The Official Fuji X10/X20/X30/XF1/XQ1 Thread

Hey guys,

just a quick question...Whats with the weird naming of the pictures? They are absolutely not chronologically named when shot...Is there a way to change it?

I have only found that, when I do something special, like bracketed exposures.
 
Many thanks Terry - a much neglected county, Dorset, which probably contributes to its charm.

Funny you should say that, but I've had problems with the 'sweep pan' (more amusing than irritating, 'cos I can't take the function really seriously) when shooting objects that are actually in motion as the exposure is made. I posted some photos back in May to illustrate the point.

Pete

Like any shot a sweep pan is actually a series of shots. so fast movement is a problem. things can become extended, truncated or stuttered depending how fast and the direction they are moving. This is much worse for close subjects.
The amazing thing is how ofter you do get away with it.
 
Of course, you can always play with moving people - it's possible for someone to be in the same 180 sweep pan 3 times (without too much running!) and a 120 can have 2 of the same person in. The annoying thing (although well intentioned!) is when people see the camera approaching and move away in the direction you're sweeping.

In posts above, I've hailed Fuji's customer service as excellent. This morning, my X-10 came back from them after a lens problem and it appears to have had a full service while they were at it. They also found a problem with the grip (I was unaware of this problem) and have fixed it. All this right at the end of the warranty period. (y) to you Fuji.
 
Like any shot a sweep pan is actually a series of shots. so fast movement is a problem. things can become extended, truncated or stuttered depending how fast and the direction they are moving. This is much worse for close subjects.
The amazing thing is how ofter you do get away with it.

Yes, Terry, I'm amazed it works most of the time, moving objects or not. I nipped out into the garden yesterday afternoon to check out another matter on which I might need guidance from the thread at a later date, and flare revealed just how many individual shots could be involved in a panoramic image:


DSCF4578-2 by wylyeangler, on Flickr

Of course, you can always play with moving people - it's possible for someone to be in the same 180 sweep pan 3 times (without too much running!) and a 120 can have 2 of the same person in. The annoying thing (although well intentioned!) is when people see the camera approaching and move away in the direction you're sweeping...

You reminded me that I have, as others must, hugely elongated school and college photos taken with film cameras back in the '50s and '60s, that seemed to sweep automatically on clockwork drive to achieve the pan. I presume a focal plane shutter was synchronised with this to track over the film, the slot width determining the 'speed' of exposure in the usual way.

It could be the bane of headmasters, who often later found that little Jimmy turned up at each end of the photo as well as in the middle!

Pete
 
Thanks Billy, very kind.



I'd love to say it was planned but.....!

Oh there's me getting confused yet again thinking they meant Frome in Somerset with an incorrect spelling. I say that because I thought the comment was aimed at Pete's shots as Pete hails from that county & Frome - from whence Jenson Button comes. :bonk:
 
You reminded me that I have, as others must, hugely elongated school and college photos taken with film cameras back in the '50s and '60s, that seemed to sweep automatically on clockwork drive to achieve the pan. I presume a focal plane shutter was synchronised with this to track over the film, the slot width determining the 'speed' of exposure in the usual way.

It could be the bane of headmasters, who often later found that little Jimmy turned up at each end of the photo as well as in the middle!

Pete

Pete you're giving clues as to your age :eek:

But I must admit I still have my very wide B&W school shots but not sure if anyone appears twice :clap:
 
You reminded me that I have, as others must, hugely elongated school and college photos taken with film cameras back in the '50s and '60s, that seemed to sweep automatically on clockwork drive to achieve the pan. I presume a focal plane shutter was synchronised with this to track over the film, the slot width determining the 'speed' of exposure in the usual way.

It could be the bane of headmasters, who often later found that little Jimmy turned up at each end of the photo as well as in the middle!

Pete

The cameras involved were called "Cirkut" and took rotated panoramas on to long, and by modern standards wide film. I have been shot by one quite a few times at school.
As you could not alter the focus mid shot, the chairs and benches were arranged on a circular path.

As a youngster I helped out in a studio that did them, helping with the printing and processing. As they were so long they could not be enlarged but were printed on a long contact printing box, this had several layers of glass underneath to hold scraps of tissue to shade the light. These were arranged so as to balance the light as you could not shade or burn in any other way.

The cameras were made in sizes to take various width film.
 
Don’t you just love this thread, the pictures, the stories, the information exchange. The little black box playing the major part. I wonder how long the X10 will hold its own in this I WANT the newest (not need) age.
Rhodese.
 
The cameras involved were called "Cirkut" and took rotated panoramas on to long, and by modern standards wide film. I have been shot by one quite a few times at school.
As you could not alter the focus mid shot, the chairs and benches were arranged on a circular path.

