Welding glass shots: show us what you can do ;)

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I finally got time to upload these ...... taken out in my back garden so not much in the way of content but I'm pleased how the D300 can correct the colour cast in camera.

Here's the images taken a few days ago in full daylight using a Grade 10 welding glass filter taped to a Cokin 72mm adapter ring. I am getting a bit of light leak so will fix better for any further shots.

#1 Straight from D300
3884813449_b1ce1a9cf5_o.jpg


#2 Straight from D300 but using in-camera colour correction.
3884813265_f8f8f75a2b_o.jpg


Not tried yet but with a bit of PP and a decent scene should get good results from £1 bit of glass. (y) to Alby & Darkmutton.

Paul
 
Nice One Paul, colour correction had worked well.

I'm in London today, and I've brought my camera along with welding glass. I've never done a shot over 30seconds so how do I figure out how long I need to shoot for, will shoot at about f11 I think.

Cheers
 
F11 iso 100 with a 10 go for a 90 sec or with an 11 go for a 240 sec ;)
 
3887955370_e742f69495.jpg


First attempt.

Not too happy with it as the clouds have no real definition.

Bruce120 - WOW love it! That's what I want to achieve!
 
Dal said:
Nice One Paul, colour correction had worked well.

I'm in London today, and I've brought my camera along with welding glass. I've never done a shot over 30seconds so how do I figure out how long I need to shoot for, will shoot at about f11 I think.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Dal

Only just picked this up, don't seem to be getting the notifications. The shot I posted above was taken at f/11 for 20 secs but it was in full sunlight so this may need adjusting a bit longer if cloudy etc..... also not sure the difference of each of the grades??

Paul
 
Ajophotog said:
F11 iso 100 with a 10 go for a 90 sec or with an 11 go for a 240 sec ;)
Click to expand...

Hammerhead64 said:
Dal

Only just picked this up, don't seem to be getting the notifications. The shot I posted above was taken at f/11 for 20 secs but it was in full sunlight so this may need adjusting a bit longer if cloudy etc..... also not sure the difference of each of the grades??

Paul
Click to expand...

Thanks to both of you, I ended up shooting at f11 for 30seconds, when I did longer exposures there was alot of blown highlights.

Anyway, here's my go at this. The filter was superglued onto a 77mm adaptor.

3888720434_e64d7ab033_o.jpg


3887925503_4a2b50cb72_o.jpg
 
Great shots guys, I love it when a quite expensive filter style is made available to the masses on a pound shop scale.
Hammerhead, good start and you just now need to find a suitable pleasing subject.
Doug, I like the simple style of that shot.
Dal, they look to be done pretty spot on to me and as sharp as a sharp thing (y)
 
Hammerhead64 said:
I finally got time to upload these ...... taken out in my back garden so not much in the way of content but I'm pleased how the D300 can correct the colour cast in camera.

Here's the images taken a few days ago in full daylight using a Grade 10 welding glass filter taped to a Cokin 72mm adapter ring. I am getting a bit of light leak so will fix better for any further shots.

#1 Straight from D300
3884813449_b1ce1a9cf5_o.jpg


#2 Straight from D300 but using in-camera colour correction.
3884813265_f8f8f75a2b_o.jpg


Not tried yet but with a bit of PP and a decent scene should get good results from £1 bit of glass. (y) to Alby & Darkmutton.

Paul
Click to expand...

Hi Paul, I don't suppose you'd like to share your in-camera colour correction settings for us fellow D300 users who can't be arsed to do it ourselves?!!! :D
 
davekiddle said:
Hi Paul, I don't suppose you'd like to share your in-camera colour correction settings for us fellow D300 users who can't be arsed to do it ourselves?!!! :D
Click to expand...

I would be interested as well :clap:
 
davekiddle said:
Hi Paul, I don't suppose you'd like to share your in-camera colour correction settings for us fellow D300 users who can't be arsed to do it ourselves?!!! :D
Click to expand...

Only happy to help, but there wasn't much work involved. :thinking:

Using the colour balance feature in the D300 menu.
On this image I found that from the centre of the colour square move the cursor 4 steps to the left and one down gave me the best looking colour. In fact I used the white in the clouds to get to this setting.

Hope this helps you could do the same in photoshop. When I work out how to do a custom WB it should take out a bit of the guess work?

