The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

stickyfiddle said:
Safe to say it works just fine then! I'm probably more interested in the single long-exposure milky way stuff than trails atm, but flickr suggests many have had success with both.

How good a tripod do these kind of shots require? I worry my super-cheap Hama may not be up to it..
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If you are going for single long exposure, make sure you turn off Long Exposure NR

When ON, Long Exposure NR, takes a second image - (same time as the first), and performs some image processing (probably an image subtraction) to remove any hot pixels. In reality what this does is mean that you can't use the camera for another shot until the Long Exposure NR image has completed. If you are doing a 10 min expsoure, that means your first shot takes 20 mins!!!

If you unlucky enough to get hot pixels, you can remove them post processing.
 
Yes, I should have mentioned turning off NR. There is another thread on here:-
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/star-trails-gone-a-bit-wrong.621132/#post-7346780
and his first picture is a classic example of what happens when you have NR switched on. Unfortunately it doesn't look as though he can turn it off. You can and should do so. There is no real need to ever turn it on. When I was doing the Ribblehead shot the guy I was with also had NR turned on. He didn't know it was on and couldn't work out why his camera was behaving oddly. Switch it off, and leave it off - permanently!
 
mickledore said:
Single long exposures should be fine either way. Personal choice but I would use a locking remote and bulb mode.
The first was shot on a 3LT Brian. The second was shot on a Manfrotto carbon fibre jobbie. It really depends how rough the weather will be.
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It's the Abu Dhabi desert so could be very nice and calm but they have forecast storms for the northern regions so risk of high winds. Having said that i'm not sure how easily I could get anything between now and Thursday evening anyway.
 
mickledore said:
Thanks. Just seen this and am composing a reply!

Yes, I've done some star trails. This first one was shot using the intervalometer. Set for 250 images with the minimum of delay inbetween shots. I think it's one second, but in practice the delay had no effect. Either that or Star Stax is even better at joining up trails than I thought!
Ribblehead by Frank Yates2010, on Flickr

This second one was shot using continuous shooting with a locked on remote trigger. I upped the ISO to 1600 for this to try and bring out more colour in the sky.
Formby Point by Frank Yates2010, on Flickr
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Nice shots! The trails looks smoother on the second one - my 2p worth would be that a 1 second gap is a bit much and I use a cheapo cable release which locks down rather than the intervalometer.


Cramond Weir at night by Mike Smith, on Flickr
 
I only tried the intervalometer because it was there! I'd never used one before so I had a go. I went back to cable release for the second shot, just because it seems more natural and I trust it more!
 
If you want a tripod that will not move at all, get a Manfrotto 058B Triaut. I have one and that isnt moving for no one! bit of a chunk to carry about though. I have a few carbon jobbies for other stuff but the Triaut means business for landscape shots.
 
A question on dynamic range.
I've bought a book. Groan. I'm reading it. Fou let groan.
It mentions dynamic range and what it can be used for so I thought I'd have a try. I cannot see the DR 400%. Anyone know why? Book says it must be set manually but it remains greyed out. I presume I have some contract setting but can't see where. Has anyone else tried this? And how?
 
I believe the higher setting need higher iso to be used. Tbh the setting is a con, and doesnt do anything you cant do in post.
 
Yes thanks. I've just found through trial and error that it needs a min ISO of 800. Might have a rethink.
 
mickledore said:
Yes thanks. I've just found through trial and error that it needs a min ISO of 800. Might have a rethink.
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I think DR100 = iso 200, DR200 = ISO 400 etc etc. I just expose for skies, then bring the rest up in post which seems fine for most applications.
 
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Yes, I thought that's what it would do, but I just thought I'd have a play to see what came of it.
As you orginally said it seems more suited for JPEG shooters.
 
DPD tell me they will deliver my XT10 tomorrow, only got the 16-50 to put on it but really looking forward to trying it out. Have read a couple of reviews of the 16-50 and very positive. D750 is a lovely camera but its a bit of a lump to carry around imo.
 
Picked up an XT1 kit yesterday - love it! Can't wait to put it through its paces... I find that images look excellent when viewed through EVF, before and after taking them. However, the same images look rather dull on the rear screen... Is this down to the resolution? I'm yet to put any of the images on my computer to scrutinise, so I'm basing image quality purely on what I'm seeing in-camera.
 
Don't forget that the image on the rear screen is only an in camera processed JPEG. Maybe best not to place too much reliance on it. You are shooting RAW aren't you? (Although some say the in camera JPEGs are excellent)
 
Eddzz!! said:
Picked up an XT1 kit yesterday - love it! Can't wait to put it through its paces... I find that images look excellent when viewed through EVF, before and after taking them. However, the same images look rather dull on the rear screen... Is this down to the resolution? I'm yet to put any of the images on my computer to scrutinise, so I'm basing image quality purely on what I'm seeing in-camera.
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EVF = 2.36 million dot in a tiny display.
LCD = 1 million dots, much bigger screen.

Dont judge the images before you use a computer. Nobody views final images on an EVF.
 
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twist said:
EVF = 2.36 million dot in a tiny display.
LCD = 1 million dots, much bigger screen.

Dont judge the images before you use a computer. Nobody views final images on an EVF.
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I thought this may be the case :)
 
I know what you mean. The saturation and brightness seemed a little dull to me on the x-t10 rear screen, especially compared to my x30. Bumped both up by one and now it is close to the evf, but still not as vivid as the x30... X-t10 seems closer to what I get on the computer though.
 
mickledore said:
Don't forget that the image on the rear screen is only an in camera processed JPEG. Maybe best not to place too much reliance on it. You are shooting RAW aren't you? (Although some say the in camera JPEGs are excellent)
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At least one well regarded wedding photographer happily shoots straight to JPEG with his Fuji gear.
 
