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  1. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Anything related to the Fuji X10 is welcome in here!
    - Images from the X10 (and comparison with other cameras)
    - Questions about the X10
    - Feedback and opinions from the X10 owners
    - X10 other stuff :)

    Please Note: Orbs and Adobe Camera RAW issues:
    Yup - they exist and are being discussed at length elsewhere. By all means post links.
    Despite a few wrinkles, this is a cracking little camera.
    Ta (y)

    Orbs...
    In the Summer of 2012 there was a voluntary recall to replace the sensor and fix the Orbs. Buying used, there is no way of telling if an X10 has had the sensor replaced, but the owner should be able to show you a service receipt.
    There's no official word, but we think serial numbers starting 22 onwards have the new sensor factory fitted.
    Please add a post to this thread if you have additional information.
    Orbs can be elusive, some people have never seen them. Even when present they may not detract from the image.
    If you want to go orb hunting then good starting points are to photograph a car with sunlight glinting off the chrome and urban night photography. If you have orbs, then you will find hard edged white blobs over the highlights. There are a few examples in this thread.


    Some recommended X10 resources:

    Cases
    - Modern all weather pouch - Lowepro Apex 60AW - available from Amazon and other retailers.
    - Modern all weather pouch - Samsonite Trekking Premium DFV35 - available from Amazon and other retailiers.
    - Retro - Here's a nice one on eBay that comes with two batteries for £17.68 delivered!
    - Retro - Another one from Amazon, £14.99 delivered.
    - Retro - Here's one from Kaza Deluxe which you can change the battery without removing the case which is fairly unique and a real plus; but it is rather pricey at US$140! Same item can be bought for £85 from eBay.
    - Retro - Considered the Rolls Royce of 3rd party cases, the Gariz case available from eBay at £123.05.

    Lens Hoods and filter adapters
    - Lots of recommended alternatives to the official item - Links coming soon

    Batteries
    - Important: quite a lot of third party batteries have lower capacity than the Fuji battery; if you get one of these you will regret it; battery life is important on the X10! You are looking for at least 950mAh.
    - Lots of recommended alternatives to the official battery, some of them with higher capacity - Links coming soon

    Soft Releases (Things that screw into the shutter button making it easier to release gently)
    - Links coming soon

    If you would like to recommend a link for adding here, please post into this thread or send a PM to DuncanDisorderly.




    A little history on this thread....
    It started off as Duncan's review of one of the first UK deliveries, but over time has morphed into a more general resource.
    Hence the thread was re-titled and is now the official X10 thread.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2012
  2. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Anyone following the "Fuji X10 in now the UK" thread will know I've been eagerly anticipating it's arrival.
    I picked my Fuji X10 up on Friday evening and have had a whole weekend to play with it and form some coherent impressions.

    As well as trying things out, I've been out in the landscape under challenging light that I knew my DSLRs would also struggle with.
    I'll be comparing the X10 to my LX3 and 5DII.
    The results were interesting...

    Unless clearly stated, all the images are JPEGs straight out the camera exported from LR3 using exactly the same settings I use for all my TP image posts (loads of DSLR sourced examples over in the TP Waterfalls Meet thread). I know 1024x768 will upset a few pixel peepers, but please accept my assurance that all these images are plenty good enough to print to A4, most of them to A3.

    I'm afraid I'm leaving my conclusions until after the piccies - sorry :)

    First - a few colourful images I've impressed by.
    NOTE: Focal length needs multiplying by 4 to get the 35mm equivalent.

    Macro in the garden - hand held - it will go closer, but I'd need support of some kind.
    ISO 200, 7.1mm, f3.6 1/850s
    [​IMG]

    Soft evening light on some Autumn leaves.
    ISO 160, 25.6mm, f2.8, 1/60s
    [​IMG]

    Garden sculpture (not my garden :eek:))
    ISO 100, 8.9mm, f3.6, f420
    Editing note - I burned in a bright spot on the legs of the Male; the PP is impressively natural for a JPEG, I know it's there, but I can't see it.
    [​IMG]

    Single Tree - I'm showing you this because I'm impressed with the green (bright but not offensive) and the lovely shadow details. The blue is spot on.
    ISO 100, 20.2mm, f6.4, 1/500s
    [​IMG]

