The camera is going in the bin !

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Box Brownie said:
Re the Voigtlander R3M

I read the spec as it having built-in TTL metering but you are using a handheld lightmeter.

I know this is an old style range finder camera (NB oddly I noted you say you see the scene through the VF so why is the film not exposed correctly..........how long have you been shooting film?) But wonder if it 100% relies on its own metering and therefore cannot be used without it '' in action" ~ have you removed the metering batteries........perhaps whatever setting you think you have put in the internal meter is overriding you.

As for any lab issues, have they successfully developed any film from other cameras in the same time frame???
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Hi @Box Brownie, The R3M does have a built-in meter but it won't work without batteries. I prefer using a handheld meter and taking incident readings. The camera should work perfectly without batteries (asides from the meter). It's fully manual. You set the shutter speed and aperture manually. It's very old fashioned. There was a version, the R3A, that had aperture priority but that did require batteries.

I've been shooting film since 1982 so hardly what you'd call a novice.

I'd rather not mention the name of the lab but they are reputable. I dread to think how much black ink of theirs I've used! :eek:

All of the film is kept in the fridge until I need it. Is anyone aware of any vegetables that might in some way affect the film emulsion?
 
Mr Badger said:
Damn, I have an electric cooker! :grumpy: Never mind, I'll try one of those retro 70s recipes tonight and have soup in the basket. :)
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I had scampi and chips in a basket the other day. I think I'll sit in a chair next time. My back's killing me! ;)
 
ancient_mariner said:
Quite frankly, why are you using ISO1600 on a bright, sunny day? In the nicest possible way, I'd suggest the problem with the digital camera is the operator - the Oly takes better shots because it can take over the exposure process completely.
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I am not an expert, but 100% agree with the above. Even I know a low iso for a sunny day :)
 
adrianday said:
Hi @Box Brownie, The R3M does have a built-in meter but it won't work without batteries. I prefer using a handheld meter and taking incident readings. The camera should work perfectly without batteries (asides from the meter). It's fully manual. You set the shutter speed and aperture manually. It's very old fashioned. There was a version, the R3A, that had aperture priority but that did require batteries.

I've been shooting film since 1982 so hardly what you'd call a novice.

I'd rather not mention the name of the lab but they are reputable. I dread to think how much black ink of theirs I've used! :eek:

All of the film is kept in the fridge until I need it. Is anyone aware of any vegetables that might in some way affect the film emulsion?
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Just to clarify

Have you had any film processed by that lab that came back ok plus was any of that from the R3M?

You mentioned trying many rolls of film all massively overexposed.........but are you seriously telling me/us that they printed them (as you say all that black ink used on your prints!) without consulting you you. IMO far from professional...........back in the day any good minlab operator would sticker badly exposed C types. Therefore, even though likely an automated processing line someone at the lab must have seen them and thought "perhaps the customer has a problem......."

AFAIK even poorly stored film should yield a negative showing something........so more likely a lens, camera, exposure issue than lab unless they are 100% cocking up the processing.

Just a thought ~ does the camera have a bulb setting? The reason I ask is that I vaguely recall a quick check for aperture blade checking on manual bodies.

You set Bulb (or perhaps 30s) at max aperture and with the back open with a good light look through the open shutter and then manual start to stop the lens down.......you should see the aperture closing down. If ok then do the same but with the lens at a shooting aperture e.g. f 11 to see if the camera is stopping the lens down at point of shooting.
 
A brilliant piece of trollery, well constructed and maintained with just the right amount of daftness, well done sir, if I was wearing a cap i would now be doffing it.
Now, on a more serious note I too have a camera issue. A Fuji X-T1 with no discernible way of inserting a film, very frustrating as I cannot seem to find a way of opening the back.
Help please as i am shooting a funeral in Antarctica next week.;)
 
Andysnap said:
A brilliant piece of trollery, well constructed and maintained with just the right amount of daftness, well done sir, if I was wearing a cap i would now be doffing it.
Now, on a more serious note I too have a camera issue. A Fuji X-T1 with no discernible way of inserting a film, very frustrating as I cannot seem to find a way of opening the back.
Help please as i am shooting a funeral in Antarctica next week.;)
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Have you tried a hammer and chisel.... worked fine on my Nikon D4, although putting the film in wasn't easy.... :exit:
 
