TLR recommendations?

I've done a v quick scan of the C3 test roll, just 300 dpi on JPEG. No post- production. I'm ignoring the likely underdeveloped left edge. Some dust marks from scanning evident (see 2)

1. just trying to get something with contrast and shadow
img413.jpg

2. I had to try a close up - probably 30-35cm, I picked something long that would hopefully be in focus without worrying about parallax correction although I did pan done slightly from my focus point. I was aiming to get the bunch of toms at the top in the centre...
img417.jpg

3. Solely focusing practice, loads of nicely defined lettering to go at
img421.jpg

4. an attempt to get an imagine with some perspective, focus aimed at middle arch
img420.jpg

Also got a nice shot of each child but they got v bored of dad faffing with light meters, aperture etc . I didn't even attempt any exposure correction for bellows extension, that certainly is for another time. Conclusion - camera shows great promise whether I do is another matter :)

Strangely what I'm most proud of is this is the 1st 120 film I've got relatively easily onto spiral and without severely scratching the film in the process. All my previous 120 spiral loading was done in a changing bag. This one was done it in the darkroom without the the changing bag -having my own darkroom is soooo liberating.
 
2nd test roll shot at Salts Mill today and dev'd just now using 650ml of dev, stop and fix. Very pleased to say the least.IMG_20221027_210028955.jpg

I was limited to options with aperture and shutter speed as I was using Foma 100 again and it was very overcast.

I've had reading glasses for 1st time for 2 weeks now. Juggling light meter, TLR and glasses was an issue so at shot 5 or 6 I dropped my Weston Master V and broke it :( . The remaining frames I had to use (un) Sunny 16. I've got a Fed light meter as back up. I also own a Gossen Sixtino which would be ideal to use especially as I can read it without my glasses but I don't think it's accurate.

Just one issue with me loading the camera. I'm not getting a full image on shot 1, so must re-read manual about line up of roll markings prior to closing film back.

So camera off to my mum's to be wrapped up until my early December birthday. I'm hoping some of the images are good enough to go in the Show us your film shots thread.

PS If you are able to visit the Mill there is an Ian Beesley retrospective on but it ends Sun 30th Oct. It's very good and I found the images of the underground colliery shots very moving as they were taken at the time my dad was a miner even though they weren't taken at his pit.
 
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I use very strong reading glasses to let me focus at about 5 inches from the ground glass. I can't see very well at all with them on for normal distances, so I have them on a cord around my neck so I can drop them quickly, easily and safely. It might be something for you to consider.
 
Actually, thinking about it, I probably have everything bar an albatross hanging round my neck when using a view camera: light meter, loupe, glasses. Everything to hand (except film holders and filters and spare cable release - I have pockets for them). I do carry a spare light meter in my pocket, naturally :)
 
I went out just before I got my glasses with a 35mm camera and the Weston light meter round my neck and managed to get them in a right tangle!! Heaven knows what I'll be like with glasses on a chain in the mix. Plus glasses on a chain are are a unfortunate reminder that I'm in the middle of being middle aged :) :)

I'll find a way that works for me, I always do, how many light meters I get through in that process is another matter :)

Footnote - when I was out with the C3 I got a v nice compliment from a person each time I was a shooting a test roll. Obviously they'd both had similar cameras in the past.
 
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StephenM said:
I use very strong reading glasses to let me focus at about 5 inches from the ground glass. I can't see very well at all with them on for normal distances, so I have them on a cord around my neck so I can drop them quickly, easily and safely. It might be something for you to consider.
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Well I've succumbed to the inevitable
IMG_20221029_184548118.jpg
I've decided to have the 2 most expensive things round my neck - the C3 and the glasses. A light meter will remain in my pocket unless in use but I'm going to get some sort of cord to attach to my belt and the meter. The meter cord length will be as long as required but a minimum of 12 inches from the ground at all times - clever safety feature eh? :)
Thanks again @moggi1964 for some advice via PM. At the moment I'm going to rule out a shoe mount meter and 90 degree adapter on cost grounds but one will go on my wishlist.
 