    Most of the Autumn leaves have now gone, but this image looks excellent considering the rather hard light.
    This is an image I know my LX3 would have really struggled with; widest focal length and high contrast in the corners.
    ISO 200, 7.1mm, f3.6, 1/550s, DR 200 (First images I've posted with EXR DR)
    [​IMG]

    More images coming...
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2011
  3. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Low Light

    Taken in my local camera shop; cheers to Fuji for supplying the battery with some charge in it :)
    It's nearly wide open and is high ISO, but on the original image I can read all the memory card price tags on all four shelves.
    ISO 800, 10mm, f2.2, 1/160s
    [​IMG]

    A poorly lit room - a halogen uplighter and two tungsten table lamps; auto WB seems very effective!
    ISO 800, 15.4mm, f2.5, 1/20s
    The X10 would have probably preferred a higher shutter speed, but by default Auto ISO is limited to ISO 800 and I still hadn't explored the menus!
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Alastair

    Alastair

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    Looking good so far.. thanks for letting us see the results.
     
  5. POAH

    POAH

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    so its an over priced point and shoot then lol
     
  6. DuncanDisorderly

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    Now to go looking for trouble...

    Flare - Pointed straight into the sun and aperture wound to the smallest value to maximise the starburst effect and make the flare artifacts as pronounced as possible.
    Note: becasue the aperture exceeds the diffraction limit, you would never use this aperture for real unless you wanted starbursts!
    ISO 400, 7.1mm, f10, 1/105s, DR 400 - the X10 has gone into maximum DR recovery mode to cope with the contrast; at the time I didn't even realise it was doing it!
    [​IMG]
    IMPORTANT: I didn't spot flare in any 'real' images, even the ones pointed directly into the evening sun (shots coming up soon).
    Like I said; I was going looking for trouble.

    Cookie Cutter Highlights - there has been much debate about so called Cookie Cutter artefacts around highlights, most examples are of street lights at night. The artefacts appear appear as a dark ring around the over exposed area, especially at low ISO.
    I tried a night time street shot and couldn't find any problems; however, this woodland scene tells a different story.
    ISO 100, 11.7mm, f2.2, 1/90s
    [​IMG]

    I've taken this woodland scene many times with my 5DII, and it's a really difficult shot to get right. A typical DSLR image looks totally over exposed on the top left as that's pure sky showing through the trees. Being in the corner of the lens typically smears the over exposure over the fine detail resulting in the top left being a full stop or more brighter than the bottom right.
    But the X10 isn't over exposed in the top left.
    Interestingly, it's a side effect of the Cookie Cutter problem....
    At 100% the top of the branches are all over exposed and bleached out where the wet bark is reflecting the sky; it's on all the branches, big and small. There is a fine dark line between the over exposure and the rest of the branch (the Cookie Cutter effect) and it looks a bit like they have been solarised.

    However, the overall impression the Cookie Cutter dark lines are causing in this image is to retain the fine detail of the branches in the top left preventing the top left from looking over exposed!

    It's ironic, but this is a far more natural image straight out the camera than I've ever achieved with with the 5DII and good quality glass!
     
  7. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Exploring the Extended Dynamic Range

    Sometimes it pays to take things you read with a pinch of salt.
    I had believed that the EXR/DR mode produced a 6Mp image instead of the 12Mp image you get when the sensor is used 'normally'.
    This isn't what I'm seeing!
    My EXR/DR images appear in Lightroom as a full 4000x3000 pixels :)

    It was rather hazy on the edge of the hills and these are conditions I know it is rare to get a keeper. The technical challenge is that the sun is just out of frame and there is way too much dynamic range for my 5DII to cope with unless I resort to graduated filters or merging multiple exposures.

    No DR - sky is burnt out and the foreground is very dark. The 5DII would do no better without assistance from graduated filters or exposure bracketing. In post processing it is not possible to do anything with the sky and the foreground is dark enough that lifting it will result in a lot of noise.
    ISO 100, 16.7mm, f5.6, 1/850s
    [​IMG]

    DR400 - This is really interesting! the histogram is no longer clipped and the shadow detail has been well spread out. Although the distant Tor looks less well defined in fact the skies around it are full of detail missing from the earlier image.
    You can argue all you like about whether it looks better than the 'straight' shot, this is a significantly better start point for post-processing as there is detail throughout the whole scene.
    ISO 400, 16.7mm, f8, 1/900s, DR 400
    [​IMG]

    More images coming :)
     
  8. Julia

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    thanks so much for posting - really good to see results. have been feeling very tempted by the x10!
     
