The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

One from yesterday Morning

Seat With a view by Andrew Duxbury, on Flickr


That's one very nice shot Andrew, great composition, lovely light, and some nice distant mist.(y)

"One small nit pick/gripe, it might have been a good idea just to clone out that bit of white carp on the ground in front of the seat".

George.
 
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That's one very nice shot Andrew, great composition, lovely light, and some nice distant mist.(y)

"One small nit pick/gripe, it might have been a good idea just to clone out that bit of white carp on the ground in front of the seat".

George.

Totally agree and now done

Seat With a view by Andrew Duxbury, on Flickr
 
"Excellent" Andrew, 10 out of 10 sir.:):)

George.
 
Had a quick play this afternoon with my newly arrived Canon 35mm tilt shift lens. This is a Canon FD mount lens, very nicely made and my copy looks to be in good condition for a lens made in the 1970s (I think). This is an 11 shot pano - 3 columns of 4 landscape orientation shots, with one dropped as it was messing up the stitching in Lightroom. 30 second exposures at f11 with a Camdiox ten-stop filter. Each column has the camera in a fixed position but I shift the lens up and down. The top and bottom shots of each column are well into the "red zone" as marked on the shift scale on the lens which I guess means I should expect quality issues. I should have taken the shots in portrait mode I guess but I don't have an L-bracket for my XT1 yet. Anyway, I'm quite happy with the result. It is no masterpiece as the light was very flat but I can see how to use this lens for such shots. Next step is to try out tilting to maximise depth of field.

EDIT: Now I have looked at this a bit more closely, the merge in Lr isn't very good, to say the least. The middle of the bridge is shifted upwards several metres. I will revisit.

1602_TS_012-Pano by Ian, on Flickr
 
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Folks, which adapter are you using to mount Nikon lenses on you X-T1s, please?


Just a cheapy from flea bay Dunc, any one with metal mounts that allows you to hit infinity focus (not all allow this). Never had any problems whatsoever.(y)

George.
 
Cheers George. Are there specific ones that allow full AF control etc.. as some appear to render your lens completely manual?


No matey all focus will be manual and exposure will either be full manual or aperture priority.(y)

George.
 
No matey all focus will be manual and exposure will either be full manual or aperture priority.(y)

George.

Right, thanks for that. So the pricey Metabones ones also provide AF, hence the price? The first one I need can be manual focus for macro work, so no worries there. I will need AF for other purposes, though.
 
Right, thanks for that. So the pricey Metabones ones also provide AF, hence the price? The first one I need can be manual focus for macro work, so no worries there. I will need AF for other purposes, though.


Unless I'm hugely mistaken Dunc, even the Metabones units will not provide auto focus with Nikon lenses on Fuji-X, the electronic contacts I believe you'll find are for aperture/exposure adjustment. I obviously stand to be corrected on this.(y)

George.
 
Unless I'm hugely mistaken Dunc, even the Metabones units will not provide auto focus with Nikon lenses on Fuji-X, the electronic contacts I believe you'll find are for aperture/exposure adjustment. I obviously stand to be corrected on this.(y)

George.

George, from what I'm reading now you're absolutely right. How annoying! When FujiFilm first introduced their digital line I remember them all being F Mount. I wrongly assumed an adapter would be par for the course. Hey, ho. :wacky:
 
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Had a quick play this afternoon with my newly arrived Canon 35mm tilt shift lens. This is a Canon FD mount lens, very nicely made and my copy looks to be in good condition for a lens made in the 1970s (I think). This is an 11 shot pano - 3 columns of 4 landscape orientation shots, with one dropped as it was messing up the stitching in Lightroom. 30 second exposures at f11 with a Camdiox ten-stop filter. Each column has the camera in a fixed position but I shift the lens up and down. The top and bottom shots of each column are well into the "red zone" as marked on the shift scale on the lens which I guess means I should expect quality issues. I should have taken the shots in portrait mode I guess but I don't have an L-bracket for my XT1 yet. Anyway, I'm quite happy with the result. It is no masterpiece as the light was very flat but I can see how to use this lens for such shots. Next step is to try out tilting to maximise depth of field.

