Vintage lenses on Nikon D300

Jeffliv

Jeffliv

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Hi all

I recently picked up a used Nikon D300 (which is now my favourite thing in the world!) along with a functional AF 70-300m lens. So far, although I’ve a lot to learn, I’ve taken some reasonable shots as I get to learn how this camera works.

One of the reasons I decided to dive into photography now is a fascination with old lenses and the potential to link old (good) glass with more modern kit, especially if it can be picked up on a budget.

Now, because of the mount, I accept that Nikon isn’t necessarily the best option for trying vintage lenses but when I ordered the camera, I also sourced a mint Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm, thinking that a cheap adapter (without glass) would be fine. Although I’d no sooner ordered before doing some further research which suggested that wouldn’t quite be the case....

Anyway, the lens and adapter arrived and I prepared for the worst.....Wow! I was wrong - the detail and colour is incredible, a huge step up on the more modern (but basic) Nikon zoom I’d also purchased. I knew that the lens wouldn’t talk to the camera and that I’d be manually focussing but, close up, this thing is a revelation!

So that leads me to some questions which I’m hoping you knowledge folk can help with:

1. Of course the Zeiss lens won’t focus to infinity, so there are limits to what I can shoot, but is this ever likely to cause a problem?
2. As the lens isn’t talking to the camera, how do I best set the non-cpu data? Is it worth using whatever aperture setting I’m using at the time?
3. As a newbie, P mode is a big help, but with this lens I may be better served with A, S or M mode - any tips here would be very welcome.
4. Is it worth going for other M42 lenses (Helios for example)?

Any help here would be very gratefully received!

Jeff
 
Jeffliv said:
Hi all

I recently picked up a used Nikon D300 (which is now my favourite thing in the world!) along with a functional AF 70-300m lens. So far, although I’ve a lot to learn, I’ve taken some reasonable shots as I get to learn how this camera works.

One of the reasons I decided to dive into photography now is a fascination with old lenses and the potential to link old (good) glass with more modern kit, especially if it can be picked up on a budget.

Now, because of the mount, I accept that Nikon isn’t necessarily the best option for trying vintage lenses but when I ordered the camera, I also sourced a mint Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm, thinking that a cheap adapter (without glass) would be fine. Although I’d no sooner ordered before doing some further research which suggested that wouldn’t quite be the case....

Anyway, the lens and adapter arrived and I prepared for the worst.....Wow! I was wrong - the detail and colour is incredible, a huge step up on the more modern (but basic) Nikon zoom I’d also purchased. I knew that the lens wouldn’t talk to the camera and that I’d be manually focussing but, close up, this thing is a revelation!

So that leads me to some questions which I’m hoping you knowledge folk can help with:

1. Of course the Zeiss lens won’t focus to infinity, so there are limits to what I can shoot, but is this ever likely to cause a problem?
2. As the lens isn’t talking to the camera, how do I best set the non-cpu data? Is it worth using whatever aperture setting I’m using at the time?
3. As a newbie, P mode is a big help, but with this lens I may be better served with A, S or M mode - any tips here would be very welcome.
4. Is it worth going for other M42 lenses (Helios for example)?

Any help here would be very gratefully received!

Jeff
Click to expand...

I had this CZJ lens, it has an aperture ring, you control the aperture on the lens itself, so you use whatever aperture the lens is set to. Input the lens FL as is, 135mm, doesn't matter what format you're using. This really only matters on cameras with IBIS, as you need to tell the sensor the proper focal length for the stabilizer to accommodate. It can be less effective if you input the wrong FL basically. In your case it only matters for exif data recording. There are some nice M42 lenses so yes, it is worth it, the Helios 44-2 is fun, it's a 58mm F2 that can produce swirly bokeh at closer focus distances. Can work really nice for portraits.
 
As cagey says, just input the focal length so you can see which lens you used on the EXIF data. No other benefit really. If it were a nikon lens, then you'd also record aperture information but that won't be the case here.