  9. Julia

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    how are you finding handling the camera? is it comfortable? do you end up hitting buttons/dials you didn't want to? i constantly have this problem with my g12...
     
  10. DuncanDisorderly

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    This is another problem shot I always take and rarely keep.
    ISO 400, 28.4mm, f3.6, 1/300s, DR400
    Editing Note: the X10 opted to expose to the right with no clipping; so in LR3 I dropped the exposure by half a stop which restored some colour to the sky, and fractionally upped the black clipping to give the wall a bit more punch.
    [​IMG]

    This deceptive scene gives my 5DII quite a challenge. The problem is the low evening light illuminating the hedge on the left leaving the lane uncomfortably dark. The X10 has chosen to compress the tones lifting the shadows while avoiding clipping the highlights.

    This is an ideal start point for post-processing.
    I quite like this lightly PP'd image; it needs a bit more work, but it's already better than the images I've taken of this view using the 5DII.

    More images coming :)
     
  11. simonblue

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    The price has come down a bit,but can't help feeling the same :)
     
  12. DuncanDisorderly

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    And now for a classic DSLR problem - the sun in the image....
    When the sun gets into the frame digital always produced horrible artefacts around the sun. Not only does it go from 100% over exposure to normal tones in just a few pixels, but there is often false colours around the sun. Next time you see an image of a red sunset with yellow highlights, ask the photographer if the sky really had yellow in it (it didn't); this is a side effect of the red channel blowing before the other two channels.
    film never had this problem because film has a non-linear response to over exposure; it doesn't just clip and give up (like digital), it degrades gracefully leaving nice smooth tones around the highlights.
    Rant over - on with the X10 piccies.

    No DR - a classic digital big white blob, far larger than the sun. Poor foreground detail.
    ISO 100, 18mm, f9, 1/850s
    [​IMG]

    DR 400 - the X10 has opted to keep the darkest black the same, and lift the shadow tones (not really obvious without the histogram). What is rather non-intuitive is that despite the sky being brighter, the over exposed blob is much smaller and more natural looking :thinking:
    ISO 400, 18mm, f9, 1/2400s
    [​IMG]

    More piccies coming - we are on the home straight now! :)
     
  13. Nawty

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    It strikes me that this thread can be summed up with this:

    http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/raw.htm

    Unless you know what you are doing with a raw image then as often as not, JPG is a better option (not sure about Canon but all Gen 2+ Nikon's can do all you've mentioned with their JPG engines, along with CA and lens correction).
     
  14. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Panorama...
    Erm...
    It works very well... Actually, that should be 'unbelievably' well...

    In all the ones I've tried I never caught the X10 making a mistake and the processing time seems almost instant!

    ISO 200, 7.1mm, f2.5, 1/220s
    [​IMG]

    I think I'll be doing a lot more Pano's :D
     
  15. DuncanDisorderly

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    Pro-Focus
    I can't decide if this is a gimmick or not...
    But it works!

    Essentially, the X10 will throw everything out of focus except for the subject.
    It does this by taking two shots, then the little X10 Elves merge them with a liberal dose of magic.

    Straight shot
    ISO 500, 7.1mm, f2.0, 1/30s
    [​IMG]

    Pro Focus
    ISO 640, 7.1, f2.0, 1/30s
    [​IMG]

    I've absolutely no idea how this works. If you look at the above images you can see the focal length of the OOF area appears to change. I know I moved slightly between shots; but not that much!
    It's no ordinary magic; it's black magic !
     
    Joeturner11 likes this.
  16. DuncanDisorderly

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    In answer to the earlier posters :)
    I definitely regard my LX3 as a glorified point and shoot.
    It sacrificed too much image quality to be anything else...

    But the X10 is turning out to be something different.
    The image quality is plenty good enough for printing to A3 and the colours are wonderful.
    These are what I hoped for when I took the decision to upgrade from the LX3.

    My normal digital workflow is that I do gross tonal correction in Lightroom so that when I pass an image over to Photoshop it contains the most possible information to work with. Hence using 8-bits in Photoshop is no sacrifice as I only ever make subtle tweaks to the tones in Photoshop.

    What I didn't expect is that the X10's fancy processing modes seem to share similar goals! The out of camera JPEGs are an excellent start point for post processing and I believe this is despite occasionally detracting from how the unedited image looks straight out of camera!

