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Near a roundabout or traffic junction - or at a local car club?where can I go to find a good panning spot as I hate static wheels i.e. pan at 1/100 or slower
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Near a roundabout or traffic junction - or at a local car club?where can I go to find a good panning spot as I hate static wheels i.e. pan at 1/100 or slower
Two issues spring to mind. Firstly Olympus cameras (barring maybe the EM1-II) aren't very good at tracking to say the least. The second problem could be technique. Panning is a skill that needs practice. In terms of panning and AF, due to the poor AF-C of Olympus I would be tempted to pre-focus and not use AF, plane of focus doesn't tend to change much if you're panning left to right or right to left. I sometimes even do this with my Nikon.Just a general observation.
On a walk a few days ago I took just the 12-40mm f2.8 (almost all shot so far has been with the 40-150 with & without the x1.4 TC)
I took the opportunity to try C-AF with traffic on the A road from a bridge, now granted even at 40mm they were small in the frame but the AF really did not yield much that was sharply focused i.e.shutter releasing even if not focused?..........................thinks have I carried over a setting I was trying elsewhere??? NB this was 'continuous shooting L' plus some with silent shutter to remove shutter shock.
Edit ~ even more frame filling slower moving cars not that good.................but this may be down to the AF struggling, even though I was focusing on the number plates, because of the shiney/reflective surfaces???
But plants and other static subjects including a local cat are fine taken with S-AF
So, need to re-check my menu settings for Av and Tv modes with C-AF
Two issues spring to mind. Firstly Olympus cameras (barring maybe the EM1-II) aren't very good at tracking to say the least. The second problem could be technique. Panning is a skill that needs practice. In terms of panning and AF, due to the poor AF-C of Olympus I would be tempted to pre-focus and not use AF, plane of focus doesn't tend to change much if you're panning left to right or right to left. I sometimes even do this with my Nikon.
Some parkrun panning shots using the E-M1II:
CAF+Tracking 1/30s shutter speed priority:
20180818_092723_002 by Maarten D'Haese, on Flickr
CAF (No Tracking) 1/25s shutter speed priority:
20180804_092548_097 by Maarten D'Haese, on Flickr
OK so panning technique doesn't seem to be the Achilles heel, so I'm guessing it's AF. Maybe either settings or just that Olympus still aren't quite there yet for subjects coming towards you/The cars on the A road and indeed the smaller road were broadly straight on (thinks A road ~ maybe 10-15degree angle of approach). Panning depending on the situation can be done with Single Shot but CF is beneficial if the angle of approach varies such as on the corner of a race track.
As for panning technique, with my Canon gear I have even managed at 1/40 second with my long gone 40D
here web_0961 by Imagin8, on Flickr
or 1/200 here.....though the target cars wheels are a bit too frozen
web_1394 by Imagin8, on Flickr
With my E-M1 mk2, for sure I need to find the limits & settings to suit the camera and me..............has been a while since I went to a track
Though getting older does affect the muscle tone needed to handle the gear & get the right body motion for panning.................one reason why I have switched to Olympus was to reduce the gear weight
Did I read that right, 1/6s??? Impressive. The best I've ever managed is 1/15 (although that was at 100mm )its all about practice. This was taken with a X100t which is notorious for slow focusing.
1/6s
hellfire racing by damianmkv, on Flickr
I do quite a lot of panning but if i don't for a few months it can take me an hour or two to get my eye in
Thats a beaut, even if it was shot on a NikonOK so panning technique doesn't seem to be the Achilles heel, so I'm guessing it's AF. Maybe either settings or just that Olympus still aren't quite there yet for subjects coming towards you/
Did I read that right, 1/6s??? Impressive. The best I've ever managed is 1/15 (although that was at 100mm )
DSC_9446-Edit-2 by TDG-77, on Flickr
I've been considering the X100 over the past couple of days for some reason, fancy giving one a go
.
I had it and thought it was good optically. AF on these long zooms (this and the Olly 75-300mm) are slow though and they hunt a lot at the long end. Deffo a good buy if you don't need the fastest AF, and £238 sounds a pretty good price to me (I haven't tracked the prices but it seems good compared to what I paid a few years ago used)So, I'm finally getting my replacement EM5 MKII from Camera Jungle tomorrow, just in time for a trip to the lakes next week.
