Show us yer film shots then!

They definitely need a little contrast in them to make them pop alan!

Glad to see my thread is still going strong. Film for life! Hehe
 
Taken the weekend after bonfire night, Tri-x pushed to 1600 in Rodinal stand developed. Exposures were guessed on the fireworks from 15-30 seconds:

1
3036109444_7f5894084e_o.jpg

2
3036109438_4cb63ee01e_o.jpg

3
3036109452_2e0039b97b_o.jpg

C&C welcome and all that ;)
 
Nice skating shots, cherryrig. I notice you're using a polaroid back on your Bronnie SQA - I need to investigate whether I can use this on my ETRS 6x4.5 as this will come in handy for getting exposures right...
 
Yea you can get Polaroid backs for the ETRS cameras ;) Ffordes have got a load at the moment

I'm not 100% happy with the skateboarding shots but I'm glad they did come out okay :) Massive hot spot on the kickflip one and the flash on the right didn't fire, but still looks good. Timing on the cone one is a bit off though, but it's soo sharp and he pops out so nice, which is why I think they work a bit :):):)

Glad you guys liked them
 
jgredline said:
chilliz,
excellent. Can you share what film and technique you used. I am equally impressed with both..bravo.
Click to expand...

Tough one, they are a few years old. They would have been taken using a Canon EOS 5 with FP4 and push processed, and I printed them on Multigrade paper.

I only used to use FP4 for all ISO ratings and a bit of XP2. I`m sorry I can`t remember much more.

I have only judt recently scanned these into the PC and going back through my mono stuff has made me want to buy a Mamiya 7, which I have also wanted.

Trouble is i`m also loving my EOS 450D and memory cards that take hundreds of images and more. But there is definately something to be said for slowing down and being careful in a darkroom and taking 2 hours to produce a print you are happy with.

I took the images for a college course (mature student) about 8 years ago.

Thanks for the comment and taking time to look!!:)
 
Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament taken today using my Bronica ETRS and 75mm lens. Velvia 50 slide film and developed and scanned myself.

3051379390_b40ce3e7d1.jpg


Larger size
 
I recently uploaded 35mm camera shots to my Flickr account now my scanner works.
Canon AE-1 70-210mm lens, taken 1990



Exacta 35mm with 135mm lens, taken about thirty years ago and developed and printed myself.


A more recent shot with the Canon AE-1 here;
2772019318_1a87ba9209_o.jpg

Taken at Brands Hatch
 
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Looks like you've got that e6 process down to a tee ekimono! I hope my slide film I shot today comes out that good.
 
Thanks Ally and Kev M. It's really a doddle and I'm finding a couple of shortcuts doing the process as well. Also, this was done using developer that was mixed up about 3 weeks ago! Here's another from my excursion around Westminster

3050613385_0660f97379.jpg


Larger size
 
blinkerz - all I've done is taken the standard E6 processing method using the Tetenal E6 kit and simplified it time-wise. I'm still using all the same chemicals. It's £21 for enough chemicals to cover 12 x 35mm films (6 x 120 films) or £45 for their 5-liter kit which will cover 60 x 35mm or about 30 x 120 films.

I use a standard dev tank which can take 2 x 35mm or 1 x 120 film... not very economical - best to use one that can take 2 x 120 or more films as this will spread your chemicals further.

For the standard size tank then, 3 main chemicals which are pre-mixed using warm-ish water into 3 x 1-liter old milk bottles, but for this I'll only mix 500ml per bottle as this is enough to cover the standard size dev tank. Use a permanent marker pen to label what's inside each bottle. I then fill up a bucket of hot water in the bath tub and drop the sealed milk bottles containing the chemicals into there and wait for them to warm up.

While they are warming up I put a large salad bowl in the kitchen basin and leave the tap running into it with warm water and place the sealed dev tank (that contains the film) into it for about 5 minutes. Using a thermometer, check the temp of the 1st dev in the bucket - the chemicals are ready when this is 38 degress celcius, though I usually push this to 39 because the temp will drop a degree between taking the bottles out the water to the kitchen.

