The Ultimate Car Rig Photography Thread!

Managed to get out over the weekend to try the rig out for a 2nd time:
Awesome! ;) :clap:

I will attempt to shot some in few hours - when I told my friends that I would need some cars other than mine to test my RIG on, MR2 2.0T, RX-8, CRX Turbo volunteered :D.

BTW, I went to OBI (sth like Castorama and other supermarkets with a lot of useful stuff) to compare round fi 20mm booms with square 2cmX2cm ones... At the length of 2 and 3 meters, there was no bouncing in the case of square ones! So, sb who wrote before, that square ones are better, was really right ;).
 
So, my first shots after RIG modification... I know, that it's not as good as these presented in this topic, but I'm still learning :p. ...and need wider lens & longer boom :(.

8534081727_537fc9e99f_z.jpg


8535100244_2c8250ea4d_z.jpg
 
Both have the basics down, viewpoint maybe a little low. Just need a wider lens!
THx for your opinion. I have to work on adjusting the level between boom and suction cups - it's a matter of the angle. My boom is also too short - only 3.2m :(. Will try to replace it with 4-5m square profile boom in couple of days. 10-20mm lenses aren't cheap, for now.

Some more behind the scenes stuff from me
I don't know what I like more - your behind the scenes or final effect photos :D.
 
Last edited:
Mike, how are you ensuring that the roof doesnt move or flex? I mounted to my roof and it flexed so much I havent tried again
Notice, that he's placing cups on the corners of the roof ;). Other advanced RIG-shooters also place cups on the edges of the hood or one on the hood, another on the front wind-screen.
 
Roof bouncing is something I just put up with tbh. I'd imagine the RS roof is pretty good compared to other cars.

10-24mm Tamron is what I use, not massively expensive, and get's a lot of use elsewhere.
 
Its not really the flex of the rig I'm worried about, its more damaging the panel. I've not tried since but I'll give it a go with the wide angle, struggled last time at 17mm because my rig wasn't long enough etc.

Just practice/experience needed know doubt :LOL:
 
Ok, so I've got a possibility to buy aluminum, square profiled (25x25mm, 1.5mm thick) boom $2 for 1m, but it can be cut anyhow I like.
Question - is it better to buy e.g. 5m cut in 3 or 4 pieces? The more connections, the less stable it will be? Am I thinking right? I would like it to be the most mobile, but the most stable at the same time. Or maybe I should buy 30x30mm?

Edit:
So after short consultations with my friend building engineer: 30x30mm will be better, and cutting a 5m boom into 4, even 5 pieces would be better - thicker and square profile equals less interia.
 
Last edited:
Hi there,

Just got my magic arm and superclamps through from a member on here.

A little confused as the magic arm seems to have a different end where the camera goes. I was going to get the manfrotto camera bracket but It doesn't look at if it will fit?

GjxTJTB.jpg


LuQHrGR.jpg
 
Anyone able to help me with this? Trying to work out what I need to mount this, I have 3 superclamps. So I'm assuming I need a bracket to fit the camera to the arm and 2 suction cups to fit the superclamps too. Would anyone have any info of these please?
 
That's what I thought but when I look at other photos the magic arm has the 16mm spindle both ends. And the bracket says its for a 16mm spindle. So really not sure!
 
Only just stumbled on this thread. I'm running a 4m carbon boom from Avenger cups and a mounting solution that's not unlike a magic arm, but stiffer. Rigidity matters because most of my stuff is at night so exposures can last a while...

The Evora was lightpainted whilst the background light trails were provided by the location. 25sec.

My word! by AndWhyNot, on Flickr

Clouds broke open just long enough to let us shoot the Porsche under the light of a near-full moon. There's a little highlight in there from a lightpainting frame but pretty much the whole thing was a single image. 30sec.

Go drive! by AndWhyNot, on Flickr

Next time I'm out I'll do some BTS stuff.
 
For lightpainting, have the car moving slowly, so someone can walk around it whilst moving and paint it, just have to make sure you don't cast a shadow from the rig.
 
the lightpainting ones confuse me some what. so do you do a frame stationary for the lighting on the car, then do a moving frame and the photoshop the wheels and the background?

It's not that simple mate because you end up with the wheels looking different to the rest of the car either through WB or exposure level. Always better to capture lighting and trails in a single frame or as few shots as possible. Not always practical if working solo though.
 
Does not sound easy at all tbh.

Boom!

Fortunately the owners of the Porsche and Evora were eager to lend a hand which makes a world of difference.

When I took the Beetle out for a rig shakedown I was working solo and had to try all sorts to get the right result. In the end this was achieved by mixing static and motion frames but the background floodlights were a neutral colour and so was the car which makes PP a lot easier. Sadly it rained before I had chance to nail it in a single shot.


On its way
 
Awesome exposures Andy, was looking at your Flickr earlier, I tried long exposures with street lights and didnt get as long light trails :( longest I tried was 33 seconds and it came out ok.

Shall try some light painting with the rig.
 
Not posted in this thread for ages but have been keeping an eye on how people progress.

Went out last night and got some rigshots of a friends car. Light painting rigshots certainly gets the grey matter working hard.

Worst of the two. This was two rolling exposures whilst lightpainting and merged in photoshop.

Fiesta st lightpainted rig by Micky Photography, on Flickr

My favorite of the two. This time 3 exposures. The rear was painted with the car stationary.

Lightpainted rig shot by Micky Photography, on Flickr

On both photos i forgot to get an exposure for the lights which is a bit of a school boy error.
 
Great editing Mike. You have got very good attention to detail. The car and sign in the background is something most people would miss.
Only problem i can see is the front bumper has a blue patch just under the headlight?
 
Back
Top