Was thinking of buying a longish zoom, perhaps the Panny 100-300, there's one on Wex for £238. Anyone used this lens, is it any good? How do you manage with any firmware updates for the lens if your on an Olympus body?
Thanks for that.I had it and thought it was good optically. AF on these long zooms (this and the Olly 75-300mm) are slow though and they hunt a lot at the long end. Deffo a good buy if you don't need the fastest AF, and £238 sounds a pretty good price to me (I haven't tracked the prices but it seems good compared to what I paid a few years ago used)
I've just been looking at that one now. It's a stop slower at the full zoom compared to the panny, which might make focusing in low light at full zoom tricky. Did yours focus ok?I have the Oly 75-300 and at the right aperture it's stupidly sharp.
picked it up from here for a bargain £200 too.
That's the one I'd go for.
Just been looking at your images on Flickr and the portrait crop at 300mm certainly looks sharp.Not had a problem with it and under studio lights it's really REALLY sharp.
Not focused in really low light though but it's not really meant for that purpose.
It certainly is.It is, surprisingly so.
It's also good in decent outdoor light too.
Paddleboard 2 by Terence Rees, on Flickr
I had both and compared them side by side, on my copies the Panny was a tad sharper at the long end, and was 1/2 stop faster.I have the Oly 75-300 and at the right aperture it's stupidly sharp.
picked it up from here for a bargain £200 too.
That's the one I'd go for.
Only half a stop difference (f5.6 vs f6.7)I've just been looking at that one now. It's a stop slower at the full zoom compared to the panny, which might make focusing in low light at full zoom tricky. Did yours focus ok?
You mean a thingamabob, sorry don't knowAnyone know if there's a decent doohicky that let's me use my sony/minolta flashes (old mount) on my OMD EM10 -11?
more like a whatsitYou mean a thingamabob, sorry don't know
No, your thinking of a dooferI heard a Kajigger might do it.
Decided on the Panny 45-175mm lens in the end. I liked its compact size and that it was an internal zoom, and it seems as good as any of the 150-200mm MFT cheaper zoom lenses. I felt that 300mm/600m was just a little too long. After saying that I can imagine cursing myself next week in the lakes when I need that bit of extra reach.
Did they replace your last one in the end? What prescription are you? I’m -2.25 and always adjust my viewfinders accordingly. Either I’ve been very lucky with my Olly cameras or you’re very unlucky if you get sunspots.Taking into consideration what happened to my last EM5 MKII and the sunspots, I've decided not to mess with the diopter and wear my glasses instead. Have to say it's not very comfortable. Do olympus have a larger eyecup to take account of spectacle wearers?
What do you mean by sunspots? Did the viewfinder become damaged?Taking into consideration what happened to my last EM5 MKII and the sunspots, I've decided not to mess with the diopter and wear my glasses instead. Have to say it's not very comfortable. Do olympus have a larger eyecup to take account of spectacle wearers?
See this post, and the ones leading up to it. Pretty unlucky if you ask me, but not good that it can happen at all.What do you mean by sunspots? Did the viewfinder become damaged?
I’m long sighted now for both distance and reading, but so far I’m still managing to use the diopter okay. I’be tried contact lenses recently. They work well apart from I do feel my eyes dry out a bit staring through the viewfinder.
Did they replace your last one in the end? What prescription are you? I’m -2.25 and always adjust my viewfinders accordingly. Either I’ve been very lucky with my Olly cameras or you’re very unlucky if you get sunspots.
What do you mean by sunspots? Did the viewfinder become damaged?
See this post, and the ones leading up to it. Pretty unlucky if you ask me, but not good that it can happen at all.
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/t...-2-owners-thread.395080/page-318#post-8237524
For the most part, it was on a tripod, with the sun behind me. I was trying out the new filters I had just bought here on the groynes at Hornsea. I really wasn't doing anything that you wouldn't normally do out and about with your camera. Regarding the diopter, it seems that if it is set to a high + then it can magnify any sun rays that may enter the viewfinder causing burning. I did, for a short time carry the camera over my shoulder still on the tripod. I suppose if it was facing down and the viewfinder pointing up to the sky, then the sun may have damaged it that way.how was the viewfinder facing the sun though Steve , just in normal carriage ?? and what difference does the diopter setting make ?