I've put a few images on the show us your film shots thread. Here are a few that illustrate some issues I had (nothing to do with the camera and its functionality)

Salts Mill outtakes #1 (1st shot on the film)
img448.jpg
Evidence of me not winding the film to the correct start place before closing the back. Pleased with the exposure as it was indoors and a 100 ISO film. I was aiming for focus on the horizontal pipe which I got. Was up against a roped off Hockney worth a fortune so limited space so again fairly pleased . No idea what the marks are in the lower right quadrant (no noticeable dust on scanner or negs). Some scratch marks I assume from me loading onto the spiral.

Outtakes #2
img446.jpg

I quite like the composition but would have probably been better focusing on on the far right tall pillar - what do you think? Light meter was working so ok on exposure however it was a very overcast day.

There are a couple more images that I will ask my mum to slightly Photoshop (I've absolutely no experience of any photo editing software) and then post on my thread or in "Show us your photos threads" if I think they merit.

We were on a family day out so I had to be conscious of me "playing" at cameras so only had around 45 mins taking 8 outside shots outside most without a light meter. However I already love the camera :)
 
I've some 7dayshop Fuji Pro 400H I want to use in my C3 over Christmas when family visit and some of the shots will be indoors so I will need a flash. I've read up on X sync flashes so understand how they work and the C3 manual states it will sync at all speeds when set to X.

To use an electronic flash I'm assuming I need a shoe adapter with PC cable. I think I've got one, if not I can buy another for a few pounds.

These are the only electronic flashes I own:

IMG_20221106_221717817.jpg

The £2 Fotomatic works fine and has a handy test button which fires the flash. The Olympus T20 is showing charged but even after an online manual read I can't get it to fire - does the flash need, in manual mode setting, a camera attached to it make the flash fire?

Obviously the Olympus seems better quality but would either of these be suitable for the C3? If not are there any other suggestions or recommendations for a cheap- ish (£20 or under) flash I could buy?
 
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auntiemaryscanary said:
I've some 7dayshop Fuji Pro 400H I want to use in my C3 over Christmas when family visit and some of the shots will be indoors so I will need a flash. I've read up on X sync flashes so understand how they work and the C3 manual states it will sync at all speeds when set to X.

To use an electronic flash I'm assuming I need a shoe adapter with PC cable. I think I've got one, if not I can buy another for a few pounds.

These are the only electronic flashes I own:

View attachment 372722

The £2 Fotomatic works fine and has a handy test button which fires the flash. The Olympus T20 is showing charged but even after an online manual read I can't get it to fire - does the flash need, in manual mode setting, a camera attached to it make the flash fire?

Obviously the Olympus seems better quality but would either of these be suitable for the C3? If not are there any other suggestions or recommendations for a cheap- ish (£20 or under) flash I could buy?
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Well IMO any old flashgun would do providing it has the right connections (esp old ones that don't need a hot shoe), after all your camera should be capable of even using pro flashguns like Bowens etc and would think pro photographers would use your camera for studio work.
AAMOI don't try and use any old flash gun on a modern film or digital camera as on some flash guns......... the trigger voltage can be very high.
 
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Looking at my flashguns and the Vivitar 283 can work with/without out a hot shoe...going cheap on ebay with sensor and check if with cord attachment...but note it's very powerful and blinding for close up family shots.
 
