RedRobin
Dances With Dogs
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.... Absolutely stunning quality Jeff!
Did you Focus Stack this shot? Handheld or tri/monopod?
just normal macro robin hand held with a careful approach... superb bee shots by the way we are all now having to learn new modus-operandi .. probably be snowing before this lockdown ends.... Absolutely stunning quality Jeff!
Did you Focus Stack this shot? Handheld or tri/monopod?
I think it chooses the nearest point. if you only want it to use central then maybe choose one point?Thanks for the likes for my red kite photo.
I'm gradually learning what the EM1 can do, and stage by stage I seem to be getting there. Can someone advise me on something please?
When in C-AF you can choose between single target, 5 target group and 9 target group.
Having chosen one of the latter two the camera seems to choose one of the squares within the group to focus on apparently at random. is it possible to tell it to use only the central one, for example?
I think it chooses the nearest point. if you only want it to use central then maybe choose one point?
edit: it would be nice if it could be weighted. I have a feeling something about this is different on the EM1iii
You can make it focus on the central point when you first press the button, but, as far as I know, it will move after the initial lock.Thanks for the likes for my red kite photo.
I'm gradually learning what the EM1 can do, and stage by stage I seem to be getting there. Can someone advise me on something please?
When in C-AF you can choose between single target, 5 target group and 9 target group.
Having chosen one of the latter two the camera seems to choose one of the squares within the group to focus on apparently at random. is it possible to tell it to use only the central one, for example?
yes its one of its nastier quirks , I rarely use more than one point even when tracking b.i.f in fact the only time multi point is used is against a clear blue sky ... 90% of the time I use the pinpoint one to . the lenses are light enough to keep the bird on target with one point so dont waste your time on multi pointThanks for the likes for my red kite photo.
I'm gradually learning what the EM1 can do, and stage by stage I seem to be getting there. Can someone advise me on something please?
When in C-AF you can choose between single target, 5 target group and 9 target group.
Having chosen one of the latter two the camera seems to choose one of the squares within the group to focus on apparently at random. is it possible to tell it to use only the central one, for example?
yes its one of its nastier quirks , I rarely use more than one point even when tracking b.i.f in fact the only time multi point is used is against a clear blue sky ... 90% of the time I use the pinpoint one to . the lenses are light enough to keep the bird on target with one point so dont waste your time on multi point
I‘ve just had a look at the manual for the iii - hopefully same for ii. You can choose to have centre priority, which is the normal state of affairs.... or you can choose starting centre focus.. however this only works if centre priority is not enabled.menu A1.As I understand it you use 5 point or 9 point so that when you're tracking a moving subject you can stray off the central point to one of the outer points and it keeps focus on the main subject? But if it picks one of the outer points for initial focus that defeats the object, doesn't it? Or have i got it wrong?
nope Malcolm its simply what I have trained myself to do , remember I shot hand held for years with various canon and nikon bodies and lenses of all sorts and sizes from 300mm ,through 400mm to 600mm , my preferred style of shooting has always been walkabout preferably without a tripod (although I do own one ) so shooting with single point with my mk2 and 100-400 which weighs in at 1.4kg is a doddle ,its not a case of Beijing big headed its something anyone can do with practise .and thats the key factor PRACTICE PRACTISE and keep doing it .. take some bread out feed the gulls practise on them it honestly all falls into place .. and to finalise I think there's enough leeway in the olympus focus to do this with ease . and btw just a reminder i'm no spring chicken at 74 and with a dodgy tickerI think your last few words are a hell of a generalisation.
Tracking BIF with a single autofocus point must be just about the most difficult task in photography.
You may be one of the select few who can be successful, but for the average chap a few more autofocus points must be of benefit.
Still practicing with the 75-300mm. There’s quite a bit of skill involved photographing at such long focal distances, one I’ve yet to master
A few from the garden today, don’t have the benefit of a macro lens or anything as exotic as a queen wasp
Fly by Jake Blue, on Flickr
Butterfly by Jake Blue, on Flickr
This guy did stop by though even I didn’t need an app to identify him
Robin 2 by Jake Blue, on Flickr
Singing Robin by Jake Blue, on Flickr
I‘ve just had a look at the manual for the iii - hopefully same for ii. You can choose to have centre priority, which is the normal state of affairs.... or you can choose starting centre focus.. however this only works if centre priority is not enabled.menu A1.
I’ve just tried it on my EM1ii and that seems to sort it so that it always starts with centre point - do not enable centre priority and enable starting centre point.
nope Malcolm its simply what I have trained myself to do , remember I shot hand held for years with various canon and nikon bodies and lenses of all sorts and sizes from 300mm ,through 400mm to 600mm , my preferred style of shooting has always been walkabout preferably without a tripod (although I do own one ) so shooting with single point with my mk2 and 100-400 which weighs in at 1.4kg is a doddle ,its not a case of Beijing big headed its something anyone can do with practise .and thats the key factor PRACTICE PRACTISE and keep doing it .. take some bread out feed the gulls practise on them it honestly all falls into place .. and to finalise I think there's enough leeway in the olympus focus to do this with ease . and btw just a reminder i'm no spring chicken at 74 and with a dodgy ticker
Thanks Robin, I'm always happy to take constructive criticism. I'm trying to improve the way I hold the camera and keep it steady. Even with the brill Oly IBIS, at 300mm theres a lot of movement which makes it difficult to keep the focal point on the subject, especially when it's so small..... Yes but you are doing okay, actually quite well imo - It's a case of practice makes perfect (or as near perfect as any of us can get!).
