Show us yer film shots then!

I'm just waiting on getting another film back from the developer (Lomo Lab in London), will post some of those when I have them, next week :(.

In the meantime, here's a couple of recent film shots.


Sunrise Over London on Film by AlistairBeavis, on Flickr


Flowers on film by AlistairBeavis, on Flickr


London W1 by AlistairBeavis, on Flickr

The first 3 were a Pentax Spotmatic F with 55mm f1.8 Takumar lens with Fuji 400 ISO film for the first pic and some random 800 ISO film for the second 2.


Early morning at the wheel by AlistairBeavis, on Flickr

This one was a Canon EOS 100QD with a 50mm f1.8 MkII and Ilford HP5 400 ISO film.
 
Kevin Allan said:
£23 for a pair of gloves ? I just buy something from Poundland, cut the thumb and forefinger off if necessary. A year later, if they are fraying a bit, replace. Repeat cycle for 23 years !
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Well, I've been wearing the same cheap pair of gloves for a while now and they'd been fine for the most part, but I've started getting up earlier to catch the early morning light and they're just not warm enough for that time of day. Moreover, I'm going to be in the Austrian Alps next week and Poland a few weeks later and I'm expecting some very cold temperatures, colder than we normally get in the UK, so I wanted to be prepared.

I also didn't pay £23. I found them a little bit cheaper elsewhere.
 
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I'm rescanning some colour negative film images after changing to using ColorPerfect to invert the scanned images.
Here's an example with Ektar, which seems to be more manageable when ColorPerfect is used.
The version on the left is with ColorPerfect and the version on the right was inverted in the scanning software.

View attachment 30348
Elgol beach scene by Kevin J Allan, on Flickr
 
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If you hadn't seen it (or the comparison) you might think the one on the right was OK, but the one on the left is clearly more natural colours! The only thing I don't like is the huge TIFF files!

(I haven't tried it, but just wondering if it would work nearly as well scanned to JPEG?)
 
ChrisR said:
If you hadn't seen it (or the comparison) you might think the one on the right was OK, but the one on the left is clearly more natural colours! The only thing I don't like is the huge TIFF files!

(I haven't tried it, but just wondering if it would work nearly as well scanned to JPEG?)
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At the risk of starting a full-blow discussion about ColorPerfect, then:

a) You could scan to TIFF, do the inversion and any further editing, then save to JPEG and discard the TIFF.
b) When using Vuescan, I think only the scan to raw option will create a linear scan with no colour adjustments created by the scanning software - and this option outputs a TIFF file.

My hard drive is already nearly full so, with the added demands of the TIFF files, I'm about to order a new one.
 
More manageable ??

The left one may be more true to life from a colour perspective, but it doesn't have the contrast and texture detail of the one on the right.
 
joxby said:
More manageable ??

The left one may be more true to life from a colour perspective, but it doesn't have the contrast and texture detail of the one on the right.
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Yeah, the image on the left looks flatter and lacks some of the texture detail of the image on the right. I think there's a hair too much magenta in the left photo to my eyes as well, but—as I've mentioned elsewhere on the forum—I'm not a colour balancing expert.

I have Colorperfect myself and I personally don't think it's is the panacea for scanning that folks on the internet make it out to be. I just stopped bothering with it.

ChrisR said:
If you hadn't seen it (or the comparison) you might think the one on the right was OK, but the one on the left is clearly more natural colours! The only thing I don't like is the huge TIFF files!

(I haven't tried it, but just wondering if it would work nearly as well scanned to JPEG?)
Click to expand...

I don't think scanning is well suited to JPEGs, as the images straight out of the scanner always seem to require adjustment. If you really need JPEGs, I'd personally go through the whole workflow as a TIFF and then convert to JPEG once you've finished tweaking in Lightroom or Aperture.
 
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medwaygreen said:
Taken with Fuji GSW690II with T-Max 100 as usual OOD :). Very grey and overcast day in Eze south of France when visiting Asha.
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Yes the light was crap ...You fell really unlucky to get overcast down here Richard, nontheless those shots have come out quite well.

The first one does nothing for me tbh but the other two have nice tonal range.

To get the last image without people in the frame requires skill, bribery and lots of praying:D as it is the primary entrance into the very popular village of Eze........

Out of season, overcast days do sometimes pay off! (y)
 
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This is one I shot on my quest for an autumn landscape POTY14 entry. Closest I got to what I wanted, but still not there, and shot far too late to be any use! Vista 400 with the MX, possibly the Vivitar 28mm.

 
Feeling a little less like a fraud hanging out in F&C after the last couple of days of playing around...


FujiReala100_2015-02-13_11.jpg by The Big Yin, on Flickr



Five Roses (Portra 160NC) by The Big Yin, on Flickr

Quite pleasantly surprised with the Portra, Considering it's one of the rolls that went on the Homeless Holga epic trip around the uk, and it'd basically been sat in sorting offices or on peoples coffee-tables waiting for posting on to the next victim for a good year or more, then came home and sat in my camera bag rather than the fridge for the next two...
 
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I decided to try to get some star trails shots while in the Austrian Alps this week. Oddly enough, I think that Fuji Acros 100 might be too fast for this kind of photography—or at least it's faster than I expected anyway—and I probably should have stopped down a bit. I also shot some colour film, but I'll have to wait a week or two to get those back from the lab before I can see how that worked out.

 
skysh4rk said:
I decided to try to get some star trails shots while in the Austrian Alps this week. Oddly enough, I think that Fuji Acros 100 might be too fast for this kind of photography—or at least it's faster than I expected anyway—and I probably should have stopped down a bit. I also shot some colour film, but I'll have to wait a week or two to get those back from the lab before I can see how that worked out.

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That's awesome RJ. How long was the exposure? I did fp4 for an hour and the trails looked okay but the landscape looks too thin. I only shot it in December so I've not got round to scanning yet...
 
steveo_mcg said:
That's awesome RJ. How long was the exposure? I did fp4 for an hour and the trails looked okay but the landscape looks too thin. I only shot it in December so I've not got round to scanning yet...
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Thanks, Steve. I think this one was 2.5 hours at f/2.8.

Looking at these, I rather wish I'd also tried to freeze the stars with a shorter exposure using some Portra pushed two or three stops, but I'll have to try that another time.
 
skysh4rk said:
Thanks, Steve. I think this one was 2.5 hours at f/2.8.

Looking at these, I rather wish I'd also tried to freeze the stars with a shorter exposure using some Portra pushed two or three stops, but I'll have to try that another time.
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Ouch, that's a lot of exposure. With acros I've done a night shot with f5.6 and around 20 mins, that was under a bright moon though.
 
steveo_mcg said:
Ouch, that's a lot of exposure. With acros I've done a night shot with f5.6 and around 20 mins, that was under a bright moon though.
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I don't think there's actually much difference in exposure between our two settings because the stars are moving. In this regard, shutter speed will really only affect the length of the star trail and not brightness. I only wanted to stop down because I think it would reduce a little bit of the ambient light from the nearby town that's just faintly visible.

I checked the lunar times beforehand and shot these before the moon was due to rise. It was so dark I could barely even see the mountains through the waist level finder.
 
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