In all honesty, the Nikon mount isn't ideal for adapting lenses to purely because it has such a long flange distance compared to most other mounts. It's easy to space a lens further from the sensor but you need additional optics to do it the other way around. Hence why, as you've found you lose the ability to focus to infinity. If you're always shooting close up, that might be okay but otherwise it might end up being frustrating.

But all is not lost because there is an enormous back catalogue of F-mount lenses from Nikon and plenty of other third parties too. Nikon's 'classic' stuff does tend to command a premium but also holds its value well so you have a chance to try something then move it on without loss. The crop body makes some of the wider lenses maybe a little less appealing but a couple of lenses that you might like are the 105mm 2.5 and also the 55mm 3.5 micro. The 135mm 2.8 and 200mm f/4 are worth a look too. Or even longer, take a look at the 300mm f/4.5. None of those should cost much more than £100, if that.

As for your mode question. Probably best to stick to A or M as the other modes require the camera to have some control of the aperture which of course it won't have.
 
gad-westy said:
As cagey says, just input the focal length so you can see which lens you used on the EXIF data. No other benefit really. If it were a nikon lens, then you'd also record aperture information but that won't be the case here.

In all honesty, the Nikon mount isn't ideal for adapting lenses to purely because it has such a long flange distance compared to most other mounts. It's easy to space a lens further from the sensor but you need additional optics to do it the other way around. Hence why, as you've found you lose the ability to focus to infinity. If you're always shooting close up, that might be okay but otherwise it might end up being frustrating.

But all is not lost because there is an enormous back catalogue of F-mount lenses from Nikon and plenty of other third parties too. Nikon's 'classic' stuff does tend to command a premium but also holds its value well so you have a chance to try something then move it on without loss. The crop body makes some of the wider lenses maybe a little less appealing but a couple of lenses that you might like are the 105mm 2.5 and also the 55mm 3.5 micro. The 135mm 2.8 and 200mm f/4 are worth a look too. Or even longer, take a look at the 300mm f/4.5. None of those should cost much more than £100, if that.

As for your mode question. Probably best to stick to A or M as the other modes require the camera to have some control of the aperture which of course it won't have.
Click to expand...

I did think of that when posting, probably should have added it in - with Dslr unless the mount you are adapting had a longer flange distance to begin with then it gets awkward. It is possible, there are some very thing adapters to make up the small differences between mounts but it does require a lot more research. With mirrorless you just look up the mount you want, find cheap adapter, go! As you say, there's plenty of good old Nikon glass, there's also the likes of Vivitar and others who made older lenses for the F mount that don't require adapters.
 
TBH for adapting lenses, Nikon is the wrong mount to use for reasons explained. As also said, there are some great older manual Nikon lenses that were all near the top of the game for quality and rendering. OTOH the 70-300 you have is a cheaper consumer lens, and as you found, not so great, so don't be surprised if you find older lenses to be better.
 
Have a look around for third party lenses there are plenty of them on the 2nd hand market but try to get Ai or Ais mount if your going for manual lenses. Most AF lenses should mount and work with your D300.BUT NOT EARLY A UNLESS THEY HAVE BEEN MOUNT CONVERTED.
This might help in making choices
https://www.nikonians.org/reviews/nikon-slr-camera-and-lens-compatibility

I have found a few bargains here in the past
https://www.rockycameras.com/nikon-20-c.asp

And don’t forget the old Tamron adaptall lenses which have interchangeable lens mounts
https://www.rockycameras.com/tamron-26-c.asp
 
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You can also use the old Nikon MF lenses, and some of them give excellent results. The only real issue is with focus. DSLRs, and particularly crop models, can be tricky. They weren't designed with the big/bright VFs of film SLRs which usually had some focus aids (split image, microprism etc) too, but it's doable, I sometimes use my manual Nikkors on a Canon 30D with an adapter, and it's a good combination.
 
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