The Official Fuji X Pro 1 Thread

Swanseajack said:
My two weeks are basically up, time to put my claim in for the 60mm.
Click to expand...
Why are you claiming for a 60mm when you are after a 35mm? Think twice about the 60 as it can be very slow and wont be much different to your zoom that you already have.. By the way I find my 18mm lightning fast and comparable with AF with my Nikon D700 and a pro lens.
 
MikeM said:
Why are you claiming for a 60mm when you are after a 35mm? Think twice about the 60 as it can be very slow and wont be much different to your zoom that you already have.. By the way I find my 18mm lightning fast and comparable with AF with my Nikon D700 and a pro lens.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of the 60mm for the Macro, it's something I haven't tried before. We back onto woodlands here and we get quite a bit of wildlife, plus to take photos of plants in the garden.

I want the 35mm as a general walkabout lens, after trying the 18mm I am finding it a bit wide for my general needs. I was thinking if I want to get wider shots I could use the 16mm on my zoom. With the deal I have had, it is costing me £29.00 after the cashback for the 35mm instead of the 18mm. With the 35mm I can use at the footy rather than the zoom lens, as I don't want to try the zoom incase the stewards stop me. I was fine with the 18mm during last game.
 
The 60mm is a close-up rather than a true macro - going by the specs, mine should be delivered this week - and if you're thinking of entering the world of adapted lenses (there is no going back!) then there are a lot of budget options available for macro, which is generally done with manual focus anyway. I agree with Mike, if you want the 35mm and are only getting the 60mm as a macro then I'd claim the 35mm as the free lens. I'm claiming the 60mm as I want that sort of focal length for portraits, and I've already bought the 35mm. I will be using adapted lenses for macro work.
 
Alastair said:
The 60mm is a close-up rather than a true macro - going by the specs, mine should be delivered this week - and if you're thinking of entering the world of adapted lenses (there is no going back!) then there are a lot of budget options available for macro, which is generally done with manual focus anyway. I agree with Mike, if you want the 35mm and are only getting the 60mm as a macro then I'd claim the 35mm as the free lens. I'm claiming the 60mm as I want that sort of focal length for portraits, and I've already bought the 35mm. I will be using adapted lenses for macro work.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies folks.

I do a bit of ebaying and the 60mm would help with photos of clothing labels as well, it was also a reason for getting the 16-50 as it's easier for me to take photos of clothing using the zoom rather than the 18mm prime. Also, I have a lot of coins which need photographing. It would also help with my dog portraits, if he keeps still!

From my initial usage the 18mm is not something I would use regularly or like (the 16mm from zoom covers me if I want wide). I thought if I was part exchanging for the 35mm the deal is only costing me £29.00 overall looking at my whole set up. The body, 35 & 60mm would have cost me £929.00.

With the prices of the 18mm rock bottom, one went for £170.00 last week I thought it was a lens I should shift rather than just sitting in my bag, and I feel the 35mm would be better for me at the football and general lens. It's going to be better quality than my zoom.

Legacy lenses are something which has caused an itch and it needs scratching. I purchased the 135mm for £10.00 plus £11.00 for adapter, for this type of money it's little outage. I thought he 135mm might help me take photos of our puppy in the garden playing, when weather gets better as the current range I will have is going to be short.

I am going to struggle to get the 50-200mm within the next 4-6 months, so could you advise what legacy zooms are like on the XP1 if you have any experience, or, would I be better getting something like a 200mm prime????
 
Last edited:
I'm still waiting on an m42-FX adapter to start to test my collection, and my legacy lens collection is entirely primes (mostly m42 mount but one Rollei QBM).

There is an adapted lens section on Fugix (www.fujix-forum.com), and there is the manual focus forum (forum.mflenses.com) - although there are very few openly Fuji shooters there (it's Sony dominated) there is a lot of useful information.

