My Indoor Project & Journey into Off Camera Flash

That's nice Dave. Good lighting on the figure - I assume it is quite small? I also like the background, is it a continuous one, it looks to be?
 
That's nice Dave. Good lighting on the figure - I assume it is quite small? I also like the background, is it a continuous one, it looks to be?


Thank you Paul, yes the the figure about 3in in height and I was lucky to get a original box with 4 soldiers and a horse. I plan to take an image every day and try to understand how natural light can play a part in the image taking, I plan to use my Godox flash and Nissin MF18 ring flash as I really need to learn how to use a flash.

The BG is a black sheet that I have.
 
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A couple of suggestions . . .
1. Don't use the flash on-camera, it's just a convenient place to put it but it should only ever be used for very gentle on-axis fill. You can do a lot with just a single flash, but the best position is nearly always well to the side or above. Lighting from above always looks natural, because in the real world nearly all light comes from above. Light from the side, and especially at fairly acute angles, creates texture, which will work well for nearly all of the subjects you've shown here. By all means use natural light too, but it's very hard to control its direction so far from ideal.
2. Only have the camera higher than the subject when you absolutely need to show the top, which hardly ever happens. Whenever the camera is high it makes the subject look smaller, more submissive and less important. The height was OK with the bottle (but nothing else was) but all other subjects are well worth re-taking with the camera at least a bit lower, and in some cases pointing upwards a bit.
 
A couple of suggestions . . .
1. Don't use the flash on-camera, it's just a convenient place to put it but it should only ever be used for very gentle on-axis fill. You can do a lot with just a single flash, but the best position is nearly always well to the side or above. Lighting from above always looks natural, because in the real world nearly all light comes from above. Light from the side, and especially at fairly acute angles, creates texture, which will work well for nearly all of the subjects you've shown here. By all means use natural light too, but it's very hard to control its direction so far from ideal.
2. Only have the camera higher than the subject when you absolutely need to show the top, which hardly ever happens. Whenever the camera is high it makes the subject look smaller, more submissive and less important. The height was OK with the bottle (but nothing else was) but all other subjects are well worth re-taking with the camera at least a bit lower, and in some cases pointing upwards a bit.



Sorry for the late reply Garry just got back from a bike ride, thank you for the tips and I will try those in the next day or so.
 
I have just put in an order for a XproS TTL trigger and a lenCarta Smartflash, so my journey will begin once they arrive even though I'm scared.
Fear of the unknown inevitably succumbs to knowledge:)

So, just 2 things:)
1. Work out your shooting position first and then put the camera on a tripod.
2. Make full use of the modelling lamp, that's what it's for. Don't bother with the light stand at first, just switch it on and get someone to walk all around the set slowly, pointing it at your subject. And, when you're happy with the lighting effect, Put the lighting stand up in that position and clamp the light to it. Now try raising and lowering the height until the lighting looks best.

You now have your starting point. Feel free to take some test shots using just the modelling lamp (at very high ISO) to confirm the light position. Now do it again, leaving the light where it is but adding a reflector, again moving it around until you're happy with the effect. Remember that the inverse square law applies to the reflector (as well as to everything else) so, the closer the reflector is to the subject, the greater its effect will be.

And then it's time to use the flash. Decide on the ideal aperture for DOF, then take as many test shots as you need to find the correct power setting.

Now, what's scary about that?
 
Fear of the unknown inevitably succumbs to knowledge:)

So, just 2 things:)
1. Work out your shooting position first and then put the camera on a tripod.
2. Make full use of the modelling lamp, that's what it's for. Don't bother with the light stand at first, just switch it on and get someone to walk all around the set slowly, pointing it at your subject. And, when you're happy with the lighting effect, Put the lighting stand up in that position and clamp the light to it. Now try raising and lowering the height until the lighting looks best.

You now have your starting point. Feel free to take some test shots using just the modelling lamp (at very high ISO) to confirm the light position. Now do it again, leaving the light where it is but adding a reflector, again moving it around until you're happy with the effect. Remember that the inverse square law applies to the reflector (as well as to everything else) so, the closer the reflector is to the subject, the greater its effect will be.

And then it's time to use the flash. Decide on the ideal aperture for DOF, then take as many test shots as you need to find the correct power setting.

Now, what's scary about that?



Thank you very much Garry, I do look forward to my journey even though it does frighten me.
 
