Show us yer film shots then!

Messages
4,696
Name
Nige
Edit My Images
No
Bronica ETRSi
Zenzanon 75mm f/2.8
Fomapan 100
Ilfotec DD-X 1+4 8mins @ 20°

This roll (and a number of others) is from a faulty batch which produces dust-like speckles on the final negs. In the past I've "dust-spotted" them, but I really can't be bothered with the hours of effort it takes. I contacted Foma about it and they gave some instructions on how to combat the problem when developing, and they're sending me some replacement non-faulty film, which I thought was excellent customer service.


Paw
by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 

Asha

Blithering Idiot
Messages
9,960
Name
Asha
Edit My Images
Yes
his roll (and a number of others) is from a faulty batch which produces dust-like speckles on the final negs. In the past I've "dust-spotted" them, but I really can't be bothered with the hours of effort it takes. I contacted Foma about it and they gave some instructions on how to combat the problem when developing, and they're sending me some replacement non-faulty film, which I thought was excellent customer service.

Same issue??
 
Messages
4,696
Name
Nige
Edit My Images
No

Same issue??
Sounds like it could be. What batch number was yours?
 

Andysnap

<span class="poty">POTY (Film) 2015</span>
Messages
15,949
Name
Andy Grant
Edit My Images
Yes
Sounds like it could be. What batch number was yours?
Funnily enough I've just developed 3 rolls of foma 100 and have the same issue, I assumed it was my fixer as it has coated the bottle I keep it in. Where would I find the batch number?
 

Asha

Blithering Idiot
Messages
9,960
Name
Asha
Edit My Images
Yes
I think the first number is probably the batch reference. Its different to the one on my faulty rolls though. Maybe there was more than one dodgy batch?
Possibly different numbers depending on format too.....mine is 10x8 sheet film
 

Andysnap

<span class="poty">POTY (Film) 2015</span>
Messages
15,949
Name
Andy Grant
Edit My Images
Yes
It should be embossed on the box, although it can be quite hard to read.
Ah, well there you go then.... I don't have the box, I keep them in a plastic box in the fridge just in their paper packets.
 
Messages
4,696
Name
Nige
Edit My Images
No
Ok, so here are the instructions I received. Note: I tried the developing method stated and still got the spots on my last roll. I've not tried the ethanol process for sorting out already developed negatives though.

In case of your already exposed & processed negatives we recommend to you the following procedure to remove the residues of remaining anti-halo layer:
  1. Prepare working solution in minimum with 40% of ethanol (optimally 70%).
  2. Put carefully the films into spiral´s developing tank or a spiral with the film into similar transparent container with enough ethanol solution, with emulsion layer inside of the cylinder tank/container.
  3. Keep the negatives in this solution approximately 45 minutes and make moderate movement each 4-5 minutes.
    Wash sheets of the negatives in running water from tap for 2-3 minutes.
  4. Make standard drying including wetting agent (FOTONAL).


If you may decide to use also other films from the same emulsion number, we advise you to follow this procedure of processing:
  1. Exposed films put inside of the spiral´s developing tank.
  2. Pour distilled water or water without minerals into this developing tank and keep the films in this solution for 20-30 minutes. Occasional inversion is convenient. This solution, ca. 600 ml, is possible to use in maximum for 2 rolls.
  3. Immediately after pouring the water out you can fill the tank by developing working solution keeping standard conditions of developing, best using more alkaline developer, e.g. FOMADON R09.
  4. After developing we recommend to stop process just by water bath, best running filtered water, in minimum for the time of 30 seconds in water´s temperature 12-18° C. Using acidic stop bath like FOMACITRO and others is not convenient in this case, because there are needed alkaline baths to help with dissolving the hardened anti-halo layer.
  5. Standard fixing.
  6. Wash the strips of the negatives in running water for 20-30 minutes (according to higher or lower temperature).
  7. Use ethanol solution and other steps (1-5) as described in previous paragraph.
It might be worth spinning these last few posts off into another thread (or adding them to @Asha 's original thread) so they're easier to find for anyone else having the same problem.
 
