They are probably too busy working out how much they items cost and shaking their heads.Wow, where's the envy icon???
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OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!
- Thread starter jemdna
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- Alistair
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I've just picked up this Olympus 35 DC rangefinder for a very reasonable price.
Now that I have a battery in it, the meter works, the shutter fires and seems to be adjusting to light levels. The seals look ok too.
The only downside seems to be the crack across the glass of the rangefinder, though it doesn't seem to affect the function.
I'm going to run a test film through it shortly.
However, does anyone know what this addition button (F) does?
I've download a manual and it's not in any of the diagrams or the text.
The one next to it is the sprocket release for rewinding the film.
Now that I have a battery in it, the meter works, the shutter fires and seems to be adjusting to light levels. The seals look ok too.
The only downside seems to be the crack across the glass of the rangefinder, though it doesn't seem to affect the function.
I'm going to run a test film through it shortly.
However, does anyone know what this addition button (F) does?
I've download a manual and it's not in any of the diagrams or the text.
The one next to it is the sprocket release for rewinding the film.
StephenM
I know a Blithering Idiot
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From the manual I've just looked at:
p4 describes it as the shutter lock free button
p14 refers to it in the important photo (the manual description)
I hope this helps.
usermanual.wiki
p4 describes it as the shutter lock free button
p14 refers to it in the important photo (the manual description)
I hope this helps.
Olympus Olympus-35-Dc-Operating-Instructions- Olympus-35-dc-operating-instructions
: Olympus Olympus-35-Dc-Operating-Instructions-776902 olympus-35-dc-operating-instructions-776902 olympus pdf
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Interesting. The version of the manual I downloaded doesn't have the F button. Must be two versions of the camera, one without the F button and hence two versions of the manual.From the manual I've just looked at:
p4 describes it as the shutter lock free button
p14 refers to it in the important photo (the manual description)
I hope this helps.
Olympus Olympus-35-Dc-Operating-Instructions- Olympus-35-dc-operating-instructions
: Olympus Olympus-35-Dc-Operating-Instructions-776902 olympus-35-dc-operating-instructions-776902 olympus pdf
It makes sense though as you can't advance the film or fire the shutter without light hitting the meter, so that button allows the shutter to fire with a lens cap on while loading film.
Thanks
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- Ryan
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Picked up a m42 CZJ Pancolar 50mm f1.8 yesterday with a Practika tl1000, cheapo zoom and some filters as used from ebay. On arrival I noticed that the camera doesn't wind and the lens was stuck wide open so I contacted the seller who knocked the price down to £20 for the lot. Other than re-centering elements on a CZJ Flektogon 35mm I had never tried fixing a lens but I thought for £20 it was worth a punt.
I got the back plate off and removed the back element exposing the blades and slowly and gently started working isopropyl alcohol into them while actuating the auto lever. Took about 10 min but suddenly they started to move!! Another hour of cleaning and about 10 cotton buds later and they were freed enough to open and close all the way to f22 and return on their own volition.
Yay a working Pancolar 50mm for £20!!
Problem is I have only managed to clean the back of the blades and the front is still pretty dirty. I can't seem to get the front branding ring off to start servicing the front of the blades. Tried rubber gloves and turning it with 2 rubbers from either side and it just wont budge.
Anyone got any suggestions?
I got the back plate off and removed the back element exposing the blades and slowly and gently started working isopropyl alcohol into them while actuating the auto lever. Took about 10 min but suddenly they started to move!! Another hour of cleaning and about 10 cotton buds later and they were freed enough to open and close all the way to f22 and return on their own volition.
Yay a working Pancolar 50mm for £20!!
Problem is I have only managed to clean the back of the blades and the front is still pretty dirty. I can't seem to get the front branding ring off to start servicing the front of the blades. Tried rubber gloves and turning it with 2 rubbers from either side and it just wont budge.
Anyone got any suggestions?
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- Allen
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Does the front element have the 2 slots 180 degrees apart ?
if it does use one of these
If not try this set , not cheap , you may find cheaper.
if it does use one of these
If not try this set , not cheap , you may find cheaper.
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Yes, but in all the videos I have seen they remove the branding ring before taking the front element out. I didn't want to try removing the front element without doing the brand plate first in-case it would mess something up.
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- Keith
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In the photo I can see a lttle slot on the stepped ring just above the serial number. I wonder if that is used to remove the branding ring.
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Did you see this video (not quite the same model, but it looks similar in the components):
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEyyKy83nSw
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Yes, those slots are for loosening the ring directly behind the branding ring and while visible cant be gotten to without removing the branding one. Pretty sure there is a grub screw securing the ring you are seeing behind the branding ring as well which can only be gotten to by removing the branding ring.
Thanks, I had seen that one but in the video they are removing only the rearmost and front elements which isn't quite what I'm after. If I can get the branding ring off I can remove the entire front element block directly exposing the aperture blades in one quick hit.
Thinking I might have to bite the bullet and shell out for some rubber ring removal tools and one of those suction cup removers which is gonna double the cost of the lens providing it all works out ok with the end result. They will probably come in handy anyway as I have a several surplus to requirements Tessar 50/2.8s and 135/3.5s with sticking apertures which if I can get working will sell for a better price than they would as spare/repairs.