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I bought an IKOFLEX NEW in GERMANY for the £ / Deutchsmark equivalent of £15 in about 1958 when i was in Iserlohn in the RAMC -- it had a Zeiss 'Opton Tessar' lens -- at first all was WELL -- then after demob I use to go to London 100 Jazz Club Oxford Street to photograph the famous Trad Jazz bands and a Magazine wanted me to take Acker Bilk but on every shot at wide aperture the resolution was TERRIBLE and they rejected all my photos -- I found out that Opton Tessar was set in 'Pitch' and under Hot Conditions the Pitch SOFTENED and lens sunk a bit -- wish I had got a ROLLEIFLEX NEW in dealer's window at 820 DM for a f2.8 model when we got 11.50 DM to £1 sterling - do the maths .
 
excalibur2 said:
Well IMO any old flashgun would do providing it has the right connections (esp old ones that don't need a hot shoe), after all your camera should be capable of even using pro flashguns like Bowens etc and would think pro photographers would use your camera for studio work.
AAMOI don't try and use any old flash gun on a modern film or digital camera as on some flash guns......... the trigger voltage can be very high.
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Thanks @excalibur2 , I'd just assumed anything "Pro" would be out of my price range. However a quick auction site check reveals some of the Bowens Monolite stuff (inc 2 flash units, cables ,stands, umbrellas, bag etc) is certainly in my price range. Unsurprisingly a lot of the stuff for sale is collection only so I'll keep an eye out for local-ish listings.
PS I don't own any modern film or digital cameras so no worries there :)
 
auntiemaryscanary said:
I've some 7dayshop Fuji Pro 400H I want to use in my C3 over Christmas when family visit and some of the shots will be indoors so I will need a flash. I've read up on X sync flashes so understand how they work and the C3 manual states it will sync at all speeds when set to X.

To use an electronic flash I'm assuming I need a shoe adapter with PC cable. I think I've got one, if not I can buy another for a few pounds.

These are the only electronic flashes I own:

View attachment 372722

The £2 Fotomatic works fine and has a handy test button which fires the flash. The Olympus T20 is showing charged but even after an online manual read I can't get it to fire - does the flash need, in manual mode setting, a camera attached to it make the flash fire?

Obviously the Olympus seems better quality but would either of these be suitable for the C3? If not are there any other suggestions or recommendations for a cheap- ish (£20 or under) flash I could buy?
Click to expand...

I might be wrong but I think I recall the T20 would not operate unless it was attached to a camera. I have sold quite a few flashes over the past couple of years so I might be confusing it with something else. I did like the T20 but when I got rid of my SLR I got rid of the T20 too. Should have kept it really.


That's not a lot of help is it :rolleyes::LOL:
 
auntiemaryscanary said:
Thanks @excalibur2 , I'd just assumed anything "Pro" would be out of my price range. However a quick auction site check reveals some of the Bowens Monolite stuff (inc 2 flash units, cables ,stands, umbrellas, bag etc) is certainly in my price range. Unsurprisingly a lot of the stuff for sale is collection only so I'll keep an eye out for local-ish listings.
PS I don't own any modern film or digital cameras so no worries there :)
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Well I couldn't afford Bowens as well so for my home studio used P J Power and Jessops pro guns....doubt whether you would find many for sale? But if you are interested in family studio shots it's all easy even with just two non pro flash guns.......the only problem is exposure and I used a flash meter facing the guns.
I have no idea about this studio flashgun but if it's not too expensive for you, it might be worth investigating for reviews etc
www.ebay.co.uk

COURTENAY SOLAFLASH 1000 STUDIO FLASH HEAD,WORKING with JESSOPS 334 SLAVE FLASH | eBay

I plugged it in and it fired up and flashed on test, both from the test button and from a sync lead ( not included ).
www.ebay.co.uk
 
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moggi1964 said:
I might be wrong but I think I recall the T20 would not operate unless it was attached to a camera. I have sold quite a few flashes over the past couple of years so I might be confusing it with something else. I did like the T20 but when I got rid of my SLR I got rid of the T20 too. Should have kept it really.


