OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

mdjchat said:
If it's anything like the one that I bought it will be ready for new light seals. I don't know whether it's due to getting older but I found it much more of a faff to clean away the old gunk than when I did my Minolta SLR's many years since.
Click to expand...

They’re definitely fiddly! I’ve done seals on all 4 RCs I’ve had and it is a bit easier on larger cameras.
 
Just ordered an adapter ring so I can put a 52mm orange / yellow filter on the Trip.

One of only two advantages of the Trip over the XA2.
 
simon ess said:
Just ordered an adapter ring so I can put a 52mm orange / yellow filter on the Trip.

One of only two advantages of the Trip over the XA2.
Click to expand...
Well you can't leave it there
What's the other

It gives a richer rendition of 1970's teak wall paneling ??

:D


just having a stab at it as I don't know anything about Trips......it meters TTL ?
 
Exposure lock.

Not exactly TTl but the meter is within any filter.

Oh, and it does perfectly render 1970s Indian restaurant wallpaper.

Well exotic, that.
 
Last edited:
My latest 35RC arrived today. The pictures and description on the listing were pretty accurate. It’s fair to say that it’s a bit tired!

IMG_9047.jpg

IMG_9051.jpg

IMG_9048.jpg

The lens has some cleaning marks on the front element, the film counter plastic cover is cracked and there’s pitting on the base plate so it’s a bit of a fixer-upper!

Most importantly, it’s mechanically sound and the internal meter is accurate (using a hearing aid battery and spacer at the moment but will grab a Wein cell.

In true me fashion I’ve got the bottom plate off already to tidy it up. I’ve started by using a small grinding bit on my Dremel to knock back the pitting and outer layer of chrome, ready for paint.(picture before grinding)

Image1507832589.431413.jpg

I’ve got half a can of gunmetal grey here from Baz’s RC so I think I’ll go for that again :0)
 
I prised the ring off the Weinn Cell I had but I think you could just get a suitable washer from the hardware store
 
Last edited:
I’ve got lots of weird batteries hanging about now. Hearing aid, 625, 640 and a few strange adapters.
 
I found I didn't need a spacer to go with any of the modern batteries, if you place it just right as you close the lid, it'll stay put!
 
DSC_0250_crop_708x540.JPG

Zeiss Ikon Ikonta 522/24. This came as part of a mixed lot of old cameras. I'm surprised that it all appears to work correctly, even the self timer. And it feels surprisingly smooth besides. Currently loaded with a roll of poundlands finest to see whether it actually works.
 
In a related post, I picked up an Ikonta at the Boston Spa camera fair today. Looking forward to testing it out - It's very nice and compact! There are a few scuffs on the bellows, but I can't tell if they'll let in light. What's the best way to test them for leaks?

I also picked up a Zuiko 135mm f/3.5 for my OM-1.


20171015_150147-1208x1207.jpg 20171015_150218-1209x1209-1024x1024.jpg
 
Last edited:
FishyFish said:
In a related post, I picked up an Ikonta at the Boston Spa camera fair today. Looking forward to testing it out - It's very nice and compact! There are a few scuffs on the bellows, but I can't tell if they'll let in light. What's the best way to test them for leaks?

I also picked up a Zuiko 135mm f/3.5 for my OM-1.
Click to expand...


Darkish room and shine a torch/phone through from the back, or take the lens off and do it from the front. It should be obvious if there are any major light leaks.
 
The bottom plate is hardened and refitted. I reckon the 35RC will look good in midnight black :0)

IMG_9112.JPG

I’m resisting the urge to replace the skin because the original leatherette has shrunk back by a little bit which is annoying me! I think I’ll leave it for now because I need to replace the seals before I can use it so that’s a higher priority. I’ve got 3 rolls of Velvia here along with a roll of Cinestill 800T on the way. Coupled with 40 sheets of Instax and my digital kit, I reckon I’m sorted for the 2 weeks away [emoji4]
 
simon ess said:
Electrical tape and clear nail varnish?

There is some rubbery paint on stuff of some sort.

I think that's what @TheBigYin recommends
Click to expand...