Andysnap said:
Now, on a more serious note I too have a camera issue. A Fuji X-T1 with no discernible way of inserting a film, very frustrating as I cannot seem to find a way of opening the back.
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Ah well you see, that is because you don't open the back. On the rt hand side there is a little door, open that and there is a slot - usually has some sort of weird card in there (called an SD card - think it means sans dust ...). remove that and carefully thread the film in. Its fiddly but ...

btw, brilliant read this thread, well done OP :)
 
PaulButler said:
Ah well you see, that is because you don't open the back. On the rt hand side there is a little door, open that and there is a slot - usually has some sort of weird card in there (called an SD card - think it means sans dust ...). remove that and carefully thread the film in. Its fiddly but ...

btw, brilliant read this thread, well done OP :)
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Yes, i saw that...threw it out as it seemed pointless. The slot is very small, could it be for 110 film?
 
Phil V said:
Thread of the year contender. :clap::clap::clap:
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My favourite part was just how long people held back from poking it to see if it was a troll... just in case he was 'differently talented' and not just taking the whatsit. Mind you, if were Adrian I might be a bit worried about that delay! ;)
 
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I've given up on the R3M.... it's definitely going in the bin!

Have decided to shoot digital. Only problem is I don't know where to put the memory card in my Nikon F6! I've read the manual thoroughly and the only reference I can find is the MV-1 card reader. Can't understand why Nikon don't include this in the box if it's so essential!

On a more serious note, I have a confession to make... I haven't been entirely honest. I hope I haven't offended anyone who may have inadvertently been lured in - that was never my intent. I love this forum and I love the way in which so many people offer constructive and useful advice to people when they ask for it.

You have made my afternoon a little brighter. Thank you all.
 
We could check that. As you know, the basic principle of the latent image is that the light affects a small number - perhaps only one - silver halide ion and reduces it to metallic silver. The developer uses this site to gain a toehold inot the grain to bring about development. Fixer removes silver halide but leaves the metallic silver behind, so if the film were fixed first, there would still be some silver grains.

Add to this the fact that some developers can add silver to atoms already there - they deposit silver on silver - then it is possible to develop after fixing and bring out an image. If this is done, it should settle that question.




PS as a reality check: Despite the oddity of the suggestion, this is actually true (although it needs a more careful and exact explanation) but it is actually something that could be tried in an emergency if a film were fixed first. Results of course are not guaranteed. More details (or a reference if I can find something on the internet that can be believed) on request.
 
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Andysnap said:
A brilliant piece of trollery, well constructed and maintained with just the right amount of daftness, well done sir, if I was wearing a cap i would now be doffing it.
Now, on a more serious note I too have a camera issue. A Fuji X-T1 with no discernible way of inserting a film, very frustrating as I cannot seem to find a way of opening the back.
Help please as i am shooting a funeral in Antarctica next week.;)
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Kenwood do a powered can opener for that.
 
adrianday said:
I've given up on the R3M.... it's definitely going in the bin!
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I hate to think of that happening, as it may contain lead solder somewhere - you might have heard that the EU were so worried about the polution caused when people binned their Hasselblad Xpans after each roll because they thought that they were single use cameras that they banned lead solder.

Tell you what; as my feeble attempt to save the planet if you care to send me the R3M (I'll even pay postage) I promise to despose of it responsibly.
 
adrianday said:
I've given up on the R3M.... it's definitely going in the bin.....................

On a more serious note, I have a confession to make... I haven't been entirely honest. I hope I haven't offended anyone who may have inadvertently been lured in - that was never my intent. I love this forum and I love the way in which so many people offer constructive and useful advice to people when they ask for it.

You have made my afternoon a little brighter. Thank you all.
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Offended no!

But please bare in mind that novices do join TP to learn, hence IMHO and not to rain on your parade a jokey & humourous thread belongs in the OOF sub-fora......not within the more directed fora. Let alone one that you did hijack for your (little) bit of fun.:bat::exit:and :jaffano:
 
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