Sorry Dave - only just popped in here. I contacted them as I didn't know how to get that protector off either - I didn't know if it was a screw or lever and was worried about breaking it - it's a lever and then a bayonet fitting. I will watch that video, although I understand now. The lady at Lencarta directed me to one that changed the main tube. I guess we are such beginners they don't realise we need instructions just to get the protector off!

@Bebop this is where my images will go.
Great idea!
 
Sorry Dave - only just popped in here. I contacted them as I didn't know how to get that protector off either - I didn't know if it was a screw or lever and was worried about breaking it - it's a lever and then a bayonet fitting. I will watch that video, although I understand now. The lady at Lencarta directed me to one that changed the main tube. I guess we are such beginners they don't realise we need instructions just to get the protector off!


Great idea!


Just have to figure out how to put the softbox on when I unpack it..lol
Even though I don't have a clue what I'm doing, this is going to be fun.
 
Just have to figure out how to put the softbox on when I unpack it..lol
Even though I don't have a clue what I'm doing, this is going to be fun.
It's sometimes easier to assemble the softbox, then lay it face down on the floor.
You can then fix the strobe to the softbox (as it's easier to hold / maneuver the light than the great big softbox).
Then pick up the combined strobe / softbox, and fit on your stand.
 
It's sometimes easier to assemble the softbox, then lay it face down on the floor.
You can then fix the strobe to the softbox (as it's easier to hold / maneuver the light than the great big softbox).
Then pick up the combined strobe / softbox, and fit on your stand.


Thanks Jonathan.

Glad I have said this is all new to me, but I'm really looking forward to it now.
 
You have to make sure the controller is set to the same channel and group as the light Dave.

Then change to the setting you want by selecting the group (with one of the side buttons) and then choose the setting you want with the mode switch.
 
You have to make sure the controller is set to the same channel and group as the light Dave.

Then change to the setting you want by selecting the group (with one of the side buttons) and then choose the setting you want with the mode switch.


The room is so small here, but I will try again but take a quick shot with my phone and put it up as I know it's me doing it wrong.
Thank you too.
 
Looks like you’re out of the starting blocks well done [emoji6][emoji106]

I felt like I was wrestling an octopus to get my softbox on. Good tip re putting it on the floor @Faldrax


It was fun putting the softbox on...NOT.
I have really enjoyed my testing today and look forward to many many more days of learning.

Who said off camera flash was hard :LOL:
 
We have so much stuff in the lounge hence why the bedroom is best, tomorrow or Sunday I will try the X100V if I can find the Fuji trigger.
I'm all set up in a room that is being used for work at the moment (even at this time of night), so haven't had another chance to play :(

I'm really relieved to see you'd already set up this thread. I was feeling a bit responsible for setting you off in a new direction. Now I know it's nothing to do with me - phew! :ROFLMAO:
 
I'm all set up in a room that is being used for work at the moment (even at this time of night), so haven't had another chance to play :(

I'm really relieved to see you'd already set up this thread. I was feeling a bit responsible for setting you off in a new direction. Now I know it's nothing to do with me - phew! :ROFLMAO:


I might actually change the name of the thread soon :thinking:
 
I'm now back from my "holiday" on the farm, driving tractors and so on, shunting trailers around, taking photos and doing general labouring work commensurate with my capabilities:)
Who said off camera flash was hard :LOL:
Tfhat would be you then:)
A7C + FE90mm and off camera smartflash plus a black BG this time.
OK, much better than your unlit one but . . .
Please try this American Indian (and perhaps some other subjects) with the softbox at the LEFT HAND FACING SIDE of your subject, slightly behind and pointing slightly forward. This will produce a much more dramatic result (which you may or may not like) and will also prevent any unwanted light falling on to the background - which you tell us is black but which doesn't look it because of the unwanted light on it - and see what you think.

You may find that the dramatic result is too much, but you need to try using lights for effect, not just for creating enough light to take a shot . . . The right hand side will of course be very dark, you can lighten it to suit with a reflector - something this size probably needs something around A6 size. Get a hardback book, prop it up on the right hand side, slightly in front of the subject (opposite position to your softbox) and fix the reflector to it, it's as simple as that.

Hopefully, you will have now read my book and understand how the Inverse Square Law works, so will know that the closer the reflector is to your subject, the greater the fill effect will be.
 
