The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

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David
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I knew this would happen - had a perfect opportunity yesterday and would usually have gone to the cupboard to get the camera - had I not have sold it :rolleyes:

So here I am, having frittered the money I got back when I sold the V, and more, on a rusty old Volkswagen, I now can't afford to buy another V.

Fancy a bit of a challenge - what is the cheapest Fuji X I can buy?

Answers on a postcard please (y)
I bought an X-M1 for £35!!!! But if you loved the V just buy an X100 or X100S (£250-£400) - if you want an ILC then the X-T10 probably offers the best bang for buck, but you'll need to add a lens.
 
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Nick
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I knew this would happen - had a perfect opportunity yesterday and would usually have gone to the cupboard to get the camera - had I not have sold it :rolleyes:

So here I am, having frittered the money I got back when I sold the V, and more, on a rusty old Volkswagen, I now can't afford to buy another V.

Fancy a bit of a challenge - what is the cheapest Fuji X I can buy?

Answers on a postcard please (y)
I bought an X-T10 for my boy, and I was really impressed.... Damn thing is tiny, and paired with my 27mm it's very pocketable. The files from it are lovely, but then I always loved that old X-T1 sensor
 
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I knew this would happen - had a perfect opportunity yesterday and would usually have gone to the cupboard to get the camera - had I not have sold it :rolleyes:

So here I am, having frittered the money I got back when I sold the V, and more, on a rusty old Volkswagen, I now can't afford to buy another V.

Fancy a bit of a challenge - what is the cheapest Fuji X I can buy?

Answers on a postcard please (y)
I'd go for a X-E1, I think I paid about £100 for mine and love it. As long as you don't need continuous AF it'll produce great images.
 
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Paul
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I knew this would happen - had a perfect opportunity yesterday and would usually have gone to the cupboard to get the camera - had I not have sold it :rolleyes:

So here I am, having frittered the money I got back when I sold the V, and more, on a rusty old Volkswagen, I now can't afford to buy another V.

Fancy a bit of a challenge - what is the cheapest Fuji X I can buy?

Answers on a postcard please (y)
My T2 might be cheap enough for you ;)

Welcome back, mate :)
 
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I knew this would happen - had a perfect opportunity yesterday and would usually have gone to the cupboard to get the camera - had I not have sold it :rolleyes:

So here I am, having frittered the money I got back when I sold the V, and more, on a rusty old Volkswagen, I now can't afford to buy another V.

Fancy a bit of a challenge - what is the cheapest Fuji X I can buy?

Answers on a postcard please (y)
Never mind that, what's the rusty old Volkswagen? Something air-cooled?
 
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Anyone having success with eye AF?
Trying it today with my X-S10. Getting green square confirmation but images are out of focus. AF-S Shutter half press, getting confirmation and full press. Static subject.
Tried it with 35 f1.4 and Viltrox 23 f1.4
 
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Anyone having success with eye AF?
Trying it today with my X-S10. Getting green square confirmation but images are out of focus. AF-S Shutter half press, getting confirmation and full press. Static subject.
Tried it with 35 f1.4 and Viltrox 23 f1.4
IMHO Fuji's Eye AF lags behind the competitors (significantly), its much better with a fast focusing lens though - which the 35mm F1.4 isn't - its certainly nothing special
 
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Pretty happy with the eye af on my xt30, rarely misses for me

its as good as it needs to be , though I haven't used it for kids or sports or anything

But for portraits its plenty goof enough

Used with the 50mm f2 and viltrox 85 mostly, though seems fine with the 27mm and the 18-55 too
 
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IMHO Fuji's Eye AF lags behind the competitors (significantly), its much better with a fast focusing lens though - which the 35mm F1.4 isn't - its certainly nothing special
Thanks David. The annoying thing is getting confirmation but blurry results. Thankfully I’ve got Sony to fall back on.
 
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I still feel that eye tracking is a bit of a crutch, I see many photographers have come to almost depend on it. They seem lost when it's not there or isn't lightening fast. Never touch any eye or face detect personally and never felt I need it, but then I don't do much by way of fast shooting - rarely use the like of CL/CH shutter modes either. WHat I never depended on I can't miss, maybe best to stay away from it in that case :D

In saying that, if it's a static-ish subject, say a posed portrait, it really should be locking on.
 
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Fuji Dave

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Anyone having success with eye AF?
Trying it today with my X-S10. Getting green square confirmation but images are out of focus. AF-S Shutter half press, getting confirmation and full press. Static subject.
Tried it with 35 f1.4 and Viltrox 23 f1.4

I have just been looking at the X-S10, and then saw a new X-E3...lol
 

Fuji Dave

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Fuji Dave

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Why not go old school, and get a film camera, for a change?

