The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

You're never convincing [I know you're not but in general anyone trying] me that I should run equivalence on every lens I buy or own though, because it doesn't matter. Nobody does it in relation to meduim format, because that would go against the point they usually try to make.

I've never used MF so maybe ignorance is bliss.

It's a long time since I used APS-C and my memory is fading and tbh my Canon's were pretty poor and maybe best forgotten by today standards but I do know that when using MFT now if I use it at f1.8-5.6 I get very similar results to what I get with FF at f2.8-11 which is where I'd be most of the time with FF and I do this no mater what lens I'm using as if nothing else it helps to keep the ISO reasonable and reduces grain. In that sense using the equiv factor helps me because I can get a technically better result and know why.

It was just a thought on the eqiv issue. That's all.
 
I've never used MF so maybe ignorance is bliss.

It's a long time since I used APS-C and my memory is fading and tbh my Canon's were pretty poor and maybe best forgotten by today standards but I do know that when using MFT now if I use it at f1.8-5.6 I get very similar results to what I get with FF at f2.8-11 which is where I'd be most of the time with FF and I do this no mater what lens I'm using as if nothing else it helps to keep the ISO reasonable and reduces grain. In that sense using the equiv factor helps me because I can get a technically better result and know why.

It was just a thought on the eqiv issue. That's all.

The thing is, the equivalence thing has been done to death, not just on here - look on the likes of DPR forums, it's exhausting how often it rears it's ugly head, and it is almost always FF only users who drag it up. It helps nobody. Beginners getting into photography for example, something we all seem to forget, they just get confused when you start firing calculations at them as to what their new kit lens would be in full frame terms. And it's about as helpful to anyone who only ever shoots APSC or M43. All i see it as is trying to lessen the quality of anything non-FF. I see no other useful reason for the discussion. DPR is the place to go if you like that though
 
Just search your posting history it's not hard :p

"history" - I'm sure we all have one. Maybe I've decided enough is enough and moved on? I don't even visit the Sony thread anymore because when I do a row kicks off within minutes no matter what I say - A true troll would lap this up. I can't be bovvered
 
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If I tried to I still could not fault the 16-55mm at all and think it is one cracking lens, but I knew I was going to use it to trade in.


Same here, I was nit-picking with mine, I wished it could focus in closer. But really I wanted an excuse to off it and get the 16 1.4, knew I couldn't own both. Sorry not sorry! :)
 
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The thing is, the equivalence thing has been done to death, not just on here - look on the likes of DPR forums, it's exhausting how often it rears it's ugly head, and it is almost always FF only users who drag it up. It helps nobody. Beginners getting into photography for example, something we all seem to forget, they just get confused when you start firing calculations at them as to what their new kit lens would be in full frame terms. And it's about as helpful to anyone who only ever shoots APSC or M43. All i see it as is trying to lessen the quality of anything non-FF. I see no other useful reason for the discussion. DPR is the place to go if you like that though

I think you're seeing it the wrong way Keith. It's not about belittling APS-C or MFT it's about getting more from them to the point that they're encroaching on or equalling a larger format which should theoretically give better image quality.

Maybe it's an age thing with me but getting used to the idea that I should shoot wide open to f5.6 took some getting used to as in the old days lenses were more often than not pretty poor wide open and only become good at something like f5.6-8 but these days the smaller format lenses especially are often very good from wide open and can be use at f1.4/1.8-5.6 and give results comparable to what FF kit will give you at f2.8-11 or so. Understanding that and getting used to the idea that I don't have to automatically stop my lens down a couple of stops has helped me enormously when using MFT and could no doubt help with APS-C too.

Anyway, I've explained my point and that's the end of my involvement in this and I mean no offence to anyone not using a Sony FF camera :D as IMO the brand should be irrelevant in this particular discussion.
 
Pretty chuffed with this shot, as the Jpeg was pitch black. This is the Raf file done in C1 and have not lost too much detail, X-T3 + XF50mm f2.

Sam sings Jazz by Dave, on Flickr


I've been hugely impressed with the DR on the H1, I've saved some files from what initially seemed like way over blown or under-exposed, you really wouldn't think they could be saved. But I have been wowed, I don't even see how I'd need better DR. It is only the odd time it happens, I do tend to expose correctly at the time or even under expose - as I find pulling back shadows easier. But there will be times I'll over do it, like when using off cam flash for macro. The flash I have is manual only and as soon as the light changes you do get this issue. Perfectly exposed one minute, change location, way overblown at same settings. God bless the excellent DR of the modern camera
 
I think you're seeing it the wrong way Keith. It's not about belittling APS-C or MFT it's about getting more from them to the point that they're encroaching on or equalling a larger format which should theoretically give better image quality.

