Suggestion on which MF to get - up to £500 (ish)

[Raymond Lin]

I want the look down the viewfinder, Rolleiflex experience but don't know where to start.

Not sure what lenses are good but I would like one with a 50mm Eqv, so what focal length is that in a camera like a Rolleiflex?

Budget say £500.

To tell you the truth, I might not put a roll through it for a while, so it might just sit on the shelf as decoration, but want it to still be functional when the time comes.

 

[Kevin Allan]

For £500 you’d be more likely to get a Rolleicord or a Yashicamat rather than a Rolleiflex. You might pay around £350 for the camera which will leave some cash spare for a CLA.
The standard lens would be 75mm or 80mm.

 

[Mr Perceptive]

Yashicamat is the obvious answer, when I've finished teh roll of film in mine it will be for sale (as I've 'upgraded' to a Rolleiflex), be less money than @Kevin Allan suggested, hopefully will be in the classifieds later this week!

 

[Downhill Specialist]

I worked for a few years in film camera retail (recently) as well as having owned a few so have handled a lot (most) options that you would consider.

IMO your best bang for buck here would be a Mamiya C330 variant with 80mm lens. I THINK you would still get one of the pro models (S or F) if you shop around.

Bright viewfinder. interchangeable lenses later should you decide to, sharp optics. Lovely thing to use.

Second option would probably my a Yashica 124G.

 

[Mr Perceptive]

I worked for a few years in film camera retail (recently) as well as having owned a few so have handled a lot (most) options that you would consider.

IMO your best bang for buck here would be a Mamiya C330 variant with 80mm lens. I THINK you would still get one of the pro models (S or F) if you shop around.

Bright viewfinder. interchangeable lenses later should you decide to, sharp optics. Lovely thing to use.

Second option would probably my a Yashica 124G.

Thats a good shout, but make sure you eat your spinnach, the Mamiya's are not exactly light!

 

[Musicman]

As a happy owner of a 124G, I might suggest it is a bit easier to lug around than a C330, which is a chunky beast

 

[Musicman]

@Raymond Lin Are you looking just for the top-down viewfinder experience or specifically a TLR?

There’s a world of 645 and 6x6 SLRs that have chimney finders too

 

[Raymond Lin]

@Raymond Lin Are you looking just for the top-down viewfinder experience or specifically a TLR?

There’s a world of 645 and 6x6 SLRs that have chimney finders too

I am 90% looking for the top down experience, I know there are twin lens and SLR...I think SLR would be more preferable but not sure if it is more expensive or not. I have done zero research! This is my first step basically here.

TLR looks cooler but SLR would be better for framing.

 

[Downhill Specialist]

Thats a good shout, but make sure you eat your spinnach, the Mamiya's are not exactly light!

I have a P67ii so pretty much everything feels lighter. I have lost all means of comparison

@Raymond Lin Are you looking just for the top-down viewfinder experience or specifically a TLR?

There’s a world of 645 and 6x6 SLRs that have chimney finders too

The problem with a 645 camera with a waist level finder is it's a pain to shoot in portrait format. Square is the way to go with that (IMO) unless you are happy with everything in landscape orientation.

Of course you can add a prism to make it easier but then you lose the waist level aspect.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

I have used Bronica, Flexaret, Hasselblad, Mamiya, Microcord, Minolta, Pentacon, Rolleiflex, Seagull, Semflex and Yashica cameras with waist level finders.

Going by my experience, I'd second the suggestion above of the C330f as offering the best bang for the buck. For economy, the hands down winner is the Seagull 4a. For the best experience of all, the Hasselblad 500c is very hard to beat, though a Rolleiflex 2.8 E2 or F gives it a great run for its money.

I guarantee only one thing - everyone's mileage varies when it comes to choosing a camera.

