The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Info required for my xt1. I want to do some minor macro stuff, and was considering the Tokina 100AF 100mm F/2.8 Macro - Nikon. What alternatives are there, when it comes to a lens adapter? Which is the one that most of you use? I've been told it must be a F to X adapter.
 
Info required for my xt1. I want to do some minor macro stuff, and was considering the Tokina 100AF 100mm F/2.8 Macro - Nikon. What alternatives are there, when it comes to a lens adapter? Which is the one that most of you use? I've been told it must be a F to X adapter.

If the lens has it's own aperture ring then any Nikon to Fuji X adapter will do the trick, something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Be...id=1506599975&sr=1-1&keywords=nikon+to+fuji+x

you lose AF of course.

If it's a newer G-type lens, without the aperture ring, then you'd want an adjustable adapter like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Concept-Ad...id=1506599975&sr=1-8&keywords=nikon+to+fuji+x

I have the second one there, and have used it with a Sigma 150mm macro, Nikon G type. It worked great, but that lens was a beast, weighed 1.2KG. I mostly use an M42 adapter and some old lenses with extension tubes, or just the Fuji 35 1.4 on extension tubes for decent results. If you have a 35mm already, that is the cheapest option. Third party extension rings can be got for £20: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EACHSHOT®-Bayonet-Automatic-Extension-FujiFilm/dp/B014EV2HGU/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506600263&sr=1-4&keywords=fuji+extension+rings

With a 35mm [the shortest you'd really want to try with the rings, though I hear the 27mm is great with them too] you will really only need the 16mm ext ring. You can stack them, but with both the working distance is absoloute minimum, you will touch off your subject at times. You do get AF as the rings have cpu contacts, and you maintain all your exif data, that's what I like about them. Mostly you will want to focus manually though.

With the 35mm + the 16mm extension I can get results like this, which was auto focused, it is very possible with slower moving subjects at f/11 with the added aid of flash 'freeze' - I wouldn't use AF without flash. Also, when using flash don't forget to set the camera to not preview exp

Wrapping the kill by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr

Not 1:1, and you do have to get in real close and generally use off cam flash, but with a little crop you can get nice macro.

With the Tokina you might get better results and you will get greater working distance and you also will have infinity focus, you can use the lens for portraits etc, but it will be all manual, and it's a much pricier option.
 
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I'll be interested to hear your comparison between the T10 & T20 as I've been swaying towards doing similar myself.

Ive had an X-T20 before!!

For me better in low light, lenses such as the 35 1.4 focus slightly faster, you can crop in more due to the new sensor and 24mp, Acros, better AF Tracking and the 4K video. Dont get me wrong the X-T10 is still a great camera and the photos I put up a few days ago where the X-T10 and 16-50 Mk I combo.
 
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A few more garden macro from me, waiting for the atmosphere to get a little more interesting before doing anything much wider outdoors.

It's not often you'd say a Moth was 'cool' or 'cute' but this guy kinda was both:
Brimstone Moth? by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr

Brimstone head on by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr

A sheepish arachnid, wish I knew the proper names for different species
_DSF2675 by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr


"Excellent" set of macro Fujigraphs Sir, well lit, well composed, with some fine detail.(y)

George.
 
If the lens has it's own aperture ring then any Nikon to Fuji X adapter will do the trick, something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Be...id=1506599975&sr=1-1&keywords=nikon+to+fuji+x

you lose AF of course.

If it's a newer G-type lens, without the aperture ring, then you'd want an adjustable adapter like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Concept-Ad...id=1506599975&sr=1-8&keywords=nikon+to+fuji+x

I have the second one there, and have used it with a Sigma 150mm macro, Nikon G type. It worked great, but that lens was a beast, weighed 1.2KG. I mostly use an M42 adapter and some old lenses with extension tubes, or just the Fuji 35 1.4 on extension tubes for decent results. If you have a 35mm already, that is the cheapest option. Third party extension rings can be got for £20: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EACHSHOT®-Bayonet-Automatic-Extension-FujiFilm/dp/B014EV2HGU/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506600263&sr=1-4&keywords=fuji+extension+rings

With a 35mm [the shortest you'd really want to try with the rings, though I hear the 27mm is great with them too] you will really only need the 16mm ext ring. You can stack them, but with both the working distance is absoloute minimum, you will touch off your subject at times. You do get AF as the rings have cpu contacts, and you maintain all your exif data, that's what I like about them. Mostly you will want to focus manually though.

With the 35mm + the 16mm extension I can get results like this, which was auto focused, it is very possible with slower moving subjects at f/11 with the added aid of flash 'freeze' - I wouldn't use AF without flash. Also, when using flash don't forget to set the camera to not preview exp

Wrapping the kill by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr

Not 1:1, and you do have to get in real close and generally use off cam flash, but with a little crop you can get nice macro.

With the Tokina you might get better results and you will get greater working distance and you also will have infinity focus, you can use the lens for portraits etc, but it will be all manual, and it's a much pricier option.


"Excellent" macro Fujigraph Sir, fine detail & well lit.(y)

George.
 
Misty and a river shot that will probably be me then.

Pink and Mist by Graham Norton, on Flickr

Fuji X-T2 and 16-55 f2.8
Graham, that's simply exquisite..!! Love the rule of thirds, neat. Top notch photography Sir! Get that printed and signed and hang proudly on a wall asap.

wOOOw

Regards
Pete
 
just back from a mini break away with the family. took only my newly acquired x-t2 and 35mm f1.4
camera is an absolute joy to use.

untitled-1 by Jonathan Howes, on Flickr


"Cracking" Fujigraph Sir, well composed, great use of aperture/limited dof, and a very nice expression on the childs face.(y)

George.
 