I only really use the rear screen for composing when the viewfinder is inconvenient, for checking the histogram after shooting, and occasionally to check focus if I think I may have blown it :) Otherwise I don't worry much about how things look there.

Here's one from a couple of weekends back, wandering the mean streets of Oxford as per usual...

Leaving Logic Lane by David Hallett, on Flickr
 
is it just me or does Lightroom really suck for fuji files? sharpening makes it look like an oil painting! Just installed Capture one and its 1000000% times better! although, learning to use it is a nightmare.
 
quango2k said:
is it just me or does Lightroom really suck for fuji files? sharpening makes it look like an oil painting! Just installed Capture one and its 1000000% times better! although, learning to use it is a nightmare.
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I know what you mean. I sharpen much less than my old Canon files.
Having said that, I read an article lately about sharpening x-trans files. "waxing" or the "watercolour effect" is the term for the wierd effect you get.

I can't remember the settings they suggested, I seem to remember bumping the detail slider right up... Let me see if I can dig it up.

Aside from that I think lightroom works well with fuji files, so long as you remember to set the camera calibration, because the Adobe default sucks.

Edit: here it is - http://petebridgwood.com/wp/2014/10/x-trans-sharpening/

Though further reading would suggest other tools may get slightly better results at the extreme pixel peeping level.
 
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quango2k said:
is it just me or does Lightroom really suck for fuji files? sharpening makes it look like an oil painting! Just installed Capture one and its 1000000% times better! although, learning to use it is a nightmare.
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Have you read this? http://petebridgwood.com/wp/2014/10/x-trans-sharpening/

I use that for a base sharpen, usually at around 25 with a lot more masking than he mentions. But I find best control is using High Pass sharpening in Photoshop, masked appropriately. Multiple gentle sharpens are usually better than one big one.

PS I often like a painterly look, so don't judge these techniques by my images!

Edit: crossposted with Jimmy!
 
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Yeah I found that link earlier, even with the suggested settings it's still pretty crap in comparison. Annoying as I love the workflow but the loss of detail is a killer for me.

Looks like I will be sticking with capture one until it's fixed some day.
 
So how much rain can a non sealed lens take? Anybody killed one yet?
 
dave.hallett said:
I only really use the rear screen for composing when the viewfinder is inconvenient, for checking the histogram after shooting, and occasionally to check focus if I think I may have blown it :) Otherwise I don't worry much about how things look there.

Here's one from a couple of weekends back, wandering the mean streets of Oxford as per usual...

Leaving Logic Lane by David Hallett, on Flickr
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The brings back memories - I used to have tutorials in there!
 
quango2k said:
Yeah I found that link earlier, even with the suggested settings it's still pretty crap in comparison. Annoying as I love the workflow but the loss of detail is a killer for me.

Looks like I will be sticking with capture one until it's fixed some day.
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Could also try Rawtherapee, Iridient, Photo Ninja and SilkyPix 7, they are supposed to be the best for fine detail. Im also a little annoyed LR doesnt handle Fuji RAW very well as all the software I use is pretty much Adobe CC and I like the workflow. Its not as if the cameras arent popular so they need to pull their finger out.
 
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quango2k said:
Yeah I found that link earlier, even with the suggested settings it's still pretty crap in comparison. Annoying as I love the workflow but the loss of detail is a killer for me.

Looks like I will be sticking with capture one until it's fixed some day.
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Iridient is good. I use that myself now.
 
Finally got my x-t10 up and running

View: https://youtu.be/SRe_EDrVlZ4


And at the same time I've been getting into the jpegs too, trying out the film simulations and I have to say I'm loving it. I was a stubborn raw guy even since I started with x-series gear but this month I've finally took the plunge.

Love it. I've been testing it mainly on my x30, but also a little with the x-t1 and x-t10. I've set my xpro1 to do the same, though of course it doesn't have classic chrome which I am leaning towards more.

I do like the extra warmth of astia but I need to tone it down a little. I think classic is going to be my go to sim. Finally discovered film bracketing yesterday, which makes it extra fun!

So i'm throwing my test shots on an instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/straight_out_the_camera/
 
quango2k said:
Yeah I found that link earlier, even with the suggested settings it's still pretty crap in comparison. Annoying as I love the workflow but the loss of detail is a killer for me.

Looks like I will be sticking with capture one until it's fixed some day.
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I love LR for Fuji RAW, and I've been using the same technique for sharpening as Peter Bridgewood since I got my Fuji. But I mask as appropriate for the scene. I've tried the others, but can't get any better results. I presume it's a lot to do with how familiar you are with a programme. I've been a LR user since Rawshooter Pro days.
 
Stephen L said:
I love LR for Fuji RAW, and I've been using the same technique for sharpening as Peter Bridgewood since I got my Fuji. But I mask as appropriate for the scene. I've tried the others, but can't get any better results. I presume it's a lot to do with how familiar you are with a programme. I've been a LR user since Rawshooter Pro days.
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same, been using LR for years but side by side there is litterally no comparison! I cannot get the files anywhere near as sharp in LR that I can in Capture one. I have tried every suggestied technique.
 
quango2k said:
same, been using LR for years but side by side there is litterally no comparison! I cannot get the files anywhere near as sharp in LR that I can in Capture one. I have tried every suggestied technique.
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Will the Topaz In-Focus plugin work with LR? I use it with PS and it's good.

Edit: just checked and they do have it for LR:

http://www.topazlabs.com/infocus

I have their whole photography bundle and they're good plugins.
 
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