Maybe it's an age thing with me but getting used to the idea that I should shoot wide open to f5.6 took some getting used to as in the old days lenses were more often than not pretty poor wide open and only become good at something like f5.6-8 but these days the smaller format lenses especially are often very good from wide open and can be use at f1.4/1.8-5.6 and give results comparable to what FF kit will give you at f2.8-11 or so. Understanding that and getting used to the idea that I don't have to automatically stop my lens down a couple of stops has helped me enormously when using MFT and could no doubt help with APS-C too.

Anyway, I've explained my point and that's the end of my involvement in this and I mean no offence to anyone not using a Sony FF camera :D as IMO the brand should be irrelevant in this particular discussion.

I'm not, there's no need for it to be brought up every lens that gets mentioned. Like I say, it helps nobody and confuses some. It's not a very interesting discussion. I've understood equivalence for years, it's nothing new. But ... at least when discussing it I appreciate those who do not make the mistake of equating light gathering properties and understand that a lens specifically designed for one system shouldn't be equated to another. Only lenses that can be used for FF also should be in this debate. The only reason Sony came into it is because in my experience it is generally a Sony user who brings it up. And I'm not just talking on here, look to any other youtube comment section on M43 or APSC gear.
 
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I've been hugely impressed with the DR on the H1, I've saved some files from what initially seemed like way over blown or under-exposed, you really wouldn't think they could be saved. But I have been wowed, I don't even see how I'd need better DR. It is only the odd time it happens, I do tend to expose correctly at the time or even under expose - as I find pulling back shadows easier. But there will be times I'll over do it, like when using off cam flash for macro. The flash I have is manual only and as soon as the light changes you do get this issue. Perfectly exposed one minute, change location, way overblown at same settings. God bless the excellent DR of the modern camera

Here is the Jpeg just to show how dark it was, only cropped.

DSCF0743.JPG
 
Here is the Jpeg just to show how dark it was, only cropped.

View attachment 257604


Nice.


I was looking for a good example of over exposed recovery hat I had on Flickr, but seems I deleted it when pondering on whether to stay with Flickr or not. It was a simple image of a close up of a woodlouse, I was using off cam flash and way over exposed it. Managed to recover it nicely, and that was using the X-T1. The X-H1/T2 are even better, like I say, can't imagine ever needing more DR for this purpose.
 
Nice.


I was looking for a good example of over exposed recovery hat I had on Flickr, but seems I deleted it when pondering on whether to stay with Flickr or not. It was a simple image of a close up of a woodlouse, I was using off cam flash and way over exposed it. Managed to recover it nicely, and that was using the X-T1. The X-H1/T2 are even better, like I say, can't imagine ever needing more DR for this purpose.

The gig I`m going to later on is worse, windows right behind the singer and band and lights turned down then you have a bright light outside shinning through plus the windows in the door but it is fun trying to get it right.
 
The gig I`m going to later on is worse, windows right behind the singer and band and lights turned down then you have a bright light outside shinning through plus the windows in the door but it is fun trying to get it right.

The set up for bands in some places is puzzling, but I guess they have to work with what they got - access to power sockets, room for the band etc .... enjoy anyway, look forward to seeing your results later on. Me, I'll be in the garden shooting creepy crawlies probably once the kids are gone out for the day in a bit :D
 
The gig I`m going to later on is worse, windows right behind the singer and band and lights turned down then you have a bright light outside shinning through plus the windows in the door but it is fun trying to get it right.
Are you able to use a little fill in flash, or is this not allowed / welcomed?
 
Flash is a no-no for most gigs, used to shoot rock gigs myself for a bit, the 3-songs and you're out type. Using flash in a pit like that could get you killed! :D And certainly at a Jazz gig I can appreciate why they don't allow it, flash can upset the whole mood for others, let alone the band.
 
I think we need an argument filter.

I come to this thread as it's one of friendliest and most sane on the forum, no arguments, no politics, and I for one would like to keep it that way........

[peace man....]

Wish we had an Agree button.:agree:
 
Flash is a big No for my jazz gigs, but I don`t mind upping the ISO though which will be about 3200/6400 tonight.
Flash is a no-no for most gigs, used to shoot rock gigs myself for a bit, the 3-songs and you're out type. Using flash in a pit like that could get you killed! :D And certainly at a Jazz gig I can appreciate why they don't allow it, flash can upset the whole mood for others, let alone the band.