Matt Black Latex fabric paint.

works wonders - though it takes an AGE to dry, and before you close the bellows, its best to dust the surfaces with a little "french chalk" - you know, that little block of stuff that came with old school bike puncture repair kits. It stops the paint sticking to itself when you close the camera, and ripping apart again when you re-open it...
 
TheBigYin said:
Matt Black Latex fabric paint.

works wonders - though it takes an AGE to dry, and before you close the bellows, its best to dust the surfaces with a little "french chalk" - you know, that little block of stuff that came with old school bike puncture repair kits. It stops the paint sticking to itself when you close the camera, and ripping apart again when you re-open it...
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark. I'll pick some if that up. I think I still have a cycle repair kit somewhere too. :)
 
I looked into trying to get some black latex paint to repair the bellows on a lovely old art deco Ensign Selfix 20 I bought a couple of years ago, but unfortunately had bellows that had pinhole light leaks on every corner. However, I could only find the water-based stuff and wasn't sure that would work, so it's been sitting on a bookshelf looking pretty and gathering dust ever since.
 
kendo1 said:
Contax 139 Carl Zeiss 45 2.8 T* by Ken, on Flickr
Click to expand...
I keep looking at Contax SLR's. The first SLR that I used was my Dad's Yashica FR1, he had a Contax/ Yashica guide with it and the RTS looked much more exotic. At the time they were a bit too pricey, now they're within reach but I'm trying to resist the lure of more equipment. Your photo makes a compelling argument though [emoji14]
 
mdjchat said:
I keep looking at Contax SLR's. The first SLR that I used was my Dad's Yashica FR1, he had a Contax/ Yashica guide with it and the RTS looked much more exotic. At the time they were a bit too pricey, now they're within reach but I'm trying to resist the lure of more equipment. Your photo makes a compelling argument though [emoji14]
Click to expand...

To be honest, the difference between the FR1 and the original RTS is miniscule.
The RTS II is a much better upgrade to the FR1.
Or, the 139 is a superb camera in a small package - it's about the same size as the range finder camera: the G1.

The exposure lock on the 139 saves an EV value so that you can change the aperture or shutter speed without changing the exposure.

http://www.mir.SPAM/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/contax/contaxrts2/index.htm
 
Last edited:
ChrisR said:
OMG doesn't that look NICE!!!!!!
Click to expand...

:D
Almost pocketable again.

I think I might re cover it. The 139 has been thrown into my camera bags a bit too often and the original covering hasn't stood up to the battering.
The covering is, of course, notorious for falling to bits. Which is a shame on such a reliable camera.
 
Picked up parcel from the post office depot this morning from e-bay . An MF-21 Nikon’s multi-control back for my N8008(N801) among other tricks it can imprint shutter speed and aperture on the film frame (as required). So tested it with a shot into the bakery window. Just dried and taken a quick scan. So was a 125th at f5.6 it tells me.

20171018_n8008_01bs.jpg

I do wish I could allow myself a vanilla slice, but the nurse says NO!
 
dmb said:
Picked up parcel from the post office depot this morning from e-bay . An MF-21 Nikon’s multi-control back for my N8008(N801) among other tricks it can imprint shutter speed and aperture on the film frame (as required). So tested it with a shot into the bakery window. Just dried and taken a quick scan. So was a 125th at f5.6 it tells me.

View attachment 112754

I do wish I could allow myself a vanilla slice, but the nurse says NO!
Click to expand...

The Fuji GA645 I had would do that too but it put it between the frames on the negative. not sure if I'd want it imprinted across my image!
 
stevelmx5 said:
The Fuji GA645 I had would do that too but it put it between the frames on the negative. not sure if I'd want it imprinted across my image!
Click to expand...
That makes much more sense. Although there's a little bit more room there than on 35mm I guess.
 
stevelmx5 said:
The Fuji GA645 I had would do that too but it put it between the frames on the negative. not sure if I'd want it imprinted across my image!
Click to expand...

Good job I can turn it off then, and I tried the 'Spot Heal Brush' in PS - works a treat so only a problem when I wet print. There was a later version of the back for, I think, the F4 that printed between frames and or on rebate, perhaps one day I'll get the camera and back to check that out (I did buy a lotto ticket).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top