The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Photopaque said:
I am going to shoot the Red Arrows on Saturday so I don't have a lot of time to practice settings etc. Does anyone have any good tips/settings that are vast for tracking fast moving jets. Thanks!
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Buy a Canon 7D Mk2 :whistle: :exit:
 
Numpty question coming up - when shooting with the 23 today wide open on a few shots only, in aperture priority ISO 200, it overexposed. But even with full exp comp is still did the same. Do I need to switch to electronic shutter ?

Cheers [emoji848]
 
Greggster said:
Numpty question coming up - when shooting with the 23 today wide open on a few shots only, in aperture priority ISO 200, it overexposed. But even with full exp comp is still did the same. Do I need to switch to electronic shutter ?

Cheers [emoji848]
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Check your exif, but yes, you were probably shooting wide open and hitting the mechanical shutter limit. ND or electrical shutter.
 
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Pretty sure you do. Exposure comp won't help when the camera can't physically dial the exposure back (ie max shutter, fixed aperture, min iso). If you shot jpg only it might be able to pull iso down to 100 but that's it.
 
Greggster said:
Numpty question coming up - when shooting with the 23 today wide open on a few shots only, in aperture priority ISO 200, it overexposed. But even with full exp comp is still did the same. Do I need to switch to electronic shutter ?

Cheers [emoji848]
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I think the best thing to do is sell me the 23, problem solved.
 
Even at ISO 100 you can often exceed 1/4000 when shooting outside in good light especially up north when the sun can be low in the sky.

This is something I've been screaming about forever as I hate using ND's. I'm much happier with cameras with a max shutter speed of 1/8000 especially with smaller frame cameras as the temptation is to shoot at wider apertures than you may do with a 35mm camera and thus you can be more likely to hit the maximum shutter speed. In good light it's not unusual to be limited to f2.8 and smaller apertures if your max shutter speed is 1/4000.

I don't know if these Fuji's can exceed 1/4000 but if they can't the options are to close the aperture down until the shutter speed falls below 1/4000 or buy a screw on ND for the largest lens you want to use it on and maybe step up rings for any smaller diameter lenses. Actually another option is to let the highlights blow... it doesn't suite every shot but some it can :D
 
woof woof said:
Even at ISO 100 you can often exceed 1/4000 when shooting outside in good light especially up north when the sun can be low in the sky.

This is something I've been screaming about forever as I hate using ND's. I'm much happier with cameras with a max shutter speed of 1/8000 especially with smaller frame cameras as the temptation is to shoot at wider apertures than you may do with a 35mm camera and thus you can be more likely to hit the maximum shutter speed. In good light it's not unusual to be limited to f2.8 and smaller apertures if your max shutter speed is 1/4000.

I don't know if these Fuji's can exceed 1/4000 but if they can't the options are to close the aperture down until the shutter speed falls below 1/4000 or buy a screw on ND for the largest lens you want to use it on and maybe step up rings for any smaller diameter lenses. Actually another option is to let the highlights blow... it doesn't suite every shot but some it can :D
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The electronic shutter option lets you take the shutter speed well in excess of 1/8000 I think.
 
woof woof said:
Even at ISO 100 you can often exceed 1/4000 when shooting outside in good light especially up north when the sun can be low in the sky.

This is something I've been screaming about forever as I hate using ND's. I'm much happier with cameras with a max shutter speed of 1/8000 especially with smaller frame cameras as the temptation is to shoot at wider apertures than you may do with a 35mm camera and thus you can be more likely to hit the maximum shutter speed. In good light it's not unusual to be limited to f2.8 and smaller apertures if your max shutter speed is 1/4000.

I don't know if these Fuji's can exceed 1/4000 but if they can't the options are to close the aperture down until the shutter speed falls below 1/4000 or buy a screw on ND for the largest lens you want to use it on and maybe step up rings for any smaller diameter lenses. Actually another option is to let the highlights blow... it doesn't suite every shot but some it can :D
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Fuji can do 1/32,000 ES, its awesome.
 
addicknchips said:
The electronic shutter option lets you take the shutter speed well in excess of 1/8000 I think.
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Sounds similar to my Panasonic G7, that camera has the option to automatically switch. Not sure if there'll be an electronic shutter penalties but if there are maybe they wont show up too often in real world pictures.
 
woof woof said:
Is this an option which has to be selected or can it be set to automatically switch to e shutter if required?
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The Fuji has 3 options 1) MS only 2) ES only 3) MS & ES which automatically changes from MS to ES when the required exposure starts hitting MS limits. I have mine set to the FN button for easy access. Have gotten so many shots I wouldnt have gotten with any other MS camera, wide open on the brightest days is a killer feature.
 