 

[Topsy]

I have a Yashica-Mat which I like but my go-to for MF film is my Bronica SQ-Ai which complete with 80mm (standard) lens 120 back and WLF will set you back around your budget. Here is one I found with a stroke of Google (Please Note I am not recommending this advert it just came up at the top of the search there are some on eBay as well around the same money). https://www.cameraworld.co.uk/used-...sSsDbw9QOlhOV7OVS1xRHScMTOeSe3SBoCVJwQAvD_BwE

 

[PeterSpencer]

Mamiyaflex, I would suggest the C220 rather than the more complex C330, the latter only works well with later lenses which are compatible with the auto shutter cocking mechanism, whereas the C220 can be used with any Mamiyaflex lens ever made. Of course, any of the earlier models will work as well.

 

[Haych]

I am 90% looking for the top down experience, I know there are twin lens and SLR...I think SLR would be more preferable but not sure if it is more expensive or not. I have done zero research! This is my first step basically here.

TLR looks cooler but SLR would be better for framing.

Don't discount the Rangefinder variants.... Folding bellows rangefinders produce some great images too. I will never sell my Zeiss Superikonta 533/16

From your OP, Rolleiflex cameras command high prices.... The Yashica 124g is the best value TLR.... IMO.

 

[Marino]

I agree with the above about folding cameras. Biggest advantage is they can fit in a pocket. But then again horrible looking through the viewfinder..

 

[soupdragon]

I'll second Bronica.
Sqa or etrsi.

They both have particularly good lenses and accessories.

 

[soupdragon]

I am 90% looking for the top down experience, I know there are twin lens and SLR...I think SLR would be more preferable but not sure if it is more expensive or not. I have done zero research! This is my first step basically here.

TLR looks cooler but SLR would be better for framing.

Not quite sure an slr would be better for framing.
What makes you think that?

 

[Topsy]

A TLR has parralax error between the top and bottom lenses but it isn't noticeable except at closer distances.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

A TLR has parralax error between the top and bottom lenses but it isn't noticeable except at closer distances.

Indeed.

That's why Rollei, Yashica and a few others produced close up lens sets for their TLRs, They came in pairs and that for the upper lens generally had a paralax correction prism.

 

[Rodinal]

Thats a good shout, but make sure you eat your spinnach, the Mamiya's are not exactly light!

Also the Mamiya lenses, good although they are seem to be prone to fungus internally. Especially the 80mm which according to West Yorkshire Cameras this occurs between two rear elements with an air gap that cannot be accessed for cleaning. So just be very careful and examine thoroughly.
The fungus bug also seems to attack Rollieflexes too. Is it because they are quite old and have not been used for a while also Balsam separation rears it's ugly head even on the better Planar/Xenotar lenses too.

Inside your budget is the Rollieflex 'T' models with a Tessar lens and these can be found at sub £500 prices in reasonable condition. Again check for fungus and shutter action they can get sluggish and while they can be serviced back to normal it is an additional expense. Ones without a meter can be cheaper plus the Selenium meters at their advanced age even if they work, can be wildly inaccurate.

Get a good one and it will serve you well for many years

 

[Harlequin565]

I'll put in a vote for a Rolleiflex Automat (K4B). Small, light, 75mm f/3.5 lens, good close focus capability.
Downside is that the viewfinder isn't particularly bright (compared to the RB67 & 503CW I've used) but as a budget WLF TLR, it's been one of my favourites. Great for street photography.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Inside your budget is the Rollieflex 'T' models with a Tessar lens

I've owned two Rollei Ts and they both succumbed to a broken shutter speed tape.

I don't know if I was just unlucky or if it's down to the tape being paper. Never had that problem with any other Rollei TLR or, come to think of it, any other TLR that used tape readouts.

 

[Raymond Lin]

I'll put in a vote for a Rolleiflex Automat (K4B). Small, light, 75mm f/3.5 lens, good close focus capability.
Downside is that the viewfinder isn't particularly bright (compared to the RB67 & 503CW I've used) but as a budget WLF TLR, it's been one of my favourites. Great for street photography.

View attachment 417200

I have watched half a dozen videos over the weekend and the charm of the Rolleiflex has won me over I must admit. I think the 75/3.5f is the one I might go for, from a price/weight POV. Not sure the exact model yet but 3.5f variant.