Paul
 
Just been on holiday to Skye for a week and tried using the welding glass.
I found judging the exposure time a bit hit and miss but it was fun despite the rubbish weather we had all week.

1.
3890227031_9a75c3f069_o.jpg


2.
3891107554_af108fc7cb_o.jpg


3.
3891561609_cb9455519b_o.jpg


Kit.
 
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Some lovely shots there Kit! :clap:


Well I've had another go using my shade 10. I fixed it onto my lens in a new way, which has proved to be a lot easier. More about that in a moment.

This is Normanton Church at Rutland water. 8 minute exposure:

3895737519_27ffd42e5a_o.jpg


I really really want to find a nice stream or even a waterfall to try this out properly. But there aren't many options where I live. So my next visit to the Peak District in a couple of weeks will be fun!

I put the glass onto my lens a new way. All it is, is a piece of 100mm x100mm self adhesive Velcro. Simply draw around the Cokin type thread for your lens, then cut it out. Stick one side to your thread, leave the velcro stuck together, peel off the other bit of backing and place your welding glass on top. Leave it all together under a couple of heavy books over night to let the glue set. It's a hell of a lot easier for me. It let me compose and focus my shot in manual. Once I'm ready for the glass, flick it back to auto focus, and pop the glass on the front. Switch your lens back to manual focus and hey presto you're ready to go :D No light leaks either!
 
Some superb shots appearing on here folks, keep them coming. It is really pleasing me to see people taking this idea on board and running with it and making it work. a big :clap: to you all ;)
 
Having got my piece of welding glass and an adapter ring, and having looked at what people have been posting on this thread, I'm feeling suitably inspired (y) I'll hopefully be putting it to good use whilst on holiday in Turkey :)
 
Want to try this, which shade no. is best???
 
I would say go for a 9 or 10 but at a £1 each why not get all 3 ;)
 
I'll go for 10 first then. cheers
 
Just a quick question from me. I had a quick search but can’t find the answer….

When talking the initial shot to set the custom white balance – how long should the exposure be?
My intention is to get a sheet of white paper. Position the camera so it fill the frames in good daylight, then put on the welding glass, take the shot and use this file to set my custom white balance.
But how long should this exposure be for? Is it the time automatically calculated by the camera?

Thanks in advance people! I’d go down the trial and error method, but I haven’t got my new glass yet!

Edit - im using a canon if that makes any difference...
 
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My glass arrived this evening so i had a go anyways :D

This was my first shot - unfortunately it was getting too late to go scouting for a more interesting subject....Its still got a bit of a green tint to it, but im pretty sure more tweaks to the file could sort this out.

I'm gonna have some fun with this one!

 
That works really well, you do have a bit of a cast there still but it is still really good ;)
Who said these weren't sharp?
 
Cast? You mean the bob to the middle right hand side? I think that appeared after i corrected the lens distortion
 
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Longshanks said:
My glass arrived this evening so i had a go anyways :D

This was my first shot - unfortunately it was getting too late to go scouting for a more interesting subject....Its still got a bit of a green tint to it, but im pretty sure more tweaks to the file could sort this out.

I'm gonna have some fun with this one!

Click to expand...

pretty dam good!
 
Longshanks said:
Just a quick question from me. I had a quick search but can’t find the answer….

When talking the initial shot to set the custom white balance – how long should the exposure be?
My intention is to get a sheet of white paper. Position the camera so it fill the frames in good daylight, then put on the welding glass, take the shot and use this file to set my custom white balance.
But how long should this exposure be for? Is it the time automatically calculated by the camera?

Thanks in advance people! I’d go down the trial and error method, but I haven’t got my new glass yet!

Edit - im using a canon if that makes any difference...
Click to expand...

What I did was to first calibrate how many stops worth of difference the welding glass made approximately. Once i'd worked that out it was a simple case of taking a shot of the white sheet of paper so that it filled the frame in manual mode - adjusting the Aperture and shutter speed to give a nice easy shutter speed to multiply up ;) Then do the sums, work out the new shutter speed and fit the wwelding glass. Take a shot of the white paper, and use that as the source for the custom white balance. After this you can go through the calibration process again comparing histograms, to make a more accurate stab at the number of stops the welding glass is worth!