The last day or so I have been trying to find where to get a camera converted to Infrared, as one of my Sony's I never use now.
 
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Lol.

It's a '68 Bug. Here is a pic but it wasn't taken with a Fuji X so I will remove it if I get told off (y) ;)


'68 Rat Look VW Beetle
by The Development, on Flickr
Yeh that'll do. Full resto or run it ratty?
Never had a bug but I have had....
70 bay westfalia
64 splitscreen double cab pick up
69 Porsche 912
69 bay tin top westfalia
 
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Fuji Dave

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In my experience with the newer gen lenses it pretty much does

I don't own the 35mm 1.4
I've not had any such issues either, and my H1 is hardly new gen, last gen at best. It could be some AF setting others have set, probably in continuous AF too - something I rarely ever use.

I've owned that lens twice, and had different experiences with it both times. Originally it lived on my old X-T1, loved that combination, also had an xpro1 and it was real nice on there too. This was in the time just before speedy AF was top tier on people's wish list, it's never been on mine so simple combinations like that can do pretty much all i need. The second time out, I bought a brand new one for my X-H1, and just never clicked with it. I think I had a better copy first time, images were sharper with the lens wide open, or maybe my eye had improved? and I'm much more critical? either way, the speed of the AF was never a hinderance, more that I just didn't think as much of the images this time around, I wasn't seeing that 'magic' that people speak of when referring to that particular lens. And it wasn't the H1 sensor, as I really like the results I get from the much cheaper XC35 F2 with the H1 - which makes it a bit odd for me, as I'd like to upgrade it - that was the plan when I bought it, as a filler - but I don't think the XF 35s nor the 23 F2 will serve me any better. I would like to try the 23 1.4 but it's a whole other ballpark price-wise.
 
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I bought an X-M1 for £35!!!! But if you loved the V just buy an X100 or X100S (£250-£400) - if you want an ILC then the X-T10 probably offers the best bang for buck, but you'll need to add a lens.
I bought an X-T10 for my boy, and I was really impressed.... Damn thing is tiny, and paired with my 27mm it's very pocketable. The files from it are lovely, but then I always loved that old X-T1 sensor
I'd go for a X-E1, I think I paid about £100 for mine and love it. As long as you don't need continuous AF it'll produce great images.
My T2 might be cheap enough for you ;)

Welcome back, mate :)
Thanks for all the suggestions. Actually, a big part of what I enjoyed was the OVF so another X100 series camera would make sense. I notice the X100F has disappeared from the Fuji UK Refurb store now too.

ETA: I think my mental issues are more likely to be the root cause!
 
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I bought an X-T10 for my boy, and I was really impressed.... Damn thing is tiny, and paired with my 27mm it's very pocketable. The files from it are lovely, but then I always loved that old X-T1 sensor
I love my X-T10, it's been knocking around for 5 years now, often just as a backup or left in the car just in case. Still to this day doesn't really feel out of place alongside whatever I'm using as a main camera...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/harry_s/albums/72157718313352463
 
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Are you 'shooting from the hip' when taking these? i.e, are you on the move? Looking closer on Flickr there seems a touch of camera shake in the colour image [check the brick work and the man, there's a tiny bit of motion like you moved while firing. You could up the ISO a stop to 800 and this would allow you to double the shutter speed. Or, you could have shot at F/4, which allows for the same. It's just a matter of balance, you'll get a feel for what settings suit the situation, after some time you can look at a scene and dial in the settings before taking a shot. I love driving people nuts by saying things like 'That's ISO 3200 weather right there" :D You're doing fine though, being new to manual settings, took me a while to really get the exposure triangle into my head. But it does become second nature. On the move, shooting street though, I would prefer going with a semi auto mode , I like Aperture priority, set that and the camera will take care of shutter speed and ISO -some prefer shutter priority where 'freezing' the moment without any motion blur is important. I don't mind any of these modes, there's little between them only full manual is better suited to when you can take your time each shot.
Thanks for the info. Yeah all on the move, sometimes use a tripod at night but only if it's for a longer exposure. I was using aperture priority on my old camera which did give good results most of the time, I wanted to have a go with manual though
 
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Thanks for the info. Yeah all on the move, sometimes use a tripod at night but only if it's for a longer exposure. I was using aperture priority on my old camera which did give good results most of the time, I wanted to have a go with manual though
In general I shoot manual mode mostly, Fuji cameras make it that bit easier as you can just look down and see all your settings right off - mostly I will lock in on the aperture I want first, then consider a workable shutter speed for the image I desire [using the X-H1 so for still images I can get away with slower SS] , then adjust ISO. Some might do it other way round, but I'm usually looking for a specific look first, cleaner image is less important - 'usually'. You have a very good grasp on manual already, just a matter of practice makes perfect
 
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