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Some places are your photography nemesis, for me it's been Liverpool Anglican Cathedral, I've always found it difficult to take decent pictures in there (its just so vast - it is the longest cathedral in the world and the 5th largest - and the lighting is very variable), but today (armed with what I learnt photographing the John Rylands Library), I thought I am going to beat this. Here are the first two.


170929 Liverpool Cathedral Lady Chapel 2000px
by David Yeoman, on Flickr


170929 Liverpool Cathedral 2000px
by David Yeoman, on Flickr
 
Some places are your photography nemesis, for me it's been Liverpool Anglican Cathedral, I've always found it difficult to take decent pictures in there (its just so vast - it is the longest cathedral in the world and the 5th largest - and the lighting is very variable), but today (armed with what I learnt photographing the John Rylands Library), I thought I am going to beat this. Here are the first two.


170929 Liverpool Cathedral Lady Chapel 2000px
by David Yeoman, on Flickr


170929 Liverpool Cathedral 2000px
by David Yeoman, on Flickr


I would say you nailed it :) Did you use a tripod? I know some churches don't allow them, if not, even more impressive.

One niggle for me ... and I do hate nit picking, but in the first, it's just the crop, on both the far left and right we see just a tad of the opening of the arch that goes out of frame, keeps catching my eye. Other than that, splendid.
 
Thanks Keith, tripods allowed in Liverpool Anglican Cathedral (but not the Catholic one). The shots I took today were mainly 7 or 9 bracketed shots, I then could pick the range I wanted to merge. Made a real effort not to blow the highlights on the Windows, I'm getting better but still not perfect!!

Also dud a 15 minute exposure to remove loads of people in one bit, but because of the dynamic range, dark parts and bright Windows, there is a far too much noise in the shadows as they are underexposed, same tupend of noise as others have noted, some outside long exposures later in the day didn't have this effect, so I should have done a bracketed long exposure, but 15 minutes on a 9 bracket exposure would be over 2 hours!!!!

Cropping is a definitly an art that I've not yet mastered
 
Thanks Keith, tripods allowed in Liverpool Anglican Cathedral (but not the Catholic one). The shots I took today were mainly 7 or 9 bracketed shots, I then could pick the range I wanted to merge. Made a real effort not to blow the highlights on the Windows, I'm getting better but still not perfect!!

Also dud a 15 minute exposure to remove loads of people in one bit, but because of the dynamic range, dark parts and bright Windows, there is a far too much noise in the shadows as they are underexposed, same tupend of noise as others have noted, some outside long exposures later in the day didn't have this effect, so I should have done a bracketed long exposure, but 15 minutes on a 9 bracket exposure would be over 2 hours!!!!

Cropping is a definitly an art that I've not yet mastered

It was a real nit pick, but it's one of those once you see it things. They are stunning besides. I did wonder about the windows, how you managed not to blow them! That is an area I am very weak with, bracketing or merging of any kind. It might be just pure laziness on my part but I always try find work arounds ... or run away and not take the shot :LOL:
 
Just processing some files tonight, and started playing with this one that was well blown - I had been shooting some garden macro in a shaded area, and then moved to a sunnier spot and didn't change settings, d'oh! anyway, the flash was on, but so was the sun, you know the way ... I think it's a good example of how much detail you can pull back even with the older X-trans sensors. Check out the ground area, to the left of the woodlouse head - looks like detail was completely shot in the original - not so

The image was shot with the XT-1 + 35mm 1.4 + 10mm AF extension ring

xt1 DR by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr
 
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Just processing some files tonight, and started playing with this one that was well blown - I had been shooting some garden macro in a shaded area, and then moved to a sunnier spot and didn't change settings, d'oh! anyway, the flash was on, but so was the sun, you know the way ... I think it's a good example of how much detail you can pull back even with the older X-trans sensors. Check out the ground area, to the left of the woodlouse head - looks like detail was completely shot in the original - not so

The image was shot with the XT-1 + 35mm 1.4 + 10mm AF extension ring

xt1 DR by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr


That's a good Macro Fujigraph, with some fine detail, and very good exposure recovery.(y)

George.
 
That's a good Macro Fujigraph, with some fine detail, and very good exposure recovery.(y)

George.

Cheers George, it's one that didn't make the cut in the end but it shows the dynamic range capabilities of the ol' XT-1 RAW files.
 
Cheers George, it's one that didn't make the cut in the end but it shows the dynamic range capabilities of the ol' XT-1 RAW files.


You sure have come up with some decent exposure recovery Sir.(y)

"It'd be a good one to show when certain others start running down the Fuji-X system again":D:D

George.
 
You sure have come up with some decent exposure recovery Sir.(y)

"It'd be a good one to show when certain others start running down the Fuji-X system again":D:D

George.


Heh, yeah, now we need to gather some sharp foliage landscape shots, preferably taken using old vintage lenses :ROFLMAO:

Which 10mm tube are you using? That is what I was using yesterday for a more 'close' up rather than intense macro garden shots, will post a few in a bit. Mine are just cheap and cheerful, got a set with 10mm + 16mm for £20, they maintain auto focus with Fuji lenses.
 
Heh, yeah, now we need to gather some sharp foliage landscape shots, preferably taken using old vintage lenses :ROFLMAO:

Which 10mm tube are you using? That is what I was using yesterday for a more 'close' up rather than intense macro garden shots, will post a few in a bit. Mine are just cheap and cheerful, got a set with 10mm + 16mm for £20, they maintain auto focus with Fuji lenses.


Probably similar to yours Sir, can't tell you the make right now as I'm away, but they were somethin' cheap from Fleabay but are fully auto etc and work a treat.(y)

George.
 
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