I'm now back from my "holiday" on the farm, driving tractors and so on, shunting trailers around, taking photos and doing general labouring work commensurate with my capabilities:)

Tfhat would be you then:)

OK, much better than your unlit one but . . .
Please try this American Indian (and perhaps some other subjects) with the softbox at the LEFT HAND FACING SIDE of your subject, slightly behind and pointing slightly forward. This will produce a much more dramatic result (which you may or may not like) and will also prevent any unwanted light falling on to the background - which you tell us is black but which doesn't look it because of the unwanted light on it - and see what you think.

You may find that the dramatic result is too much, but you need to try using lights for effect, not just for creating enough light to take a shot . . . The right hand side will of course be very dark, you can lighten it to suit with a reflector - something this size probably needs something around A6 size. Get a hardback book, prop it up on the right hand side, slightly in front of the subject (opposite position to your softbox) and fix the reflector to it, it's as simple as that.

Hopefully, you will have now read my book and understand how the Inverse Square Law works, so will know that the closer the reflector is to your subject, the greater the fill effect will be.



Thank you Garry for the help/tips I plan to have a go tomorrow, the black sheet is very shiny on one side and more a dull matt on the other. I will try a few of my other things I like to photograph and yes I will try the American Indian again, I really do like this lighting now and left a very good review on Trust Pilot for LenCarta.
 
Thank you Garry for the help/tips I plan to have a go tomorrow, the black sheet is very shiny on one side and more a dull matt on the other. I will try a few of my other things I like to photograph and yes I will try the American Indian again, I really do like this lighting now and left a very good review on Trust Pilot for LenCarta.
Shiny is hopeless, try the matt side.
 
I have followed this thread with great interest as it mirrors my own attempts at OCF and it makes it clear that I will have to buy some decent gear.
Can I ask what you actually bought for your lencarta set, flash,softbox stand etc and if you are prepared to say where from and how much
 
I have followed this thread with great interest as it mirrors my own attempts at OCF and it makes it clear that I will have to buy some decent gear.
Can I ask what you actually bought for your lencarta set, flash,softbox stand etc and if you are prepared to say where from and how much


It was thanks to Garry and @Bebop that I got the Smartflash and softbox plus a stand and for someone like me who is totally new to off camera flash I really did like it. My first few shots were crap if I say so my self, but with this set up I feel as though I will get the good/great shots I want.
Price altogether for the Smartflash and softbox plus stand was about £200 but I will get back in a minute as I will check.
 
It was thanks to Garry and @Bebop that I got the Smartflash and softbox plus a stand and for someone like me who is totally new to off camera flash I really did like it. My first few shots were crap if I say so my self, but with this set up I feel as though I will get the good/great shots I want.
Price altogether for the Smartflash and softbox plus stand was about £200 but I will get back in a minute as I will check.
I think the softbox price has gone up a bit, by around £10-£20. I was umming and ahhing and missed the boat. The Smartflash were still £99 last time I looked.

@troutfisher if you look in the lighting part of the forum you will see my thank you thread and in it are discussions and links re the softboxes available amongst my first attempts going through the projects in the lighting book by @Garry Edwards.
 
@troutfisher

Smartflash and XproS £158.09.
Redline Pro Profold Folding Octa softbox LenCarta £ 75.28.
Pneumatic Air Light Stand LenCarta £31.42
I believe that the Redline Pro folding softbox range is about the best there is, irrespective of price - and it sells at about the same price as the much more cheaply-made copies. I would say that, because I designed it . . .:)
And the same comments apply to the stand too.
The Lencarta is just a fairly basic flashhead, but it's all that most people need and I think that the price is currently reduced to £99, which is very good value for money. I don't know how long that offer will last though.
 
I believe that the Redline Pro folding softbox range is about the best there is, irrespective of price - and it sells at about the same price as the much more cheaply-made copies. I would say that, because I designed it . . .:)
:D That's interesting. I had been looking at it and could see that the 95cm octa softbox is a much deeper than my cheaper Phot-R one that I bought a few years ago. I know you commented it wasn't the best quality ;)
 
I believe that the Redline Pro folding softbox range is about the best there is, irrespective of price - and it sells at about the same price as the much more cheaply-made copies. I would say that, because I designed it . . .:)
And the same comments apply to the stand too.
The Lencarta is just a fairly basic flashhead, but it's all that most people need and I think that the price is currently reduced to £99, which is very good value for money. I don't know how long that offer will last though.


I thought the price was very good all round, so for me I had to get it.
 
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