 

[srichards]

I have an automat. It's geriatric but you can get replacement finders and mirrors so they have a much clearer finder. I did both on mine so it's a lot easier to use. It's nice and light too. Another vote for the Automat

 

[swanseamale47]

Personally I prefered the Yashica the Mamiya. The Mamiyas seemed to have lots of issues in my experience of them (maybe I was unlucky) The Yashica is also a fair bit lighter, and if you get the 635 verson it will do 35mm with a conversion kit.
That said they are getting on a bit now, they came out around 1958 ish. the 124g were more like 1970 something. Tha Mamiya C330 was also around 1970 from memory.

 

[soupdragon]

I'll put in a vote for a Rolleiflex Automat (K4B). Small, light, 75mm f/3.5 lens, good close focus capability.
Downside is that the viewfinder isn't particularly bright (compared to the RB67 & 503CW I've used) but as a budget WLF TLR, it's been one of my favourites. Great for street photography.

View attachment 417200

I'm with you on the viewfinders.
The hasselblad acute matte D screens are a joy to use, especially the split image types.

 

[Rodinal]

I've owned two Rollei Ts and they both succumbed to a broken shutter speed tape.

I don't know if I was just unlucky or if it's down to the tape being paper. Never had that problem with any other Rollei TLR or, come to think of it, any other TLR that used tape readouts.

Probably just plainly and simply worn out.

When I was in the Army in 1960's to late 70's the go to camera for many units was the Rollie T and they were literally hammered to the end of their service. Then around the end of the period, sold off en bloc and replaced with Nikon and other 35mm.models. There was a glut of used ones on the market for a short time and you could pick one up for £100 or so - even with a working meter! It is no surprise that they failed and were probably poorly repaired with whatever was available. But I don't recognise a shutter repair or original construction being made with 'paper', what tape are you referring to.

I bought one (I don't know if it was an ex military version they were rarely marked as such), but it was the camera I kept by far the longest (10+ years) and it never let me down. It is now in Holland being regularly used by my son who lives in Den Haag.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

But I don't recognise a shutter repair or original construction being made with 'paper', what tape are you referring to.

The tape that displays the current shutter speed in the window above the viewing lens.

I'm pretty sure that the tapes in most TLRs, which used the system, were made from some sort of flexible metal, hence their generally "silver" appearance. However, the tapes in the two "T"s I owned were made of something that seemed to be paper based, with a glossy top surface that may have been bonded over the printing to protect it. In both cases, the tape snapped and eventually jammed the movement of the main setting lever. I had one repaired but the second I sold to the same repairman as a spare parts camera.

 

[Jammy Dodger]

You will do extremely well to get a 3.5f for £500!

Unfortunately mine was stolen in a burglary, gorgeous camera.

Here is what I'm saving for:

Serviced Rolleiflex cameras for sale

Your trusted shop for mint pre-selected and already serviced Rolleiflex & Rolleicord mediumformat cameras such as: Rolleiflex 2.8F - Rolleiflex 2.8E - Rolleiflex 2.8D - Rolleiflex 2.8C - Rolleiflex T - Rolleiflex 3.5F - Rolleiflex 3.5E - Rolleiflex MX - Rolleicord VB - Va FREE INTERNATIONAL...

magicflexcamera.com

 

[Jammy Dodger]

Also worth looking at:

Rollei 6008 with 80mm Zeiss lens was a camera I used for years.

Rollei 6008 with 80mm Zeiss lens was a camera I used for years. A stupendous camera, but quite different from the Hasselblad of that era.

www.anatomyfilms.com

The best medium format camera I have used by some margin.

I also really enjoyed using a Bronica SQ-B which was a 'parred down' version of the SQ-A.

The Bronica feels like it will last for years with good lenses (I think made by Nikon originally?)

 

[RaglanSurf]

I want the look down the viewfinder, Rolleiflex experience but don't know where to start.

