Welding glass shots: show us what you can do ;)

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First effort. The needles Isle of Wight.

F8, 60 seconds at ISO 100.

I'm also finding this glass grade 14 and not 10, not that it matters just yet.



 
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S4S said:
First effort. The needles Isle of Wight.

F8, 60 seconds at ISO 100.

I'm also finding this glass grade 14 and not 10, not that it matters just yet.
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That's pretty much right - the grades are just the welding grades - probably related to light transference, but IIRC main problem with welding is the UV light that is kicked out. So it may well be a 10 stopper on ultra-violet ??? I dunno - but I tested my grade 10 as being around 13 stops on normal visible light, and a grade 11 as being around 14.5. Main thing is to get a calibration worked out for your own glass, as it appears that they're not 100% consistent. Looks like you've pretty much got things sorted though (y)
 
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My first effort, taken last Sunday. The lighthouse at South shields on the mouth of the river Tyne.

Custom white balance set in camera from previous shot, iso100 F11 66seconds & lots of fidling with colours in Raw

 
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Sadly Darkmutton is on holiday. wanted to get some for my holiday in 2 weeks time so gonna wait till the end of this week to see if he comes back, if he doesn't then any other guys on ebay that anyone has used ?
 
long time for a shutter to be open,hope you remember spare power,nothing worst than a camera dieing through lack of power
 
moranphotography said:
What do you think?

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ki_user said:
Very different, almost ghostly feel to it. I like it a lot
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Exactly, it has a very eerie look to it, feels as if it's London after a weird holocaust :(; it's a really good picture, and I love the effect.

Was there any post processing done with regards to the tone / colours?
 
Just ordered some of this ready for my holiday in cornwall next week, hope to try and get some good shots with it.
 
roastchips said:
Sadly Darkmutton is on holiday. wanted to get some for my holiday in 2 weeks time so gonna wait till the end of this week to see if he comes back, if he doesn't then any other guys on ebay that anyone has used ?
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I just bought these on ebay: item number 170476433827 from gr8tools4u

Got both 10 and 11 so just waiting for those then I can experiment.
 
Okay, one effort from me. As always, I am well behind the quality already posted but I am learning every day :)

I am still struggling to get white balance correct and find the colours are a bit muted, also noted the sky is still getting blown out when the exposure is correct (makes sense). To this end, I am contemplating trying a welding glass ND grad, something like a 12/10 stop, anyone tried it :thinking:

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Love the wobbly-bridge and St Paul's shot.. brilliant.

Kevin, the welding glass does knock a lot of depth out of the colours (non-greens in particular) and it needs quite a bit of pp to bring them back, working on the seperate colour channels. I've been working on a Lightroon preset to get most of the way there.

I've noticed that anything white (e.g. clouds) does have a tendency to burn through on long exposures (welding glass and c/l polariser combination). But I've also noticed this effect on long exposure shots using wet-plate techniques posted on Flickr (check out Allan Barnes - warning NSFW) and I think it's pretty much par for the course with long exposures unless you deliberately under-expose.

Another from me.. still having fun with this technique (please excuse the light leak from the uncovered viewfinder, less noticeable in this b&w rendering)..

 
Alastair said:
Love the wobbly-bridge and St Paul's shot.. brilliant.

Kevin, the welding glass does knock a lot of depth out of the colours (non-greens in particular) and it needs quite a bit of pp to bring them back, working on the seperate colour channels. I've been working on a Lightroon preset to get most of the way there.

I've noticed that anything white (e.g. clouds) does have a tendency to burn through on long exposures (welding glass and c/l polariser combination). But I've also noticed this effect on long exposure shots using wet-plate techniques posted on Flickr (check out Allan Barnes - warning NSFW) and I think it's pretty much par for the course with long exposures unless you deliberately under-expose.

Another from me.. still having fun with this technique (please excuse the light leak from the uncovered viewfinder, less noticeable in this b&w rendering)..

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Thanks for the tips, much appreciated (y)
 
Help, I'm hooked on this..

 
I like the last one a lot johnsy, the composition reminds me of industrial machinery photos from the early 1900's.
 
Finally got round to giving my welding glass a go.

I used a shade 11 and vastly under estimated the exposure times :( lol.

Ended up having to shoot around ISO1000 with wide ish apertures to get anything under 10mins. Might have to get a shade 8 or 9 use when its not too bright

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Gonna get back out after work with a bit more light and see what i can get :D
 
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TheBigYin said:
That's pretty much right - the grades are just the welding grades - probably related to light transference, but IIRC main problem with welding is the UV light that is kicked out. So it may well be a 10 stopper on ultra-violet ??? I dunno - but I tested my grade 10 as being around 13 stops on normal visible light, and a grade 11 as being around 14.5. Main thing is to get a calibration worked out for your own glass, as it appears that they're not 100% consistent. Looks like you've pretty much got things sorted though (y)
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I appreciate your observations Yin. Some quick calculations put my G10 @ 13 stops which is absolutely fine. I can imagine anything between 9 and 15 stops are easily calculable & adjustable on camera so no problems all round. Thank you again Yin.

Second effort: Victoria pier, Fort Victoria, Yarmouth Isle of Wight.

G10 Glass from DarkMutton.
ISO 100
F8
40 seconds
Open viewfinder.

 
That is a real corker of a shot s4s :clap: Welcome to the forum too ;)
 
You guys are getting some cracking shots with these lenses, i love looking through them and seeing what your doing. Do's any one want to cover our race events???
Just wanted to say many thanks to you all because it's helped me out a little with my race car, the money made from these lenses has paid for the painting of the car (my friends did it so was labour free) and our first race is next week which it looks as if we will now be able to make. pics of the cars progress can be seen at http://www.darkmutton.com/project-page-3.php , If any of you get my holiday message on ebay it's only because i work away mon-thurs and been getting neg feedback due to excessive delivery time. please contact me on dutt100@aol.com and as usuall i'll help everyone out the best i can.

Thank you all once again

Mark D
 
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hi guy's, just wondering if all welding glass lens give the green tint?
 
darkmutton said:
You guys are getting some cracking shots with these lenses, i love looking through them and seeing what your doing. Do's any one want to cover our race events???
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Mark.. give me a shout if you're at Snetterton or if you're doing the Richard Burns Memorial at Marham..


hi guy's, just wondering if all welding glass lens give the green tint?
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All the ones I've seen have a strong green tint. Using Lightroom I've found that correcting the white balance to 4200 Kelvin and +131 tint takes care of the worst of the tint. However some colours are more strongly affected than others so depending on the scen you will need to adjust the colour channels independently (greens tend to come out a bit too green, whilst reds tend to orangey, blues are a little washed out).

It's certainly much easier to colour correct using welding glass than it is using a combination circular/linear poliriser filter for long exposures. Although the polariser method does give a different feel and more control over the duration of the exposure in the 1 to 15 second region.
 
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