1602_TS_012-Pano by Ian, on Flickr

And another one for the wall :eek:

Fujifilm owners, take a bow! :D
 
Had a quick play this afternoon with my newly arrived Canon 35mm tilt shift lens. This is a Canon FD mount lens, very nicely made and my copy looks to be in good condition for a lens made in the 1970s (I think). This is an 11 shot pano - 3 columns of 4 landscape orientation shots, with one dropped as it was messing up the stitching in Lightroom. 30 second exposures at f11 with a Camdiox ten-stop filter. Each column has the camera in a fixed position but I shift the lens up and down. The top and bottom shots of each column are well into the "red zone" as marked on the shift scale on the lens which I guess means I should expect quality issues. I should have taken the shots in portrait mode I guess but I don't have an L-bracket for my XT1 yet. Anyway, I'm quite happy with the result. It is no masterpiece as the light was very flat but I can see how to use this lens for such shots. Next step is to try out tilting to maximise depth of field.

1602_TS_012-Pano by Ian, on Flickr


I'm impressed Ian, very nice bit of work.(y)

George.
 
Standard is a little high around these parts, going to have to up my game before sharing anything else!
 
Had a quick play this afternoon with my newly arrived Canon 35mm tilt shift lens. This is a Canon FD mount lens, very nicely made and my copy looks to be in good condition for a lens made in the 1970s (I think). This is an 11 shot pano - 3 columns of 4 landscape orientation shots, with one dropped as it was messing up the stitching in Lightroom. 30 second exposures at f11 with a Camdiox ten-stop filter. Each column has the camera in a fixed position but I shift the lens up and down. The top and bottom shots of each column are well into the "red zone" as marked on the shift scale on the lens which I guess means I should expect quality issues. I should have taken the shots in portrait mode I guess but I don't have an L-bracket for my XT1 yet. Anyway, I'm quite happy with the result. It is no masterpiece as the light was very flat but I can see how to use this lens for such shots. Next step is to try out tilting to maximise depth of field.

1602_TS_012-Pano by Ian, on Flickr


Ian, very nice, just a note about L brackets, if you are going to do long exposures make sure your remote release fits with the bracket in place!
 
I've had a lot of fun with L brackets and remote releases.
I have a Sunwayfoto bracket which is excellent in either portrait or landscape mode. The problem arises when using a remote release in portrait mode.

There is just not enough room in the side bracket for a remote release. A micro USB simply won't allow you to mount the camera. A 2.5mm jack plug also just won't allow mounting on the head. You need a 90 degree 2.5mm jack plug and even then it is tricky. I went through several plugs and found that they all stood just too proud of the plate to allow easy fitting. I finished up using an old Canon remote which has a very shallow 90° jack plug. It's the only one I found that was trouble free.

Also...if buying an L bracket either get one with a cut out on the vertical bit, or get the hacksaw out. There is so little room in there that inserting and removing plugs becomes annoying. A cut out allows easier access.
 
Thanks for all the feedback my mission this year was to take more pictures but produce better pictures. I've started now shooting in raw and invested in lightroom and I'm happy with what I have produced so far.

Even got 2 likes from Damien Lovegrove for a couple I put on Facebook!!!
 
Hi guys, I need some help with back button focus. How do you guys have it setup? I've confused myself with my X-T10. I thought I set this up before, and just returned to using the camera since xmas (been very busy) and I've literally forgotten everything. I have the AF-L button set to be back button focus and it does focus but... I want to be able to stop the main shutter release button from focusing still in AF-S and AF-C mode. Is this possible? I've been mucking about with it and just making myself more confused.
So to confirm, this is what I want:

1: Pressing AF-L back button once will focus the camera. Now pressing the shutter release button half way will NOT refocus. Pressing it all the way will take a picture at the focus point which was set using AF-L button. Pressing shutter release again and again will still take pictures at the locked focus point and holding shutter release down will take constant pictures at this locked focus point. It will never re-focus.

2: Pressing the AF-L button down and holding it, will provide constant AF using all focus points including zone focus. Then when still holding AF-L button down and pressing the shutter release button all the way down as well, it will take a picture and continue to do so in burst until I take my finger off it. (all burst photos should be in focus and not just the first as it should still be constantly auto focusing throughout). To take single pictures I can also press the shutter down once, then again say 2 seconds later all whilst still holding AF-L and I will get a "freshly focused" image on the latest focal point that AF-L has provided through constant AF. If at any point I want to lock the focus and continue taking pictures, I can return to using it as in 1 above, by taking my finger off of AF-L leaving the focus wherever it last focused on, and continue taking pictures by pressing the shutter release.

I can get close to the above, by setting it to use manual mode and it behaves in this way but only with single point AF and I think less of the AF functionality being used.

Any advice appreciated.
 
mmm. i just pushed the button on one from Amazon. i'll run off and check. Can you do bulb LEs with the phone remote?

What's required is a good old fashioned cable release which is easier to use than faffing around with an app and doesn't drain your phone battery !