That's not a lot of help is it :rolleyes::LOL:
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I'm going to look for my cabled flash shoe mount later. If I find it I will try and get it to fire on my non- focusing Lubitel 166b (strangely still available to purchase via the for sale section :) But I think you are right in that it doesn't fire when not connected to a camera.
 
excalibur2 said:
Well I couldn't afford Bowens as well so for my home studio used P J Power and Jessops pro guns....doubt whether you would find many for sale? But if you are interested in family studio shots it's all easy even with just two non pro flash guns.......the only problem is exposure and I used a flash meter facing the guns.
I have no idea about this studio flashgun but if it's not too expensive for you, it might be worth investigating for reviews etc
www.ebay.co.uk

COURTENAY SOLAFLASH 1000 STUDIO FLASH HEAD,WORKING with JESSOPS 334 SLAVE FLASH | eBay

I plugged it in and it fired up and flashed on test, both from the test button and from a sync lead ( not included ).
www.ebay.co.uk
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To be honest I've no knowledge of pro flashes but this has caught my attention (but I'm not buying anything pro at the moment)
www.ebay.co.uk

BOWEN MONOLITE KIT: 1 x 800E & 1 x 400E Heads 2 Stand, 2 Brollies 1 Fibre Case | eBay

Used Condition, See Pictures. TESTED AS FOLLOWS: Both heads tested Fully Working, The brollies are an addition but are good quality Courtenay Flash Umbrellas. The Stands are Later VGC examples. The 400 Head was recently serviced.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
We'll I've made a choice on a suitable flash and will post about it when it arrives. The suspense, eh? :)

I seem to have everything I need now to make the most of the C3. I've bought a new strap, new cheapo 46- 49mm lens adapter, secondhand 49mm Hoya UV and Mamiya Y2 filter along with the previously mentioned birthday presents of a camera bag and lens/body caps. I MUST stop buying any other accessories for now :(

I looked for my cold shoe to PC adapter but couldn't find it. However all my camera gear in the house is tidy and to hand. The darkroom is to be tidied another day...

Just a few weeks to wait for my birthday now til I can use it all! And for @excalibur2 the wait for some bright autumn/winter days :)
 
Well the flash has arrived. Is GN36 bright enough @excalibur2 :)

IMG_20221111_160805002_HDR.jpg

Mounted on the non focusing broken Lubitel because that's the only TLR I have access to for the next 3 weeks. Will write more about it on the new toy thread.

This is on its way for £7.35 delivered when something more simple is required.

s-l400.jpg
 
excalibur2 said:
:cool:Great for annoying the guys at a meet o_O
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It will certainly annoy my family even before I fire the thing!!

@excalibur2 - I've settled on this instead of a full studio Bowens type set up. I think it will be good enough for the occasional portrait with the main flash being bounced as well as the fill in flash option.
 
auntiemaryscanary said:
It will certainly annoy my family even before I fire the thing!!

@excalibur2 - I've settled on this instead of a full studio Bowens type set up. I think it will be good enough for the occasional portrait with the main flash being bounced as well as the fill in flash option.
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Yeah you can get away with that but a rough rule of the thumb ito give contour to a face you need two flashguns at about 45 degrees to the subject and one gun say half power..
something like this:-
HLj19P3.jpg
 
excalibur2 said:
Yeah you can get away with that but a rough rule of the thumb ito give contour to a face you need two flashguns at about 45 degrees to the subject and one gun say half power..
something like this:-
HLj19P3.jpg
Click to expand...

@excalibur2 Perhaps I should have described it as more photographing informal gatherings and group shoots than straight portraits like you have illustrated. I appreciate that my new flash has some limitations and also appreciate your comments and advice.
 
auntiemaryscanary said:
@excalibur2 Perhaps I should have described it as more photographing informal gatherings and group shoots than straight portraits like you have illustrated. I appreciate that my new flash has some limitations and also appreciate your comments and advice.
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Maybe to do in the future..I started about 35 years years ago with my parents and wife, then kids and others in family as I got more experienced........ and it's great looking back to "the way we were" (y)
 
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auntiemaryscanary said:
Thanks @StephenM . That's a good read which I'll study further. 1st thing I might reconsider is Voigtlander Brilliant - I'd just assumed they were rubbish based on them being cheap-ish. @Asha said he'd had one and seem to think they were alright (Diversion: Noticed he's not posted for a while, hope all is well for him in that there Europe).
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Yes I had a brilliant.
Battered and bruised but the glass was sharper than a new pin .

