Canon 1D X Mk II Owners Thread

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Tim
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Hmmm service here is good. You should qualify for a replacement until it’s fixed, no?
 
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How long do i wait for a response from canon CPS ... Platinum user.. not even a thanks dealing with it :(
Doesn't matter what level of user you are with cps in the uk, you'll get a reply back usually in 2 working days, sounds like a nightmare but why have the shutter changed for no reason?
 

KIPAX

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Doesn't matter what level of user you are with cps in the uk, you'll get a reply back usually in 2 working days, sounds like a nightmare but why have the shutter changed for no reason?

As explained.. it was at 500 thousand.. I wanted to be sure it wouldn't go sometime while I had the 30 games booked nearly all in very low light that even the 1dx struggles . so to be more sure the 1dxII wouldn't pack up i got the new shutter..

now I do know a shutter can go at any time.. I was edging my bets.. the chances are higher at the reccomended shutter lifespan
 

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Hmmm service here is good. You should qualify for a replacement until it’s fixed, no?
yes.. hwoever the three times its been in they ahve sent it back as far as they are concenredas fixed and OK ..... and within the two day turnaround....
 

Canon Bob

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I am currently having a nightmare with Canon and my 1DXII at the moment..

I ahve a series of 30 matches for a football association in very dark horrible places.. usually start the ISO at 25600 and it's exactly why I bought this camera..

So in dec I decided to have the shutter replaced as a precaustion as it just passed 500 thousand actuations..

it came back and the pics where terrible.. i contacted canon who said calibration would not be effected.. However they took it back, calibrated and ... no better.. So I had to send again with my 70-200 mkII and they calibrated again.. still not mucb better

the amount of testign and failing i ahve to do and not much time other at paid jobs :( I ahve gone last resort.. sent a load of test pics and long letter to the canon CPS rep almost begging for help... Two of the 30 jobs have gone and i struggled.. needs sorting urgent :(
I assume from the basics of your decription that "terrible" implies that the shots are mis-focused...yes?
 

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I assume from the basics of your decription that "terrible" implies that the shots are mis-focused...yes?

I presume so but the problem might be deeper.. I bought FOCAL calibration software.... still bad pics :(
 

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Its hard to explain.. the pics look too noisy or fuzzy and this shows most at higher iso... whatever mode i shoot in is irrelevant if the pictures where clean and pin sharp before the replacement shutter and unusable after ? :) thats after canon had the camera and lens to calibrate

i sent canon cps a detailed email and then i sent a series of pics taken with the 1dxII and 70-200 that canon calibrated the body to the lens..... then with a 1dx and same lens same settings... at iso 12800 and 25600 at 70 and 200 .. on them all the 1dxII is no better than the 1dx if not worse

sent by "wetransfer" as each pic is JPG and RAW ... They have dowmloaded the pics but still no reply
 
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Its hard to explain.. the pics look too noisy or fuzzy and this shows most at higher iso... whatever mode i shoot in is irrelevant if the pictures where clean and pin sharp before the replacement shutter and unusable after ? :) thats after canon had the camera and lens to calibrate

i sent canon cps a detailed email and then i sent a series of pics taken with the 1dxII and 70-200 that canon calibrated the body to the lens..... then with a 1dx and same lens same settings... at iso 12800 and 25600 at 70 and 200 .. on them all the 1dxII is no better than the 1dx if not worse

sent by "wetransfer" as each pic is JPG and RAW ... They have dowmloaded the pics but still no reply
I have to say, I did not like the fuzziness of the images from my 1dx2 at 6400. Anything above that was largely not usable.

The only other thing that gave me crappy pictures was when I accidentally dialled in a 3 stop exposure compensation which I found surprisingly easy to do when changing AF area/points.
 
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I hope you get it sorted, Ive had no such issues with my 1DXII. Canon should be sorting the problem, maybe they are just taking their time going through the files. Good luck getting it sorted.
 