Then you start your developing:

6 min in 1st developer with 5 sec agitation every 30 sec (should be 6.5 min with 5 sec agitation every 15 sec...)
2 min water rinse (should be 2.5 min)
6 min in 2nd dev with 5 sec agitation every 30 sec
2 min water rinse
5 min in bleach fix (should be 6 minutes)
5 min water rinse using fast running water and repeated changes of water (should be 10 min)
1 min in stabilizer (just pour about 50ml into the dev tank along with some warm water and agitate)

EDIT: What I also do is mark the milk bottles "NOT USED" and have another 3 x bottles marked "1 x USE". After each stage of the development I pour the used chemicals into the "1 x USE" bottle for using again at a later stage. If I'm using the "1 x USE" bottles for developing, I'll throw away the chemicals after use (ie. the chemicals can be reused, but don't use them more than twice).

Also, make sure your water rinses are with warm water (about 37 degrees), so best to leave the tap running (hot and cold coming out of one tap) and also leave your dev tank in the warm-water salad bowl in-between agitations.

I guess you can adjust the first developer time according to what exposure you want to push/pull - 1 minute more for 1 stop brighter exposure and a minute less for darker exposure.

From here, it's a case of sqeegy-ing off the excess water from the film and hanging up in a dust free area to dry. Once dry you should use cotton gloves to handle the film (but I haven't gotten around to doing this yet!)... cut up the film into strips that will fit your scanner holder (and also your sleeves for later archiving) and scan the film using whichever method you prefer (another subject completely!)

Anyway, hope this helps!
 
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so a Mamiya 6 50mm f/4, isn't that straight, I dunno why I thought it would be......interwebz..tut


10d9q2f.jpg
 
LOL. Showing a definite list to port there Joxers - keep off that cooking Sherry! :D

Colour is fantastic.
 
Yeah, I thought it would be better, its straight in the middle...:LOL:

Tilt/shift, its the only way, or choppery.

It's old faithfull......100F, got a few more to post, but they've all been a bit under:thinking:
 
Yes, it's quite bad isn't it. Certainly correctable, but it's extra faff and you'll lose some detail.

Don't believe the hype kids.
 
Here you go - from my first roll dev'd at home. Ilford FP4+ ISO125 - neg scanned in and resized to 800 wide using Lightroom. Otherwise not adjusted apart from I did clone 2 marks (drying marks I think) from this:

 
ekimeno said:
blinkerz - all I've done is taken the standard E6 processing method using the Tetenal E6 kit and simplified it time-wise. I'm still using all the same chemicals. It's £21 for enough chemicals to cover 12 x 35mm films (6 x 120 films) or £45 for their 5-liter kit which will cover 60 x 35mm or about 30 x 120 films.

I use a standard dev tank which can take 2 x 35mm or 1 x 120 film... not very economical - best to use one that can take 2 x 120 or more films as this will spread your chemicals further.

For the standard size tank then, 3 main chemicals which are pre-mixed using warm-ish water into 3 x 1-liter old milk bottles, but for this I'll only mix 500ml per bottle as this is enough to cover the standard size dev tank. Use a permanent marker pen to label what's inside each bottle. I then fill up a bucket of hot water in the bath tub and drop the sealed milk bottles containing the chemicals into there and wait for them to warm up.

While they are warming up I put a large salad bowl in the kitchen basin and leave the tap running into it with warm water and place the sealed dev tank (that contains the film) into it for about 5 minutes. Using a thermometer, check the temp of the 1st dev in the bucket - the chemicals are ready when this is 38 degress celcius, though I usually push this to 39 because the temp will drop a degree between taking the bottles out the water to the kitchen.