You can pick them up on eBay for about £4, make long exposures (2-3 minutes). It's much more useful than an app which limits your creativity. If you want to use an ND 10 or big stopper with a small aperture you need a cable release.
 
What's required is a good old fashioned cable release which is easier to use than faffing around with an app and doesn't drain your phone battery !

You can pick them up on eBay for about £4, make long exposures (2-3 minutes). It's much more useful than an app which limits your creativity. If you want to use an ND 10 or big stopper with a small aperture you need a cable release.

No manual cable release on the X-T1 shutter button, so has to be done with an electrical cable of some sort! Then the challenge comes of using a connector with an Arca style L bracket in place, so you can still mount in portrait mode on a tripod.
 
Hi guys, I need some help with back button focus. How do you guys have it setup? I've confused myself with my X-T10. I thought I set this up before, and just returned to using the camera since xmas (been very busy) and I've literally forgotten everything. I have the AF-L button set to be back button focus and it does focus but... I want to be able to stop the main shutter release button from focusing still in AF-S and AF-C mode. Is this possible? I've been mucking about with it and just making myself more confused.
So to confirm, this is what I want:

1: Pressing AF-L back button once will focus the camera. Now pressing the shutter release button half way will NOT refocus. Pressing it all the way will take a picture at the focus point which was set using AF-L button. Pressing shutter release again and again will still take pictures at the locked focus point and holding shutter release down will take constant pictures at this locked focus point. It will never re-focus.

2: Pressing the AF-L button down and holding it, will provide constant AF using all focus points including zone focus. Then when still holding AF-L button down and pressing the shutter release button all the way down as well, it will take a picture and continue to do so in burst until I take my finger off it. (all burst photos should be in focus and not just the first as it should still be constantly auto focusing throughout). To take single pictures I can also press the shutter down once, then again say 2 seconds later all whilst still holding AF-L and I will get a "freshly focused" image on the latest focal point that AF-L has provided through constant AF. If at any point I want to lock the focus and continue taking pictures, I can return to using it as in 1 above, by taking my finger off of AF-L leaving the focus wherever it last focused on, and continue taking pictures by pressing the shutter release.

I can get close to the above, by setting it to use manual mode and it behaves in this way but only with single point AF and I think less of the AF functionality being used.

Any advice appreciated.

Back button focussing??? If you must!
There is a long discussion on the Fuji Forum about this.
Unfortunately most of the posters are American so their replies tend to be dictatorial (Don't upset them or they will bomb you!)
Goes into this in so much detail that my eyes started to glaze over, but you might find it useful......

http://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/back-button-focus-on-my-new-to-me-xt1.52158/page-4#post-540845
 
No manual cable release on the X-T1 shutter button, so has to be done with an electrical cable of some sort! Then the challenge comes of using a connector with an Arca style L bracket in place, so you can still mount in portrait mode on a tripod.
Yes. There has to be some form of electrical involvement. There is no place for a manual release to be attached.
Even the trigger trap 90 degree connectors stand a little proud for normal L brackets. You could always remove the little door which would simply things, otherwise you have to search around a bit. Been there, done that, got the T shirt.
 
What's required is a good old fashioned cable release which is easier to use than faffing around with an app and doesn't drain your phone battery !

You can pick them up on eBay for about £4, make long exposures (2-3 minutes). It's much more useful than an app which limits your creativity. If you want to use an ND 10 or big stopper with a small aperture you need a cable release.

Yeah, I've got one for all my other Fujis but as noted, no fitting for a manual cable on an XT1. Must admit, I don't like using the cables. Based on no evidence whatsoever, I feel they are a bit too heavy and stiff and so worry that when they swing in the wind they will move the camera. Electronic switches are more flexible so I can wrap them round the tripod head so they don't move.
 
You can use Yongnuo RF 603 Mark II triggers. I do. Get a trigger trap r/h cable to allow nearly ideal portrait mode. I use these nearly all the time. Only thing they don't do is lock the shutter for long exposures. One sits on the hotshoe with the short cable to the socket and the other lives in your hand/pocket. Nothing left to swing around.
 
You can use Yongnuo RF 603 Mark II triggers. I do. Get a trigger trap r/h cable to allow nearly ideal portrait mode. I use these nearly all the time. Only thing they don't do is lock the shutter for long exposures. One sits on the hotshoe with the short cable to the socket and the other lives in your hand/pocket. Nothing left to swing around.

Good idea. I have a trigger set like this lying around somewhere from my old Canon shooting days. I will test if it works on Fujis. Many thanks
 
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