    So I can pretty much use my normal 5DII workflow for the X10.

    Note: I've only played with JPEG at the moment. The results are sufficiently good I'm not going to be rushing to try out Silkypix or sit longingly waiting for the RAW converter to arrive in Ligtroom. I'm a very happy bunny.
     
  17. POAH

    POAH

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    I like the look of the x10 but its just too expensive for what it is (P&S compact) which is a shame. I'd buy it for the wife it was cheaper
     
  18. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    What do I like about the X10....
    - No wait for camera to start up before zoom control operative; straight to max zoom.
    - Long focal length (compared to LX3)
    - Lovely image colour and tone.
    - Sharp corners; only occasionally slightly softer than centre even when pixel peeping. The corner sharpness degradation is better than all but the best lenses on the 5DII and overall is a quantum leap in quality on the LX3.
    - High ISO is astonishingly good. Lots of fine detail and remarkably little noise.
    - Optical viewfinder is genuinely usable and in bright light is vastly preferable to using the screen.
    - Some of the EXR gimmicks work very well and used with care will be a genuine asset.
    - Oooooo - just picking the X10 up feels nice; real quality :)

    What's annoying about the X10...
    - Battery life (absolutely rubbish compared to the LX3 and the 5DII).
    - I keep zooming the wrong way; the zoom ring is reversed compared to my Canon lenses.
    - I haven't found an RGB histogram (and I miss it)
    - Manual focus speed is painfully slow; can work around by using auto focus to get close then manual focus to refine - but that's pretty annoying sometimes.
    - Super Macro only works at 28mm - The lens almost touches the subject before it fills the frame - a progressive change in the minimum focus distance would be appreciated!
    - 200fps movie is a cool idea and we had a lot of fun with it; but the ultra-letter box shape to the resulting video is plain daft and rather limiting.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011
  19. simonblue

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    The thing you said about shooting into the sun,was also very good on fuji DSLR :)
     
  20. EdBray

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    Good review Duncan, looking forward to seeing some of your Scotland images with it in the future. Has it got a T/S function ;)
     
  21. DuncanDisorderly

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    We sat the X10 to a G12 and the effect is very odd.
    According to the tape measure the G12 is not quite as wide and is much thinner than the X10.
    I say it is weird because that's not how they 'look'.
    The X10 makes the G12 look huge :wacky:

    Is the X10 better than the LX3?
    Yes - by a long way...

    Will the X10 replace my 5DII?
    No - it's a 5DII - nothings going to replace the 5DII until the 5DIII comes out :wacky:

    Will I carry the 5DII less often?
    Hmmmmmm :shrug:
    Sure - there are circumstances the DSLR is a necessity. But if I'm only looking to print to A3, then when would the X10 prove inadequate?
    If I'm driving around and stumble on something special (mists at dawn, etc) then I'm not going to be grieving that the only camera I have with me is the X10; it will do me proud.

    The conclusion of my weekend playing with the X10 is that it and I are going to get along just fine.
    Next time I go out with the X10, we won't be playing.

    Right - I'd said my piece :)
    I'll take questions :naughty:
     
  22. DuncanDisorderly

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    LOL no :nuts:

    Seriously though...
    Because of the small sensor size there's so much DoF at normal apertures that there would be little benefit in using T/S to achieve greater DoF.

    On the other hand, using T/S for creative DoF is a whole different ball game and one I don't seem to play that often. And the Pro Focus DoF magic is almost in the same league :bonk:
     
  23. hoodlum

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    I have used EXR sensor cameras in the past. I see that you are shooting DR400 at 12mp which requires you to shoot at ISO400. If you change the image size setting to 'M', you can then shoot at ISO100 and DR400 with a 6mp image. This will work for both RAW and JPEG in all PASM modes.
     
  24. viewfromthenorth

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    Thanks for this review, been intwrested in this camera for some time. I've also got an LX3, and although I like the jpegs it produces, I've always thought the raw files needed too much work on them, plus it's limited zoom range and poor iso over 400 are a constant disappointment. The specs on this seem to tick a lot of the boxes, and the reviews that are slowly coming through seem to show that it looks the real deal, not so much an slr substitute, but as a complement.

    But to my eyes, it's still £100 too much at the moment. If / when it gets closer to £400, the LX3 will be up for sale!
     