As a youngster I helped out in a studio that did them, helping with the printing and processing. As they were so long they could not be enlarged but were printed on a long contact printing box, this had several layers of glass underneath to hold scraps of tissue to shade the light. These were arranged so as to balance the light as you could not shade or burn in any other way.

The cameras were made in sizes to take various width film.

Golly, what you learn on this thread! Many thanks, Terry - I've often wondered about those cameras, and having just 'googled' "Cirkut" I see there is a wealth of info I must clue-up on. It was the film that was progressed, not some form of focal plane shutter. I do remember the chairs having to be arranged in an arc. I should have guessed that if anyone knew about all this, it would be you!

Thanks again,

Pete
 
Don’t you just love this thread, the pictures, the stories, the information exchange. The little black box playing the major part. I wonder how long the X10 will hold its own in this I WANT the newest (not need) age.
Rhodese.

Mine went last week for an X20... must have the latest or the world will end!!! :)
 
At the moment, I have a small selection of baby Xs on the table in front of me - my XF-1, my new X-20 and the X-10 I recently sold, only for it to develop a fault and need warranty repairs! TBH, I wasn't really planning on the X-20 - I sold the X-10 on to a mate since it wasn't as good for MY need as the XF (which I already had, having chosen it over the X-10 on grounds of pocketability) but half missed the OVF. I'd still like there to be a better view of the exposure info in the OVF (ideally not overlaid on the image which can make it hard to see) and a level in the OVF but I had to spend a bit over £400 in store (trade in got me more than a straight sale, as always) and I had no qualms about a Fuji (see above posts re their customer service!)

Apart from the excellent IQ SOOC as JPEGs, I can't help loving the sweep pan function! While on holiday, I shot loads and when we got back, I had a test one (120) printed at 24" wide, then created a montage of about a dozen (assorted angles) on a single image to get printed at the same width. It ended up being (IIRC) 84" long! If anyone's interested, the resulting sizes (all 24" wide) are 120 = 10.25", 180 = 6.5" and 360 = 3 3/8". I plan on getting a frame or 2 in each size made up to display any current favourites rather better than just blutakked to a wall!

Just had a look at an old ('70) school photo and we appear to be in straight rows. I can remember that the camera did indeed pan across us as we sat/stood there but since I was only 7 at the time, I can't remember what make/model the camera was! I reckon an X? 120 pan would equal the quality these days and would be a LOT easier to print...
 
At the moment, I have a small selection of baby Xs on the table in front of me - my XF-1, my new X-20 and the X-10 I recently sold, only for it to develop a fault and need warranty repairs! TBH, I wasn't really planning on the X-20 - I sold the X-10 on to a mate since it wasn't as good for MY need as the XF (which I already had, having chosen it over the X-10 on grounds of pocketability) but half missed the OVF. I'd still like there to be a better view of the exposure info in the OVF (ideally not overlaid on the image which can make it hard to see) and a level in the OVF but I had to spend a bit over £400 in store (trade in got me more than a straight sale, as always) and I had no qualms about a Fuji (see above posts re their customer service!)

Apart from the excellent IQ SOOC as JPEGs, I can't help loving the sweep pan function! While on holiday, I shot loads and when we got back, I had a test one (120) printed at 24" wide, then created a montage of about a dozen (assorted angles) on a single image to get printed at the same width. It ended up being (IIRC) 84" long! If anyone's interested, the resulting sizes (all 24" wide) are 120 = 10.25", 180 = 6.5" and 360 = 3 3/8". I plan on getting a frame or 2 in each size made up to display any current favourites rather better than just blutakked to a wall!

Just had a look at an old ('70) school photo and we appear to be in straight rows. I can remember that the camera did indeed pan across us as we sat/stood there but since I was only 7 at the time, I can't remember what make/model the camera was! I reckon an X? 120 pan would equal the quality these days and would be a LOT easier to print...

If you set the rows at the correct radius the rows come out straight.
If you take a pan of straight rows they come out with the middle bulging up and down. ( nearer the camera + bigger image.) more like geometry than photography
 
The building behind us is straight and I'm 100% certain that's not curved! Again IIRC (and as I said, it was 40 something years ago so I might not!), we arranged the tables from the dining room end to end and they were square.
 
The building behind us is straight and I'm 100% certain that's not curved! Again IIRC (and as I said, it was 40 something years ago so I might not!), we arranged the tables from the dining room end to end and they were square.

Not every school photographer had a Cirkut camera. some simply used a plate camera and printed a slice as a panorama but they were never as good.