Some shot's from my calibration attempts here...
 
TheBigYin said:
What I did was to first calibrate how many stops worth of difference the welding glass made approximately. Once i'd worked that out it was a simple case of taking a shot of the white sheet of paper so that it filled the frame in manual mode - adjusting the Aperture and shutter speed to give a nice easy shutter speed to multiply up ;) Then do the sums, work out the new shutter speed and fit the wwelding glass. Take a shot of the white paper, and use that as the source for the custom white balance. After this you can go through the calibration process again comparing histograms, to make a more accurate stab at the number of stops the welding glass is worth!

Some shot's from my calibration attempts here...
Click to expand...
Thanks, buts it's the math at the start that totally confuses me. Wouldn't know where to start
But I had a go with trail and error and got the pic of the car above.
Need to try and get head around the initial math....
 
Longshanks said:
Thanks, buts it's the math at the start that totally confuses me. Wouldn't know where to start
But I had a go with trail and error and got the pic of the car above.
Need to try and get head around the initial math....
Click to expand...

Thats why I said make the shutter speed simple to multiply... if you can make it 1/64th second for example all you need to do is keep doubling the time to add another stop...

so 1/32nd = +1, 1/16 = +2, 1/8 +3, 1/4 +4, 1/2 +5, 1sec +6, 2 sec +7, 4 sec +8, 8 sec +9, 16 sec +10, 32sec +11, 64sec +12, 128sec +13

simples...
meerkat.png
;)
 
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Received my welding glass today, gave it a bit of a clean to get some grease off and taped it up to my 58mm cokin adapter, no light leaking but then I did use tons of tape ;)

I take it with a legitimate 10 stop ND filter you still have to play trial and error?

Just have to wait for some wind now to get the clouds moving! It's completely still and overcast :(
 
Matthew, it's the perfect time to try it! If you wait for wind you will more likely end up with white skies. If you're doing a long exposure of about 8 mins, don't worry the clouds will move plenty ;)
 
Has anyone tried cutting the glass to make it square???
 
Well some blue sky eventually came through so here's my test shot, nothing fancy just in the garden shooting at the sky:

3904433364_baffb7a7b6.jpg


166 secs, iso 100, f/29, adjusted slightly in iPhoto. Not entirely sure what I'm doing with the exposures whilst using the welding glass, but it must be the same with the ND110's so I'll have a read :)
 
Do you notice ay degradation in image sharpness?
 
TheBigYin said:
Thats why I said make the shutter speed simple to multiply... if you can make it 1/64th second for example all you need to do is keep doubling the time to add another stop...

so 1/32nd = +1, 1/16 = +2, 1/8 +3, 1/4 +4, 1/2 +5, 1sec +6, 2 sec +7, 4 sec +8, 8 sec +9, 16 sec +10, 32sec +11, 64sec +12, 128sec +13

simples... :meerkat:;)
Click to expand...

That worked a treat (y)

Water Over Steps
 
Longshanks, did you mean to shoot at iso 800? Because its a great shot but the noise ruins it a bit imho.
 
Liam said:
Longshanks, did you mean to shoot at iso 800? Because its a great shot but the noise ruins it a bit imho.
Click to expand...

Im afraid so. The light was fading fast this evening and the test shot before was just too dark to try a longer exposure.
But thanks.
 
Longshanks that widget in your sig never shows,and ive waited 4 mins, to see if it does, although, click it, does go to your flickr, why not just have a link

Edit should have waited 8 mins then it does :LOL:
 
Longshanks said:
My glass arrived this evening so i had a go anyways :D

This was my first shot - unfortunately it was getting too late to go scouting for a more interesting subject....Its still got a bit of a green tint to it, but im pretty sure more tweaks to the file could sort this out.

I'm gonna have some fun with this one!
Click to expand...
Looking good! Had a quick play and got most of the green out by using the correct colour cast tool in Elements and trying various spots on the front tyre.

I've got my glass on order so should be joining the club sometime soon.
 
Just Dave said:
Longshanks that widget in your sig never shows,and ive waited 4 mins, to see if it does, although, click it, does go to your flickr, why not just have a link

Edit should have waited 8 mins then it does :LOL:
Click to expand...
Especially for you :D
It was starting to annoy me cos it does take ages to show up...
 
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