  25. DuncanDisorderly

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    Oooo - I'll give that a go later today.
    Thanks (y)
     
  26. DuncanDisorderly

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    Agree on the LX3, plus I was always irritated by noise in the sky at lowest ISO.
    To be fair to the LX3, I've only been looking at JPEGs from the X10.
    It will be interesting to see what the X10 RAW files look like.
     
  27. DuncanDisorderly

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    Just tried it and....

    It was REALLY difficult to compare the two results because they are different sizes.
    So I resized them both down to 2500 pixels on the long side (originals were 2816px and the other 400px); resized with LR3 Export.

    I used my hallway light in the centre of the frame and got close enough to it for the X10 to decide to use DR400.
    The 12M image was at ISO 400 and the 6Mp image was at ISO 100.
    Which is exactly as you said (y)

    Comparing the two resized images; there are two big differences.

    1) On the resized 12Mp ISO 400 image there is enough noise to be visible on the monitor looking at 100% from two arms lengths away; it's reasonably subtle, but it is there. There is noise in the resized 6Mp ISO 100 image and it is still visible from the same viewing distance, but fractionally less pronounced.
    IMPORTANT: I'm being very picky as the noise in both these shots is too subtle to show in an A3 print.

    2) The Cookie Cutter artefacts around the light are the same shape and size, but the style of the dark line is different. In the 12Mp ISO 400 the line is smooth and dark, but in the 6Mp ISO 100 image the line is horribly jaggy - like aliased lines that you get with poor resizing algorithms or some sensors viewed at 100%. I checked the original images and they look exactly the same (except more pixels).

    I've seen jaggies commented on elsewhere in 6Mp DR images, so this may be a general problem unrelated to cookie cutter edges. I just tried reproducing jaggies using fine detail and failed; I think it needs outdoors daytime to get fine lines with lots of contrast.

    In summary....
    There is no significant difference in noise using DR400 at either 12Mp ISO 400 or 6Mp ISO 100.
    I'll stick to using 12Mp as 6Mp occasionally has undesirable jaggies.
     
  28. phototuition

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    Last edited: Nov 14, 2011
  29. DuncanDisorderly

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    Cheers :beer:

    Love your mushroom shot and the lone walker under the trees.
    I have only used the viewfinder when the light got too bright to see the screen properly; I guess that's because my LX3 doesn't have one and I spend a lot of time on the 5DII in Live View (easy way to get the best from a T/S lens).

    I recommend setting time aside to read (and understand) the manual.
    The general opinion is that it is poor (it's terrible), but at least you know what is supposed to be there so you can go and have a play to see if you can work out what the feature does (and what it is for).

    You will find a few useful gems..

    Like pressing the small thumb-wheel zooms straight to 100% on the focus point; great for checking focus. Till I read that paragraph I didn't even realise it pressed!

    And it is worth getting your head around Best Shot - it starts taking images as soon as the shutter is half-pressed, discarding them until the shutter is pressed the whole way. When the shutter is fully pressed it keep a pre-defined number of shots before the shutter as well as a pre defined number of shots after the shutter. I asked a friend to clap their hands, but not tell me when. At 10fps the feature worked a treat and I got a nice set from just before to just after the 'surprise'.

    Maybe we should start a list of WTF questions in case someone knows the answer.
    Here's a few....

    What's "Quick Start" - I've got it turned off at the moment. Startup is rapid. What does it do differently?

    Highlight Tone and Shadow Tone - any ideas ?
    I'm going to quote the manual IN FULL for Highlight Tone
    "Adjust the appearance of highlights."
    Strewth! I could take a guess what it might do from my Canon knowledge. I reckon the author has just about zero photographic knowledge :bat:

    IS Mode - 5 modes; OFF, Continuous and Shooting plus the latter two with 'Motion'. The manual provides no additional information :banghead:

    The only setting I absolutely needed to change was AE/AF Lock Mode which I changed from On When Pressing to On/Off Switch. The default settings require you to keep the button pressed which makes it really difficult to do anything else like press the shutter while holding the camera.

