The camera is going in the bin !

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srichards said:
Are you sure you're actually loading the film correctly in the camera and it's winding on properly?
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Hi @srichards , 100% sure. I've used film cameras since the early 80's. The R3M is fully manual. It's easy to see when the films properly engaged since you take the first couple of shots with the back open.
 
Can we clarify a few things?.
Is the film totally clear as in no edge numbers no film make etc? or are the numbers showing ok.
Secondly have all your films gone to the same lab and roughly over how long have the problem been showing up.
Finally have you had any good films back from this camera??
 
adrianday said:
Thanks for your kind offer. Unfortunately, I won't be able to take you up on it. Have just discovered my passport needs renewing. Have to go to Peterborough tomorrow to get a new one.
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Have you checked if you need visas or innoculations, seems you've left everything a bit late, or is all this a massive wind-up?
 
swanseamale47 said:
Can we clarify a few things?.
Is the film totally clear as in no edge numbers no film make etc? or are the numbers showing ok.
Secondly have all your films gone to the same lab and roughly over how long have the problem been showing up.
Finally have you had any good films back from this camera??
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Hi @swanseamale47 , There are numbers and film type on the negatives and the contact prints. The scan filenames contain a reference to the frames but they're all entirely black so it doesn't seem to make much difference which one you look at. The interesting thing is that I would have expected to see some variation in the grain size between ISO 50 and ISO 3200 but can't see any. Are modern films ISO invariant like modern DLSRs?
 
adrianday said:
Are modern films ISO invariant like modern DLSRs?
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Well I think that settles the "is this a wind-up?" debate. Well played, sir.
 
MatBin said:
Have you checked if you need visas or innoculations, seems you've left everything a bit late, or is all this a massive wind-up?
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No visa is required for The Maldives. You get a free 30-day visa when you arrive. Similarly, there's no absolute need for any particular vaccinations. We're stopping in a 5-star resort so I don't expect any problems with water, etc.
 
adrianday said:
Hi @swanseamale47 , There are numbers and film type on the negatives and the contact prints. The scan filenames contain a reference to the frames but they're all entirely black so it doesn't seem to make much difference which one you look at. The interesting thing is that I would have expected to see some variation in the grain size between ISO 50 and ISO 3200 but can't see any. Are modern films ISO invariant like modern DLSRs?
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Ok you now have a major problem, if the numbers show up on the film that means it's being developed but theres some sort of problem with the camera. It needs to go back or be checked by an expert before you even think about doing a wedding with it.
 
swanseamale47 said:
Ok you now have a major problem, if the numbers show up on the film that means it's being developed but theres some sort of problem with the camera. It needs to go back or be checked by an expert before you even think about doing a wedding with it.
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Hi @swanseamale47 , I haven't got the time to send it anywhere. Given that it's a mechanical camera, would it be okay to apply a little WD-40 to the moving parts? I'd never dream of doing this with a DSLR because of all of the electronics. I've got a fairly new spray can in the garage with a long red straw that allows you to apply the oil quite precisely. I'm running out of ideas. Please help.
 
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adrianday said:
Hi @swanseamale47 , I haven't got the time to send it anywhere. Given that it's a mechanical camera, would it be okay to apply a little WD-40 to the moving parts? I'd never dream of doing this with a DSLR because of all of the electronics. I've got a fairly new spray can in the garage with a long red straw that allows you to apply the oil quite precisely. I'm running out of ideas. Please help.
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Have you checked the black cloth you put over your head is still lightproof?
 
adrianday said:
Hi @swanseamale47 , There are numbers and film type on the negatives and the contact prints. The scan filenames contain a reference to the frames but they're all entirely black so it doesn't seem to make much difference which one you look at. The interesting thing is that I would have expected to see some variation in the grain size between ISO 50 and ISO 3200 but can't see any. Are modern films ISO invariant like modern DLSRs?
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Are you using a UV filter? Some Voigtlander lenses are supplied with a specialised filter that also absorbs wavelengths between 300 and 700nm. You might want to try shooting half a dozen test rolls with and without this accessory to see if it makes a difference.
 