I guessed this would be the case, but thought I'd just ask :)
 
I think we need an argument filter.

I come to this thread as it's one of friendliest and most sane on the forum, no arguments, no politics, and I for one would like to keep it that way........

[peace man....]

You're right, it is one of the friendliest threads, this is why it gets to me when people try provoke. Shouldn't take the bait really. Back to the thread so ...


Been looking though my old X-T1 images, in particular the ones I shot using the 35mm 1.4 - I really like this one, our now dearly departed Scrappy on the prowl at night


Street walker by K G, on Flickr


And I still get a kick out of this one :D

NOT the hide and seek champ 2016 by K G, on Flickr
 
Well... There's 14k images on my flickr, linked in my sig.
There must be 1 or 2 that are half decent (law of averages ;) )

I don't doubt it! :) It's something I've never really thought on, left Vs right eyed dominant. I imagine it's the reason some complain about touch screens moving focus points as you can't really keep your nose away from the screen. Whereas for us righties, it's easy, just tilt your head so your nose is away from the lcd and it's never an issue.
 
H1 packaged up, and going back to MPB on Monday. Just bought a T3 from the refurb shop for a little more than I paid for the H1! Now to source a grip
 
Very nice set up. I would love to try the 90mm some time.

It was my set up from the last outing with Fuji. I’ll hire a 50-140 for a wedding I have next month, otherwise that’s the lot. Oh also need a flash if anyone has a recommendation
 
It was my set up from the last outing with Fuji. I’ll hire a 50-140 for a wedding I have next month, otherwise that’s the lot. Oh also need a flash if anyone has a recommendation

I have the Godox 860ii and it is very good, though I use the AD200 more often when I can shoot off camera.
 
I have the Godox 860ii and it is very good, though I use the AD200 more often when I can shoot off camera.

You’re the third person to recommend the 860ii. I’ll investigate that this weekend
 
You're right, it is one of the friendliest threads, this is why it gets to me when people try provoke. Shouldn't take the bait really. Back to the thread so ...


Been looking though my old X-T1 images, in particular the ones I shot using the 35mm 1.4 - I really like this one, our now dearly departed Scrappy on the prowl at night


Street walker by K G, on Flickr


And I still get a kick out of this one :D

NOT the hide and seek champ 2016 by K G, on Flickr

Two very nice Fujigraphs, particularly #1, I liked it the first time around and it still works for me real good.

George.
 
It was my set up from the last outing with Fuji. I’ll hire a 50-140 for a wedding I have next month, otherwise that’s the lot. Oh also need a flash if anyone has a recommendation

Have a look at Godox, they're pretty popular across the board these days and very reasonably priced. They gave some rechargeable Lithium battery flash options too.
 
Two very nice Fujigraphs, particularly #1, I liked it the first time around and it still works for me real good.

George.

Thanks George, yeah I would have posted these a few year back in here. I love to look back at my older images now and then :)
 
Sooooo!

Because of this Damn thread I've now got an X-T3 winging its way in my direction. The X-T1 is going nowhere, although I suspect it might be permanently switched to B&W and live in my work bag with the 27mm affixed.

A couple of things from reading, does anyone know of any aftermarket batteries that are recognised without warnings or errors? I have 4 additional ones for the X-T1, Expro and DotPhoto, and they've been great, but it appears that the XT-3 is a little more sensitive to non OEM stuff.

Also, any links to settings tips would be appreciated. I'm guessing lots of things like power saving, optimal focus area size, etc will be similar to the X-T1. But any model specific resources would be handy as a quick start until I figure things out...

It's either that, or I'll have to read the manual!:ROFLMAO:
 
Sooooo!

Because of this Damn thread I've now got an X-T3 winging its way in my direction. The X-T1 is going nowhere, although I suspect it might be permanently switched to B&W and live in my work bag with the 27mm affixed.

A couple of things from reading, does anyone know of any aftermarket batteries that are recognised without warnings or errors? I have 4 additional ones for the X-T1, Expro and DotPhoto, and they've been great, but it appears that the XT-3 is a little more sensitive to non OEM stuff.

Also, any links to settings tips would be appreciated. I'm guessing lots of things like power saving, optimal focus area size, etc will be similar to the X-T1. But any model specific resources would be handy as a quick start until I figure things out...

It's either that, or I'll have to read the manual!:ROFLMAO:

Much as I loved the X-T1, I think you will love the T3 well above it. You will be able to push files a bit more, you'll have much better AF [I would test the 27mm on it to see the difference] and better ISO performance. I can't help you with settings as I'm a H1 user but there's loads of T3 owners in here who should be able to help
 
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