spool while loading and unloading it from the camera. Once out the camera I also made sure it was secure with an elastic band. I also made a slight adjustment to the camera so the film magazine would be pushed firmer to the camera back... And its worked! Negatives have zero light leaks on them and look perfect so far.

Thanks everyone!:D
Excellent news.
A word of caution re elastic bands.
Unless you are going to develop immediately, the bands can leave a mark on your negs due to the pressure of the elastic on the spool.
By far it’s better to stick the backing paper down with tape. ;)
 
A late contribution, But this is what can happen if the camera's take up spool doesn't wind the film on tight. When I took the film out of the Kodak Brownie Cresta 3 it was too late to fix what had gone wrong.
Kodak Brownie Cresta 3, Fomapan 200.
Mind you it is a crap camera!
1575_003 copy_JPEG5.jpg
 
A late contribution, But this is what can happen if the camera's take up spool doesn't wind the film on tight. When I took the film out of the Kodak Brownie Cresta 3 it was too late to fix what had gone wrong.
Kodak Brownie Cresta 3, Fomapan 200.
Mind you it is a crap camera!
View attachment 312667

When people a hundred years from now, with 10 GP camera wrist watches , could look back to the old days of film and enjoy the shot....well I sorta like in now.
 
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