MatBin said:
Have you checked the black cloth you put over your head is still lightproof?
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Hi @MatBin, I haven't got a black cloth but do use a large changing bag to change films when I'm taking pinhole photographs. I had thought of taking one with me to The Maldives for the wedding but given the likely brightness, I'd expect the exposure to be too short to control adequately without risking overexposure.
 
adrianday said:
Hi @swanseamale47 , I did a bracketing test a few weeks ago. The aperture works perfectly. It's a 40mm,f1/1.4 Nokton Classic. As I mentioned, I send my film away so probably can't guarantee it'll be processed in the same developer. I've sent many separate batches of films to the same place and they always come back the same. Could it be something to do with the postal service? Would a courier be better??
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Your taking the p*** now. "Could it be something to do with the postal service".:lock:
 
adrianday said:
Hi @swanseamale47 , I haven't got the time to send it anywhere. Given that it's a mechanical camera, would it be okay to apply a little WD-40 to the moving parts? I'd never dream of doing this with a DSLR because of all of the electronics. I've got a fairly new spray can in the garage with a long red straw that allows you to apply the oil quite precisely. I'm running out of ideas. Please help.
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No, do not apply WD40. Cameras use a special grease.
I would suggest you beg steal or borrow another camera and use that, even your phone camera is better than one that you know doesn't work. What about hiring one, there was someone on here did hires, cant remember the user name now though.
Film camera are dirt cheap second hand, they go for for a few quid these days with a lens.
I really don't see the point of you going if your the photographer and the camera is having some sort of issue.
Contact the Bride and Groom mayby they can scrounge a camera from somewhere, someone kindly offered a lend on this thread.
 
Oh FFS. I use my cooker on fully manual, put the temp dial up to the max and fell asleep in the garden for an hour. My oven chips are burnt so my oven much be faulty and I need to throw it in the bin, along with the chips. It can't be my cooking as I cooked a burger on the bbq fine at the weekend.

Mind you, talking of burnt, I am. I know I didn't put sun cream on but it must be the suns fault. Do I put it into the recycling bin or normal rubbish. It says no hot embers on the side of the bin...

:D
 
If the film is loaded correctly and is winding on and frame numbers are present on the developed film and the film is completely clear and the shutter is working (as verified by shooting with the back open and looking for the light coming through the lens) and there is no card or other obstruction in the camera in front of the film then all's that's left is that you're not taking the lens cap off. It's a rangefinder, so you aren't looking through the lens and you'll still see an image with a lens cap on or even no lens on.
 
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swanseamale47 said:
No, do not apply WD40. Cameras use a special grease.
I would suggest you beg steal or borrow another camera and use that, even your phone camera is better than one that you know doesn't work. What about hiring one, there was someone on here did hires, cant remember the user name now though.
Film camera are dirt cheap second hand, they go for for a few quid these days with a lens.
I really don't see the point of you going if your the photographer and the camera is having some sort of issue.
Contact the Bride and Groom mayby they can scrounge a camera from somewhere, someone kindly offered a lend on this thread.
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Hi @swanseamale47 , The only thing remotely like grease I've got is some styling wax the missus uses occasionally. It's probably not the right thing at all but I'll give it a try if you think it's worth it. What's the best way to apply it?

I've had a look on eBay and there are quite a few cameras but, like I've said, I'm flying Thursday and even if I was able to get another camera, how would I know it was working?

I'm not sure that contacting the bride and groom is the right thing to do at such short notice. Does anyone know if you can buy film cameras in the Duty Free area of Gatwick?
 
adrianday said:
Hi @swanseamale47 , The only thing remotely like grease I've got is some styling wax the missus uses occasionally. It's probably not the right thing at all but I'll give it a try if you think it's worth it. What's the best way to apply it?

I've had a look on eBay and there are quite a few cameras but, like I've said, I'm flying Thursday and even if I was able to get another camera, how would I know it was working?

I'm not sure that contacting the bride and groom is the right thing to do at such short notice. Does anyone know if you can buy film cameras in the Duty Free area of Gatwick?
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Your obviously talking the p**s now, clearly styling wax is going to f**k up your camera big time.
As for the second hand camera and how would you know it's working, ask yourself, even if it's not working it's no worse that the one you have now.
As they say on dragons den, "I'm out".
 
DO NOT USE ANY GREASE OR WD-40

If all you've told us is correct, then lubrication will not make any difference. There's a physical object that is blocking the light somewhere between the front of the lens and the film plane. It might be a black filter; it might be a lens cap, it might be a piece of card put in to protect the shutter. But there must be something like that present.

If this isn't the case, you've made a false statement somewhere.
 