Then you start your developing:

6 min in 1st developer with 5 sec agitation every 30 sec (should be 6.5 min with 5 sec agitation every 15 sec...)
2 min water rinse (should be 2.5 min)
6 min in 2nd dev with 5 sec agitation every 30 sec
2 min water rinse
5 min in bleach fix (should be 6 minutes)
5 min water rinse using fast running water and repeated changes of water (should be 10 min)
1 min in stabilizer (just pour about 50ml into the dev tank along with some warm water and agitate)

EDIT: What I also do is mark the milk bottles "NOT USED" and have another 3 x bottles marked "1 x USE". After each stage of the development I pour the used chemicals into the "1 x USE" bottle for using again at a later stage. If I'm using the "1 x USE" bottles for developing, I'll throw away the chemicals after use (ie. the chemicals can be reused, but don't use them more than twice).

Also, make sure your water rinses are with warm water (about 37 degrees), so best to leave the tap running (hot and cold coming out of one tap) and also leave your dev tank in the warm-water salad bowl in-between agitations.

I guess you can adjust the first developer time according to what exposure you want to push/pull - 1 minute more for 1 stop brighter exposure and a minute less for darker exposure.

From here, it's a case of sqeegy-ing off the excess water from the film and hanging up in a dust free area to dry. Once dry you should use cotton gloves to handle the film (but I haven't gotten around to doing this yet!)... cut up the film into strips that will fit your scanner holder (and also your sleeves for later archiving) and scan the film using whichever method you prefer (another subject completely!)

Anyway, hope this helps!
Click to expand...


Thank you so very much. I really appreciate this and the time you took to write it. I will be trying it out myself very soon..
 
Those are great looking kids jg...(y)

I gotta know what is warm and floury, that begins with "T" and is wrapped around a sausage and a hash brown ?
 
jgredline said:
Thank you. It was std Fuji 200 speed film. I converted it to black and white is CS3. I do not have a grasp of the tones yet, so I simply convert and leave it alone.
Click to expand...

Well as a general guideline, you want no blown highlights, while still being able to see any detail present in the darkest shadow areas. If you can do that and still retain a decent black tone you usually have a nice punchy image. No's 2 and 3 are a tad dark in the shadows, but not much, and I really thought these were shot in b&w so you're not far away. :)
 
Yeh nice shots JG #1 and #3 really stand out for me. I thought they were shot in B&W also!
 
04740007.jpg

Please do let me know what you guys think of this..This is shot with a Nikon N80 on Konica Centuria 100 film.
Thanks! :)
Chaitanya
 
Chaitanya that is very good! Never heard of this film before, but it certainly works well - amazing colours and superb detail (y)

Oh, and welcome to the forums :wave:
 
Hi Chaitanya - great shot. Love the composition, DOF and the tones in the image. Amazing detail in the subjects face...
 
Very good. I like the composition with the subject off to one side and the DOF is just right.
 
some fantastic images in here!!

Must make a mental note to shoot more film :).....actually I must make a note to get my camera(s) out more often full stop. The subject of the following photo is the main reason i've been quite inactive for the last 9 months!!!

One of my most treasured pics...Isaac.

Pentax Spotmatic and Fuji Neopan 400

isaacsmile.jpg
 
joxby said:
so a Mamiya 6 50mm f/4, isn't that straight, I dunno why I thought it would be......interwebz..tut


10d9q2f.jpg
Click to expand...

Jox, I was looking at this image yesterday as was a little perplexed. I would not think that the building would have that kind of lean with a 50mm lens.
I normally see that with my real wide lenses..
Now personally, I think it works very well as it gives the image a daunting look about it. I especially like the way the buildings on the left lean in and blend into those clouds. The colors are superb.
 
Jox, CT and Freester,
Normally I shoot black and white BW400CN and TRI-X 400. I was surprised to find the fuji in there when the roll was done. My son likely changed it. I have 5 film bodies and keep them loaded with different set ups..(I am a film fanatic) There is something about film images that really speak to me..Weird I know. But I really love shooting film...

Here are the three images above in color.
91410007.jpg


91410018.jpg


91410013.jpg
 
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