By the 70's the Russian Horizont cameras were taking them on 120 film, but as they were true panoramic cameras they were better with a curved group.

A panoramic camera can cover an entire school in one shot. classes or years were usually taken conventionally.
 
This one certainly panned across the school rather than being a sliced LF shot. I remember one lad being suspended for doing the in shot twice trick.
 
This one certainly panned across the school rather than being a sliced LF shot. I remember one lad being suspended for doing the in shot twice trick.

And don't tell me but --------------------- was it you :LOL:
 
Nope - I was a good boy until I discovered the joys of ethanol abuse...
 
When I was a lad we couldn’t afford photographers, we had to make do with sand etchings on slate.
 
I'm still struggling to bond with my X10, despite having had it awhile :thinking: I never seem to know quite which program to be in, and if I simply stick in P mode, the results are pretty uninspiring in all honesty, with quite a lot of blurry images and noisy thanks to high ISO. I'm certain it's to do with user error and not the camera, but it's not helping much! :(

I'm away on holiday from Monday and still not sure whether to take my 5Dc and a couple of lenses or perservere with the X10 and see what gives...


Flowers by mrdaveyoung, on Flickr


Bolt by mrdaveyoung, on Flickr
 
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Some recent Panoramas; the post office (No1) has had the bottom cropped. They have all had some cloning of multiple moving elements / people and some have had a bit of straightening.
Other than that they are untouched, LOL. :LOL: (y)

OLD-POST-OFFICE.jpg


BOSSCASTLE-COTS.jpg


BC-RIVER-005.jpg


BC-RIVER-003.jpg


BC-RIVER-004.jpg


BC-RIVER-002.jpg


Rhodese.
 
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Some recent Panoramas; the post office (No1) has had the bottom cropped. The have all had some cloning of multiple moving elements / people and some have had a bit of straightening.
Other than that they are untouched, LOL. :LOL: (y)


BC-RIVER-004.jpg



Rhodese.

This is the best of the lot. and makes an interesting and dynamic view.

The others mostly suffer from the usual European banana syndrome, cause by being too close to a straight element in the foreground. If the closest part is nearest to one side or the other ( or as in this shot,both.) it results in more of a gentle curve.
It also helps to limit the total angle of view.

The third shot is also better in this respect but is not so interesting.
 
Thanks Terry, the picture you have highlighted was the worst for repetition of people walking. In the cottage one, I used the curve; in fact, I exaggerated it for effect on the wall, and straightened it on the roof of the cottage. (I used puppet warp in PS).
I did do traditional pans but nothing worth showing.
Thanks again for the input.

UN-TOUTCHED.jpg


UN-TOUCHED-002.jpg


Rhodese.
 
Good job you didn't straighten the Post Office's roof - it's taken Tintagel hundreds of years to warp it like that!!!

I hope you visited the pasty shop in Tintagel - it's time we went back down to restock our freezer!

If you're still down that way, pop along the coast (westwards) to Trebarwith Strand and down to St Nectan's Glen and falls (between Tintagel and Boscastle - a bit of a walk up the valley but a very beautiful and peaceful one!) If not, hope you enjoyed your stay.
 
I'm still struggling to bond with my X10, despite having had it awhile :thinking: I never seem to know quite which program to be in, and if I simply stick in P mode, the results are pretty uninspiring in all honesty, with quite a lot of blurry images and noisy thanks to high ISO. I'm certain it's to do with user error and not the camera, but it's not helping much! :(

I'm away on holiday from Monday and still not sure whether to take my 5Dc and a couple of lenses or perservere with the X10 and see what gives...

Dave, the imags you showed look pretty decent to me. I've had generally good results simply from P mode (hides face in shame). I've mine on M resolution, Auto ISO 1600, DR400, mostly Provia now but may go back to Velvia, centre focusing (focus and re-frame)... there is quite a shutter delay TBH, and it was a frustrating experience last weekend trying to shoot a gull in flight, but I get far more keepers generally than I feel I've a right to expect!
 
Dave, the imags you showed look pretty decent to me. I've had generally good results simply from P mode (hides face in shame). I've mine on M resolution, Auto ISO 1600, DR400, mostly Provia now but may go back to Velvia, centre focusing (focus and re-frame)... there is quite a shutter delay TBH, and it was a frustrating experience last weekend trying to shoot a gull in flight, but I get far more keepers generally than I feel I've a right to expect!

Thanks for the info Chris, I'll give those settings a try. Certainly it's a good starting point. (y)

The images posted have been worked quite a bit in Lightroom, probably a little too much in honesty.
 