The used 18mm prices are currently tanking because of excess supply driven by the X-Pro1 offer, and folk are getting desperate to get something for them to put towards something else. But the deals on kits with the 18mm are stopping and the deals are shifting to bodies supplied with the XC and XF short-zooms. I suspect the 18mm is at a medium-term low in value and only the desperate for cash are selling. It's certainly a buyer's market for this lens. Give it a few weeks, the price isn't going to get any lower and buyers will start to mop up the under-valued 18mm lenses and firm up the price a bit. In contrast, the 60mm is probably due to dip slightly on the used market as late-to-the-promotion buyers receive their free lenses, and the 56mm hits the market.

In summary..wrong time to sell a used 18mm, not yet the right time to buy a used 60mm.. but the 35mm is definitely worth your free lens voucher.
 
Swanseajack said:
Thanks for the replies folks.

I do a bit of ebaying and the 60mm would help with photos of clothing labels as well, it was also a reason for getting the 16-50 as it's easier for me to take photos of clothing using the zoom rather than the 18mm prime. Also, I have a lot of coins which need photographing. It would also help with my dog portraits, if he keeps still!
Click to expand...

I took this in macro mode using the 18mm lens. It does a fairly good job if you ask me.
 
Swanseajack said:
Thanks for the replies folks.

I do a bit of ebaying and the 60mm would help with photos of clothing labels as well, it was also a reason for getting the 16-50 as it's easier for me to take photos of clothing using the zoom rather than the 18mm prime. Also, I have a lot of coins which need photographing. It would also help with my dog portraits, if he keeps still!
Click to expand...

How do you find the 16-50? I got my Xpro to really use with primes, like shooting that way (have the 18 and 35) - but at times a zoom may be a good option especially for just fun shots with the kids. A tad worried that as I am used to 2.8 nikon glass and primes, I will not like the 16-50 IQ.
 
Starastin said:
got my 35mm today ! i'm now officially addicted to getting these black boxes brand new and opening them ! :D
Click to expand...

Be careful it can be very addicted,at the moment cant afford any more of those little black boxes :(.
Think the next big buy will be the 16-55 F2.8 :)
 
cambsno said:
How do you find the 16-50? I got my Xpro to really use with primes, like shooting that way (have the 18 and 35) - but at times a zoom may be a good option especially for just fun shots with the kids. A tad worried that as I am used to 2.8 nikon glass and primes, I will not like the 16-50 IQ.
Click to expand...

For the price I paid, £103.00 on ebay auction I am pleased with the quality of pics I am getting for the price. I am disabled and have little experience of using primes. I bought the 16-50 for the OS and it's easier for me to use when listing items for ebay rather than the 18mm prime I have. From comments on forums, it seems people are happy with the quality the lens produces, baring in mind the price point.

Due to disabilities I purchased the XP1 from a lighter system perspective and I couldn't get a suitable small camera to suit my needs. I tried the X20, LX7 etc. The XP1 has helped to kill two birds with one stone as I have sold my D7000.

A couple of SOOC quick snaps I have tried from my house, using the 16-50.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/95599258@N06/11962238745/in/photostream/player/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/95599258@N06/11962521503/
 
Last edited:
MikeM said:
I took this in macro mode using the 18mm lens. It does a fairly good job if you ask me.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike,

I have decided I will go with the 35 & 60mm. I believe these lenses will have more use for me at the present time.
 
I've done some juggling and offloaded the 18mm and bought a 35mm off here, an 18-55 & a new 60mm off another forum and a 14mm from Fuji refurb so I am pretty much covered for my needs but will probably add the 56mm when it arrives, until then I will try the 60mm for portraiture in the studio. I too do a little ebaying so the 60mm will be useful for that too.
 
I'm now a paid up member of the X-Pro1 club :banana:
Just need to decide my free lens selection now.
My original plan was to have the 18 it came with and claim the 60 free. Then hopefully raise the funds for the 14 and 35 before the £300 cashback finished.
I'm now wandering if the 10-24 will be better for me as a landscape lens. but that would require waiting for prices to drop after release. If I go that route then I would claim the 35 as my free lens and maybe just wait before adding anything else. perhaps adding a 2nd hand 60 when people start upgrading to the 56?
Alternatively I could skip the 60 and get the 55-200.