Parted with it yonks ago then of course went through a number of other different 6x6 outfits.

Present one is the YASHICA 635
 
Well my birthday has finally arrived. Camera, case and lens caps plus 6 rolls of Kentmere on the way are all presents with the rest self bought over the last 6ish weeks.
IMG_20221202_081328146_HDR.jpg

Shame the light is poor today @excalibur2 but that's the joys of an early winter birthday. However I'm v happy just playing with and looking at it all. A nice little starter MF set up I reckon :)
 
auntiemaryscanary said:
Well my birthday has finally arrived. Camera, case and lens caps plus 6 rolls of Kentmere on the way are all presents with the rest self bought over the last 6ish weeks.
View attachment 375016

Shame the light is poor today @excalibur2 but that's the joys of an early winter birthday. However I'm v happy just playing with and looking at it all. A nice little starter MF set up I reckon :)
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Well one thing is for sure is with all your pro gear, any poor shots there is only one thing to blame ;)o_O . I found to get the wife onside is to tell her that you want to take some great shots of her and the kids.......worked for me for all the inconvenience of doing home dev/printing/drying prints etc etc and the wife was excited even seeing B/W negs when you tilt them to see them in the positive. (y)
 
excalibur2 said:
Well one thing is for sure is with all your pro gear, any poor shots there is only one thing to blame ;)o_O . I found to get the wife onside is to tell her that you want to take some great shots of her and the kids.......worked for me for all the inconvenience of doing home dev/printing/drying prints etc etc and the wife was excited even seeing B/W negs when you tilt them to see them in the positive. (y)
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To be fair my wife is quite supportive of this film malarkey. The 11 and 14 year kids are a different matter: "Daaad, what's taking so long. Just use your phone!" :) :)

Whatever the weather a couple of Fomapan rolls will be used for practice and there is always the "big" flash to play with. Now my wife may not be aware of the flash purchase...

You are right about not having anyone to blame but me with this set up!!
 
auntiemaryscanary said:
Well my birthday has finally arrived. Camera, case and lens caps plus 6 rolls of Kentmere on the way are all presents with the rest self bought over the last 6ish weeks.
View attachment 375016

Shame the light is poor today @excalibur2 but that's the joys of an early winter birthday. However I'm v happy just playing with and looking at it all. A nice little starter MF set up I reckon :)
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You can't go wrong, the Mamiyaflex is fabulous. Not the fastest camera to use but you will be rewarded with some outstanding images. Just have to take your time.
 
Happy birthday !:)

Being reminded of what goodies are available ( looking at yours!) , I think I might need to have another one before my official birth date next august :p

Of course i would choose something LF related. :naughty:

[goes off to do some sport…….surfing!!
( LF retailers on the internet of course]:LOL:

Xmas has already been accounted for with the imminent arrival a new musical instrument to scratch an itch that I’ve had for a little while.
 
FishyFish said:
An accordion? That way, should your musical prowess fail you, you might be able to re-purpose the bellows. :D
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Well I reckon a triangle would be more useful........dinners ready for the cats ;) or maybe for the woman he was taking the picture of........ that he posted :cool:
 
What have I got wrong here? Am I right in thinking severe underexposure? Only 1 of the 12 seems anywhere near right (house- greenhouse) and one or 2 others may be saveable. I think I dev'd the Fomapan 100 correctly for 6.5 mins in ID-11. The light was poor when I took these but something is seriously amiss. I'm off to check I didn't have my light meter set for 400 or something.

IMG_20221204_194736525.jpg

IMG_20221204_194750422.jpg


IMG_20221204_195851883.jpg

Positive is I got it onto the spiral easily and I got the start line on the backing paper in the right place for the 1st time! Good job I went with my cheapest film.
 
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