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As if like magic... they just emailed and asked for a time that the workshop team leader could phone me...

as i am writing this he phones..

had a loooooooong coversation and the body plus lens is going back in... he is going to compare the shots against a factory perfect camera they have and see if/what the difference is..

phew
 

Canon Bob

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I ahve had this camera for 2 yrs from new.. its been fantastic and i know what its capable of and what it should be producing as I use it a lot in extreme conditions..
That's why I asked about "custom modes". One of my MkII's suddenly didn't look so good at night but was fine during the day (less challenging and stopped down more). I used it with a 300/2.8 MkI which required no AFMA and it was disabled in the menu. When I got the 300/2.8 MkII it needed some adjustment and I then enabled AFMA ....the results were fine using AV but still poor at night when I use a "custom mode" I have set up. It transpires that a custom mode saved with AFMA disabled will always have AFMA disabled even if it's subsequently enabled in the menu.....resaving the custom mode sorted it.
 
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That's why I asked about "custom modes". One of my MkII's suddenly didn't look so good at night but was fine during the day (less challenging and stopped down more). I used it with a 300/2.8 MkI which required no AFMA and it was disabled in the menu. When I got the 300/2.8 MkII it needed some adjustment and I then enabled AFMA ....the results were fine using AV but still poor at night when I use a "custom mode" I have set up. It transpires that a custom mode saved with AFMA disabled will always have AFMA disabled even if it's subsequently enabled in the menu.....resaving the custom mode sorted it.
Have you posted any images here taken with your 300 mk2?
 

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Anyone using a third party battery.. Mine just keeps showing needs calibration even after calibration... when it gets low it cant power a burst of shots.. Don't really want to pay 170 quid for a replacement..

Anyone reccomend a third party that works well ?
 
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I'm using the WFT-E8 wireless transmitter today - it's in the garden waiting for a bird to land on a stick. I can see the image on my phone or laptop - but with the rear camera screen on the battery is depleting quickly - is there a way to turn off the screen when shooting wirelessly? (I know it's in live view mode to do so - just wondered if there was a way of saving a bit of battery)
 
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Do you need live view? To save battery you could fix the focus and settings and use a remote trigger to take the shots. I’m not sure if you can do that with the wireless transmitter. Normal remote triggers would work.
 
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Do you need live view? To save battery you could fix the focus and settings and use a remote trigger to take the shots. I’m not sure if you can do that with the wireless transmitter. Normal remote triggers would work.
That would defeat the object really of having the wireless transmitter and the on laptop live view. I like that side of things - just wondered if there was a way to turn off the camera screen.
 
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If you find out a way - please do let me know - it seems sensible that you might want to turn off the screen when sitting 100m from the camera and using the wireless adapter....
I owe you an apology.
I tried turning it off during LAN connection as I felt sure it was the Disable Live View option in the camera or camera control window.

Needless to say, I failed.
 
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@cymruchris On the 5D4 you can leave the camera remotely connected and turn off live view. You do have to turn live view on again (remotely) before you can take picture. This might save some battery if you can also do this e.g. only turn live view on when bird is near?
 
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Can you switch the camera off and on remotely? Not ideal but another way to preserve battery?
Yes - that’s possible but it ‘clunks’ when turning on (live view activation) which would scare a bird away before getting the shot.. prefer to be ready to hit the shutter. I’m getting about an hour and a bit per battery which isn’t much considering the size of the things..
 

Canon Bob

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I might be missing the point but simply turning the LCD brightness setting to '0' effectively switches off the screen.

Bob
 
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Canon Bob

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I hadn't considered that - I'm going to give it a try later to see if it makes a difference :)
Just to make you aware of the methodology.....
Start LV, enter the menu and set the screen brightness to zero. When you exit LV, the screen brightness will return to the previous non-LV intensity.
 
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I just stumbled across this thread and I'm a bit puzzled as to how few of you seem to be affected with the oil splatter issue.
My otherwise excellent camera has been affected since day one and I returned it to Canon three times in about a year. Each time it came back with a new shutter, new pcb or I was told it's good. The attached image is just about a quarter of the original frame.
I resigned myself to the knowledge that I only ever shoot birds at f4 - f8 and I could [relatively] easily clean the image up.
However experimenting with a macro butterfly shoot at f16 I was quite horrified to see the amount of debris/oil/unwanted matter that is present, to me it's like a shot of the milky way. If you analyse it at pixel level there seems to be absolutely thousands of spots on it and the [relatively] easy fix takes me and additional 15 minutes to process one image. The camera is now back at Elstree for it's fourth bout of surgery and I'm not optimistic that anything will improve. Is it me or is this bad?
 

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