Any thoughts?

Can you tell I'm excited? :banana:
 
Well done! Choices choices eh? I have the 14mm lens which I love to bits and have just PX'd my 18mm free lens for a 18-55, so you could go down the same route? I'm waiting for the free 35mm which by all accounts will be a keeper. Had a 60 and found it too slow and IMHO the 18-55 is better. So that doesn't help you at all, and well done for joining the club! Oh and I have the 55-200 which is crisper than a crisp thing.
 
I think, no matter what other choices i make I'll keep the 18mm and will definitely own the 35mm one way or another. I reckon these will be the lenses that always get carried with me. But I will have a use for a wider and longer lens, just less frequently.

Loving my Billingham bag too btw, even if it does proudly say it was made south of the border :D
 
Congratulations on joining the club Colin. I am certain you will not be disappointed :)

55-200 is indeed crisper than a crisp thing Mike :)
 
Picked mine up from Jessops this morning. :D Waiting for the little green light to go out on the charger so I can have a play. Chucking it down outside though. :mad:

Got a free 16GB card and Manfrotto bag with it. Will be going for the 35mm when the 14 day waiting period is up.
 
I posted this information on another forum this morning (Fuji X) and I thought I should share it with you too...I tried to use continuous Auto Focus (C Mode) on both my 55-200 and my 18-55 and it does not operate? However it works fine using a 14mm Prime. Firmaware updated on both lenses. I phoned Fuji UK who says it should work so they went off to try it and reported back that it wasn't working for them either? They went off to think about it? ..About an hour later they phoned me with an update and told me that it is in fact working but it takes about 15 seconds to work (the chap sounded a bit embarrassed). I tried it myself and sure enough if you want to use C Mode with a zoom you have to hold the camera perfectly still for about 15 or 20 seconds before it locks focus. Obviously this mode is unusable in its current state.:wideyed:

Luckily not many people use Continuous Focus but having said that if you have a zoom there will be situations where CF would be useful, ie to track your children as they play etc. I pointed this out to Fuji UK who acknowledged that it wasn't acceptable and frankly I don't think they knew about it. The only thing they could suggest was for me to return the camera for testing but as it was operating exactly the same as theirs I saw no point in it. It was a daft suggestion and only made because I don't think they knew what else to say? Maybe there will be a FW upgrade on the horizon?
 
I can see your point but to be fair the vast majority of people who buy Fujis understand their limitations, they arent very good when it comes to SAF let alone CAF and tracking kids (most mirrorless arent great in that dept.). But yeah 15 secs is laughable. Another plus for primes.

On the plus side you would get some great shots of snails racing.
 
Last edited:
MikeM said:
I posted this information on another forum this morning (Fuji X) and I thought I should share it with you too...I tried to use continuous Auto Focus (C Mode) on both my 55-200 and my 18-55 and it does not operate? However it works fine using a 14mm Prime. Firmaware updated on both lenses. I phoned Fuji UK who says it should work so they went off to try it and reported back that it wasn't working for them either? They went off to think about it? ..About an hour later they phoned me with an update and told me that it is in fact working but it takes about 15 seconds to work (the chap sounded a bit embarrassed). I tried it myself and sure enough if you want to use C Mode with a zoom you have to hold the camera perfectly still for about 15 or 20 seconds before it locks focus. Obviously this mode is unusable in its current state.:wideyed:

Luckily not many people use Continuous Focus but having said that if you have a zoom there will be situations where CF would be useful, ie to track your children as they play etc. I pointed this out to Fuji UK who acknowledged that it wasn't acceptable and frankly I don't think they knew about it. The only thing they could suggest was for me to return the camera for testing but as it was operating exactly the same as theirs I saw no point in it. It was a daft suggestion and only made because I don't think they knew what else to say? Maybe there will be a FW upgrade on the horizon?
Click to expand...

Interesting.

I've just confirmed this affects both my X-Pro 1 and X-E1 (latest f/w on everything).