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I thought is was a wind ON not UP :exit:

There is one other possible solution that Sue has just turned up in that it is possible (in the sense that there seems to be at least one instance of it happening) that a badly loaded film can interfer with the shutter and prevent it firing - the silm still winds on, but the shutter is unable to fire. Of course, a simple way of checking this would be to open the shutter on bulb and, with the lens off, just look through the front and see if you could see the film. This would indicate whether the film was making it to behind the shutter, and that the shutter opened.

If the camera only works on bulb, then a few stacked ND and polarising filters might let the wedding be shot on B. Even half a second is long enough to see if you can see film.
 
adrianday said:
What should I use instead?
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Either a camera repair man or nothing. Please, please confirm that you're taking the lens cap off, and that you have tried seeing what happens from the front when using B with no lens on.

The situation as described simply can't happen.

And with that, I'm out. Either this is a wind up, or we won't get anywhere.

Please pass my sympathies on to the bride and groom about their wedding photos.
 
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StephenM said:
I thought is was a wind ON not UP :exit:

There is one other possible solution that Sue has just turned up in that it is possible (in the sense that there seems to be at least one instance of it happening) that a badly loaded film can interfer with the shutter and prevent it firing - the silm still winds on, but the shutter is unable to fire. Of course, a simple way of checking this would be to open the shutter on bulb and, with the lens off, just look through the front and see if you could see the film. This would indicate whether the film was making it to behind the shutter, and that the shutter opened.

If the camera only works on bulb, then a few stacked ND and polarising filters might let the wedding be shot on B. Even half a second is long enough to see if you can see film.
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Hi @StephenM, are you saying I should use flash? I've got one with a reasonably high GN that should work with the R3M. I hadn't thought of that given that the ceremony will be on the beach. I'll give it a try.
 
adrianday said:
Hi @swanseamale47 , The only thing remotely like grease I've got is some styling wax the missus uses occasionally. It's probably not the right thing at all but I'll give it a try if you think it's worth it. What's the best way to apply it?

I've had a look on eBay and there are quite a few cameras but, like I've said, I'm flying Thursday and even if I was able to get another camera, how would I know it was working?

I'm not sure that contacting the bride and groom is the right thing to do at such short notice. Does anyone know if you can buy film cameras in the Duty Free area of Gatwick?
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I see Nikon is still listing the F6 and FM10 in the Maldives:

http://mv.nikon-asia.com/en_MV/products/categories/fslr?

I would just bill the Happy Couple for a new camera under 'incidental expenses' - probably the F6, to be sure of great results. Just tell Nikon you are a VIP member of Talk Photography, and they should be happy to courier one to your hotel room within 30 minutes. And with a full guarantee, what could possibly go wrong?
 
I have a great recipe for salmon and asparagus quiche with a potato rosti crust.
It might help, it's one of the first things I try when things aren't going well.

That said, Cabernet Sauvignon is a well known panacea.
 
adrianday said:
Hi @StephenM, are you saying I should use flash? I've got one with a reasonably high GN that should work with the R3M. I hadn't thought of that given that the ceremony will be on the beach. I'll give it a try.
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I don't think that an electronic flash gun will give out enough light, given the strength of the sunlight and the fact that the beach will be bouncing the sunlight back. I think that the only solution is to use flash powder, or magnesium ribbon. I haven't checked the probable light, and I don't know the time of day, but I think that if you use (say) 5lbs (2.5 kilos) of magnesium, it should be enough light to reach the film.

And now I am out.
 
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Re the Voigtlander R3M

I read the spec as it having built-in TTL metering but you are using a handheld lightmeter.

I know this is an old style range finder camera (NB oddly I noted you say you see the scene through the VF so why is the film not exposed correctly..........how long have you been shooting film?) But wonder if it 100% relies on its own metering and therefore cannot be used without it '' in action" ~ have you removed the metering batteries........perhaps whatever setting you think you have put in the internal meter is overriding you.

As for any lab issues, have they successfully developed any film from other cameras in the same time frame???
 
StephenM said:
I don't think that an electronic flash gun will give out enough light, given the strength of the sunlight and the fact that the beach will be bouncing the sublight back. I think that the only solution is to use flash power, or magnesium ribbon. I haven't checked the probable light, and I don't know the time of day, but I think that if you use (say) 5lbs (2.5 kilos) of magnesium, it should be enough light to reach the film.
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Hi @StephenM, I'm fairly sure I wouldn't be allowed to take magnesium on the flight but thanks for the suggestion.
 
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