    A top tip I read from an early owner was a recommendation for a case.
    They reported the Lowepro Apex 60 AW is a snug fit for the X10; this sounded good to me as I don't want a larger case than necessary.
    The case specs say the X10 won't fit, but actually it is a perfect fit providing no accessories are stuffed in at the same time. The lens kinda fills all the accessory space.
    Good padding, weatherproof cover and easy access - perfect (y)
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2011
  30. AndyWest

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    Well I'm loving my X10 but i have much to learn. The one overiding thing i love about it though is how it looks and feels to use. It's just like using an old film camera and looks as good as a classic Leica. Happy days!
     
  31. mid_gen

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    Quick start on the X100 does what it says on the tin. With it off, the camera takes a few seconds to start up. With it on, the camera fires up in a second or less.

    I've not noticed any particular change in battery life.
     
  32. DuncanDisorderly

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    Hmmm - I just experimented and I can see no difference in the time from turning the lens 'on' to being ready to shoot. I need to re-try in sunlight as the metering does take a second or so to reduce to the correct exposure.

    The only difference I did notice is that with the camera off and the Playback button pressed...
    The time is reduced from about 1.5s to 0.5s - which is worth having!
     
  33. Snapsh0t

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    I've just put a quick'n'dirty album of my Sunday afternoon walk with the X10 here. This was my first chance to get out with the camera and everything was more-or-less on auto. No pp except a small amount of sharpening provided by JAlbum. Considering the sun was just out of frame to the top right in the two shots of the gate and I didn't have the hood fitted, the lack of flare is remarkable. Obviously there are a few shots where the levels need tweaking and I'll get round to that but otherwise pretty good. I used the viewfinder throughout and it's about right vertically as I'm using 3:2 rather than 4:3.

    Jonathan
     
  34. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    The ones with bright sky and dark foreground look different to the ones I was getting - the sky appears burnt out and the foreground is dark. It's like it wasn't using EXR DR.
    I think we were doing something different...
    I was either using P, A or EXR on the dial (I stopped using EXR when I realised P and A did Auto EXR DR by default.
    What were you using ?

    The only way I've found to tell if an image was taken in EXR DR is to look at the info on the image in playback; there is a little indicator top right saying either DR100, DR200 or DR400 - I think DR100 is the same as No DR.

    I'd be most grateful if anyone could tell me what to look for in Lightroom.
     
  35. Snapsh0t

    Snapsh0t

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    Dynamic Range was set 100% rather than Auto. Do you think that's the culprit?
     
  36. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Yup - Auto DR seemed to be doing a fine job. It stuck with DR100 unless the scene needed it to avoid clipping.
     
  37. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Today I was out with the 5DII and X10.
    Impossible to do exact comparisons, but here's the results...

    Image 1
    [​IMG]

    Image 2
    [​IMG]

    Can you tell which is which yet ?
    Info on editing etc coming in my next post.
     
    Joeturner11 likes this.
  38. fixedimage

    fixedimage Suspended / Banned

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    First thought would be 1 being the 5D, 2 being the x10 as the 1st image seems sharper and more detailed, especially around the areas of the sun and water. It's just a bit richer to my eyes and the image I prefer/think is better so expect it to come from the more expensive camera/bigger sensor etc.

    I actually expect it might be the other way round though and what I'm seeing is the DR on the x10 kicking in?
     
  39. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Image 1 - Fuji X10
    In P mode, ISO(Auto) 200, DR(Auto) 200, 7.1mm, f4.6, 1/750s, Auto WB
    LR3 editing notes: sky cropped so aspect ratio is similar to the 5DII. Added a 1.5 stop graduated filter over the top of the sky to match the Lee Grad used on the 5DII.

    Image 2 - Canon 5DII with 24 TSE II on a tripod with camera level and shift used to frame the image. 3-stop Soft Lee Grad with the transition placed to darken the top of the frame, placed so high that only part of the transition was used.
    Manual exposure, ISO 100, 24mm, f9, 1/50s, WB Sunny, Live View + remote release.
    LR3 editing notes: Temperature warmed up to match Jpeg from X10. Highlight recovery used to bring detail back in highlights to match the Fuji DR.

    For reference, here's the original image from the Fuji X10
    [​IMG]

    Looking at 100%, I can see that both have more than enough good clean detail to produce a pair of cracking A3+ prints.
    I'm very impressed with the X10 :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2011
  40. DuncanDisorderly

    DuncanDisorderly

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    Spot on (y)

    I think I'm gonna print this one to A3+ to confirm the image quality really is as good as I think it is. Without a physical print it's very much a judgement call given the huge difference in pixel count.
     

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