If you press the shutter then it focuses immediately and locks focus. If you just leave the camera then eventually it focuses in C. Move it and wait and eventually it notices it's out of focus and refocuses.

As a complete guess I suspect it may be to do with the aperture. The zooms are slower than the primes and so don't let (nearly) as much light in to the focus system. Pressing the shutter (as I have it set) turns on the focus assist and it works instantly. I.e. my guess is that it's not to do with zoom lenses - it's to do with slow lenses (and the zooms just happen to be slow).

If that's true it may be difficult for them to fix. I'll bet Fuji will start looking into it now it's reported though.
 
Just skimmed your thread "in another place" ;) My theory looks good to me - people are getting different results (2s vs 20s) and that would make sense if they were in brighter places than other people. In very bright light this may work properly. Bad news for any UK shooters ;)
 
JonathanRyan said:
Just skimmed your thread "in another place" ;) My theory looks good to me - people are getting different results (2s vs 20s) and that would make sense if they were in brighter places than other people. In very bright light this may work properly. Bad news for any UK shooters ;)
Click to expand...
I tried it in bright sunshine and it made no difference at all.
 
JonathanRyan said:
Interesting. Worth exploring why users are getting radically different results.

Also maybe try an ND filter on a prime and see what happens.
Click to expand...
I think it works OK on an XE 2 if you keep the shutter pressed half way and pan your subject. On an X Pro the C AF works differently, it's constantly on without having to touch the shutter button. Try it with a prime.
 
I'm confused, I used CAF all the time on my X-E1 and 55-200mm, it was always immediate, and pretty decent. Weirdly it would AF constantly without touching the shutter button (which it does state in the manual) but worked fine.

This was taken almost immediately after switching it on...


Castle Combe Wessex Chambers Raceday by Harry_S, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
ianmarsh said:
Is it anything to do with image stabilisation? I always felt my canon teles were slowed down fractionally with IS on
Click to expand...

I tried it with IS off and it's exactly the same. CAF on an XPro is on all the time. You don't have to touch the shutter button for it to work, and in fact with a prime it works really well.
It is clearly a fault with the X Pro and I'm not too sure what they can do about it. The photos of the Jets and the car Chris would not be possible with an X Pro taken in the manner you have described. I would be interested if you could try your zoom on your X Pro and report back with what you think Chris.
Anyway, I have written to Fuji UK regarding this and await a reply.
 
MikeM said:
I would be interested if you could try your zoom on your X Pro and report back with what you think Chris.
Click to expand...

Agreed. The issue occurs on both my X-Pro 1 and X-E1. The fact that is doesn't on your X-E1 suggests it might be the lens not the body. Just possibly it's a particular firmware version on the lens.

Fuji are very good at looking into stuff like this but the more data they start with the better.

BTW @ukaskew - your motorsports pics are one of the things that convinced me to get the 55-200.
 
JonathanRyan said:
Just skimmed your thread "in another place" ;) My theory looks good to me - people are getting different results (2s vs 20s) and that would make sense if they were in brighter places than other people. In very bright light this may work properly. Bad news for any UK shooters ;)
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the 2 second result on the other forum.im not sure he was doing what I was doing and what Fuji UK were doing. Test it yourself this way...switch on camera In C mode look through the EVF and time how long it takes for the AF to gain perfect focus. It takes mine between 15-20 seconds which is exactly the same as Fuji UK.
 
I think I am missing the point here. If I turn on the camera in C mode with a zoom the AF appears to twitch but doesn't lock focus. However, if I touch the shutter button it immediately locks focus and is ready to shoot. Why do I care about this? When I want to take a shot I can just by pressing the shutter as AF locks fast. I can see that something is not working consistently if this does not happen with primes but I don't see why it matters in practice.
 