I also use M, Auto ISO 1600 and DR400. Not sure why you would be getting blurry shots though.
Assuming shutter speed is high enough, what focus method are you using? I tend to use centre spot and recompose too, but only get blurry shots if I inadvertently take the shot when focus hasn't locked for some reason?
 
The images posted have been worked quite a bit in Lightroom, probably a little too much in honesty.

To me it doesn't matter as I can overdo LLR :LOL: but as long as the 'end results' are to your taste that's all that matters. I love the flower shot - a side view - & so 'jolly' to look at on this wet morning. Whenever I see folks with 'posh' DSLR's taking flowers by bending a bit but shooting straight down I want to shout get lower.
 
Good morning Nod, I, ”we” have been visiting Tintagel for twenty-five years or so and have visited most of the nearby tripod holes. Alas, it is a bit of a task these days as my mobility is a problem, I bought a four-wheeled rollator last December and that has helped a lot, being able to put gear in the attached bag. In fact, I was tempted to take a DSLR and bits this time but narr it’s too much hassle.
Yes we had pasties, you know what they say a pasty a day and all that, not forgetting a pint of Tribute to wash it down.
Rhodese.
 
I also use M, Auto ISO 1600 and DR400. Not sure why you would be getting blurry shots though.
Assuming shutter speed is high enough, what focus method are you using? I tend to use centre spot and recompose too, but only get blurry shots if I inadvertently take the shot when focus hasn't locked for some reason?

I'll double check focus method, but this tends to be mainly in program mode, does P mode not take care of focus method as well? :thinking: I'm definitely going to set the camera up today in M with Auto ISO1600 and DR400 and see how it looks, assuming it stops raining to try it out!

To me it doesn't matter as I can overdo LLR :LOL: but as long as the 'end results' are to your taste that's all that matters. I love the flower shot - a side view - & so 'jolly' to look at on this wet morning. Whenever I see folks with 'posh' DSLR's taking flowers by bending a bit but shooting straight down I want to shout get lower.

Thanks (y) They were taken indoors, fortunately I didn't have to bend too far :D
 
A splash of colour to start a dull day.

RHODESE_S-VIEWPOINT.jpg


ISO 100. F5.6. 1/900th sec.

Rhodese.
 
I'll double check focus method, but this tends to be mainly in program mode, does P mode not take care of focus method as well? :thinking: I'm definitely going to set the camera up today in M with Auto ISO1600 and DR400 and see how it looks, assuming it stops raining to try it out!

Focus options can still be changed in P mode. You could have it on centre spot, you can let camera choose focus point etc,. P more should allow the same setting changes as A, S or M.
 
Thanks Chris, I'll keep playing... I feel more confident in manual mode since I've been playing with those settings. Just need to look harder at the other settings for the more p&s experience. :)

This is definitely looking more like I was expecting from the camera than I had before!


Flower by mrdaveyoung, on Flickr
 
Good job you didn't straighten the Post Office's roof - it's taken Tintagel hundreds of years to warp it like that!!!

I hope you visited the pasty shop in Tintagel - it's time we went back down to restock our freezer!

If you're still down that way, pop along the coast (westwards) to Trebarwith Strand and down to St Nectan's Glen and falls (between Tintagel and Boscastle - a bit of a walk up the valley but a very beautiful and peaceful one!) If not, hope you enjoyed your stay.


Nod I don’t know if this will be allowed but here goes,
Trebarwith Strand 2002. Not a Fuji X10 but a Fuji A210 a 2MP point and shoot, my first digital experience.
Mods if this is outside the rules please remove.


cornwall2002-042.jpg


cornwall2002-049.jpg


Rhodese.
 
I'll double check focus method, but this tends to be mainly in program mode, does P mode not take care of focus method as well? :thinking: I'm definitely going to set the camera up today in M with Auto ISO1600 and DR400 and see how it looks, assuming it stops raining to try it out!

As someone else mentioned, you set up the focus mode quite separately; not sure which setup screen but I can check if you have a problem.

One thing did occur to me: if you are mostly using the OVF rather than the rear screen, you have to keep the edge of your eye out for the focus confirmation green light and listen for the beep after your half press, or you will likely get blurry shots. Some folk talk about "mashing" the button straight down but I can't say it works for me!
 
Blimey, Sedgeley Beacon has changed a bit since I was last there!

Mornin Phil,
Arh haa you av spotted my little prank. They have Bilston (A town near Sedgley) by the sea every August, a carnival for the kids. Bilston is at the bottom of the Beacon so I think all that water is the result of someone leaving a tap on.
There’s a saying around here , “If Sedgley floods Bilston best look out.”.
:LOL:

Rhodese.
 
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