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Rolling shutter is an issue on extremely fast moving objects like propellers, other than that you should see no difference in images. For focus tracking in burst mode it needs to be MS though I think.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Rolling shutter is an issue on extremely fast moving objects like propellers, other than that you should see no difference in images. For focus tracking in burst mode it needs to be MS though I think.
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I've never seen that in any of my e shutter shots but I have seen banding under artificial light (with Panasonic, not Fuji) and that could be something to watch out for and consider as if you do get it the shot can be a write off.

Actually it's possibly wise to look for any e shutter effects as I've just thought of another... my GX7 limits the max ISO to 3200 when using the e shutter whilst my G7 doesn't. May also disable flash. Any of these little foibles can throw you off guard when you're just trying to take the shot so it's best to be aware of any.
 
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twist said:
The Fuji has 3 options 1) MS only 2) ES only 3) MS & ES which automatically changes from MS to ES when the required exposure starts hitting MS limits. I have mine set to the FN button for easy access. Have gotten so many shots I wouldnt have gotten with any other MS camera, wide open on the brightest days is a killer feature.
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I have 4 "quality" cameras. The A7 and GX7 both have mechanical shutters that go to 1/8000, the G7 has auto switching to e shutter and only my poor old G1 is limited to 1/4000. IMO all of these smaller frame cameras benefit from having quality wide aperture lenses and from being able to exceed 1/4000 second. It's so nice not to have to faff on with ND's just to get the shutter speed down.
 
Hi

Before I go ahead and buy the X-T10, 2 quick questions:

- Is there a better deal anywhere for the camera and 18-55 + 55-200 lens bundle (compared to the one at Wex)
- Can you switch off the image review in the EVF so that you don't have the image of the picture you've taken flash up each?

Thanks a lot
 
woof woof said:
I've never seen that in any of my e shutter shots but I have seen banding under artificial light (with Panasonic, not Fuji) and that could be something to watch out for and consider as if you do get it the shot can be a write off.

Actually it's possibly wise to look for any e shutter effects as I've just thought of another... my GX7 limits the max ISO to 3200 when using the e shutter whilst my G7 doesn't. May also disable flash. Any of these little foibles can throw you off guard when you're just trying to take the shot so it's best to be aware of any.
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Yup, banding can be an issue under some artificial light but I believe you can avoid it by adjusting SS for the pulse of the light source, haven't really tried as if I'm in artificial light it means I wont be using ES, come to think of it, I used it once under tungsten without issue, I think fluorescent may be the bigger issue.
 
woof woof said:
I've never seen that in any of my e shutter shots but I have seen banding under artificial light (with Panasonic, not Fuji) and that could be something to watch out for and consider as if you do get it the shot can be a write off.

Actually it's possibly wise to look for any e shutter effects as I've just thought of another... my GX7 limits the max ISO to 3200 when using the e shutter whilst my G7 doesn't. May also disable flash. Any of these little foibles can throw you off guard when you're just trying to take the shot so it's best to be aware of any.
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Fuji does ES @ 6400 in RAW, jpg could be even higher.
 
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Thanks for all of the answers to my question, all makes sense now (esp why exp comp wouldn't have any effect [emoji51]). I'll dig into my settings to put it to MS & ES [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
 
bambam said:
Before I go ahead and buy the X-T10, 2 quick questions:

- Is there a better deal anywhere for the camera and 18-55 + 55-200 lens bundle (compared to the one at Wex)
- Can you switch off the image review in the EVF so that you don't have the image of the picture you've taken flash up each?
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I got mine through the Fuji refurb store so take a look there (I only went for the 18-55).

I don't review every pic taken on the screen so yes, it must be possible [emoji4]
 
Wandering around Islington, this bookseller had a great face.
Trying to engage with people rather than taking a candid, so I chatted to him and he
was happy to have his pic taken.


[url=https://flic.kr/p/HmQ88P][/URL]
 
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