Not sure what lenses are good but I would like one with a 50mm Eqv, so what focal length is that in a camera like a Rolleiflex?

Budget say £500.

To tell you the truth, I might not put a roll through it for a while, so it might just sit on the shelf as decoration, but want it to still be functional when the time comes.

Have you considered the Rolle SLX or 6000 series? They are really nice to use and the standard 80mm lens is stunning.

 

[moggi1964]

I use a Mamiya C3.

I get photography and cardio and weights all in one walk.

I LOVE my C3.

 

[Raymond Lin]

Have you considered the Rolle SLX or 6000 series? They are really nice to use and the standard 80mm lens is stunning.

I haven't looked too deep yet...I am still open to suggestions. Part of me REALLY want a Rolleiflex of sorts because truth be told, since film is expensive, it will spend most of its life as an ornament than being used.

 

[Rodinal]

Another very good alternative to a Rollie is a Minolta Autocord. I have owned several and the standard Rokkor lens is easily as good as and possibly better than a Tessar or Xenar. Get a good one and you won't regret it. Expect to pay around £150-200 for one in 1st class order and possibly cased as well. The lens hood and filters are Bayonet 1 so no shortage there They are a shed load better constructed than a Yashicamat and the little bit extra weight lets you know there are no plastics involved. I found them easier to focus as well because, instead of a focussing knob on the side, there is a lever under the taking lens that moves from side to side to move the lens panel in or out as required. I would have another today if I could find a good one (Not off EBAY thank you!)

 

[ChrisR]

Another very good alternative to a Rollie is a Minolta Autocord. I have owned several and the standard Rokkor lens is easily as good as and possibly better than a Tessar or Xenar. Get a good one and you won't regret it. Expect to pay around £150-200 for one in 1st class order and possibly cased as well. The lens hood and filters are Bayonet 1 so no shortage there They are a shed load better constructed than a Yashicamat and the little bit extra weight lets you know there are no plastics involved. I found them easier to focus as well because, instead of a focussing knob on the side, there is a lever under the taking lens that moves from side to side to move the lens panel in or out as required. I would have another today if I could find a good one (Not off EBAY thank you!)

Seconded!

EDIT: An advantage I believe is that the film path is straight (unlike many others) so you don't get a kink in the film if you leave a film part used for some time.

 

[Rodinal]

Seconded!

EDIT: An advantage I believe is that the film path is straight (unlike many others) so you don't get a kink in the film if you leave a film part used for some time.

Of that I wasn't aware and that is a good point. Possibly because when I was using one I nearly always finished the film the same day it was started so I wouldn't have noticed it anyway. (It cost a lot less then too)

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Of that I wasn't aware and that is a good point. Possibly because when I was using one I nearly always finished the film so I wouldn't have noticed it anyway. (It cost a lot less then too)

To be fair, in the fifty years I used roll film, I never noted an image being affected by a bend in the film path.

 

[Jammy Dodger]

To be fair, in the fifty years I used roll film, I never noted an image being affected by a bend in the film path.

Manufacturers spent ages designing the flattest film path so whilst you didn't notice it others felt it was important to keep the film plane flat.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Manufacturers spent ages designing the flattest film path so whilst you didn't notice it others felt it was important to keep the film plane flat.

If it was in any way a problem, why did so many manufacturers, including Werkstatt für Feinmechanik und Optik, Franke & Heidecke design their cameras with that relatively sharp bend between the feed spool and the film gate?

 

[FruitFlakes]

If you don’t care about a working meter you could probably find a Rollei 3.5F for around £500.

Have a look at the Bronica SQ cameras as well. Basically a more affordable version of a Hasselblad.

 

[Rodinal]

If it was in any way a problem, why did so many manufacturers, including Werkstatt für Feinmechanik und Optik, Franke & Heidecke design their cameras with that relatively sharp bend between the feed spool and the film gate?

Probably because in their eyes there was no problem. However in I think about every 35mm camera I know of the cassette to take up spool doesn't have a sharp bend either, so there may be a an element of truth in what has been suggested.