ianmarsh said:
I think I am missing the point here. If I turn on the camera in C mode with a zoom the AF appears to twitch but doesn't lock focus. However, if I touch the shutter button it immediately locks focus and is ready to shoot. Why do I care about this? When I want to take a shot I can just by pressing the shutter as AF locks fast. I can see that something is not working consistently if this does not happen with primes but I don't see why it matters in practice.
Click to expand...
I think you have answered your own question really. What is happening with a prime is supposed to happen with a zoom. After all, people who buy zooms often want to track fast moving objects (see the photos by Chris above). The X Pro is not supposed to operate in the way you have described above Ian, it is supposed to go into an AF tracking mode immediately and not rely on you using the shutter button as though you were in normal S AF Mode. The AF is hunting to get autofocus and is taking up to 20 seconds to hit focus, whereas if you put a prime on the camera it is is instantaneous and constant.
 
Last edited:
There is clearly something different between primes or zooms but how they are supposed to work is supposition on our part. There might be a reason for this known by some Fuji engineers. The only difference I can see between zooms and primes that might be of relevance is OIS. There is presumably some chat going on between body and lens (whether OIS is turned on or off) and that might delay activation.

But I still wonder why it is an issue. I don't know why anyone would be peering through their viewfinder in C mode waiting 15 seconds for AF to lock when a tap on the shutter (which is what you would do in S mode anyway) does the job. I agree there is something that at first glance seems odd going on. I just don't know why we care when the practical solution is so easy.
 
Last edited:
ianmarsh said:
There is clearly something different between primes or zooms but how they are supposed to work is supposition on our part. There might be a reason for this know by some Fuji engineers. The only difference I can see between zooms and primes that might be of relevance is OIS. There is presumably some chat going on between body and lens (whether OIS is turned on or off) and that might delay activation.

But I still wonder why it is an issue. I don't know why anyone would be peering through their viewfinder in C mode waiting 15 seconds for AF to lock when a tap on the shutter (which is what you would do in S mode anyway) does the job. I agree there is something that at first glance seems odd going on. I just don't know why we care when the practical solution is so easy.
Click to expand...
You shouldn't be peering through the viewfinder for 15 seconds it should be instantly and constantly focusing, zoom or prime, OIS or not. That's the whole point. I refer you to this quote above by Chris, UKaskew...."I'm confused, I used CAF all the time on my X-E1 and 55-200mm, it was always immediate, and pretty decent. Weirdly it would AF constantly without touching the shutter button (which it does state in the manual) but worked fine."
 
Last edited:
I see where you are coming from but I think you are making a mountain out of a molehill.

1. why must the camera operate this way? Different lenses may need different modes of operation IMO.
2. why don't you just tap the shutter button to make it work perfectly?
 
ianmarsh said:
I see where you are coming from but I think you are making a mountain out of a molehill.

1. why must the camera operate this way? Different lenses may need different modes of operation IMO.
2. why don't you just tap the shutter button to make it work perfectly?
Click to expand...

Because it's not functioning the way it is supposed to. The camera has 3 focusing modes and only 2 are working correctly. This has been verified by Fuji UK who originally told me that they had a problem as well. It was only after an hour later that they got back to me to say that the camera was taking 20 seconds to focus and that they would have to report their findings. In relation to your point 2, I could tap the shutter, achieve AF but if I took my finger off the shutter the aeroplane would have flown off and I would have to AF on it again instead of letting the camera track it like it's supposed to and exactly as Chris has done in his car photos above.
 
Last edited:
ianmarsh said:
I see where you are coming from but I think you are making a mountain out of a molehill.

1. why must the camera operate this way? Different lenses may need different modes of operation IMO.
2. why don't you just tap the shutter button to make it work perfectly?
Click to expand...

What happens when the subject moves?

The Fujis are designed so that when you take your finger off the button CF still tracks the subject so that the view remains in focus and when you want to take the picture focus will be achieved instantly. (That's different from most firms' implementation of CF but it's clear that's how they designed it).

Don't forget that on an X-E1 you can't look through an optical viewfinder. So if the subject is moving and the AF isn't tracking it then the view will be out of focus and it's possible that you can't see well enough to decide when to shoot.

In your interpretation there is no point having CAF since it will perform exactly like SAF.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top