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- Chris
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Be strong. Don't submit to GAS ......................... yet
Just received my Olympus 9-18mm.
This is the first time I've had a wide angle since my Canon DSLR days when I had a Sigma 12-24mm (a fantastic lens) and a Canon 20-35mm ( a ho-hum lens.)
The Oly 9-18mm shows some barrel distortion but nothing to really worry too much about. Distortion wise it's not as good as the fantastic Sigma but probably a bit (or a lot) better than the ho-hum Canon. All in all I'm very happy with the 9-18mm
That is nice. Well done!
Yes, the primes are nice. I went for the 45mm f1.8 Oly myself but have secretly lusted after the Panny lens As I mentioned, the lenses are what's kept me loyal to the system.
Is anyone using the Panasonic 12-35?
What are your thoughts on it and is it worth the crazy price tag?
I thought about this but the effective aperture is 5.6 which makes the lens very expensive IMO and apparently it's a fair size.
I thought about this but the effective aperture is 5.6 which makes the lens very expensive IMO and apparently it's a fair size.
The aperture is f2.8 and for exposure f2.8 is what you get. It's only f5.6 if you're talking equivalent DoF and I do hope you aren't...
Interesting subject. I was comparing to full frame. As I see it a 1.4 MFT lens wide open would have the same bokeh as a 2.8 FF lens or am I wrong?
Hi I would be interested in more shots with the new 42.5mm if possible please. I am going back to MFT with a GX7 and have a clean slate with lenses.
Yes, it's only for DoF equivalence to 35mm "FF" however that's only half the story... or in fact only a fraction of the story. The lens you're looking at is a quality bit of kit in both build and image quality not a kit lens and it's a constant f2.8 and both of those things (constant f2.8 and quality of build and image) cost money.
I'm a bit of a shallow DoF lover myself but even so I personally think it is over rated and often done to death. For example how often do you/I/we really want a picture with next to nothing sharp? Rarely maybe, hopefully, and for most of my photographic life I've been fighting for more DoF not less. If specifically going for shallow DoF you can get if from MFT by using longer lenses, reducing the camera to subject distance and perhaps moving your subject forward of the background if possible etc...
Taking head and shoulders to half body people shots as an example... when shooting with "FF" and a 50, 85 or 135mm lens I'd want to stop the lens down to get the face sharp going back as far as the ears and maybe then drifting out or I'd maybe stop down further to get the whole head in the DoF and once you start stopping FF down to f2.8 MFT can match it with f1.4 primes and once you stop FF down past f5.6 which I'd very possibly be doing if shooting FF MFT can match it with a f2.8 zoom. Actually, looking at some recent pictures taken with a FF camera and 35mm lens f5 to f8 just about does it (I'll get crucified if I post shots of my GF so you'll have to take my word for it) and that's easily within the reach of a MFT 17mm prime and although I'm mostly a prime guy I'm sure you can do the math and see that a f2.8 zoom covering the 35mm equivalent length would have done the job too.
It's up to each of us to decide but I personally don't see DoF as too much of an issue with MFT and if fact it could potentially offer an advantage for hand held shooting. Anyone interested in MFT but concerned about the shallow DoF thing should take a look at FF or APS-C shots and do the math. Personally, for me it's pretty much a non issue. YMMV.
The £200 cash back on the G7 is making it extremely tempting... Must resist.
Only let down with the G7 is no IBIS.
The Olympus are good in this regard. I would have loved it for the video side of things but for photos want to get some fast primes.
I miss my G3 and 20mm even though it did't tick all the boxes.