Last edited:

Woodsy

POTY Winner 2009
Messages
7,637
Name
Jonathan
Edit My Images
Yes
Having decided to go back through the photos from a few trips ago, I found this one which, after my initial attempt to process it, I wasn't a fan of. I decided to start again and have a go at editing it again, and this time I'm a lot happier with the result. I cannot wait to get back to the mountains. As normal, please click through to see it in full if you wish :)

Late afternoon on Castle Cragg by Jonathan Woods, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
Messages
4,696
Name
Nige
Edit My Images
No
Having decided to go back through the photos from a few trips ago, I found this one which, after my initial attempt to process it, I wasn't a fan of. I decided to start again and have a go at editing it again, and this time I'm a lot happier with the result. I cannot wait to get back to the mountains. As normal, please click through to see it in full if you wish :)

Late afternoon on Castle Cragg by Jonathan Woods, on Flickr
The comment that someone has made on Flickr about it looking like a classic landscape painting is a good one. The atmospheric haze and the subtle colours are beautiful.
 
Messages
5,581
Name
David
Edit My Images
Yes

Andysnap

<span class="poty">POTY (Film) 2015</span>
Messages
15,949
Name
Andy Grant
Edit My Images
Yes

Woodsy

POTY Winner 2009
Messages
7,637
Name
Jonathan
Edit My Images
Yes
Continuing my short stint of looking through and re-editing photographs from a while back, I found this one that, again, I just couldn't get right at the time. This was taken on my now sold ( :facepalm: ) Mamiya 645 Super and some expired Kodak E100S. I had no tripod and it was a fairly long exposure, but in any case I'm now quite happy with it. It's a nice memory regardless :)

Autumn in Petworth by Jonathan Woods, on Flickr
 
Last edited:

Asha

Blithering Idiot
Messages
9,960
Name
Asha
Edit My Images
Yes
A quick scan of a negative that i doubt will be processed any further tbh.

I was unsure of the composition at the time of exposure, the bare tree branches being located partly down the ravine infront of me meant that inclusion of the trunk base was impossible.

In addition the purpose OOF background could I think do to be more OOF.

Anyway it may please you lot as a local ( to where I live), mountain scene........The direct but not advisable route for me to return home would be directly down the ravine, turn left at the bottom, and trespass for a few hundred meters! lol

Intrepid 5x7
Fomapan 13x18
210mm lens ( the one with a distinct scratch in the center of the rear element!)
tp.jpg
 
Last edited:

excalibur2

My F4's Broken...
Messages
10,757
Name
Brian
Edit My Images
Yes
Messages
1,213
Edit My Images
Yes
On a flat board?

Without a recessed board i suspect movements are minimal no?

Beautiful location and a nice result btw(y)
From the master of LF, I will take that with thanks :)

Flat board indeed - the movements are enough for me for now (very much a LF beginner!) I still have not worked out rear tilt at all, but front tilt was enough for this image, and I've not run out of shift yet... And showing how forgiving Foma100 is, I metered this for f22, and then forgot to stop down, so this was shot "wide open" at f8 1/8 sec! One of the few times I have been grateful for not springing for the 90/5.6!

This exposure at the Middle Falls was less precarious than the Upper Falls, but I was uphill of the camera, set on a low tripod so I was bent up like a contortionist to see the ground glass! One I should have made some photos for the "outings" thread, but I was out with SWMBO who was already looking impatient with my 3 x single exposures, so I decided not to press my luck...



20200825-McCloud_Falls_Intrepid_Mk4_Foma100_HC (2 of 4)
by Alex Morrison, on Flickr
 

Asha

Blithering Idiot
Messages
9,960
Name
Asha
Edit My Images
Yes
From the master of LF, I will take that with thanks :)

Flat board indeed - the movements are enough for me for now (very much a LF beginner!) I still have not worked out rear tilt at all, but front tilt was enough for this image, and I've not run out of shift yet... And showing how forgiving Foma100 is, I metered this for f22, and then forgot to stop down, so this was shot "wide open" at f8 1/8 sec! One of the few times I have been grateful for not springing for the 90/5.6!

This exposure at the Middle Falls was less precarious than the Upper Falls, but I was uphill of the camera, set on a low tripod so I was bent up like a contortionist to see the ground glass! One I should have made some photos for the "outings" thread, but I was out with SWMBO who was already looking impatient with my 3 x single exposures, so I decided not to press my luck...


20200825-McCloud_Falls_Intrepid_Mk4_Foma100_HC (2 of 4)
by Alex Morrison, on Flickr
Composure wise I quite like the idea you have in this shot ......Certainly a base for something interesting and even exposed three stops over it's held onto quite a lot of detail.


