Image quality question

odd jim said:
Try using aperture priority, wide open (the Sigma is very good wide open) and adjust the ISO so you're getting between 1/100 and 1/400 (that way you're shutter speed is suitable and you're not using a higher ISO than is needed). Also try using spot metering. And as always, shoot with a properly lit subject as with any subject :)
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Ok. Spot metering, really? Is that good for birds? It depends on the background but I most often use center-weighed metering.

Seriously, using ViewNX-i to convert my pictures to jpeg does wonder to them, the two pictures below were taken today, with tripod and TC 1.4x at full zoom, 1/1250, ISO 800/720, F/10. How would you rate these pictures in terms of sharpness and overall quality (not composition).



 
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If you're shooting raw, you should really be processing properly to get the best out of the images (don't do straight conversions as theyll be unprocessed). Things like shadow recovery etc can really bring the detail out.

Those images are ok but you really don't need that much in the way of ISO and shutter speed. You don't need f/10 either!
 
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odd jim said:
If you're shooting raw, you should really be processing properly to get the best out of the images (don't do straight conversions as theyll be unprocessed). Things like shadow recovery etc can really bring the detail out.

Those images are ok but you really don't need that much in the way of ISO and shutter speed. You don't need f/10 either!
Click to expand...

odd jim said:
If you're shooting raw, you should really be processing properly to get the best out of the images (don't do straight conversions as theyll be unprocessed). Things like shadow recovery etc can really bring the detail out.

Those images are ok but you really don't need that much in the way of ISO and shutter speed. You don't need f/10 either!
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Points taken. Thanks.
 
What's got to be remembered here is fundamentally heron-al is using a top end entry camera..

Yes it's more than capable of taking the shoot....

But it's gonna be affected by such things as, focus speed and frame speed.... Which are slower than the next level up, so 'in focus' photograph's percentage are going to be less than a higher model..

That is the main difference I found between using my Tamron with my canon 1200d and 7dm2 camera's, the latter pined focus quicker and with the help of frame speed, upped my 'in focus' results...
 
Ellie Jones said:
What's got to be remembered here is fundamentally heron-al is using a top end entry camera..

Yes it's more than capable of taking the shoot....

But it's gonna be affected by such things as, focus speed and frame speed.... Which are slower than the next level up, so 'in focus' photograph's percentage are going to be less than a higher model..

That is the main difference I found between using my Tamron with my canon 1200d and 7dm2 camera's, the latter pined focus quicker and with the help of frame speed, upped my 'in focus' results...
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That's not really going to effect these type of shots, focus speed here isn't critical (and even if it was, the d5300 is fast enough, and what do you mean 'frame speed' - if you mean frames per second that's not an issue either, you should do fine with just one!) but that's not the issue we're seeing here. It's underexposure and poor exposure and possibly metering that's not set properly. With the camera and lens combo he's using this shouldn't be a problem.

My example shots in this thread were taken on a Canon 6d. Great full frame camera but it doesn't possess the fastest AF, focus points or FPS. Yet you'll see I've captured fast moving objects (about the fastest you'll get) with relative ease :). Static bird shots in comparison are a walk in the park in terms of focusing and tracking, exposure is the key element there.
 
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odd jim said:
If you're shooting raw, you should really be processing properly to get the best out of the images (don't do straight conversions as theyll be unprocessed). Things like shadow recovery etc can really bring the detail out.

Those images are ok but you really don't need that much in the way of ISO and shutter speed. You don't need f/10 either!
Click to expand...
I definitely agree, maybe for birds in flight but not for a stationary bird. I got this peregrine at 800 - heavily cropped which is why it is so poor (and the ISO should have been higher - not sure why it was 320) a little faster would have been good but it was really dark.
EF7A6655peregrinefalcon by davholla2002, on Flickr
 
I find the lens is great wide open @f6.3 @ 600mm and very rarely stop down for my bird photography which is about 95% of what I do. I have had three copies and I have found them all great wide open.

For this time of year you really need to drop the TC for the time being as the light is generally not the best at this time of year, shooting at f10 is not the ideal in the current conditions as there's little sun and light is poor . For small bird photography I try not to shoot below 1/640 as you will find they are always moving, particularly their heads and you need the lower ISO for detail and higher SS for movement. I set my camera at Auto ISO of 3200 max. Theirs an old saying it's better to have a sharp image with noise rather than a blurry one without!;)


I would go and practice at your local duck pond or similar on larger birds and you will gain more experience of using the combo and the limitations of the gear. Stay with spot metering and always aim for the eye, BBF, Auto ISO of upto3200, Minimum SS of 1/640 and add some plus EC if needed and especially if shooting against bright light, sky etc...to keep the exposure on the bird otherwise the camera can be fooled and try to expose for the whole area.

If birding is your main interest there is a bird section here which has helped me loads of the last few years since I have taken an interest in bird photography. https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/photos-nature-birds.59/
 
ETA: Always try and get as close to your subject as possible, theirs only so much cropping you can do before you have image degradation, I find this even with my D810.
 
Swanseajack said:
I find the lens is great wide open @f6.3 @ 600mm and very rarely stop down for my bird photography which is about 95% of what I do. I have had three copies and I have found them all great wide open.

For this time of year you really need to drop the TC for the time being as the light is generally not the best at this time of year, shooting at f10 is not the ideal in the current conditions as there's little sun and light is poor . For small bird photography I try not to shoot below 1/640 as you will find they are always moving, particularly their heads and you need the lower ISO for detail and higher SS for movement. I set my camera at Auto ISO of 3200 max. Theirs an old saying it's better to have a sharp image with noise rather than a blurry one without!;)


I would go and practice at your local duck pond or similar on larger birds and you will gain more experience of using the combo and the limitations of the gear. Stay with spot metering and always aim for the eye, BBF, Auto ISO of upto3200, Minimum SS of 1/640 and add some plus EC if needed and especially if shooting against bright light, sky etc...to keep the exposure on the bird otherwise the camera can be fooled and try to expose for the whole area.

If birding is your main interest there is a bird section here which has helped me loads of the last few years since I have taken an interest in bird photography. https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/photos-nature-birds.59/
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Great advices, much appreciated!
 
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