If I may offer some constructive criticism, a bit sharper focus on the insects could make a big difference but Butterflies are especially tricky for DoF.
Yes it was hand held , cant answer the about the 12-40 as I don’t have oneWas that handheld for the focus stacking?
Though I don't have macro lens, does the technique work when using the 12-40 f2.8 @ min focus distance???
PS forgot to add that this is a cracker
Thanks for the insight and feedbackYes it was hand held , cant answer the about the 12-40 as I don’t have one
Was that handheld for the focus stacking?
Though I don't have macro lens, does the technique work when using the 12-40 f2.8 @ min focus distance???
.... I believe that all the Pro Olympus lenses support Focus Stacking providing that the body does. I haven't tried my 12-40mm F/2.8 Pro yet but as its MFD is very short it should be ideal - I have seen it listed and also the Olympus 300mm F/4 Pro which I intend to test out on a Butterfly and even with my MC-14 mounted. I have been successfully getting shots of perched Butterflies with my 300mm + 1.4x as 840mm (equivalent) is less likely to spook the subject.
Focus Stacking is fundamentally a functional extension of Focus Bracketing and therefore relies on instructions from the body. Even my compact Olympus TG-6 does handheld Focus Stacking,
Yes the camera creates a jpeg, which is pretty good, but also generates the full set of raws so you can stack in software. Here's the jpeg that was generated my my first shot My cars mascot by Pete Banks, on FlickrJust watched a mini tutorial by Olympus (on this page https://www.olympus-imagespace.co.u...VAU&bpid=fa163ef4-1778-1ee8-a49e-db93aca9553e ), a couple of questions:-
How many do you shoot in the set e.g. 15 and what 'differential' do you set?
I surmise that the camera creates a JPEG...........how do you find that generated JPEG for "quality" in regard to its post process'abilty?
TIA
Just watched a mini tutorial by Olympus (on this page https://www.olympus-imagespace.co.u...VAU&bpid=fa163ef4-1778-1ee8-a49e-db93aca9553e ), a couple of questions:-
How many do you shoot in the set e.g. 15 and what 'differential' do you set?
I surmise that the camera creates a JPEG...........how do you find that generated JPEG for "quality" in regard to its post process'abilty?
TIA
I can’t see where focus stacking involves so many steps robin.once you have input your initial settings mines 8 shots 5 diff , it’s simply a case of turning focus bracketing on or off .once turned on it’s all set and ready to go why overcomplicate it . I work on the K.i.S.S principal
Keep it Simple, Stupid.... Usually I would work on the L.t.J.H.R.* principle and I agree that once you have set it all up to your preference it's only a case of turning Focus Bracketing On/Off, but that assumes you don't want to change any of your Stacking settings for a particular subject.
Besides which, it's either:
A) - Turn Mode Dial to your predefined C1/C2/C3 position = 1 action
versus
B) - Menu > Shooting Menu 2 > Bracketing > OK > On/Off > Menu button/OK = 6 actions
Which is quicker? - A) of course, plus you can also include your preferred aperture/shutter/ISO/AF settings for macro work in your C-mode.
Does it matter which selection route is quicker? - For wildlife subjects, yes it most definitely does. For studio/inanimate subjects, no it doesn't.
The bottom line is that the extensive customisations which Olympus cameras offer means that we can each individually choose which modus operandi we prefer.
[*L.t.J.H.R. principle = Listen to Jeff, He's Right] WTF is the the K.i.S.S. principal please?
Keep it Simple, Stupid
extensive customisations which Olympus cameras offer
Thanks for that Robin. I've just requested to join.For those here who are on Facebook and wish to learn more about Olympus Focus Stacking & Bracketing, there is a dedicated group :
https://www.facebook.com/groups/481963741985570/
HTH
Thanks for the added insightsThanks for that Robin. I've just requested to join.
@Box Brownie when I tried it recently I did 15 shots and a differential of 4. My understanding is that a wider aperture might require a smaller differential and possibly more shots depending on how 'deep' your subject is. I don't think there is a definitive answer because it depends on the subject.
I had tried it previously and took way too many shots and lost the will. I was stacking on my computer. I think maybe this was when I had an EM5ii, a long time ago.
Thanks for the added insights
Plus thanks to @RedRobin for the FB linky......................will have to request joining
PS obviously becoming popular
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I'd say that was a mixed blessing, personally..........
One other question anyone using focus bracketing and using hi Res (assuming it can be done)
Thanks for the added insights