Generally landscapes can be obtained with a minimal amount of movements so as you have found out, even with a wide lens and scrunched up bellows, the exposures are doable.

Personally I prefer more freedom which seeing as architecture tends to be a regular contender in my choice of photograph, is pretty much a necessity tbh.

Rear tilt .....pretty much as easy as front tilt but a couple of things to consider.
Firstly and most importantly imo, tilting the rear standard changes the perspective of the image ( for example making the foreground "bloom" and appear to be considerably larger than how it is seen in real life.
Similarly verticals are affected, hence by keeping the back vertically parallel with the face of building will ensure the verical lines don't converge, saying that a couple of degrees of tilt necessary for landscapes wouldn't typically pose a problem tbh.

Sometimes rear tilt can have advantages over front tilt.
If the bellows extension requires go go gadget arms to operate the front standard controls then working from the rear is much much easier.
If lens image circle is minimal, the use of rear tilt requires less coverage than front tilt. (iirc :thinking:)

Drawback being that it can take more than two or three adjustments to get the front to back focus set correctly ( front tilt generally requiring two or three moves)

As you already know, focusing back to front using front tilt involves focus on near, tilt for far.
With the rear tilt, one works in reverse, ie, focus far ( usually infinity) and tilt ( the rear standard backwards) to bring near into focus.

Much easier to show someone than to put it into words but hopefully I will have helped you a little to understand the process better.

From the master of LF
As for your very kind words, I'll consider myself honoured to be seen as such, but be assured that there are much better LF togs on here than I ;)
 
Messages
5,126
Name
Peter
Edit My Images
Yes
Minolta SRT 101b
Rokkor 50mm f/1.7
Kodak Tri-X (expired circa 2000-ish)
Ilfotec DD-X 1+4 8mins @ 20°

Simca by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
I actaually learned to drive on a Simca 1000 like this, but I see that this is a Rallye model with a 1294 engine, rather than the ordinary 1000. I'm amazed this has survived, as they weren't very well put together!
 
Messages
1,419
Name
Kevin
Edit My Images
No
Messages
4,991
Name
Ian
Edit My Images
No
Not really had the heart for any photography recently. This roll of HP5 was hauled through the camera.
Voigtlander Bessa R3M, Voigtlander 40mm Nokton. 16:9 treatment is all mine...

2020-09-11-hp5plus800-r3m-03.jpg
 
Messages
4,991
Name
Ian
Edit My Images
No
Some photos
That 1st images is brilliant. The umbrella works as a literal diffuser to spread light on her face, and provides stark contrast to the background. This is why we need an applause emote.
 
Messages
1,213
Edit My Images
Yes
Rear tilt .....pretty much as easy as front tilt but a couple of things to consider.
Firstly and most importantly imo, tilting the rear standard changes the perspective of the image ( for example making the foreground "bloom" and appear to be considerably larger than how it is seen in real life.
Similarly verticals are affected, hence by keeping the back vertically parallel with the face of building will ensure the verical lines don't converge, saying that a couple of degrees of tilt necessary for landscapes wouldn't typically pose a problem tbh.

Sometimes rear tilt can have advantages over front tilt.
If the bellows extension requires go go gadget arms to operate the front standard controls then working from the rear is much much easier.
If lens image circle is minimal, the use of rear tilt requires less coverage than front tilt. (iirc [https://www])
Thank you for this - presumably if I'm emphasising the foreground then I can also deemphasise the background? That gives me some ideas for some of the areas around home when it cools down a little.

Excellent composition and subject.
Thank you!
 

Asha

Blithering Idiot
Messages
9,960
Name
Asha
Edit My Images
Yes
Thank you for this - presumably if I'm emphasising the foreground then I can also deemphasise the background? That gives me some ideas for some of the areas around home when it cools down a little.



Thank you!
There are loads of tutorials on the internet.
This one clearly explains the basics including actual scenes on the groundglass to show the effects of movements.

View: https://youtu.be/0JU-eHpk97Y
 
Messages
5,126
Name
Peter
Edit My Images
Yes
Some Covid-inspired out-takes from the Disposable Challenge and the FPOTY Vintage topic.

#1 But not this year .... Usually the busiest day of the year, but deserted on the actual day. Kodak Funflash disposable

000098840020-tp.jpg

#2 Socially distant seating Kodak Funflash

000098840001-tp.jpg

#3 Triumph over Covid-19 Minox 35GT & Gold

000091870038-copy-tp.jpg
 
Top